Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: LeightonM on August 05, 2023, 09:28:12 pm
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This stave is 68 inches. I'm hoping to make a deflex reflex out of it. You can see it has a fair amount of propeller twist in it. I think The hardest thing is going to be getting it straightened out and getting the reflex in it at the same time. If anyone has any ideas I'm open to them! This will probably progress rather slowly, but I'm hoping to end up around the 50# @ 29"
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Use a form, and belly heat treat, and clamp.
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What he said!
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Use a form and take your time. Do one limb at a time one spot at a time. The top limb shows what appears to be a prop twist and a bend to the right. I would be tempted to correct both of those issues at the same time with a form as was mentioned. I’ve done it in stages also depending on how bad the bends are. For example clamp to a form and firstly address the bends in both limbs to get string alignment then work on the prop twist next once straight. Best of luck with it.
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I would do some more floor tillering, to get the limbs flexing and a little thinner, and easier to heat straighten.
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Here’s a caul I made using a 2x12x12. I cut it in half length wise, and then cut the arched piece out of one of the 6’ pieces and screwed it to the other 2x12x6’ piece. I took the left over from the arched cut land screwed it to the back side for a straight caul. I can heat and clamp sideways and up and down at the same time, so can usually work on straightening, reflex, and propeller twist all at the same time.
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Here is one I straightened up a few months back..
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I personally like to do one limb at a time. I have several half cauls that have different shapes.
I like to do each tip. Recurve or whatever the shape of tips first. I usually steam if recurves. Then starting at tip I clamp my way up the limb. Using dry heat as I go and heat treating at the same time.
After I have both tips and limbs shaped I have a caul with a little reflex for shaping the center section of my bows. You could use one with deflex also.
This gives you a good chance to do a little straightening and removing propeller.
Sometimes I still need to tweak the alignment of my tips with a little dry heat.
Bjrogg
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Thanks for the input guys! I steamed the deflex into the handle area and recurve the tips. Now I just need to reflex the limbs and get her lined up. This is what it looks like now.
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Starting to look real interesting. (-P
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Good Job so far on an interesting project 👍
What I see tough is, that you induced way too much deflex. You should start wirh the tips at least 1- 2"ahead of your grip. This one will work but you give away lots of early draw weight and performance.
Jm2c
Cheers
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Will definitely be watching progress on this one. I’m curious as what your plans for a handle is? It looks like you removed the wood for the handle toget your deflex?
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Good Job so far on an interesting project 👍
What I see tough is, that you induced way too much deflex. You should start wirh the tips at least 1- 2"ahead of your grip. This one will work but you give away lots of early draw weight and performance.
Jm2c
Cheers
Agreed. +1 here for me. I would see about less deflex as was stated. Re heat the handle area to get your ideal deflex and glue on your handle to hold that shape if that makes sense. Best of luck.
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Looks like you got it all straightened out and a great start to an awesome bow. It’ll be awesome to see it have that profile at brace after you bend the reflex.
I’m curious to see how you build up the handle. Mostly the what are you gonna use for what look.
Kyle
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Good Job so far on an interesting project 👍
What I see tough is, that you induced way too much deflex. You should start wirh the tips at least 1- 2"ahead of your grip. This one will work but you give away lots of early draw weight and performance.
Jm2c
Cheers
Simk my plan is to reflex the rest of the limbs enough to get the tips to lay in front of the handle a couple of inches. We'll see :)
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Will definitely be watching progress on this one. I’m curious as what your plans for a handle is? It looks like you removed the wood for the handle toget your deflex?
Yes I decided to remove the handle so that it would bend easier. Not sure what I'll glue back on yet.
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Will definitely be watching progress on this one. I’m curious as what your plans for a handle is? It looks like you removed the wood for the handle toget your deflex?
Yes I decided to remove the handle so that it would bend easier. Not sure what I'll glue back on yet.
I’ve thought of but have not tried yet. But here is a pic for putting reflex or deflex in a handle riser.
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Probably should put a piece of wood on the belly side of the handle after he shim is installed.
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Probably should put a piece of wood on the belly side of the handle after he shim is installed.
I have experimentd with the shim-method Arvin but didnt become really happy with it. Nowadays I returned to just bending the deflex at fades....
Leighton, it can be tricky to fit in a piece of handle in a place like this. The most convenient method to me seems to just press and fit in a few lams. Looking forward to see your progress 👍
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Smik I thought I’d try one my glue on pieces nearly always pop off. Probably just me and my glue ups.
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I got the limbs reflexed. However in the process I think I over heated one area that had to move laterally and the belly cracked just above midlimb on the top limb. See attached picture. Is there any effective fix? Or have reduced this one to a light draw bow?
The profile isn't quite what I want. I think I'm going to deflex the handle some more. As it is the tips are about 5" ahead of the handle.
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Here is the profile as of now.
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If the back is not affected you could fill that crack with 2k and be fine. The 2k will handle compressipn easy but not tension on the back. Good luck!
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If the back is not affected you could fill that crack with 2k and be fine. The 2k will handle compressipn easy but not tension on the back. Good luck!
Ok thanks for the feedback. I'm not familiar with 2k however. What is it?
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2k = two part epoxy
Maybe someone else can suggest you a specific product. I'm not familiar with the us market.
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sometimes on a crazy piece of wood,, just heating enough to get a string on it,,, will give you the same performance as a more complicated design,, without the risk of cracking and breaking in the process,,
useing a straighter stave for the more complicated design ..
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Tell me what you think / see. It's pulled to about 20 inches approx 35#
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lookin' pretty darn cool!
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Great thread... some interesting heating, bending, wedging etc.
Lookin' good
Del
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I finally got this one finished up. She pull just about 40# @ 29", I was hoping for more like 48#. I had to wrap it with sinew at the shelf due to a check running off there. I finished it with paraffin. It has a really smooth draw and shot. I'll try to get a full draw picture soon.
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One at brace.
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Nice neat work.
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That’s a beautiful bow sir. That design allows the bow to have less stress and be more efficient doesn’t it.
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Looks good. Kind of reminds me of one of these. Bear Kodiak magnum.
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Here's the full draw.
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Very cool!
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Very nice bow, Leighton. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. :OK
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Wow, lovely full draw pic :)
Del
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Looks great. Very similar to the profile of many of Marc’s bows. Well done!