Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: catfishon on April 26, 2008, 11:03:01 pm
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i raised small splinters on both ends but have the ends pretty thick . should i scrape out the splinters ? or super glue them down ? and no, i don't know what im doing....lol
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2895.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2898.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2902.jpg)
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I would lay the super glue to it. You could scrape the splintered area, after the super glue has dried to see how deep the splinters go but leave as much meat around the hooks, sides, back and belly for later adjustment and string alignment. If necessary you could add more wood to support the curves.
What are the dimensions of the bow and what draw length and weight are you shooting for? Looking forward to seeing your progress. Pat
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You could always make Brush Nocks for it....and cover this all up....it's a Thought....and they look really cool too!!!
[attachment deleted by admin]
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brush nocks is what im wanting to make, this bow is a teacher bow (teach me what not to do)
i really started 2 bows today...lol just incase one didn't make it ::) maybe i'll go ahead and try to make the brush nocks with this one ? should i still super glue and scrape 1st ?
heres a pic of the other one i started today also
both bows are 64" tip to tip and i'll take any # between 50 & 60
the one with static ends was a thin stave and will need a handle glued on it or maybe built up with leather
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2906.jpg)
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Yes! super glue! You will have to flatten the area you want to add the brush nocks so you want it solid to work with. Pat
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What Pat Says
;D
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Looks like you have plenty of arrow material in that first pic. What is it, Privet? Pat
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Looks like you used dry heat to bend those curves, not a good idea. Use wet heat for sharp bends
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pat the bush is hazel nut or something like that? it gets small nuts on it that are wraped in leaves. the shoots are nice and straight but but real soft in the centers ,dont think it would make an arrow? but maybe i'll cut some and see :)
mark, i did use dry heat. had alot of guys say thats all they ever use? i had to straiten the bow right in the handle area and was thinking steam might have been easier also ?
do you have to wait long for the stave to dry back out if you steam ?
thanks for the help guys........................john f
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If you are gonna use steam on dry wood, seal the area to be steamed first with shellac. The steam won't effect the shellac and the shellac will prevent moisture from entering the wood.
On the recurves I've made I used dry heat but oiled the wood first. I clamp the tip in the form, coat liberally with oil and heat the area until until the weight of the stave begins to pull the stave down. Then I know it is hot enough. I still get some splintering but usually have enough wood in the area to be bent to remove the splintered area. Pat
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Could someone explain dry heat vs wet heat? a static bow has always been intresting.
peace
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Wet heat is either done by boiling or steaming. The moisture lubricates the wood and keeps the wood from scorching. Dry heat is done with direct heat from a source like a heat gun, stove burner or open flame. I prefer dry heat but(less complicated and less time consuming for me) oil the wood first to prevent scorching and to help concentrate and hold the heat while bending, straightening and untwisting wood.
A general rule of thumb is wet heat for wet wood, dry heat for dry wood. With steaming or boiling you are adding moisture to the already dried wood and this can cause drying checks(cracks) as the wood re-dries. Shellac can be used as a moisture barrier on wet or dry wood when steaming or boiling. Pat
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hi evldwrf here,
it looks like the wood thats pulled is in a nonbending section. so as you continue to shape the bow that growth ring will recede toward the handle eliminating the pulled section. i have many times used 80 grit sandpapper to do this type of work.
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Pat B. So you are saying that if one chose to shape a "green" wood boiling would be the way to go? Dry wood heat gun&oil would work better? Correct?
Thanks!
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I prefer steam to boiling but yes. Actually when steaming green wood you are also forcing some of the moisture out of the green wood. Green wood bends better than wood that has already been cured, too. Dean Torges talks about this in his book, "Hunting The Osage Bow" which is an excellent reference to selecting, cutting, seasoning, steaming and tillering bows, specifically osage...but it works with other woods also. The Trad Bowyers Bible II has a chapter on "Bending Wood" that is also helpful. Pat
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i have it bending pretty good on a long string . i was also able to get all the raised wood out with a file and sandpaper.
i think it needs to bend more near the handle ? what do you think ?
the bow is still heavy and i want to make sure it dont turn out light, so help me out....lol
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2908.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2910.jpg)
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That's looking good-should turn out to be a screamer.
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I'd glue a handle riser on now if your going to because it looks like its bending through the handle right now. Then you'll have to adjust to get a little more bend out of the fades. ;D I use dry heat most of the time, unless I'm making a short radical bend, but I get the wood as thin as possable before bending it. It also helps to keep it one growth ring on the belly in the area you bending.. ;D
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would it be best to glue layers of leather to biuld up the handle or should i just glue wood to it ?
the reason i ask is i can feel it bending in the handle, and im wondering if a piece of wood glued on would pop off. where as leather could bend with the bow? sorry to ask so many questions but this bow making is alot more work (fun work) then making knives...lol
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I would go with the Heavy Leather Build Up....but then I like D Bows too....like the Bendy Handles!!!
J.M.O.
8)
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I've used leather for risers on bendy handle bows with good results. Also you can add a few layers of thinner lams of graduating lengths to make a built up handle riser. These seem to bend a bit more than a solid riser. Also, add an extra lam to the belly but also the back. You can get the thickness you want with little stresses on the riser. I usually add a leather "filler" to the back anyway for comfort with the bulbous handles I like. Pat
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thanks all !
maybe work on it some more tonite after work ;D
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wow, that really looks like a good start!!!
wish you goodluck with it!
frank
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well its not looking so good now ?
i have about 50# at 23 or 24" but it has taken set and tiller is all messed up now :'(
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2912.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/DSCN2913.jpg)
i didnt put handle on yet becouse i decided to go with the leather build up,maybe dont even need one now
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Something about recurves, they can be a pain to tiller. Too much stress on the working limbs, me thinks.
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That may not be what you were looking for - send it to me, I'll finish it ;D. I sure wouldn't give up on her, a little tweeking and a handle and it'll still be a darn nice bow IMO...
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Good point Paul, Heck a lot of guy's have problems keeping a string on these babies, you've done great, stay after it.
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Well the Tiler isnt too screwed up.....take a look......
[attachment deleted by admin]
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The bow isn't on that tiller stick the same as the above picture, that's makes the tiller look a whole lot different.
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well this about the best i can get it . it only pulls 43# @ 27 now :( was giving this one away anyhow but was still hoping for 50# +. i still have to add a handle so that will give me about another inch of draw and maybe a couple more #'s ?
i'm alittle disapointed but i still have the other one to work with...lol
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/new%20bow/DSCN2916.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/new%20bow/DSCN2917.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/new%20bow/DSCN2923.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s73/catfishon/bows/new%20bow/DSCN2918.jpg)
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Well catfish, from my novice perspective - that tiller doesn't look too bad! Looks like your gripping your string too low and causing the bow to bend a little off :-\? Destructo will do the circle thing and we'll see ;D. But look at them static tips - something I've yet to attempt but will soon with steam. Them are nice!!
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i used a heat gun but should have greased bow 1st , you can see the dark spots where i heated it.
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The Scorch Marks will just give er Character!!!! As for the Tiller.....well when I was learning to be a Crane Operator....the Ole Man told me that there were two kinda Levers....LeverA's ....and Lever B's.....this is a Lever B!!!!!!!! Shoot it and enjoy the Fact that you made a Nice Bow from the Wood.....and learn from it....and Move on to the Next one.....I like it....but then I am partial to Stiff Tips!!!!!