Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: IrishJay on February 01, 2020, 04:12:12 pm
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This is bow was my Christmas gift to my dad (thats him drawing it).
Its an elm gullwing w/ working handle, 57" ntn, 42#@28", 4" brace height. Tips held about 1/2" net reflex.
Tips are whitetail antler from one of dads bucks, handle wrap is leather cordage tied with a whipping knot. The short backing around the handle area is rawhide which I used to create a good background to ink my 2 year olds finger prints onto. I used steel-wool/vinegar to age the wood and finished with satin poly.
(https://i.imgur.com/gx1iaf6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TiEtTnG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qvNWq9b.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tPS53ro.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wAN7ASv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WGlq5eU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pmhJQBL.jpg)
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That tiller looks dangerous. A testament to the tenacity of Elm.
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Any reason you shortened the bottom limb so much? The first foot of the upper lime is almost completely stiff. That handle isn't working.
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The top of the handle wrap is center stave. I know the bottom limb looks short but I've measured it many times. The handle does move, if you compare the brace pic to the draw. And yes the top limb is a bit stiff, but I think the slight cant that hes holding the bow out is exaggerating it in that pic.
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It shouldn't be center stave on a bow that long. It's not the angle that's showing the tiller like that. The bottom limb is bending like a Korean bow and the top like whip ended longbow.
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Where should the center of stave be compared to the handle?
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I put mine right in the middle of the handle. Others put the centre of the bow about one inch down from the top of the handle.
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Well, despite its short comings it draws smooth and shoots fast so dads happy with it.
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Smack dab in the middle for me also. My arrow pass is above center so I just tiller it to work that way. Either the arrow pass is center and the pivot point is low or the pivot point is center and the arrow pass is above center. Both ways will work. Go build another one. At some point you will look back at this one and realize how far you have come. You made a bow and most can’t say that. Tiller is off but it’s held together, so congrats on the bow.
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I generally try to split the difference, most of my bows put the web of the shooters hand about an inch below center stave and the arrow pass about an inch above.
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Ok,..this is just my take,..on a bendy handle,..I make the bow even,..you can shoot either limb up,..I put the handle in the middle,..I hold the bow so it is balanced in my hand...that usually puts the arrow above center...
I can see u like this design,..next time reflex the handle,..no need to deflex,,,as the bow takes set it will gull wing,...
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..next time reflex the handle,..no need to deflex
Brad I'm doing exactly that on the bow I'm currently building, except I added about a 30° flip to the tips, hoping to end up with a 5 curve after set.
Its the one I posted the pic of in DCs heat treating thread.
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Ill check it out....I think I saw it
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Well, despite its short comings it draws smooth and shoots fast so dads happy with it.
That's what matters in the end. But what I worry about is the cut out arrow rest in a bendy handle. I am curious to see if that will hold up.