Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: M2A on August 10, 2022, 12:43:14 am
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I'm fortunate to be able to get my hands on enough locust to keep me busy. Osage on the other hand is a rare find. However about a month ago I was gifted a few logs harvested from a construction site. Been spending most of my free time processing it, not straight or clear but making the best of what I got.
The outer 30 years or so the rings in some of it is very tight. For the most part I just split it off and/or worked around it to get to better rings. After taking a nice belly split from the stave below I set this piece in the firewood pile but just could not get myself to cut it up. Nice reflex in the handle area with plenty of width and length. Ring thickness is pretty consistent from end to end. I have tried locust with similar rings in the past and it could not handle the compression.
I have read on here before that some folks speak highly of tight ringed osage, I have not worked enough osage to know. So my question is, Should I spend the time to remove bark and sap wood and save or do you think the rings are too thin? If I try this piece in the future I would back with rawhide or sinew. What would you do?
Thanks, Mike
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52274681127_fe27e17468_w.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/158435722@N02/ye11T41xD7)IMG_4976 (https://www.flickr.com/gp/158435722@N02/ye11T41xD7) by Mike Allridge (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158435722@N02/), on Flickr
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If you don't want it send it to me :)
My very best osage bows have been from tight ringed wood. Easy enough to chase a good ring. Chase an EARLYWOOD ring first, then clean that up to reveal your chosen latewood ring. Of course at this point you only need some sandpaper and a scraper.
I wouldn't bother with the rawhide or sinew for protections sake. No need :)
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Split it in half and send me one half too. You have to be careful with thin ringed osage but it makes great bows. If you have trouble getting a clean back ring(without violations) just add a rawhide backing to it. That looks like some pretty good stuff to me. :OK
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I would shoot for one of the darker rings. I bet the belly split is a really nice piece.
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That's a lot of early wood. Thin rings don't bother me. That ratio does a little bit though.
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I’ve made couple backed Osage bows out of stuff like that. They ended up being fine shooters and had a cool pattern on the belly when finished. That stave does have a lot of early wood, but go for it if Osage is rare for you.
If it were mine, I’d pick that dark ring about 4 rings into the heartwood, carefully chase to one or two rings above the desired ring with a draw knife and finish the last couple with a scraper. Then, do any needed heat corrections, back it with deer or goat rawhide and proceed like any other Osage.
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If I were worried about the ring integrity....rough it out a 1/4" wider than 'normal'.
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I had a piece of Osage with similar rings blow up on me and from what we could tell, that was the only reason it exploded. Still think it’s worth a try.
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Thanks for the input fellas! I guess I didn't word my question proper like and Osage Outlaw Made the point that concerns me. I don't see thin ringed ring porous wood with good early/late ratio as a norm. That said its encouraging input from you all. So I'll put it in line to process into a stave.
Pat, it would be nice to split and get 2 but I think after I get the sides cleaned up I'll loose that option. Timbo, yeah I split the whole piece out with saving the belly split in mind, its nice. Good to hear you had success with wood like this organic archer, thats what I had hoped to hear from someone. I'll will be starting wide on this piece bownarra, but going let it season proper first. Thanks again for all the input guys.
Mike
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I'd be interested to know a best guess on why that bow failed Ryan. Compression or tension? Its been my experience that BL is more weak in compression with similar rings. Im along way off from working this piece but your info could influence the design.
Mike
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I have built reflex bows from wood that looked like that. One good layer of sinew on the back never failed me even with a violated back.
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Your best rings are on the bottom. So, flip it, and chase one of those rings. Make an upside down bow. It will work and look great :)
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Thanks for the input Bassman and sleek. I do think that the ability for this piece to handle compression will be its weak link. I think a sinew backing would help in that aspect. I considered flipping it around sleek, I'd like to try that one day that would be a cool project. Just dont think it would be the best for this piece. But sure do like the idea.
Mike
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I've chased a lot of rings but I don't think I could chase a ring on that osage.
I would remove bark and sapwood and go with the first heartwood ring.
I would also leave that bow a little wider say 1.5 inches to account for the thin rings or leave it a little longer.
I am not a fan of thin rings staves but use what you have and learn to adapt.
Jawge
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I had a piece of osage with rings too thin to effectively follow.....so I flattened the back and backed it with bamboo and it ended up being one of the best bows I have made. I wouldn't hesitate to back it with boo or hickory and make whatever you want.
Matt
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Thanks Jawge. I figure to start with white wood dimensions and adjust from there.
Thats encouraging to hear Matt. Maybe it's not be poor in compression as I was figuring.
Thanks for all the responses folks. Hope to have time tonight to remove bark and sapwood and get it put in the rafters to season. Maybe pick back up on this piece next year.
Mike
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Once you remove the bark, M2A, osage can check if it is not dry. Some bowyers shellac the back only.
I prefer to get the back ready to be a bow back...that is...one ring and sanded. Then, I give it a coat of spar urethane spray.
Jawge