Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on March 27, 2019, 10:27:23 am
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This is the bow from the "New Project" thread. It's 60" TTT measured directly. Working limbs are 2" wide tapering 14" to 1 1/2". Yew billets spliced and deflexed about 8°. Total reflex 3 1/2". Levers are Yew spliced on with 3" "V" joints reinforced with Peruvian Walnut. Wraps on the limbs are due to a small popped splinter on the lower limb, upper is decorative. Tips are Peruvian Walnut. Handle is a leather wrap.
It's 38#@28". Shoots 10ggp@179fps(down 3fps from pre-finishing) and 8gpp@198fps(same as pre-finishing, strange). Big hooks make it a pain to brace but I had very little string alignment issues. Just one tiny heat twist. Sorry my pictures aren't up to Weylins, but you get what you pay for ;D
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FD. I heard a little noise when I drew it to take this picture. Couldn't make it happen again.
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Maybe the CA flexing and cracking on the wraps?
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I used hide glue, but I was wondering the same thing. I'll go shoot it for a while. See if I make a two piece ;D
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:OK Very nice, well done.
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100 arrows, I gave up before it did. I seems to have a bit of negative tiller now. I'll have to back and fix that after a few hundred more shots. It shoots nice though.
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Fantastic bow. Not simple design but my favorite. Looks like 3 lam bow.... beautiful! And.... it is fast :D !!!
Im curious about brace height and width of the handle in point where the arrow is touching the handle, because i have similar bow to tiller. One inch shorter than Yours :).
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If you're really worried about the noise it made you could always send it to me. I'll put a couple thousand arrows through it, maybe shoot a couple of deer, you know, for safety. (-S
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i've always wondered about a recurved molle i wonder how it would word when reflexed?
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All in all she looks fabulous. "FD. I heard a little noise when I drew it to take this picture. Couldn't make it happen again." I have heard that dreaded tick noise a few times, and thought it was just the backing or glue somewhere. This is why I Inspect my bows with a magnifying glass from tip to tip, only takes a minute. Shoot the bow 50-100 times check it re shoot it and recheck it re shoot it and recheck it. After a while you will know every imperfection on that bow if you have any. Sometimes a stress crack will be hidden behind the backing or somewhere like that.
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i've always wondered about a recurved molle i wonder how it would word when reflexed?
You mean like a Finno-Ugrian bow? ;)
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Fantastic bow. Not simple design but my favorite. Looks like 3 lam bow.... beautiful! And.... it is fast :D !!!
Im curious about brace height and width of the handle in point where the arrow is touching the handle, because i have similar bow to tiller. One inch shorter than Yours :).
I never noticed how low the brace height was until I went out to shoot it after I took the pictures. It was about an inch low in the pictures. It's about 6.5" now. The handle is 1 1/8" wide at the arrow pass(could be less) but it's offset to make it more center shot. You can see it in the picture. Arrow pass is upper right. I stole this idea from Marc St Louis
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wait. what do you mean you heard a little noise when drawing?
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Arrow pass is upper right. I stole this idea from Marc St Louis
Thank You, DC! And i will steal this idea from You :D ....
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" You mean like a Finno-Ugrian bow? " ...............never heard of that bow before, so I did some research and came up with this.
http://northernwildernesskills.blogspot.com/2010/10/fenno-ugric-bow.html
I never noticed how low the brace height was until I went out to shoot it after I took the pictures. It was about an inch low in the pictures. It's about 6.5" now. The handle is 1 1/8" wide at the arrow pass(could be less) but it's offset to make it more center shot. You can see it in the picture. Arrow pass is upper right. I stole this idea from Marc St Louis
I prefer the lowest brace height that I can get away with. I re-braced a bow after 300 shots and it broke, I went like 1 1/4" over brace. It broke after 20 sots. I heard a tick then on the next pull the limb simply collapsed.
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Very nice bow DC. That’s is some impressive splicing work.
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congrats, ,thanks for the photos
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wait. what do you mean you heard a little noise when drawing?
Just that. A little crackle. Thought I would mention it because it lifted a splinter when I was tillering. 100 shots since then. Quiet as a mouse.
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Quite impressive workmanship DC.
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Don, I love it! I read through some of the thread about it but couldn't think of anything worthwhile to add. :NN
So glad it turned out as awesome as it did. Very unique. It says a lot about what a forward thinking bowyer you are.
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Don, I love it! I read through some of the thread about it but couldn't think of anything worthwhile to add. :NN
So glad it turned out as awesome as it did. Very unique. It says a lot about what a forward thinking bowyer you are.
Nahh, I just wrote down all the words to describe a bow, eliminated some redundancy and built what was left. I originally had "sinewed" in there but I'll save that for good. ;D ;D ;D
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Well, you can't stop me from admiring the way you think about bow making. So there! :)
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The building-thread was very interesting - thanks for the show!
The bow turned out great - beautiful job! Take care, it's an infectious design ;D
I seems to have a bit of negative tiller now.
... 8)
Cheers
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Finish work tuned out great :OK. The finish really makes yew pop. I forget this was beautiful yew when watching the build.
You know I like this bow, but if you don't....I really like this bow :D
And thanks for taking us along. I learned a few things with following the build thread, as I'm sure many others did too. 8)
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I agree with Ben DC and i think you are a pioneer in the art of wood bows.
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Thanks for all the nice comments guys, but I really think you're over estimating my abilities. Sleek gave me a awful lot of help with this bow.
I'm not done with this one yet. It's 5-10 fps slower than my BooYew and I want to know why. After I shoot it in(or maybe sooner) I want to balance the tiller a bit and then I'm going to start lightening the levers. I still think the key to acceleration lightness, the more of that you can add, the better. I think splicing on the levers was a mistake as that leaves a big lump of stuff right in the middle of the limb. Maybe a finger joint might be better than a "V" joint but no joint would be the best.
Thanks again for all the nice comments :D
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That stick looks great! You make some really nice bows DC - my hats off!
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Very nice DC. That bow really has a nice bend. It doesn't look stressed at all. Beautiful work and some nice numbers.
Bjrogg
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I also like it and it will help me a lot in something similar in ash and in one piece, very flat and wide maybe a bit longer. Thank you for posting pics all the way throug!
Congrats!
B2B
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That stick looks great! You make some really nice bows DC - my hats off!
Thanks Simon-means a lot from you.
Very nice DC. That bow really has a nice bend. It doesn't look stressed at all. Beautiful work and some nice numbers.
Bjrogg
Thanks BJ maybe the bow doesn't look stressed but if you could see my forehead ;)
I also like it and it will help me a lot in something similar in ash and in one piece, very flat and wide maybe a bit longer. Thank you for posting pics all the way throug!
Congrats!
B2B
Thanks B2B -If you're going to try one piece I would make it, at least the first one, substantially longer. Maple and Yew can bend a lot and I deflexed it some which also helps.
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DC,,That bow came out great. I know you said you where not satisfied with it yet because it shoots a little slow than another bow. Since the bow is shooting really well, in my opinion, maybe you should call it good and start another one and copy your design to work out possible kinks. Either way, great job.
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Working on it now ;D ;D
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Beautiful Don. Well done.
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Thanks for all the nice comments guys, but I really think you're over estimating my abilities. Sleek gave me a awful lot of help with this bow.
I'm not done with this one yet. It's 5-10 fps slower than my BooYew and I want to know why. After I shoot it in(or maybe sooner) I want to balance the tiller a bit and then I'm going to start lightening the levers. I still think the key to acceleration lightness, the more of that you can add, the better. I think splicing on the levers was a mistake as that leaves a big lump of stuff right in the middle of the limb. Maybe a finger joint might be better than a "V" joint but no joint would be the best.
Thanks again for all the nice comments :D
Being 5-10 fps slower than ones you already built, im mot certain how much you can say i really "helped" you....
Whats each bow weigh? Not draw weight, physical weight...
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Is physical weight reduction what he is after in the end. ???
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This one weighs 483 grams(17oz) and the bow yew is 458 grams(16.2oz). There's more in the handle on this one so they're pretty close. I think the limb splice, lever to limb "V" is heavier than it could be. Next one I'm using a finger joint out there. Should cut off a few grams. I just found some aircraft grade Sitka Spruce, maybe I'll go with that for the levers.
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Possible the weight is close but in the wrong spots like you say.
Regardless, that is an absolutely beautiful bow, your craftsmanship is supurb. I love what you did with it.
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Sitka Spruce doesn't like to bend. 45min of steam, steel strap and kink.
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I think possibly the performance difference may also be that maple isnt as good a backing as bamboo. You may just be seeing the performance difference in backing capability.