Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mad Max on November 28, 2020, 04:25:49 pm
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What's better and why?
Top of the pencil line ring is .080 thick late growth
the first full ring on the belly stave is .140 late growth ring
2017 Clint's stave
I am wanting to make a flip tip 1-5/8" or 1-3/4" wide
(https://i.imgur.com/LKQpI0D.jpg)
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I’d say bottom is better. Your late growth is your strong sound wood and the late to early ratio is better on that one, both should make a good bow though
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I would go to the 1st solid growth ring from the top that I could chase without violating. If there is enough thickness for whatever type handle, or you can glue a piece on to give thickness you need for a handle.
If you can split cleanly at the split that is started, then maybe you could get a second bow out of the bottom half. But don’t get greedy and not get at least 1 out of the stave.
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I'd go with the first good ring, the 2nd one down on the right side. Is it thick enough to get a piggy back stave? Then you could test each scenario.
You beat me to it, bentstick.
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I probably picked it up from you Pat.
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It is already split into a belly a back stave in the picture, I am holding it together. ;)
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That bottom stave looks like there are a lot of checks in-between the growth rings
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There's a nice one right under your index finger. Then trying for a piggyback is a great idea as Mr Pat ad Mr Bentstick suggested. Jawge
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I got both of them chased down, the backs look good.
I will cut the end off the lower stave and see if that crack keeps going.
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Doesn't matter :)
Design the bow around the particular staves properties.
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Doesn't matter :)
Design the bow around the particular staves properties.
funny, I had a design in my head and both of these are telling me NO.
I have a couple more staves to look at.
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Both staves built in the same design , both probably tillered I would put my money on the bottom stave to take less set and have better performance. But make a bow from both and prove me wrong. Both will make serviceable bows. Arvin
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Thanks guy's
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If your concerned about the thickness of the rings make it a little wider. Jawge
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If our concerned about the thickness of the rings make it a little wider. Jawge
Good info Jawge.
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top ring on both staves.. you don't have to make osage that wide either... 1" wide has been made with no issues.. I'd go 1 1/2 max...reflex with flip tips is how I would go.. you will lose some reflex during tillering .. flip tips profile just looks mean too... .. gut
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I usually just go for the first full length ring. That way I if I guff up I get another chance.
I usually chase the ring and if I have a lot of wood left to remove I try to get a belly split.
Bjrogg
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Thanks guy's ;)
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Whilst the belly split has thicker rings, they look like they have a lot of pithy pores through the heartwood. This is usually a good indicator that the wood is low density. The rings from the top stave are narrower but they don't look like they have the same amount of pithy pores in the heartwood.
I suspect the top stave will make a stronger, lower set bow than the same design, and dimension bow from the inner stave.
You could make the lower stave a bit longer or wider, and lessen set.
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Yes the lower stave has yellowish speckles in it.
I just learned something, Thanks Hamish.