Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Allyn T on October 21, 2020, 08:06:01 pm
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This is a PSA message. Everyone do yourself a favor and if you don't own a farrier rasp, get one. It's a life saver
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This is a fact. I made my first several using a Nicholson 4 way rasp, a Farriers rasp is way way faster. I still use the rounded side of a 4 way on the fades, but for all the tough belly work and bringing the profile in the farriers rasp is the ticket. You can get a good one for ~$30 and it’s money very well spent.
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Shinto rasp is even better.
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I have a shinto and it doesn't even come close to the wood removal my farriers is capable of
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I have a bandsaw, if I didn't I would use a farriers rasp for roughing out stuff, especially hickory.
Because I bandsaw my staves down to bow blank stage a Nicholson #49 is my tool of choice.
One thing I failed to notice is how dull our rasps get over time, they do it so slowly you won't notice it until you get a new rasp and are amazed by how well it cuts.
I made bows for 20 years with my first #49 and never noticed that is had gone downhill in the cutting department. A guy on eBay had a bunch of new old stock American made #49 rasps he was selling for $20, I bought one, good grief would that thing cut.
I sent my old #49 and 50 to Boggs Tools for sharpening, they came back just like the new rasp I had just bought.
https://boggstool.com/file-division
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All my tools are new and sharp but I am working hickory and the belly is so wide that I just couldn't make any progress with what I had(a 8 inch Nicholson half round coarse rasp) first time using the farrier rasp and it just devoured wood. I am so happy, I had pretty much stalled out on my bow because the time spent just wasn't adding up to real progress
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Ill check out the boggs tools, I have some dull wrasps
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I get my rasps from a farrier when he is done with them ...free..... and they still hog off the wood... I like how one side hogs off and the other cleans it up... plus they make a great knife and dry scraper head when totally worn... gut
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I get my rasps from a farrier when he is done with them ...free..... and they still hog off the wood... I like how one side hogs off and the other cleans it up... plus they make a great knife and dry scraper head when totally worn... gut
I got several for free from a local farrier as well. What he casually tossed away as worthless was still incredibly sharp for my uses, enough so that I sliced a finger open on the coarse side when I got careless handling it. I will have to keep the knife idea in mind for when I finally wear one out, it is a great chunk of steel for that.
Mark
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i love shinto rasps, and i love my farriers rasp. but i wont rough out my bow with a shinto rasp. or at least not untill i have a flat surface to work on.
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I like both but I found that I tend to push the rasp sideways and the Shinto's won't take that for long. They bend. It may be because I'm a lefty.
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Left On! The bending is more likely due to the sawtooth construction, they appear to be hacksaw blade thick. I managed to score 2 on sale for $20 each when we decided to move, still use the farrier's rasp, as well.
Hawkdancer
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I've just wondered if us lefties use some tools in a different fashion than righties. Scissors, for example. I've learned to use right handed scissors by squeezing them the opposite direction. I believe that files are cut for right handed people and that lefties learn to use them a little different than righties do. That's why I think that I push the file sideways rather than lengthwise. I may be wrong on this one though.
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Dc I tend to push sideways when I angle the rasp unless I'm working down a specific spot
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I'm right handed and generally push a farriers rasp at an angle. I've had mine for almost 3 years and it has ground through everything from poplar to ironwood and purpleheart. It's done probably no more than 25 bows and half a boat frame though.
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Another useful tool is the spokeshave especially on white woods. It takes a little practice to get used to but in less than a day you can handle one pretty well.
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I concur, I've had a shinto rasp for a while and I did love it when I first got it. But then I got a farriers rasp and I haven't even looked at my shinto since it is an awesome tool. I use it for roughing to tillering out to about 24 inches, just use a nice light touch and you can have some amazingly controlled wood removal.
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This whole discussion is so interesting to me. I've been making selfbows and all-wood board bows since the early 90s and I don't think I have ever used a rasp for anything other than a very small 4-in-1 for rounding the handle. What I am getting at is the fact that there are just so many different ways to do things and we all end up using whatever suits our own personalities. I use a bandsaw to do 95% of the work since I'm too impatient.....and then I tiller with a belt sander and a cabinet scraper. To be sure, I have seen a good rasp do some serious wood removal when I have watched others work and I keep wondering if I ought to try it.....so many options and too little time!
Matt
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I just watched a video on sharpening a farrier's rasp by placing it in a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on the end filled with white vinegar. Rasp is placed in the tube and left overnight then neutralized with baking soda in water. Turns it dark but chemically sharpens to a respectable degree. Having said that - I just bought a new Diamond brand as my old one needs a face lift!
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My go-to for heavy wood removal is a 12” half round cabinet rasp. It is a beast that removes wood with ease. That said I have never tried a farrier rasp so I cant say how it compares.
Cheers,
Taylor
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I don't know if I would try to sharpen one lol, mine was only 30 bucks. Rakau, Brad said he uses his for tillering too I will prolly give that a try. Taylor if your getting your wood off and having no issues I wouldn't worry about it, but...I think you'd love a farriers. Badger what all do you use a spokeshave for, I have one but I've never used it.
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the main reason I use it,, rasp.. is cause I enjoy using it,, I dont really like the band saw,, I can tiller with it,, but like the rasp better, but as stated,, many good tools that work well,, its just me,, I can use a light touch and take very little wood, I like the long rasp as it helps me keep things even and not take off too much in one spot,, when I made bows professionally, I used belt sander and tube sander etc,, and it was faster,, but faster is not my objective now,, I enjoy the process,,, so rasp and knife for scraper,, are my tools for tiller,, not saying they are the best, just what I enjoy,, and thats why I make bows because I enjoy making them,, and it keeps it simple,,
once the stave is roughed out, I only need need 2 tools,, rasp,, and knife,,to tiller the bow,, I like simple,, and with the farriers rasp,, I only need one rasp,,
every one has their own method and preference, just like every guitar player has an insturment of favor,,the bow maker has tools that work best for him,, when the arrow hits the mark,,your process is a success,,
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The way you write about it Brad I can tell two things, that you have done this for a long time, and that you truly love bow making.
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https://boggstool.com/file-division
I understand they do better on courser files and rasps, the really fine tooth files are harder to sharpen.
They use to sharpen your files and sent them back with a bill. I see now that first time customers get a call when your files are done and you pay up front before they ship. They must have had some folk stiff them under the old system. If you have one that is beyond hope and doesn't meet their standards they will try to sharpen it but not charge you if is doesn't measure up.