Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Oldvol on July 14, 2021, 03:49:51 pm
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Pic of belly profile showing board grain.
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Bow after recurving with tip overlays.
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Tillering the bow.
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Looks pretty good so far.
I think in the first pic you are showing the back profile. ;)
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Bow at low brace.
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Right limb is 1 inch longer than left and is bending more than left limb. Left limb has 1/16 inch more set than right. Set is currently 1/2 inch on left. There is 1/8 positive tiller on right limb(top) at low brace. String alignment is good. Currently drawing 40# @ 19 inches. How will the presence of heart wood in the board affect the bow? Comments are most welcome.
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Have you designated the top/bottom limb yet? As you get closer to full draw use the strongest, least strained limb as the bottom. Full draw is where you see proper tiller but don't try to get there too fast.
Hickory sapwood and heartwood have slightly different characteristics with the heartwood being a bit more brittle but I don't think you need to worry about that. Just be sure that all of your corners are rounded so you reduce the chance of splinters lifting.
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Thanks PatB. I intend for the right limb to be the top since the handle is offset 1” toward the bottom as per Clay Hayes recommends. He also states the upper limb should have about 1/8” positive tiller. How does the tiller look?
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Like I said, you can only tell proper tiller at full draw. Your brace pic looks pretty good so far and the partially drawn pic looks pretty good too.
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Thank you.
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In my opinion lower/top limbs should always be worked out from the start.
Your tiller looks very good so far. Seeing as you started out with a straight board - keep a really good eye on the set the bow takes. Tiller to keep it so that there is no set in the inner limbs, a fraction at mid limb and the rest out to the tips. If you watch the set and tiller accordingly you can asses tiller on any bow! It is very handy to trace the backs side profile befoire any set shows up so that you have a reference to check the bow against. Check it straight after exercising and unbracing.
Now pull it to target weight (braced) and lets see the bend :)
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Thanks bownarra. So far the set is just as you recommend. Hope I can keep it that way. Got to order a string so I can get it to full brace.
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It's not too hard to make your own strings and cheaper.
Yes set is the best teacher - it is never wrong!
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Finished tillering. Draws 40# @ 26”. Still have to shape handle and tips. Bow currently has 1 1/8” set, but it is very hot and humid in TN. Would like to cut an arrow shelf in the handle. Would I be in danger of ruining (breaking) the bow?
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I don't think cutting a shelf will cause you any problems unless you go for centershot and cut halfway through. I usually cut one about 3/8" deep.
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What Eric said. Just don't cut the shelf in too far and you should be ok.
Good job on your bow and yes, this hot, sticky, humid weather isn't optimum for bow building. Make sure you post your bow when it's finished.
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I glue on a rest as well to fil out the shelf.
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Thank you for the feedback. Interesting concept Eric. I may try that. What are the initial dimensions of the glue on shelf?
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I make the shelf to fit the riser, my handle size my vary, I don't have any dimensions, I just grab what ever figured wood scrap I have available.
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I did something similaqr to Eric by adding a leather shelf along side the shallow shelf I had cut into this bow many years ago. I don't cut in shelves anymore but I do still add a shelf sometimes...
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(https://i.imgur.com/XaGnIqs.jpg)
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Thanks to both of you. It gives me food for thought.