Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Jakesnyder on August 11, 2021, 09:56:52 pm
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What is the skinniest you can go with a handle? Is 3/4" too narrow? Thanks
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i think 3/4" is workable. Id say that once the handle becomes uncomfortable, its too thin. (within reason obviously, and accounting for wheather or not its a bend in handle or stiff handle)
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I personally like a 3/4” handle.
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How much depth in that area?
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1.5" deep
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What is the skinniest you can go with a handle? Is 3/4" too narrow? Thanks
1.5" deep
Is your question about the minimum structure you can have or about how narrow becomes uncomfortable?
Mark
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How skinny it can be and still have structural integrity
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How skinny it can be and still have structural integrity
Ok. What kind of draw weight and is it a rigid handle or bendy?
Mark
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Ridged handle and 60lbs
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Why would you make it only 3/4" wide? You could easily leave more meat on the opposite side of the arrow pass, and the fade. Just have an offset grip, to allow the same distance on the side with the, arrow pass as if it was 3/4". You get all the benefits without any potential weakness.
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I usually cut to the center of the bow for a shelf if the stave allows . Usually leaving 1/1-4 to 1/1-2 leaving 5/8 to 3/4 at the window. I hate calling it that but it is a window of a sort. That should take care of the 60# bow.
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Ridged handle and 60lbs
I wouldn't be brave enough to only leave 3/4" on a 60lb bow. I'm with Hamish, I would build out the side where the arrow pass/shelf/window is cut in (assuming you are talking about cutting in a shelf) to leave more wood. For a 60lb bow with only 1.5" thickness there I wouldn't reduce it much below 7/8"-1".
Mark
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Mark look at the scales weight. That’s a 100 pound long bow handle. It’s bigger than the pic appears. But still only 1-3/4 thick at the throat . Guessing. Maybe 1” wide . But it’s Osage. Its going to send a arrow a long ways. Stay tuned.😁😁😁😁
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Fifty pound bow
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Fifty pound bow
Looks like OP has his answer in this pic. There is nothing like experience to know where the margins are.
Mark
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General rule of thumb about this is twice the depth as the width.Personally I've never had a handle brake even with bows up to 65#'s going as narrow as 5/8" wide arrow pass and at least 1 and 1/4" depth.
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Fifty pound bow
Looks like OP has his answer in this pic. There is nothing like experience to know where the margins are.
Mark
What? No math? ;)
What would be the minimum dimensions for absolutely no bending movement there?
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What? No math? ;)
Not when Arvin already has the answer in hand... :D
I'm too busy at the moment to run numbers for OP, but it would be the more precise way to do it. The calcs are basic structural work and not too involved.
What would be the minimum dimensions for absolutely no bending movement there?
No matter how thick you make it there is always deflection under load, it just gets hard to see or measure. You have to define how large the deflections can be and still be considered 'stiff'. This is something that needs calculation if you want a precise answer, but I would say making the handle area 2.5-3x as thick as the base of the limb will get you in the ballpark.
Mark
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Narrowest I’ve gone was 3/4” wide and 1.5” deep on a 70# recurve. No issues at all and felt just fine to my hands. I’ve started to settle on 7/8” before the handle wrap and about 1 3/8” deep with a straight grip and 1 1/2” deep with a contoured grip.
Kyle
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Bows can and do fail if you go too narrow.....There is a reason most centershot or past glass bows have I-beams in the risers. A sight window is almost the definition of a stress riser.
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This does not need the be overthought. Everyone has been right. If you are worried just leave more meet on the opposite side of the window and put a small twist in the handle. This will also let you have a lower brace if you like.