Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: sleek on April 15, 2023, 11:11:53 am
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I need to make the tightest bend I can for a recurve. What is the tightest yall can make and how do you do it? Currently I just boil and strap it to a form and use a heat gun to set the bend. For this bow I want to make, I need it to almost be a kink. Anyone else have methods they use that would be any help?
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Sleek! I'd say the key is making them thin enough. How thick/thin do they really need to be? 3/8" maybe? And If still splinters lifting, patch it again. That would be my bet. Cheers
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For any tight bends in timber, use a tension strip of very thin steel, or even a fg backing strip to stop the belly side from splintering.
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I would agree with both Simk and hamish on this. The more extreme bends I’ve done successfully on Osage has been with good quality thick ringed wood and thinned down like Simk says. On my hickory I go a tad thicker for bending recurves but still works. I’ve never used a metal band on my Osage yet but I have with my hickory and hhb. I find that white woods tend to splinter up more then others. I just steam my Osage for 30-40 mins then right to the form. I make sure I keep to a single growth ring on belly. I’ve done nice bends on thinner ringed Osage but have had some fail and crack on me.
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On Osage I would do the bend in three heat sessions letting it cool in between. What you trying Kevin ? Bending a hard ball radius?🤠
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
Great idea Pat. It’s a great strong solution to get some serious recurve. The v notch glue up is quite strong.
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
Great idea Pat. It’s a great strong solution to get some serious recurve. The v notch glue up is quite strong.
I wish I could be convinced of the v notches. I had one delaminate today that I made yesterday with tight bond 2. Also, I'm trying to make them light as possible and I don't think Siyahs give you any weight advantage? But... I reserve the right to be wrong there.
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I also boil and set with dry heat. Will try and attatch picture of form I have nailed to my bench with finished bow tip that was bent on it. This is the size curve I like best, short and quick.
Have tried the big curves but not a fan.
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
Great idea Pat. It’s a great strong solution to get some serious recurve. The v notch glue up is quite strong.
I wish I could be convinced of the v notches. I had one delaminate today that I made yesterday with tight bond 2. Also, I'm trying to make them light as possible and I don't think Siyahs give you any weight advantage? But... I reserve the right to be wrong there.
Not to knock tb glue as I use it for lots of things. I just don’t use it for my v notches. I use good quality hide glue or epoxy 2 part resin depending on the build. For more primitive natural material builds I’ll stick with hide glue. I’ve never had one come apart yet. I make a good 3.5”-4” long v notch and groove up the mating wood surfaces. The hide glue is super good in these scenarios. For a little insurance you could use binding thread around it even if concerned about the joint. Ea 40 has worked for me in the past with v notches. I’ve heard tell guys using other glue successfully like west systems and system three g2 to name a couple. Best of luck to ya on your decision.
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I think its not the best glue for that,,
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I think its not the best glue for that,,
Well, I just glued a bamboo backing to it and plan to put a belly laminate on it to double reinforce it. Hopefully that will lock it place. For future reference, what glue do you feel would be best?
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
Great idea Pat. It’s a great strong solution to get some serious recurve. The v notch glue up is quite strong.
I wish I could be convinced of the v notches. I had one delaminate today that I made yesterday with tight bond 2. Also, I'm trying to make them light as possible and I don't think Siyahs give you any weight advantage? But... I reserve the right to be wrong there.
Not to knock tb glue as I use it for lots of things. I just don’t use it for my v notches. I use good quality hide glue or epoxy 2 part resin depending on the build. For more primitive natural material builds I’ll stick with hide glue. I’ve never had one come apart yet. I make a good 3.5”-4” long v notch and groove up the mating wood surfaces. The hide glue is super good in these scenarios. For a little insurance you could use binding thread around it even if concerned about the joint. Ea 40 has worked for me in the past with v notches. I’ve heard tell guys using other glue successfully like west systems and system three g2 to name a couple. Best of luck to ya on your decision.
How long do you let the hide glue set? Where is EA40 found?
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
My first thought was this. Sounds like you are working on it and have lots of good advice already. Look forward to seeing what you are up to sleek.
Bjrogg
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Another option is to kerf the limb so you are bending 3 thin pieces of wood instead of one thick one. Cut a slice separating back from belly and cut a shim to fill in the material removed. Slip the shin in and heat bend it all in one go. Once it sets pull the shim, apply a healthy coat of glue and reinsert. Then back in the form so it’ll be sure to set into position.if the layers are thin enough you could probably get away with not even heating it and let the glue hold it in place.
Kyle
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This is another option I have thought about trying but never got around to it yet.
If you can see the limb recurve, tip, mechanical advantage and string.
My drafting skills are a little crude but maybe you can get the jest of it
Bjrogg
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Another option is to kerf the limb so you are bending 3 thin pieces of wood instead of one thick one. Cut a slice separating back from belly and cut a shim to fill in the material removed. Slip the shin in and heat bend it all in one go. Once it sets pull the shim, apply a healthy coat of glue and reinsert. Then back in the form so it’ll be sure to set into position.if the layers are thin enough you could probably get away with not even heating it and let the glue hold it in place.
Kyle
Kyle, that's absolutely brilliant. I'll give that a go on a test piece.
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If you want a very dramatic bend on any wood bow one option would be to add a saiyah (sp) to each limb tip like on an Asiatic horn bow.
My first thought was this. Sounds like you are working on it and have lots of good advice already. Look forward to seeing what you are up to sleek.
Bjrogg
Thanks Bj. As usual, I am up to some something. I'm trying to break records employing unusual methods.
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I just finished up a bow with a tip similar to this. See if this helps. These are just steam bent hickory but it could be more extreme depending on your radius. The last 2 pics are of a v notch style tip siyah I mentioned earlier. The last pic is before glue up of belly boo lam was done. Have a look see if it helps your decision. Best of luck.
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Many years ago Brad Merkel (Littletree) used boiling water to make radical (120° ) recurve bends in his bow tips. These extreme bends usually cause a splinter to lift on the belly but he did them while he still had wood to spare on the tips. A metal strap would help prevent that as well. Barefoot Tom has one of the last bows that Brad made. The short bends were so curved that he would hang his strung bow by the tip. They looked something like this...
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Cool bends but wasted mass. Just an opinion.
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Many years ago Brad Merkel (Littletree) used boiling water to make radical (120° ) recurve bends in his bow tips. These extreme bends usually cause a splinter to lift on the belly but he did them while he still had wood to spare on the tips. A metal strap would help prevent that as well. Barefoot Tom has one of the last bows that Brad made. The short bends were so curved that he would hang his strung bow by the tip. They looked something like this...
Wow! That is seriously extreme! I’m not sure what mechanical advantage it offers, …but DANG!
OneBow
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The OP asked for a radical bend...he didn't ask about the non working mass. Brad's bows were cool and being able to hang your string bow was an added bit of fun. It may have cost some speed, but they were fast enough and shot well. :OK