Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Badger on April 23, 2023, 12:38:48 am
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Not sure if people are already doing this or not. Maybe I just haven't seen it. Anyway if you run a thin line down a stave where you want it to split, just remove the bark with a draw knife maybe about 1/2" wide. It will split itself almost perfectly. Never tried this on a big log but I know it works up to about 4".
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Never tried that... I find some logs splits well despite knots and some just doesn't want to run straight. I can't remember if its better to start at the thick end or thin end either. Maybe that's why I try and saw if possible ::)
Del
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Are you referring to kerfing with a circular saw before splitting? If so it works well, even on large sections. Dean Torges book mentions it. Even so he splits the log into 1/4's, with wedges first. If the log isn't straight grained, the staves won't be following the grain.
If you have a straight grained log, but no bandsaw big enough to break it down, then kerfing is a good way to maximise the amount of staves you can harvest.
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Thatīs a good trick Iīve heard of but never tried.
I usually start splitting logs from the smaller end on smaller diameter logs, think it helps guiding the split where itīs most critical.
I often harvest my elm in august/ september, but I recently cut a bunch of elm in March while it was still frozen outside. And I was amazed how clean it split compared to summer. Like the wood wasnīt interlocked in winter and I was able to split several really small elm saplings, 2-3 inches in perfect halves, with axes.
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So, Steve, does it encourage a controlled check where the bark is removed? Interesting idea.
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That makes sense. Wood has been described as having long fibers like spaghetti - the bark is holding those fibers in a way. Remove the bark in one area and it should split easier that way. I like it!
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So, Steve, does it encourage a controlled check where the bark is removed? Interesting idea.
yes it just creates a controlled drying check
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Thatīs a good trick Iīve heard of but n
I don't know if it would work on elm or not, elm is very hard to split. Looks like you have found the ticket.
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I don't really know a lot about this because as I said I just got of stumbled on it. But I think the ideal way to use it would be to pick a spot in the middle of the log where you want to split it and just shave the bark from that one spot. Maybe 1/2" wide by two inches long or so. Each time it starts to check just go to the end of the check and create another shaved spot. This way you wouldn't have to worry about following the grain. I think it might give perfect clean splits. Useful on small logs where some precision is needed. Checking happens fairly rapidly in just a few days.
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Never heard of this method, Badger. I'd never even considered it. I must say I am intrigued.
I wonder with a large log, if you did the procedure 4 times, it would automatically split into quarters? This would be a good method if you cut a lot of osage at once, but didn't immediately have the time or energy to process it.
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If someone has a fresh cut log maybe we could do an online experiment build a long type thread in real time.
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Im definitely going to try this the next time I harvest some HHB.
If this works then I might even try pealing bark and cambium. Then maybe tape or something to keep area I want split to be. To keep sealer off back in that area. Give a couple coats and then take the tape off and let that area check.
Very interesting. I think you might be on to something Steve
Bjrogg
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itīs described in TBB 4 pg 27/28 under "curing kerf" as a way to split logs cleanly
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itīs described in TBB 4 pg 27/28 under "curing kerf" as a way to split logs cleanly
That is the only book I don't have and I am one of the authors in it. I think the method I am leaning toward is slightly different in that it would start in the middle of the log and a new spot to shave would not be selected until the split had started, so basically just following the original split to keep it real clean instead of just kerfing a straight line.
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Well Ill say you can teach old dogs new tricks! 🤠🤠🤠 cool Steve.
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Well Ill say you can teach old dogs new tricks! 🤠🤠🤠 cool Steve.
Not 100% sure it will work, I just kind of stumbled on it with some ocean spray.
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American hornbeam (bluebeech) is notorious for splitting the way it wants, and some times it is really bad. I kerf it with a chain saw, and also do that with elm. I have a nice size log of it right now in my basement that I have been putting off splitting. Can't get my chain saw started. Soon I will try the method mentioned above ,and see the results.
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Keep us posted, I would start in the center with only one scrape, if that spits go out to each end of that split and make another scrape.
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Well Steve I proved nothing. One end of the log had already split for about 6 inches, so I just went with that split with a series of wedges from one end to the other. I got it split in half with one half thicker than the other. I can get 2 bows from it, but it was a killer log to get split by hand with wedges. Tough, hard wood.