Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Allyn T on February 18, 2021, 10:24:44 am
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Ok I have my second ever bow out to 50@28" it's 72" ttt with parallel limbs 3/4 length. I'll show progressive unbraced pics to show where it was taking set and see what you guys think, I'm just asking for advice for the next one and what could have helped with this one. With the full draw on the tree I have the hook where the arrow would be so the bow is tipping on the tree a little bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/fm1hQGF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lI6Tv7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fnNwPBI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6EEnOuE.jpg)
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you can reduce those tips some..but I would flip them first if mine.. almost looks like a molly bow profile they are so thick.. the right limb needs to bend more out of fade to second hump.. stay off first hump and definitely stay off second hump its trying to hinge for sure.. so scrape that ,a lil wood removal can mean a lot at this stage.. 4 or 5 scrape and check it by exercising it with at least 20 pulls.. before anything else..its a pain to keep checking with lil removal but this is where a 50lb bow can end up 35 real quick.. it also needs some wood removal from second hump to where you got tips stiff.. that is what I am seeing.. see what others think too... if me I would definitely flip those tips...left limb is tilling itself ... gut
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Thanks gut, I want to keep it a simple straight bow so I won't flip the tips but I'll work on those other areas. The tips are getting thinned a lot I left them thick for now because I'm working around some drying checks.
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Looks like the hump on thE right side has a very slight hinge. Remove mid limb on left side slightly. That hump could be fooling me though. Arvin
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Yeah what gut said ;D
Looks like on the right limb where the hump is hinging a little is also where it took most of the set on that limb, which is a good indicator of where’s more stressed... :)
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that one limb is tricky, I hesitate to advise,, with a photo, how does it shoot,,,,
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That RH limb is very, very hard to judge with photos on the internet. It doesn't look like it is taking set there to me, assuming the limbs were both straight at they are in the first photo. (If you hold up a pencil to the photo, they both seem pretty straight to me...which doesn't mean there isn't a slight hinge there, but as Brad says, it's tricky.) I would have to go by thickness taper in that spot. It looks like you have done an admirable job so far!
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First off great job on a tricky stave! My eyes see a flat spot on the left limb with a slight hinge on either side starting just in from where the tips get really thick and then flat moving inwards for about 6 inches or so. That’s just what I’m seeing. Keep up the great work!
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Ok I took about 40 scrapes off the inner right to get the tips more even from draw point. Weighs about 49@28 which is belly of handle so that's 29.25 at the back. I thinned the tips and got my nocks set. Brad I shot a arrow for my compound but I couldn't tell ya if it was good lol. I added a braced photo and new full draw
(https://i.imgur.com/B0tfaEv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jLlAACJ.jpg)
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just measure from back of bow,, to mark on arrow for draw,, so its about 49@ 29,,
you need a good arrow so you can tell if the bow is shooting, like if you need to adjust positive tiller or take more off the handle on arrow side to get good arrow flight, so you can kill a deer,,
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Yeah it's 29" but it'll show 28 on my tiller tree. I want to be able to make all my bows the same draw length regardless of handle depth. I'm ordering arrows for it so we shall see how it shoots then. I'm super stoked to take it for a spin (-S (SH) ;D
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I'm ordering arrows for it so we shall see how it shoots then. I'm super stoked to take it for a spin (-S (SH) ;D
You should be - it’s awesome! Great work.
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Thank you kidder : )
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Looks lots better , i would take some off from second hump to tip .. not much just needs lil more bend .. to tackle a tricky stave is a challenge for even experienced bowyers . You brother are doing that wood justice .. I’d still would’ve flip those tips hahaha.. gut
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I would flip it around and look at the other side, the humps can fool you very easy, sometimes it looks way different when flipped.
Pappy
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Looks like those 40 scrapes did alot of good. Still looks like that right limb is just a bit strong, however I'd wait to get some arrows through it before I removed any more. Tricky piece, looking good!
Mike
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Right limb looks good. Left limb appears to bend too much mid limb. A few scrapes from above and below should help.
Selfbow's draw is usually from the back.
Jawge
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Pappy is right.. good idea.. not going to question George either.. haha..certainly improved tremendously from first pic..gut
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Never mind. Left limb looks good. Darn thing is playing tricks on my old eyes. :)
Allyn, this is your second bow. Don't worry to much about set. Just get a bow.
Thanks, gut. Ok to question me.
Jawge
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I didn't know what you were seeing on left limb but hey.. Jawge knows bows.. haha.. my eyes getting old too.. Pappy is right though.. it is a good idea to flip the tricky knotty staves over and view that side.. on humps.. I draw a line on side profile on both sides.. following dimensions of limb thickness into and out of humps...only way I can assure I don't leave too much or take off too much in those tricky spots.. . they will almost always trick you to take off too much and cause a hinge... JM2C..gut
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I'll flip it when I get home. In the pics it does look like the right limb is a little strong but I think in person it looked even, now I'm second guessing.is it okay to use an arrow not made for the bow just to shoot it in as long as I stand close to the target so I know I'm not going to shoot the wall? I originally set thickness taper changing every 6 inches a 16th of an inch and then as I continue tillering I blended those differences together and on the hump I tried to feel with my fingers as it went through the limb to try to match it as close as I could to the thickness on the edge.
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what arrows did you order,,
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I'm getting them from Khan's arrows
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are they wood what spine and weight,,
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I haven't ordered them yet. He talks to you about everything with your bow and style of shooting to try and match dynamic spine not just grain weight and static spine.
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ok thats great ,,,,maybe just start with something middle of the road,, and forgiving,,something that might work at at say 28 to 30 inches of draw,, since you dont know the cast of your bow,, it might prefer a lighter spine or heavier spine, lots of variables,, I know what works in a wide range of bows for me,, if you gonna draw to 30 then cut them 31 to back of field tip,,50 55 spine,, should work ,, if you think you gonna draw to 32,, then go 55 60,,, you can always go up in tip wieght if they shoot too stiff,,
that should give you a good starting point,, to work from,, cedar , sitka spruce,, and douglas fur are all nice,,
heavier, maple and birch are my favorite,, and hickory if I can get it,, but just start with the cheapest till you know exactly what the bow likes,,,,you bow is long, ,, so you can adjust the brace to make a reasonable spine arrow shoot,,
as your release gets better you can shoot a wider range of spine all the same,, so when you first start,, dont blame the bow if you not getting good arrow flight,, it will be your release and the arrow that need tuning,, maybe where the arrow passes could go a bit more narrow,, if the arrow is hard to tune,,
ok just to clarify,, the spine arrowthe bow will like will be effected by how hard the bow is shooting,, not the draw weight,, if the bow is shooting 150 fps,, it will like a lighter spine,, if its shooting 160 fps heavier 170 fps a little heavier,, so there is a wide range there to guess what spine the bow gonna like,, so its not like you can say well its pulling 50# so it will like 50# spine arrows, so I am guessing the cast of the bow based on the profile and draw weight,, also the spine of the arrow is effected by how long the arrow is cut,, so thats what I am basing my guess on,, when you saw me shoot on utube,, those arrows were 70# spine out of a 50ish bow, they were longer so forgiving,, and my release was smooth,, I didnt have to go down to a 45# spine arrow to get arrow flight ,,, your longer draw is gonna like a heavier spine arrow,, :)
a heaver mass weight arrow will reduce hand shock on a longer bow as well,, and be a bit more forgiving,,the guy making your arrows does not know the cast of your bow,,so he would be guessing ,,,, if he knows about self bows,, then maybe a good guess,, if you shot it through a chrono,, it would be easier to guess, ,but once you get the first set of arrows,,,,, that will be your starting point to fine tune what works best,,cutting them shorter or heavier or lighter weight up front, and next time you will adjust spine weight when you get used to the bow,, or you might just get it perfect on the first arrows we hope,,
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Thank you for the heads up Brad, any suggestions on where to get starter arrows? I want to make my own eventually but I know that's time consuming and I want to keep making bows first : )
I suppose I could get cheap carbon arrows first to dial in spine and shoot in my bow, as long as no one hated me for it
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please no Carbon arrows,, :) I think 3 rivers has some cedars made up, you could get them full lengh,, and cut them shorter to tune,,
making arrows is fun, so learn to do that too,,
also, what is the mass weight of your bow, I forgot to ask, ,thats gonna tell someting about the cast,, I think DC was using carbon arrow to test his bows, but I dont have any experience tuning a bow with them ,,so would even know where to start, or how to translate what carbon arrow would shoot like a wood arrow,,
Hickory makes a great arrow and you have lots of that, split a strainght piece and see if you can do it,, just scrape it till the spine is right and it shoots well,, tie the feathers on,, cut self nock,, and just taper the end for point with rasp,, I just use my rasp to shape them, if need be,,or you could also use a dowel, and scrape till its the right spine,, dogwood makes a nice arrow too,, the shoots,, Jay Massey has a chapter in his book,, but I sure utube has video, and also the section here on arrows would have info you need,,
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Last I weighed it, it was 25.93 ounces which is pretty close to what the mass formula called for. It has pin nocks, the pins are 1/4 inch and the shoulders are just wide enough for the string
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that sounds like you did great on the mass weight, should shoot nice,, with little hand shock and and good cast,
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I hope so! The problem with having zero experience is I have no way of knowing how "sweet it feels in the hand
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I have a spruce arrow that is still full length, ,if you need me send,, just give me address again,,
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I appreciate that Brad but I can def get some arrows. If you ever come to Missouri I'll have you shoot it and tell me how it is : )
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sounds good,, I can see it gonna shoot good,,