Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Huaco on July 17, 2008, 04:21:43 pm
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How long should a 72"x2"x2" osage stave be aged before crafting into a self bow? it was cut/split/sealed a month ago. Are there any ways to assist the aging process?
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To assist the aging process--no--only time can do that, hence the word "aging". To dry it--of course you can hot box it, put it in your car with the windows up in the sun, kiln dry it, whatever. But I don't recommend that. I don't feel that wood likes to be rushed and I believe most people will tell you to age it, especially with it being osage. Also, be careful because applying too much heat at one time to a heartwood that's not been cut all that long ago can make it crack and split lengthwise.
I KNOW it's hard to resist, but brother you really need to let it sit at least a couple more months. Some people age osage for 2 years or more, and a lot of bowyers way more experienced than me will tell you it turns out a lot better that way.
~~Matt
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I agree that wood should be aged(cured) for at least a year...years would be even better. You can however fast dry bow wood and get good results. A case in point is my osage static recurve I just posted..."TEASE, Cherry Bark Backed Osage Recurve". That wood was cut 5/5/08. It feels dry and the bow turned out well but I can tell, by its resistance, that it needs more curing time. Pat
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Seems I read in one of the bowyer bibles it should dry one year for every inch to the center of the stave. ie.... 2 inch thickness would take 1 year!!
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Rough out the bow and seal the whole thing,and then I would wait at least a year. :) with
Osage ,Longer if you can stand it.White wood you can get away with a few months after
being roughted out. :)
Pappy
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Huaco, all good advice here about letting it cure. It will be worth the wait. If your wanting to make a bow now try getting a white wood like hickory or ash or even a red oak board from the the lumber yard to fill the void until your osage is ready. Good luck.
Tracy
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Thanx for all the great info fellas. I think I will let this one sit for quite a while. I am pretty busy now anyway... trying to start another project is not probably smart... glad to hear I can let it sit for a while!
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Excellent choice of words, Tracy. "Fill the void". :D
-Matt
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Wood dries at about the rate of 1" per year in 50% RH. So you have few years to go using that method.
Reduce the wood to bow dimensions, seal the ends and back with shellac, clamp to a 4X6 and you'll dry it in a few months.
Osage flatbow dimensions: http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/05/osage-flat-bow-dimensions.html (http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/05/osage-flat-bow-dimensions.html)
More thoughts on wood seasoning Relative Humidity: http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2007/02/relative-humidity-and-selfbows.html (http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2007/02/relative-humidity-and-selfbows.html)
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I have plenty of dry wood. I haven't made up my mind so I have no dog in the fight. I've had no real reason to force dry wood other than reducing it to near bow dims and letting it dry perhaps with an assist from a stovepipe dryer. However, the proponents in the force dry camp say there is no reason to let wood cure over time. None. :) Jawge
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The Force Dry Camp is where I park my RV. ;D
Seriously, I've read that some NA bowyers will shoot green wood and re-tiller as it ages. I do this also.
Something has hasn't been mentioned yet.....it's been shown that stressing wood when it's green will make for a longer lasting bow than one that is stressed after it has dried (or "cured"). However, you sacrifice speed.
If you want speed....wait a year (or more). If you want endurance...go ahead and start on that bow in a couple months.
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Jawge, I'm in the same boat as you. I tend to let the wood dry over time by default. I work slow enough to ensure long drying times! ;D