Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: sagitarius boemoru on April 29, 2008, 04:03:35 pm
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Just for those who make them. Notice the edge being thin, withouth dings and square to axis of the intended bowtip. Just regular cow.
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/nockspaja1.jpg)
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/nockspaja2.jpg)
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/nockspaja3.jpg)
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/nockspaja4.jpg)
As you can see, I cut the grooves when I put the nock on the stave, not before, to have good idea of necessary angles, but I make good surfaces and polish before I do, because the grove can be made withouth damaging the rest and by grinding and polishing the horn when its glued on the bow, the bow gets damaged, the polish gets smeared into wood grain etc. and its ugly.
This is for 125# yew bow I m making. I have another pair with more interesting texture, and collor, I post pics in a while.
Jaro
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Some nice looking nocks there Jaro, you definately do good work mate, hope to see you soon.
Steve
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Very nice nocks. What do you use to cut the internal tapers? Could you post a pic, or better yet, could you do a nock build-along?
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Oh Steve, long time no see. How are the things going in the england ?
I just bought a house in the country, since I was sacked from my workshop, so I thought it was time to move.
So I m all bussy. Theres work to do. I also have new job.
Jaro
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I use flat carpenter bit 16 mm. That is longer and bogger diameter that I need and It allows me to drill most diamateres both for sporting bows and warbows and still have good cone
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/drilledhorn.jpg)
This shows the tip of the bow worked down to fit in the horn. You can see there is no gap around. But this is only try out without glue, the horn is ground and polished nailed hard on plywood fake bowtip, which can be destroyed and doesnt matters.
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/hornfit.jpg)
Now some grinding and buffing and fitting
(http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/bottomnock.jpg)
I would definitelly be better without that concave area next to nock, but this was one of bows I used to learn how to do it and I use slightly different fitting technique than back then.
Jaro
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Very nice Jaro, very nice indeed!
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Oh Steve, long time no see. How are the things going in the england ?
I just bought a house in the country, since I was sacked from my workshop, so I thought it was time to move.
So I m all bussy. Theres work to do. I also have new job.
Jaro
Hi Jaro, Things are real busy here as well mate, loads of bows to make, tests to do etc, i off to Italy next week with Mark Stretton and a few others to pick up some more yew, it sounds like you have also been busy, good luck with your new house etc, when are you next in England?
Steve
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I think I wont be able to make it this year, but I try hard next year to go there.
Jaro
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These horn nocks you make Jaro are AMAZING my friend!! 8)...
You surelly do an impressive work on your bows, whatever the style is...
Ah, all the best at your new home!!..;)...and donīt get too busy with that, ya know, it is not very good to work too much!!..;)...
Cheers fellow...
Asier.
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Whatīs the bow these cool and creamy nocks you shalll put on??
Asier.
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Hahaha, its one I have in making. But as I laid it out it still more like 140# and the chap only can do 90#, so I will have to make the stave more narrow and get decent bend (again) before I put these on.
Jaro
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Very nice Jaroslav. When I make mine I get the edges that thin as well. I try to remove more horn from above the string groove though to keep their weight down. Steve said one nock was too thin on the Yew bow I sent him and had to remove it but they both looked good to me
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Yes it happens to me too, that they arrive as thin crust. But the part part where horn meets the wood tells.
Jaro
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Are you able to get those horn nocks that glossy with sandpaper?
It seems no matter how fine I go with the sand paper they are still a bit dull until I put a finish on.
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As I wrote: "some buffing" I use rug wheel and blue polishing compound. But you do all these things before the nocks go on the bow and you dont put finish over the nocks unless its natural wax/oil polish. If you lacquer the nocks it
a) somehow beats reasons to have them on bow and spending time to make them nice
b) it starts to flake off sooner and later and its fugly
J.
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>>it starts to flake off sooner and later and its fugly<<
Thanks for the info. That's good to know.
I haven't put any finish on the nocks that are on my bow (yew elb but not a warbow)
I just wiped some on a scrap piece that I was "testing".
Too darn much work to chance a mistake.
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Are you able to get those horn nocks that glossy with sandpaper?
It seems no matter how fine I go with the sand paper they are still a bit dull until I put a finish on.
If you're doing everything by hand, I find metal polish or paint cutting compounds work extremely well on horn, after you have finalised the shape and general finish with fine sandpaper (e.g approx 320 grade). In the UK these products translate in my case to Solvol Autosol, and/or T-Cut. I dont know what your equvalent products are in the US or the rest of Europe, but you must have something similar ;)
//Bob