Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: IrishJay on April 04, 2019, 04:53:13 pm
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Since my last post in the "campfire" section was about a project involving a certain forbidden material I figured I better attempt to redeem myself by posting a proper primitive project ASAP.
So I'm working on a 73" piece of black walnut that had about 90° of prop twist from tip to tip. I'm removing it using wood clamp as a handle to twist it while clamping it into a table vise, then applying dry heat until the wood is to hot to touch.
Is this more or less the right way to approach this, or is there a better method?
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/bow%20pics%202/20190404_185320_zps77vxqcx2.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/bow%20pics%202/20190404_185320_zps77vxqcx2.jpg.html)
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/bow%20pics%202/20190404_191846_zpstw3mztlp.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/bow%20pics%202/20190404_191846_zpstw3mztlp.jpg.html)
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That's about right. It's a good idea to try and get any sideways bends and reflex/deflex at the same time. It can be a logistics nightmare but if you have to go back later the twist will come back. Pins in the Workmates holes and wedges to convince the wood to go where you want it are a good idea. Do one end at a time to give yourself a break and to fit it into the Workmate.
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I've got one limb looking pretty good, I'll tackle the other tomorrow.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/bow%20pics%202/Screenshot_20190405-001013_Gallery_zpsnmom837a_edit_1554437525311_zpsyueobydx.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/bow%20pics%202/Screenshot_20190405-001013_Gallery_zpsnmom837a_edit_1554437525311_zpsyueobydx.jpg.html)
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If it still wants to be a bit uncooperative with just dry heat, walnut responds well to steam. And it also a good wood to heat treat. So if it doesn’t quite go where you need t to be. Steam it in place then lock it down with a good heat treat.
But it does look like that limb did come along well.
Kyle
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Here is how I deal with prop twists that are excessive.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/fixtwist.html
Jawge
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Kyle, I'll definitely be steaming at some point, makes the cambium peel right off and stains the wood underneath a nice golden brown. Heat treating I usually do after tillering, but on this bow I may do it before, during and after tillering ti see if it reduces set.
Here's a pic of the first limb, fairly straight with some nice reflex/deflex.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/bow%20pics%202/20190405_113024_zpszwqt5vat.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/bow%20pics%202/20190405_113024_zpszwqt5vat.jpg.html)
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Jawge, that is genius. On the first limb I was hooking a a pry bar against the workmate table and using it the push against the handle of my clamp. It worked but it was clumsy, your method definitely looks better, I'll do the other limb your way.
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Using the method shared by Jawge to remove the twist. This is by far the best method I've tried, elegant in its simplicity. Little nuggets of wisdom like this are why I love this site.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h66/jayres83/bow%20pics%202/20190407_135856_zpsmeqh4vip.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jayres83/media/bow%20pics%202/20190407_135856_zpsmeqh4vip.jpg.html)
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I suppose that you have to move the wrench from the fades to the tips step by step.
How much length of twist did you remove each time? 4", 6", ....?
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4" to 6" at a time. It was 90° out end to end when I started so is come a long way.