Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: NewBowyer on June 12, 2020, 01:30:19 pm
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I have this maple stave (68” ttt) roughed down to where the limbs are just starting to bend floor tillering. I’m wondering if I should try to tiller it as is, use heat to reflex the straight limb to match the reflexed limb, or heat-straighten the reflexed limb? I can tell already that the reflexed limb is stiffer than the straight one. My preference would be to leave it as is, but ONLY IF that’s reasonably possible for a novice tillerer.
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I would leave it as it is until first brace to see how the string tracks. Then I'd put it on a form with heat and even it out for further tillering.
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Even it out by reflexing the straight limb, or by straightening the reflexed limb? Appreciate the quick reply. Or am I totally misunderstanding (which is highly possible).
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I ussually do all my heat corrections around where you are so i don't have to worry about one spot being tempered more than the other and im not great at tillering different limbs. I would reflex the other limb....im pretty much a nooby so probly listen to pat though.
-Fox
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My biggest question is at what point in the draw cycle the reflexed limb’s tip should ”catch up“ to the other one. With the bow lying horizontally on the tiller tree, the reflexed limb’s tip will obviously be higher, so if both move downward at the same rate while it’s being drawn, the higher one will never achieve symmetry with the other one. I hope that makes sense. I’m not sure how to approach this short of just severely weakening the reflexed limb. Maybe it doesn’t really need to catch up until full draw?
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If your limbs aren’t symmetrical at rest, to maintain the same strength, the should not be symmetrical at full draw. The easiest way to tiller the bow, would be make both limbs match now. It really doesn’t matter so much which one to change, more personal preference.
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That makes sense- I’ll get them bending a little more & then add some reflex to the straight one before tillering further. I don’t even know which kind of maple it is but I’m learning from every stave I work.
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As mentioned if the limbs are uneven unstrung they should be uneven at brace through to full draw too.
It can get tricky tillering unmatched limb profiles. I would probably straighten the reflexed limb. That correction will definitely hold whereas inducing reflex (if not done just so) can lead to it pulling out halfway through tillering and you are back at square one :)
A straight stave will be a lot easier to tiller as well if you are new to bow making. Reflex isn't everything, low set is a better goal than trying to chase reflexed bows.
Good luck.