Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Pat B on July 11, 2021, 02:42:18 pm
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I selected 3 sourwood shoots and 2 hill canes to build a few arrows, for the arrow trade and some for other projects. I started with an initial straightening a few days ago...
(https://i.imgur.com/ASa2J6E.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/gybSj6j.jpg)
Today I cut the shafts to 30" my normal length, did a little more straightening then spined them to find the stiff side, the side that goes against the bow. Once that is determined I cut the string nock and also taper the point end and cut the a slot for the point on the same plain. I do this for simplicity and for my style of shooting it works just fine.
(https://i.imgur.com/EtV3Pbv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5copNeK.jpg)
The shaft on the bottom had a naturally bulbous end so I'm gonna give that arrow a small game blunt. More to come...
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Pat those are looking good can't wait to see them finished.
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Love to watch your process! :OK
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Nice! I am working a red osier shaft for the trade! Just have to decide the fletch, point, and decorations to be ready to ship! (lol) (lol)
Hawkdancer
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I did a bit more hand straightening yesterday and worked on shaping the self nocks. I start this with a single bandsaw cut(I do the same for the point end)...
(https://i.imgur.com/w9EBxqd.jpg)
...then open that cut with a thin bladed knife...
(https://i.imgur.com/uEZKbfk.jpg)
...then with sandpaper folded over and over until I open the throat to my liking...
(https://i.imgur.com/5a3ozh4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ln5SJDc.jpg)
...then taper the point end and add the initial point slot. Each individual points will be fitted when the time comes. Also, on this sourwood shaft I'll use the natural bulbous end as a blunt for a small game arrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/PqLMz6d.jpg)
The next step will be a bit more hand straightening then I'll temper each shaft. This helps keep them straight.
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Looking good Pat
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I just got done with the tempering. I start at one end of the shaft and rotate slowly over the flame of our gas kitchen stove until I get good color change then move along the shaft, rotating over the flame as I go. Once you get to the other end be careful of the steam coming out. No matter how dry you think they are there is always steam. The color adds a bit of camo to the bright shafts. I check the straightness. There is always some bend but they straighten easily while still hot. Once that's done I lay them flat to cool and rehydrate...
(https://i.imgur.com/lVDSvMb.jpg)
...on the cane I like to compress the nodes instead of sanding them flat. I heat the node until I get good color then roll and compress the node with an osage block and our butcher block table. This color adds the camo effect to the cane shafts...
(https://i.imgur.com/aZmEXnb.jpg)
This is the osage block I use for compressing the nodes and my arrow wrench...
(https://i.imgur.com/nV0xO6B.jpg)
I happened to notice the rings on this osage block. Wish I had more osage like this again...
(https://i.imgur.com/ch3q5BN.jpg)
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Pat is your tool to straighten the shafts have a slope on both sides?
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Yes it does, Rob. It still dents the hot shafts some but not near as much as it would if it didn't have them.
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Now to haft the point. I like to haft the point at this time, now that the shaft is relatively straight so I can do a spin test to be sure the point lines up with the plain of the shaft. I test this by spinning the shaft with the point on the tip of my finger so I can feel if there is any wobble. I do a dry run first to be sure to get the point aligned with the shaft, not only this way...
(https://i.imgur.com/Z4oiYcN.jpg)
...but this way also...
(https://i.imgur.com/MNhrrpj.jpg)
When I'm sure it lines up well and it spins true I mark the shaft and point so I can go right back where it needs to be then I add the pitch glue to the slot in the shaft...
(https://i.imgur.com/an07yXr.jpg)
...then I heat up the point and soften the pitch glue over a candle and set the point in the slot on the shaft...
(https://i.imgur.com/IQXZ8YH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gPx2LS2.jpg)
...again I do a spin test to be sure it is all lined up.
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...now it's time for the sinew wrap. I use the longest strands of sinew I can get, generally is is backstrap sinew. I pull off a strand and chew it until it is soft then wrap around the shaft making sure the head is secured. Your saliva and the sinew makes it's one glue so no other glue is needed. I will seal all sinew wraps, at the point, the fletching and the self nock with pine pitch varnish, but that comes later. You can see the sinew wrap below the head on the shaft...(https://i.imgur.com/oXmYuTf.jpg)
I am using 3 strands of sinew, added one at a time making sure the head is secure but also go about 1" below the head with the wrap to strengthen the end of the shaft and the connection. Once the point is secure and the sinew wrap is dry I trim the end of the shaft to be sure that there is a smooth transition from point to shaft for good arrow penetration. In this pic you can see the left side has been trimmed, the right side not yet...
(https://i.imgur.com/Y7BaaSJ.jpg)
...more to come
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FYI...this is how I make the pitch varnish I use to seal sinew wraps. This is not a true varnish because it doesn't have any oil in it but it works just fine for what I use it for.
First you start with hard, brittle pitch. If you use softer pitch the varnish will remain sticky and not harden. I place the pitch nodules in a clean, air tight jar and cover it with denatured alcohol. Any alcohol will work even Ever Clear or moonshine. Other solvents will also work but denatured alcohol is the least dangerous to use.
The jar in the pic has had the ingredient in it for about an hour. It usually takes over night for all the pitch to dissolve into the solution. After this you can strain out the impurities which usually sink to the bottom. If any floats I remove it but don't worry about what's on the bottom.
To apply I use a small artist paint brush, dip it in the varnish and apply it to the sinew wrap. As soon as the alcohol evaporates the varnish is hard. Don't worry about cleaning the brush. The next time you use it it will soften when it goes in the varnish.
(https://i.imgur.com/vDoyL9r.jpg)
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Thanks for doing this build along pat, it's very helpful
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Pat, I personally thank you for this Pitch Shellac "how to"...I have used this many times and have learned this from your posts years ago...I use it on all sinew backings and wraps, it's bullet proof as far as I am concerned and it's proven it's self to me over and over...Thanks again my friend, keep it coming...
Don
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Don, years ago I read an article in PA Magazine about making varnish from tree sap. That's where I got the idea of pitch varnish and it does work well to seal sinew wraps.
Got all the points hafted for these trade arrows. At least one will go for the PA Arrow Trade.
(https://i.imgur.com/HM0RYpR.jpg)
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After the sinew wrap dried I sealed them with the pitch varnish.
This pic is before the pitch varnish was added...
(https://i.imgur.com/6GxU3dR.jpg?1)
...and after sealing...
(https://i.imgur.com/Oy9rXyk.jpg)
...once the sinew wrap sealing dries it's time to seal the shafts. I'm using the pitch varnish for this also. I'm only sealing the sourwood shoots but not the hill cane. I don't remove the rind or sand the nodes on my hill cane arrows. The rind is a very good sealer on it's on. I do seal the inside of the self nocks.
Here are the 3 sourwood shafts hanging to dry after sealing.
(https://i.imgur.com/CneLqzk.jpg?1)
Next step is fletching. I've already selected the feathers and will use a couple of different fletching styles on these arrows.
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Lookin good Pat 👍🙂
DBar
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Thanks Bill. Good to see you back around. :OK
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Nice build Pat. Thanks for sharing the pitch varnish recipe.
Bjrogg
PS I agree. Nice to see you around here again Bill
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Maybe Bill will post a few pics of his incredible arrows. ;)
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thanks Pat and BJ,
Missed ya Pat at the Classic this year, and BJ hope to see ya at Elm Hall.
Havent made many arrows or bows lately but hope to get back into it real soon.
DBar
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Hopefully I'll be at the Classic next spring, Bill. :OK
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Good looking work Pat.I was wondering though.Do you test shoot those shafts with a field tip before mounting the stone point?
Hope to see you at Mo Jam too Bill.
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Ed, I have a large rubberized foam target butt I shoot them into. It doesn't seem to affect the point or the hafting.
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Yes I suppose it does'nt.It is'nt what I asked about though.
I've tested stone points into a plain old dirt pile too before using.Does'nt harm the stone point either.
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Ed, I have used field points first to test shoot and cane arrows but I didn't on these. I do taper the end like for glue on points and cut the slot into that to fit the point to.
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nice arrows Pat.. I always foreshaft my cane.. I put a point on foreshaft to spin it to line everything up before I haft my point.. those look great.. gut
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Got the fletching added. I use fletch tape to hold the feathers to the shaft and add a sinew wrap fore and aft. On the feathers I leave about 1/4" stripped feather at each end of each feather and after using fletch tape to hold the feather to the shaft I wrap over these bare tabs with sinew and also a sinew wrap just below the nock. Next I will seal these wraps with pitch varnish.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ir6x2Io.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mqeQipO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m3aKNtj.jpg)
Gut, I've made a few fore shafted arrows but for me it is just one (or more) step that I don't think is necessary. I do appreciate the historical value and the talent it takes to mate an arrow and fore shaft so don't take me the wrong way. I've seen your arrows and they are worthy candidates.
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thanks Pat.. have you ever built a backwards cane arrow?.. where the tapered end is point end... I watched a video by Thad Beckam on just that.. they seemed to fly good too... no foreshaft either.. gut
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I've seen it but haven't tried it. If Thad did it it must work although it seems backwards to me with the heavier end at the rear.
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yeah it took him a few tries to get the length right for his bow.. it finally worked and he was satisfied that it could be done.. eliminates need to foreshaft which I guess is really not a need anyway.. ferret used to plug his cane... but to me.. the added weight of the foreshaft and length really help the already light shaft of cane and the FOC for better arrow flight.. I can tell by how my arrows fly.. Thad also driills out his cane now with a flint drill so all his foreshafts can be interchangeable... I haven't gotten that far yet..lol... but it is definitely a cool idea... so now he can make up a bunch of foreshafts.. with bird point , blunt, or hunting points and just pop on a new foreshaft and walla... in this video he makes a homemade turkey decoy and arrows a wild turkey with all primitive gear.. that was an accomplishment itself and to get it on video too... gut
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Excellent job on fletching Pat, I have been trying to guess which one is going out on trade...Man I love that white stone!!!
Don