Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: JW_Halverson on September 29, 2008, 08:01:59 pm
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What do YOU use for arrow finish and why? Do you paint it on, or use diptubes, and if so, what do you use to thin the finish? I realize I am really stirring the pot (>:D), but I am interested in something other than the usual 3 coats of "Polly-you're-insane" that I wipe on.
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spray "poly you're insane.......which is probably not as cost effecient :-\
Zander
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mostly i use linseed oil, applied with a paint brush several times or embrued in.
why? well, it's natural, pure (no toxic ingredients, no ingredients at all; i too feed my chessie with it), protects efficiently against moisture and leaves no glossy surface. besides, it shades the wood and brings out the grain slightly. it can be lacquered over for cresting, glued on with either fletching tape (sorry :-[ ) or any glue. you can apply tung oil or any hard oil for finishing either.
it's traditional, cheap - almost perfect.
mho.
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I use pure tung oil on everything...because it's easy.
As far as the "best" finish....most woodworkers (that I know) use spray poly. If I knew beforehand that the arrow was going to be seriously abused, I would definitely spray two or more coats of lacquer or poly on it.
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My two favorites after years of experimenting are Tru-oil or bear grease, depending on how primitive I want them. I've been really impressed with the Tru-oil (several thin coats) for moisture resistance and toughness-the bear grease works great too. I've heard that two-ton epoxy thinned with acetone or denatured alchohol is a bulletproof finish, but haven't tried it yet.
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On cedar arrows I would dip in water based poly. With hardwood shoot arrows I have used Tru-Oil, bear fat and pine pitch varnish. On cane arrows I don't use a finish because I leave the rind on. Pat
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has anybody used lard as a finish or sealer??? you know like land o lakes lard... somewhere i heard or read that primitive arrows and some bows were coated with animal fat as a protective sealer and i was wondering if land o lakes lard would work????
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Lard is pig fat. It should work just fine. One of my hunting bows for this year is a yew selfbow and bear fat is what I used for a finish. I have noticed it gets a tad bit limp during very humid days. Pat
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I have just tried wattle (acacia) pitch as a varnish and it seems good and can be mixed with stains such as red ochre (comes out orangey though), don't know how long it will last but I will try solvents such as alcohol which is reasonably primitive ;D as well as melting in water. Does anyone know of natural additives to make it harder/waterproof as a protective finish?
This is testing for future application on POC and hardwood shafts. I leave bamboo as is.
For the less primitive hardwood arrows and previous POC shafts I have always painted and poly'd, but given that it still scratches off easily so I am moving to natural finishes.
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For those of you using fats/greases, I would have to guessing you apply it AFTER fletching?
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Yeah, if I'm using Tru-oil or poly I finish the shafts before fletching, usually do it afterwards with grease. Have done it beforehand, though-especially with two-fletch Eastern Woodland arrows. No glue involved there.
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For my own primitive arrows: at least three coats of pine varnish, followed by a surface polish of beeswax/pine resin blend.
On modern traditional cane and wood arrows: five or six coats of Helmsman spar urethane.
Neil
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I stain them the color I want and then dip them in gasket lacquer. Each dip is about 10 grains of wt. added which is helpful when you are trying to match arrows.
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For quickie target arras I use Gasket Laquer. You can dip a doz with 4 coats in about 20 mins. For my semi primitive arras I use Waterlox. It's a tung oil blend. You can hand rub it so your arras don't look shiny. It seems to keep moisture absorbtion to a minimum.
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The fat I cut off a deer. It takes lots of repeated coats over time, but it's the easiest I have on hand, and is fine with heat straightenning or scraping (respining).
I was told recently to try poly urethane though, but I have yet to try it.
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I use several different finishes on my arrows,depending on what I need.
For example;
If the set I'm working on comes in too light,and i'm talking over a 100 grains,but has the proper spine ,I'll dip them in thinned paint(regular old oil base paint thinned with paint thinner so that it runs off the shaft quickly) to increase the weight.I have a set of switchcane going right now that I'll dip to get the weight up.They have a 60# spine,but only weigh around 300 grains,Even with a 175 grain tradepoint,I'll only end up with a 475 grain arrow.After each dip,(wait till dry),I'll weigh it and repeat till I get in the 630 grain range.Be sure to check it ,because paint will weight it up quick.
If no weight is needed,I'll put a few coats of tru-oil,or,a water based poly that wipes on and dries in minutes.Or,
Spar varnish,one coat,just to add a little weight .
On cane,you can sand and finish the rind just for fletching,and leave the rind on the rest of the shaft,and your done.I know there are a couple more ,but all I can think of,(it's been a long day),but ,hope this helps. God Bless