Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => At the Forge => Topic started by: Fox on February 14, 2022, 12:35:55 pm
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I usually Normalize 3 times, by heating past critical then letting air cool, then harden in canola oil, then temper.
I got some 1084 and 1075. Can I use this same process or should I anneal too? should I get dry ice for cryo? is the benefits from that minimal with 1084? im finding lots of conflicting info as always on the internet.
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No experience with cryo, but I just normalize a few times before hardening a forged blade. It seems to lessen warps and cracks for me. If doing stock removal with good bought steel of a known quality, I don’t normalize, I just go straight to the quench. The steel I buy is annealed soft and hasn’t been heated repeatedly and beat on. I’ve never had any issue doing it that way. A piece of rail clip or leaf spring that you’ve had to beat to death definitely benefits from normalization
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No experience with cryo, but I just normalize a few times before hardening a forged blade. It seems to lessen warps and cracks for me. If doing stock removal with good bought steel of a known quality, I don’t normalize, I just go straight to the quench. The steel I buy is annealed soft and hasn’t been heated repeatedly and beat on. I’ve never had any issue doing it that way. A piece of rail clip or leaf spring that you’ve had to beat to death definitely benefits from normalization
I do exactly the same.
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Okay thanks guys
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You can find all the info you need for quench and temper at Alpha Knife Supply just look up the steel your using and it's all there.
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You can find all the info you need for quench and temper at Alpha Knife Supply just look up the steel your using and it's all there.
Thats where I ordered from TRiggs from Your advice earlier, they are a super nice company... There isn't heat treat info on the 1084 yet though..
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Do you know if it is hot or cold rolled? I'm learning there can be a substantial difference.
On second thought, it may not matter since you are repeatedly heating it so high.
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You won't see much of a difference with cryo on simple carbons like 1084, 1075, and 1095. Best bet for a harder blade would be to use quench oils like parks 50 or AAA from Jantz. Thermocycling or normalizing should be in increments of hotter to colder than non-megnetic for quench. Theres an app for a cell phone simply called "heat treat". You can plug in the steel type then base temperature off of color with a color chart on Google and it'll get you pretty close. Hopefully this helps!
Jarrod
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Thanks! that is helpful