Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on March 16, 2020, 12:08:12 pm
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Just looking at Eric's post and rather than clutter his up I'll start new. I noticed that his arrow pass was in the handle. Looks like about an inch from the fade. I usually have the arrow pass in the about the beginning/middle of the fade. Where does everyone else put theirs?
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I go for right at the top of the handle as the fade starts. Hopefully this picture showes it decent. The bottom of the arrow is essentially level with the seam of the handle wrap and glued on leather.
Kyle
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Kyle, how long is your handle wrap? It looks like you split the difference between Eric and I.
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Its 4 give or take 1/4. I typically do 4 handle then my fades. I cut my wraps to just cover where my hand will sit. which comes out to the 4 mark.
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1.25 in. above center. Jawge
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Jawge, is your handle on centre or 3" and 1".
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DC, 2 in on either side of center. Then I measure up 1.25 in above center but that value is not set in stone it can vary depending on tiller requirements. Jawge
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Every one of mine is right where the top fade starts and my fades are 3" long 98.37% of the time. 98.96% of my bows are symmetrical and 100% of my grips are 4.375" long.
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Are you sure????? ;D ;D ;D I mean really sure??
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Handles are a bigger deal on a stiff handled bow than what given credit for.....My handle is 4.5" with 1.75" fades and arrow pass is around 1.5" above center of handle most times.....or which it puts the arrow pass 1/2" below top of grip to make a 4" grip in the end.Mostly symmetrical bows with 8" overall handles with fades.
Pressure of bow hand is dead center of handle while drawing.
Forgot to mention mostly all bulbous handles.
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I make my bottom limb 1" shorter than my top. On the bow in my tutorial I messed up my measurements and had everything even, I had an unfinished handle section about 5" long so I moved the rest down about an inch and put it at the start of my fade.
I make a bulbous handle on my bows and always put my rest at the point the handle turns into a fade.
This shows it better;
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On the bow in my tutorial I messed up my measurements and had everything even,
And I had to pick on your only mistake, sorry ;D ;D
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I like to keep my off shelf side more straight. This way you move your shelf more center cut. Just gives you more flexibility with different arrow spines. Arvin does his same. Try to keep the sight window bow thickness at 1.0" for bow 50lb and over. Less you can cut to .750" with Hedge.
I like that one Eric. Gil is shooting my latest one and really liking it.
Looks fine.
HH~
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Are you sure????? ;D ;D ;D I mean really sure??
Don, that was all for you my friend. I know you enjoy numbers. In all seriousness, round them up to the next whole number and its about right.
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My handles vary from 9-11 fade to fade. Like Jawge 1 1/4 above center. Selfbows settle in how ever you do it I think. That works so I dont change it. Arvin
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I make my bows symmetrical, grab the bow so that it's centered in my hand and place the shelf so that the arrow ride at the same level as my knuckle, almost like shooting off my knuckle
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It looks like we all do it close to the same. Eric's was just different and caught my attention but he explained that.
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1.25 in. above center. Jawge
+2
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What George, and Arvin said.