Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: gumboman on May 07, 2020, 06:00:26 am
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Has anyone tried gluing snake skins using two part bow expoxy such as Smooth On? I know hide glue or one of the Titebond glues is normally used, but the Smooth On is such a strong glue with a long pot life that it seems to me it would work well. I'm just wondering if there are pitfalls to using it on snake skins that I don't see at the present time. I'm going to back an osage bow.
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I've never used Smooth On for anything so I can't answer to that. You don't need a strong glue for snake skin backing. I now use hide glue but have used TB, TBII, TBIII and simple white glue, all with good results.
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I would guess the cost would be a pitfall. I've never bought smooth on but I would guess it would be more expensive than TB glue.
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titebond II is all you need .. its waterproof.. smooth on would be a waste imo... the beauty of titebond is it is easy to squeegee out air bubbles and clean up with water. it will bond skin just fine... gut
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You need something thin for snakes skins, smooth on is way to thick and would be impossible to squeeze out the excess from under the skin.
I recommend TB3 or Elmer's Stainable wood glue, both are a neutral color and won't show through your skin. I use a glue brush dipped in water to thin the glue as I put it on.
I have skinned about 50 bows and started out with TB1, the problem with that glue is it is yellow and will show through your skin.
I used TB1 on my late wife's bow years ago, the yellow really shows through.
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You want glue thin enough to do this; work the excess glue out from under the skin with your thumb.
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Epoxy and hide are not a good match. Jay Massey spoke of gluing rawhide onto his early bows and it would fall apart in no time.
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I tried using smooth-on to apply birch bark once.It worked but not as smooth and conforming as using a tite bond glue or hide glue.Plus it can be more messy to deal with also.A wet snake skin will conform better to the bows' backs' irregularities.Using smooth-on the snake skin would need to be dry.
I used to put a thin super glue bead on the edges of snake skins on bow limbs too.It works good for wear and tear that might occur,but still not necessary.
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TB3
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Thanks to all who gave input. Just what I was looking for. I knew I could get some good advice here. I will go with TB3.
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you will be very pleased ... size bow and skin... put a thin film on bow and skin..of course wet skin before applying .. get all bubbles out and set overnight.. I take a fine rasp and rasp edges for clean edges...better than a razor blade IMO... I after a day or so then get masking tape and lay over skin to remove scales.. they will just come off on tape.. personally I use a spar varethane satin finish on my bows and skins... but many options available.. good luck..gut
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Should I wrap it, or no? I saw a video where cloth strips were used to wrap the bow and skin to dry. Others say no need to wrap. What are your recommendations?
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I have never wrapped mine.. if you do have a edge come up you can super glue it... not saying it won't happen but if you get the glue on both bow and skin you shouldn't have that issue at all.. it is really a simple procedure to apply skins.... gut
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I usually wrap skins with strips of old bed sheets for about 1 hour then remove it. If there are air bubbles or glue pockets you can still squeeze them out the sides. If you are not able to you can make a small slit in the skin at the bubble or glue pocket with a razor, lengthwise to the limb, squeeze out the glue or air and press the slit to reseal it.
If you wrap it be sure the wrap leaves the skin centered and doesn't slide the skin to the side.
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Eric is that blue painters tape I see on the belly and sides in your photo?
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I don't wrap them, as soon as I put the skin on the bow I start adjusting it to center the pattern while I roll my thumbs to the outside of the limbs to get out the excess glue and air bubbles. I keep going up and down the limb until no more glue comes out and I am satisfied with the skin orientation. This takes me at least 15 minutes per limb and sometimes more, by this time the glue is starting to set and the skin isn't going anywhere.
I tape off the bow, it saves me a lot of time trying to get the smeared glue off the rest of the bow when I am finished and the skins are dry.
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2x