Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: shamus on April 12, 2008, 10:24:45 pm
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Looking at my woodworking catalogs, I see lots of different hatchets and axes. I was wondering: which one is the most ideal for bowyer's work?
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Estwing works pretty well. Pricey though.
But it seems that just a plain old ax head, a couple pounds, held in hand works better. Removes the wood with ease, but slowly none the less.
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yeah any hatchet will work. find em at flea markets or yard sales. for cheap. need atleast a decent edge to get somewhere.
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Bearded hachets work better than regular ones.....................bob
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o.k.
so maybe im ignorant.
whats a bearded hachet?
tim
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No.............yer not ignorant heres one. You can get hand up close fer controlled strokes wsithout "fearin' " fer your fingers...........bob
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I use a vintage broadaxe but I like that bearded one.
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I've also heard of guys using the one-side beveled hatchets/axes or whatever you call 'em with good results.
Sean
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so if one was to choose a hatchet,and nothing more,to make a bow with.
what would be a better choice, the bearded one or just a regular old camp style hatchet?
Ive been thinking of getting one to try and make a bow for the hatchet bow contest, and what should one expect to pay and where to get a decent one at.
keep in mind I'm just a poor working mechanic.
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by the looks of a bearded one i say that one. cause you can get your hand to work the blade a bit like a knife. a regular one will hit sometimes on the flat side and not cut at all. so id say bearded, the others might say different though.
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I've used a regular old hatchet to chop out several, but I've got an old beveled broadhatchet that I like better as it doesn't tend to dig in as much. I've never tried a bearded hatchet, but that one looks pretty slick-bet it would work great.
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Tim...........The hatchet ya see I made bearded. It was an ole roofin' hachet. Look at hachet ya can see how ta do it. Now the steel thats another story, better will keep a sharp edge longer but this one works fine had fer a lotta years, just need ta sharpn more often. Betcha ya can get a hachet at the H.D. fer less than $20 and modify it ta a bearded ifn yer a "mechanicccc !" ;) ;D.......bob
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I like the carving axe. I find the semi-bearded head allows you to get your hand close behind it, and the curved profile alows you to take out shaving instead of digging in.
Here is a picture of the granfors carving axe and the carpenters axe side by side.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a277/MarkinEngland/Ash%20axe%20bow/gransfors2.jpg)
I find the curved edge much easier personally than the straight edge. Maybe the straight edge of the carpenters axe would be better for straight lines in straight wood, but for carving through grain and not lifting splinters I think a thin finely bevelled curved edge gets my vote.
Most cheaper axes would need a fair amount of file work to get the bevel of the blade finer. The steel will be quite good, just the edge shape would need alteration.
Here is a bow I made with my carving axe. using it I could understand some of the old bows types found. When chopping out a bow and tillering it with a tool like an axe some limb shapes and profiles just come naturally.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a277/MarkinEngland/Ash%20axe%20bow/DSCF0002.jpg)
Mark in England
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Those are some fine pieces Mark. I have really become a fan of my beveled hewing or broan hatchet, but I only use it for reducing staves, not detailing. I just bought a nice old little Collins hatchet head with a nice thin bit - mainly because I have a cool osage piece to use for the handle. How's that? Matching the head to the handle? Very snedekerlike.
Dave
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I use a bevelled hatched with a shock-absorbing handle. Purchased it from the hardware store.....took it home and bevelled the edge with a grinder.
I had a very pricey bearded hatchet but it felt clumsy...and the wood handle never felt comfortable. I had to "force" it to make accurate cuts. Maybe it was too light? The cheap hatchet works just as well (or better).
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i took an ol cheap camp axe and put a single bevel edge on it, like a drawknife..it works great.
i dont use the axe much for reducing or shaping, just cuttin it down! and now for weight purposes i just use a modified machete.
nice collection of steel by the way!
mbg
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The true carving axe is a bearded axe. Justin
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The bearded axe I have is a replica of a Viking axe recovered from Hedeby.
But I dont really like using an axe...to painful after just a bit of working with it. I type for a living as a writer, so I don't want to cause any real damage to my hands.
Maybe it is unorthodox, but I have been using a 1" mortising chisel and wooden mallet to remove a lot of wood, expecially at the fades. It works great.
Dane
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I have only chopped out a couple of bows with a hatchet,red oak and black locust.I used a little gerber camp hatchet and enjoyed it immensely.The little gerber takes and keeps a keen edge. Frank
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I have two beveled hatchets, one left and one right. I also use a big, old, meat cleaver. It seems to have more control.
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Looking at my woodworking catalogs, I see lots of different hatchets and axes. I was wondering: which one is the most ideal for bowyer's work?
I have a one sided hewing hatchet that I will GIVE you if you would like to pay for the postage.
Cracker
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A hewing hatchet is best. Beveled at one side and hard to make too many mistakes with em. Also guys, I have started using a Froe with good results for roughing out osage. Take a little off at a time, but does it in no time.