Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tim P on July 11, 2021, 07:06:23 am
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Hi Guys!
I am getting close to roughing out an ash stave for my first bow and a number of questions are popping up already.
I wanted to source my stave myself and started with a piece of Ash I found in the woods. I know it is prefered to cut down the tree yourself, but this is not allowed where I live. So I will have to make do with what I can find. There was some worm under the bark, so I chased a few thin outer rings until I got to a nice thick one and the worm holes were gone.
While drying in the last two weeks, the stave developed a bit of a propellor twist and a reflex
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IQRcrrrD3s1_MxrX10yzM_p2mRFbOtj_rDaLJs4rq2ArYJSDsh__ihH31AOf2_9O8emZPZD7-pxbG8blUSXu6p0gf5bvriqHURSgW7OlOslYV43acgc94OSrjnRUlKUVnV3UZMzw1nQ)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_UsgCuq6dnEF50fDrF-zZZLDyydXiqmZUkFiqd3jMn8CV6FCqKFXGWM1L6UE0R8l0IdvevEVRnCn9tsZJK43krY5Ne-7XjnMLIUEGo4IX1rZ207VbU2VPDPSmWduh6VXRtWeiBBYUPg)
The stave is currently a bit more then 2inch wide
I suppose the reflex is a good thing.
The propellor twist is most severe on the end of one of the legs. but the stave is still a bit long, so can shorten the bow and avoid most of it.
I wanted to steam and recurve the tips, but I am not sure if that's a good idea on ash. The bowyers bible Vol 1 says that a recurve will make the bow much more efficient, but vol2 warns against it because it will increase the strain on the wood and result in more set, so it might not always be a good idea.
Would now be a good time to steam and recurve + straighten (after cleaning up the wood a bit)
Since I started from a branch, I have a few knots that I need to work with and around the handle, I am currently going through the soft pith in the hearth of the stave.
How should I work around the pith? just leave it? or remove wood from the belly at the handle until I have all the pith removed?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Eo0daF9G_IKqb-s3Pi4bx_iFSUYPGPorLCszNBFfzhfcyq6DbUC5aXtVGeITImbh4QZsRJjCdfC_Jm3YyKDRG7sxfxVzK4KbLQeLFit1xKQ4xOZSglUQFR8DIRRLEoaXHoEaHqeqlCM)
The wood is thick enough that I can probably cut out some of the knots, But on others I would weaken the leg too much. Is there a way to work with them or am I doomed and should I look for a new stave? :-\
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KFpZY08VqB5WdjGtXF1P1ZmnVY2D8Ulm17DepuASCrlzaywPdUNgpAG6yMhYXOjin8E7HMFszw55tC7q8LylAJQyUFLct9UXssaPQ5d2DWNO1siGVbF1w5w6ASa2FGOSHj1ifTDOka4)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0_lM7BLH8HxL_zO-zZJKR2TvOw34u5VUrNOSMmXS_v23aSb0fonaf52BTsuq-B97EPJBpVBRvDlyO3j_MBJJ4QXLTLeI0oKEmk8a_qNuqJNRmXoHbwVnGHD6YFEIiBAznAVZmzHPvtY)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/79flUIIfJBwrSdGPxYiWz-KO6X7pcTwOhBQBYQugSSxm3k-CpA_Cmj6Br5X4-rdfudChlAZ_l1jzTFmdmWqQ7kHRZPHbrYQPeFbaYbi9QKwLKiC8MRWF8SYN1ZBTUgxitnYhcuEECIU)
Cheers,
Tim
EDIT: Pictures
EDIT2: I had a lot of trouble trying to figure out how to upload pictures. If they are distorted it is because of my first bad upload. Force reload your browser should help reload them
https://superuser.com/questions/405811/how-to-reload-a-page-in-opera-without-cache/1244423 (https://superuser.com/questions/405811/how-to-reload-a-page-in-opera-without-cache/1244423)
Sorry for this
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Welcome to PA, Tim. The second pic with the opposing knots is very worrying. Anytime knots go toward the edge of a stave makes it difficult to build a successful bow.
I'm going to move your thread to "BOWS" for better coverage.
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Assuming that the wood is sound enough to make a bow, I would simply thin it down to 3/4 inch for all working limb sections and 1.5 inch wide for all unbending sections. Then design a side profile that makes sense with the stave. I would not do any "correction" using the manufactured bow aesthetics. Any natural material bow from a stave should not be expected to look like a fiberglass recurve.
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Thanks for moving the topic Pat. I started thinning it down and hopefully I 'll come away with the 2 knots. They are mostly gone now and the stave is just starting to show some springyness when floor tillering. hopefully I end up just under the knots.
Knots:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HjOAFPz0_Dw7gKphukXu9BeC5HACGqOuuIBDY-LpYc4aVWEBnwHZ9Ee83tYfrAhnNZOxnPjjgi7mDbSnNp49XwwEHG_H0NkUNWuHfojvJGO4bQeqsv99iIkqNav-Bp-yUOubf1xkDhY)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7K4mKYpFU6MuAazck2kBFmeDhizarme-ADxFwXSS-wVLUH6BnfLJP5EudVMpL44x3oS4eU2gTW6IjwyMqSy1g7u4kLTPRzoD9Kkf3Xe-KpJM6sNs2zvfVX5awP_t2wWLFVd88be423E)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vSSPy-IpYKsrFQ2E1yH8n4uqMU6G601uc9Zt2yBtT8RQbi6sWfhE9RGP4fv7GbgrIGb3tt9vWwyL7ionWOa_4BBYJ2jnhOPpEKsnC2kwElFohWVrj-HKAOpBbKUZZGwg1ychoQBcCVA)
I am not worried about aesthetics, but currently my limbs are not in the same plane. Would that not be an issue when shooting the bow? I assumed straightening the propellor twist was a must...
Propellor twist:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rqCX8Vx63LK3vLiWKdb5Xi2rlXTvLBtPuK2kQ1nyOljyhgB63o7HrlmYGB5W5QH83IuBFkV_kXMo_xry4CuvmC3GmSIPA5MoAxrIQsFq0D6BdG5oWaKVEPS32eMBDw1LM88-yFfo8UQ=w1920-h1080)
And what to do with the pith in the middle of the stave?
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I usually fill what is seen of the pith beer the handle with super glue, I don't know if it's required, but at least it evens it out.
Where are the knots in the bow. If that one cluster is in the bending portion, I would think it would need to be left stuff and heavy, especially on ash.
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That is a pretty wacky stave for your first bow, can you find any straight grained maple, hickory, or oak lumber?
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That is a pretty wacky stave for your first bow, can you find any straight grained maple, hickory, or oak lumber?
I hear you, but I am in Europe and we don't have hickory or maple (only sycamore 'Acer pseudoplatanus'). There is plenty of oak but thats always very gnarly.
We have a lot of black locus though, so I might try that next. Or maybe a fruit tree like cherry, apple or pear.
On top of that, wood is generally extremely expensive here and its hard to find something good. I'm on the lookout though...
The cluster of knots is in the middle of the bending portion in one of the legs :(
I'll continue with this stave and if it breaks, at least I tried. And I 'll look for a better stave for the second try ;D
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Hello Tim, you won't have a problem to get a clean straigt ash stave any place in Europe.
I wouldn't know what to do with this stave.
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Looks like you are doing a good job... just ignore the pith. If you end up with a hole going through the grip, it's a "feature" or you can glue a skewer or such like in it.
I see you've already seen how the knots fell off the side of the bow... if you just keep going, a lot of the problems will resolve themselves (a bit like life! ;) )
Del
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We have a lot of black locus though, so I might try that next. Or maybe a fruit tree like cherry, apple or pear.
Black lotus is very good bow wood and so it is apple. Depending where you are you may find hazel.
It is usually easy to find straight saplings and you can rough the bow and speed dry it
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That is a tough stave. I'd look for another and I've been making bows for 30 plus years.
Those are pretty big knots and are problematic when they go across the width of the limb.
I alway leave the knots a little stiffer than the rest of the limb when tillering.
I don't know what else I can say.
Jawge
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So I got a bit further on that wonky stave. :) The knots mostly disappeared when taking off more wood. I'll post some pictures later.
Its bending about 1 to 2 inch when floor tillering now.
I think the string is too far out from the handle. Should I steam and align the limbs for a better match at the handle now before starting on the tillering tree?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n5n2aW0fDIRvs-w505IiphZ3BWC5Vv4BhGLQrvcn7bu4FmZ1EPqyDl6RBHqWHdR9GdfCdMC91aVPgMHhCb670XHTqFFU8NaaybXrJM2ATArEXSB4UnCaMfVwp-RxG2hjUPiwilgfZDA=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0tJqQNu775qxYGiN_o_cRgDo_24kK_i0wIzpNbjhWt9_Q8ris9QUYr1_Zg_KmjHWwM8-HRp1LZXQBCsLjRBllbjzQN25F1DVFRB3Gb8575BfEaz0WbsCpuUUtQ3biBWigccMvzTYeoM=w1920-h1080)
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I also have a lot of scuffs and marks left on the back from when I was chasing the rings. Is there a good way to clean this up or should I just let it be? I left part of the previous ring (spring wood) on as I didn't want to damage the underlying ring...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0W6CUH7N8UyVRtGxqQl8g7F55LJgW1gzKt5pgq7zntfyuqTEZPRaGF4PJ2WVS8WvQ8jRRPgt1dFfCU82162uXZ8iaXzkLNMRz9qJwifiQGBOYAgU9mpHjcvn30pmYCZCuUORWGZQI_E=w1920-h1080)
Tim
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If you move the string across to the extreme edge of the tips and make narrow tips with an overlay you will have an acceptable string line.
Like the one on the left in the pic.
But for now (for early tillering) just tie the string across to that side, as things can shift. It's a classic illustration of why its a bad idea to narrow the grip and tips too early.
Del
PS, just lightly sand the back or use a cabinet scraper (but even that can cause nicks)
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Oh, So do you normally start tillering first and narrow the grip and tips somewhere during tillering then?
I though it would be easier to cut out the front profile first and then only work the belly during tillering.
Thanks for the tips Del! I 'll sand the back and then get my new tillering tree out :D
Tim
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I don't have nearly the experience of most of the help you'll get here, but experience will quickly show you how much easier a flat unformed handle sits on your tillering tree, especially in early tillering. When you form it will depend if your doing stuff or bending through.
I've also tried side knocks. It's a pretty cool trick. You can make your bow much closer to center shot so it's less fussy about arrow spine.
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Yes leave the handle and nocks wide until at least bracing. Then you can shape the handle to track the string better. Nocks can be cut deeper to bring the string on the handle and then shaped.
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Almost at bracing height now. didn't pulled it beyond 40 pounds. I want to play it safe and aim for a 40 - 45 pound bow. Or should I go lighter (30 - 40 pound) on this wonky stave?
I left the tips a bit thicker so they wont ben too much once I start tapering them more. I guess I 'll carve temporary nocks and then start tapering the tips as needed.
While thinning out the limbs, a few knots became brittle and came out of the belly. Not sure what I should do with them. I was thinking of narrowing the limb between the knots slightly as to even out the stress as drawn on the second picture
Any Advice?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/quRUejK-YL_s6mK4akPUun4vQnXEHg3W1Ttv9MFEeMT6heacG4U6VmyIx98I8sapWvYDnhcXR06kUSTQC-uXzo2SC8hPX4DQTjNbltFK6A4osOxFe1bKUme7GYQX6bkFxnY_7QGcCnw=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PQoEfz45Oqcz2j3scPksFpw3-U7DIBqUPnZ8D_z8Tpq01Y9Q6qomGCOkMj3QmOj0DjtVMXutM-aWl5CepDe5Gsh7frlEkLGF4sBs28G-gsr8p30n8-3EZKqxdsYAWfJ_abreq7lUonk=w1920-h1080)
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Where the string sits on it unbraced is not a big deal, especially so the more character the stave has. Forget the 'stringline' until the bow is braced. Where it sits when it is braced is what matters.
The way I do these bows is to leave the handle full width until it is braced....you then simply shape the handle to where the string naturally wants to sit :) Very simple and effective....thank me later :)
As for your last question then yes your idea to narrow the limbs either side of the knot is a good idea. A lot of it will likely be removed in the finished bow anyway but the grain around the knot still needs some help even if the punky stuff is no longer there.
Once you have the width established clean up the sides of the bow and make them smooth and 'square' to the back. Put some marks on the limbs edges at,1/8th,1/4",/3/8",1/2" and 5/8ths (from the back). Then using your finger as a guide, connect the marks to give you a series of parallel lines running along the edges of your limbs 1/8th apart. Now as you tiller you will have a visual guide to keep your wood removal even (from one side of the limb to othe other) and it also makes establishing a thickness taper easy. Follow any dips in the grain and avoid taking the 'tops' off any high spots.
Go and find some black locust and cut yourself some nice clean staves. B.Locust is one of my absolute favourite woods. Top notch stuff.
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So my respect for the guys making a bow in a day has grown tremendously yesterday.
In the morning, I thought I was almost at bracing height. After 8 hours of shaving and tillering, I have a floor full of wood curls, an aching back and gained maybe 2 inch on the tiller. Still not able to brace it. (I did notice that I will need to order some string material, because the rope that I am using is stretching too much.)
The sides are becoming very thin in some spots. Just a few millimeters. So I will have to change my design. I was hoping to make a robust wide paddle bow, but it seems it will end up to be more of a piramid design if I have to narrow the limbs.
Current dimensions:
68" Nock to Nock (measured between where the nock grooves ends on the belly)
2" wide overall (tapering smaller on the outer thirds)
thickness mid limb: 1/2" in the middle, 1/8 inch on the edges
Almost all of the side knots are completely gone. Just one spot with strange grain is left now. I should probably thin this a bit more.
I like how it looks now with the limbs narrowed between the knots
Thanks for the helpful tips so far, I learned a lot already!
Tillering tree:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fuXPM7T_SwWs9K1wjy9-gFlheYghv8q6DEyF6s9EArEYIh2tUwo3wdAeQVRSqxeUpctedYzE-lilriGj4KkLtLHE391FI2GB_Sq4U-T80U4y11IFf2bYA8mlsvawWBU6J2e6e0WRgi0=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7UClQ2Fm4uqahqSdl4UA5Aqn44OqHQ7fa_K8N8vwi4H40vTmkPKpoIz-E1TJ1WK-j9F79Y4ips0q5Z9IvNeTB1GrRp-CquiUcVMBbRBE9Pk_v7QL_ktNYmtYM03qM2MFeBd4OsKJcU4=w1920-h1080)
Thin spot at the sides:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d6vkoGldBKLsMZD6vDEzyYeNue3mcFT6C1IadPmVeyn4Uxh2-UliZBe0iU6xQY4dBN-DdOh1I-9uuKdwbYix-Pl3sSZZ6G5sKveB8fQRKLtO7wWCy1OrfPYgQ8h1rKzc4ObEKqf5JQ=w1920-h1080)
Strange grain:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ii6-BVIIKf5ts_pLV61bqp408ny8Ay56F3ETzeAbxNPjQOPF7ZbUwrsb9oR181LyZGSLdfCF9ap5IMnWhvD3q9bsAU-c_99HPOAJm7y6sna-BrIyQWFOWy8CDkJDPUyI9XHD3JRiYXY=w1920-h1080)
More pics:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OvYPx8nm7IBeu9m6815PJIwgL851ItCMjVyjbqb993vtr715xqtpe3yet_bNv80TwjH-o1RiELIZwE7yStkEK8Zuwmhwu3Pcav12RJU1ci_1Jm7ShEIibp7uzbZC5ShABPY_o-5aCCs=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lS7Ur9IlmeHVxvjekEVDUsW3AIvJdMbuJ4Zg-KWT5orkB3ek3OEoqpnXe7UTVFxcT524jdD4xUQwuSnIeWWfL02dNEtk9CrPQ_NVpPsstfo3bHTWMaTYBARpNJjn2fs8CI3sBLwCZHE=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hMdbtwDubQrUdg-nKqVMz24nSAJ7UTjqkFnemPanMdD_4WVQ0JA3cYP2fImMbf7UqH6rjO-dT4c5tcUm3dwnW40ziitsSNcX92vSAPqB1_JuyaiV-jA7a8cTkEQ3dnH9iEd3EAzK27U=w1920-h1080)
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Limbs are getting thin (and I am getting scared of breaking it :P)
Not sure where to go from here... It seems really stiff in the handle and then bend a lot after the fades
Pulled until 35#
Overlay:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yLugx6WzecmeV6BWBYAkqX2jQ2xqDv6xDKrIL4iTYGhvb2GZrYFzHliAyFtoa3h4wwatPwTVB4HJi8378f6su-AOiuKGJ58ghPso0DG6tZIXn5exU4Um0Vr7A5phbCsRhyYF_3Dm-tM=w1920-h1080)
Individual pics:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GxJe7teTny8qCXQTuTqszBgvnX6JCCdIuY7W2-N04ZFtqKvXKkvjxoDRD-2FzTa6fqhPOE39eKW0S8o-hUpsoetwznA4K_p0yb9y_C619_HFV0U7lhwGI6HH4v-76kOp1n791FUfH2A=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P3o3WI6rwGbVuied1--mpT5gQAGptHBgh341ftz-deFLpAXymwBJjNRVmeVCF4_dbTH1N2EHs_I7tcmKbd5dgK68qSILnIQHmiohe6r1s1fPWQWN6V1cQ4ekhyntRvBCNzn9g-Pr3tw=w1920-h1080)
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If you stick to scraping, you will have more than enough chances to make nice even curves. It might help if you trace the lines on the paper, before bracing and after bracing, and then compare the current curve to them as you are pulling on the bow. Use long even strokes, as much as possible, please.
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So a few months passed away from my workshop, but today I continued the work.
The aim was 45# but I'll be happy with anything that shoots arrows (and doesn't break) for a first bow...
Pulled to 35#
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fpXMZtuqF6SuTLwEqyPtXfCR6hfVeLCDUdXEaWt-xzNV3huk_zrQNZhd6GXCvVC88QMC9qZ4Em347zjK-vBDLDh7Z9U8pIYLIlA_74pfkS7ZBQUPATSpOoINuHPdE99hLtEC-6V34Yg=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OKmGRK_D3ccUHRzjRbYfGkN-leuCr5KJb_uQtfy4YsEs9DbVJVUhJdtKQ2hHZFJtKzFWjmQby-hivEUChGCyzS2isv8pku3zvNPUjiScUTroP3BP3o1PO3meT7Ir8uiKnY0q0zFt17g=w1920-h1080)
- I was working on the right arm, but it still seems a bit too stiff.
- the handle and the fades are quite solid. Should I thin the handle and fades and try to get them to work a bit too?
The string lies well out of the centre:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0XRVPZS9z0tfElIWgMglyZh04Jp40zG_wBGmaawecHtXzNbitRyU8mi-gZqH3uwNrexn-JaOHjKTrR_L1jHhGP4AK5Hs8sflZW2FZzS9UcclpoVedkNYzfyqF6IpY2NnqnBw9kjsLfM=w1920-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rShg9SPbA9kyfrKVbsUcMmA-mepVMZwCQAgJ_3czk7WO2ONZH19MS2trY1iHobR81QLj_pe-hdK-aX_sBC-GGODy1TP6xTujugMflPP71XtOZ0LQMzQRgw8kXZAwlBLDEbsXUXxqow=w1920-h1080)
The tips are still 1 inch wide (and too thick).
Should I try to narrow the tips and try to align the string first that way? Or try to play with the thickness of the arm and try to have it bend more to the other side? I believe one side is stiffer than the other, making it bend uneven at the moment
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Plan A:- Push the string across to one side of the tip and see if that improves the alingment. If so you can narrow the tip as required (just the last couple of inches.
Plan B:- narrow the grip a tad (from the side which will help string alignment.
Plan C:- do a bit of a heat bend at the grip.
Often there are several solutions and it requires a little of each A+B+C.
Del
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Its right upper limb appears to be too stiff. I would scrape the belly of stronger side of that section. IMHO, for natural staves, the limbs do not have to have exactly same thickness on both sides. That section can bend more and twist a little to the center line.
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Its right upper limb appears to be too stiff. I would scrape the belly of stronger side of that section. IMHO, for natural staves, the limbs do not have to have exactly same thickness on both sides. That section can bend more and twist a little to the center line.
Thats what I was thinking too. Thanks for confirming!
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And so, when everything seemed to go well, suddenly I noticed huge chrysals on both limbs :'(
They are on the edge and stretch into the back:
Belly:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2_L4i3XxpnKLt5kU3EzwmsWCmgS59jnRBAQvyqDGjmY09Tpdr4rHtkzaobPRcg-HUGSisvdY7mSOSadlmLTlK4ydcTXfwhZ_iB9pNuZcJDbSj0nyTHGIRobrF0VqPQH1W4H7z0PVbDI=w1920-h1080)
Back:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gi1m4_nMiACHmwuEkJB3_ODZ7Y3rLCwg0AP8BExYz9b_j5xDUt7xhkYTVXwIqKq428bgfUGjU5h-6KYqWAjKDr4eFApCjg53rjGcukQLIhSzwefkB8Y5mhOvfLDWS8nzUjzlDUH4aHg=w1920-h1080)
So it's probably firewood now.... Or any way to salvage it?
I'm not sure how it happened and how to avoid it the next time. Tiller was finally getting better and I was confident that I was near the finish line
The last time on the tillering tree was 20 inch at 35#
Of course I made rookie mistakes building this bow:
- Forced it too hard when trying to brace it the first time
- Accidentally pulled it too hard when it was on the tree (55#)
- Pulled it too far before I noticed there was a hinge
=> with this in the past, I expected the bow to have given out earlier. I am surprised that it did when I was finally getting the tiller sort of sorted.
Any ideas on what went wrong?
Just a pic of the final result. I like how the handle was turning out with that groove from the spongy inner bit :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tU_jZ6sgiq6i4AQxVaFkcBp5cHzusnv_mIOJyuMGgFe7wpxLwmZGb5QK_zcBYGTyC1cOAITsqZVxSKeFvcHodrKLM3kOW-5X0dG9D_Ofa-atBDNP-HSS9MUxZ28JzZofWBgJ_pM9rDg=w1920-h1080)
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Is the twist in the limbs increasing as you draw or does it stay fixed?
If it's fixed, you could steam the twist out some, and that might improve the centering of the string on the handle.
If it's increasing, you may need to scrape on the side it's bending toward to counter the twisting.
(where in Europe are you from?)
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How thin is the edge with chrysals? Less than 1/4 inch? Chrysals on the back do not make any sense, unless the edge is way too thin and the limb is twisted enough to turn the edge into a belly.
I would heat treat the belly and narrow the limbs to get rid of all chrysals. It just became a youth bow. No big deal, unless you want a game hunting bow.
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look at your grain - its a thin spot
this, the sharp edges and the rough surfaces attracts the chrysals.
Always watch your grain when tillering, round edges and make a smooth surface before any bending.
Limbs tend to twist when one side of the limb is thicker than the other. Maybe check that as well.
(-;
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I am in Europe and we don't have hickory or maple (only sycamore 'Acer pseudoplatanus'). There is plenty of oak but thats always very gnarly.
We have a lot of black locus though, so I might try that next. Or maybe a fruit tree like cherry, apple or pear.
Sycamore (Gewone Esdoorn and Noorse Esdoorn) is good for making bows, not as good as Ash (Es) and Elm (Olm) but reasonably good. Don't dismiss it - and it's common and relatively easy to find good straight saplings.
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How thin is the edge with chrysals? Less than 1/4 inch? Chrysals on the back do not make any sense, unless the edge is way too thin and the limb is twisted enough to turn the edge into a belly.
The edge is very thin. In some places less than 2mm. the profile looks like this:
(https://share.sketchpad.app/21/e9f-b068-c17501.png)
The chrysals are stretching into the back, but the back at that point is acting as belly because it is far below the centerline
(I was watching for limb twist when drawing the bow and I believe I eliminated most of the twist when drawing) but due to the curvy nature and all the knots, it is difficult to be sure that my limbs are even in all spots
look at your grain - its a thin spot
this, the sharp edges and the rough surfaces attracts the chrysals.
Always watch your grain when tillering, round edges and make a smooth surface before any bending.
Limbs tend to twist when one side of the limb is thicker than the other. Maybe check that as well.
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Yeah, I noticed that it is a thin spot, but too late. Next time I need to watch the grain more carefully between shavings
(where in Europe are you from?)
I'm from belgium, and you? Thanks for the tip regarding sycamore (esdoorn)!
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Keep building.
I second the advice of getting the best stave to begin.
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I'm from belgium, and you? Thanks for the tip regarding sycamore (esdoorn)!
I'm from Belgium too. (pm sent)
You're welcome. Hazel and Black Locust ("accacia") are also common and good. In some places you can find Dogwood (Kornoelje) but you need to know a bit what to look for before you spot them.
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Hey Tim,where in Belgium?
I'm on the German side of the Venn near Losheim/Büllingen.