Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: YewArcher on October 09, 2008, 03:39:29 pm
-
I have been asked allot in the past how I do my recurves. I have finnaly remebered to take som pics of my jig. I first boil my tips for 1 hour. This really makes them pliable and soft. I then clamp them to one of my jigs. I have 6 differnt jigs for differt styles of recurves. Static, Slight recurves like the Cayuga indinas used, Tab nocks for West coast etc.......The one shhown here is my jig for small recurve tips as I do on my 5 curves bows.
Note the metal strap to keep belly from splintering.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6416.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6415.jpg)
Note the lenght of the jig to help with alingment of tips:
Espically helpfull when working with snakey or twisted wood.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6417.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6414.jpg)
Sorry that was so long in the wait for all of you who have asked and Pm'd.
Please feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Steve
-
Cool! And I see you have at least two double curves in progress. ;D
-
Jack, Its one of my favorite bow styles. I have 2 roughed out there, another on my jig in the shop and 3 more curing in sinew and the Blackfoot Yew that is laying there awaiting my porcupine quill work that i am doing right now. Thats what that ermine is doing on the lantern. He is going on that bow. I really dig the double curve bows.
Steve
-
The Blackfoot yew wouldn't happen to have a garter snake skin to cover the sinew, would it? I'd like to do one of those myself if I could find the right snake. :-\
-
It sure does not. I had to substitute as I could not find any. Other then that it has all the correct materials. I will post it on a thred when I get it done in the enxt few days.
Steve
-
I noticed you left your limbs full width the entire length. I'm guessing this helps with being able to remove propellor and straightening to align the tips with the handle?
Thanks for posting!
-
Greg,
I leave them full width until after I get the recurves done. It really helps to keep the limb from twisting in the jig while you are bending it. It also helps to ge the string to track if you have a bit of wiggle room. And it also helps to keep splinters down. You want the belly on one growth ring when you make your bend. And last but not least when the ends are tapered they will tend to splinter more easily.
Hope that helps,
Steve
-
After boiling and recurving the tips how long do you let the wood dry? I'll be trying your method soon - Matt
-
I let them dry and cool for 8 hours before taking them off. I wait 24 hours prior to doing any tillering.
Steve
-
yewarcher, have you ever put a little Downey Fabric Softener in the water you boil in? You night find you could reduce the boil time and get easier bends. Some of the camoe builders and snowshoe makers 'way up North use it and like it. piper
-
Piper,
Read that in a woodworking mag, they said the softner really helps. Question is does it have any negetive effects in a bow?
Brian
-
Well, here's my two cents worth.......if you talk to real boatbuilders, they STEAM wood to bend it. It gets hotter and the LIGNIN doesn't soak out or degrade. If bowmakers MUST boil the wood, then boil it for the shortest time possible.
My best advice would be to get some good instructions on steaming and bending boat/canoe ribs and transfer what works to bowmaking. If you look at your water after you boil for an hour, it is probably a nice, yellow brown. That is the lignin from the wood and it is the lignin that holds the fibers together. Personally, I'd rather have it stay in the wood. But, I'm not up to building bent bows yet......
I do, however, bend lots of wood when making violins, Cellos and mandolins and I spray them with water, and bend fast and HOT with a good compression back strap. But, the wood is thinner, that's for sure.
piper
-
lol.... ::)
Well, I can only tell you what works from EXPERIENCE in doing the act not in reading about it and talking to others about bending wood for other aplications.
Steve
-
Here is the final bend. You see that it bounces back a tad after cooling.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6418.jpg)
Notice the steam line on that limb. This is the area that was under the foil tent to get the steam and heat. The bow was twisted in real bad propeller and had a vicious dog leg as well. It would not have made a straight bow let alone a recurve as twisted and gnarly as it was. As you can see, it is now real straight. I fins that boiling a whole limb at once is a great way to get rid of propeller twist. With a jig like this you can recurve and remove it all at once.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6419.jpg)
Here are 2 bows done on the same jig. One is ash and one in osage:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6420.jpg)
Its real important to tiller a recurce to at least brace height prior to adding sinew or any other backing. This ensures that the string tracks correctly. Its very hard to make heat corections after a bow is sinewed. I will probably tiller these this weekend and then sinew them later next week. I will post them when complete.
There are lots of differnt ways and techniques to recurve. Just like sinewing everyone has there own way and there own thoughts on right or wrong. This way works for me and its the way I do it. I hope it has helped.
Steve
-
Steve,
When you're about to put the bow in the jig after boiling, how do you go about ensuring the banding has tension forcing it against the belly surface when you rotate the bow down prior to clamping?
Thanks! ;)
-
Steve, i may just stick to the 0.9 MM stock :)
piper
-
Thats a good question Gregg....I can see how it may give some support after the Bend is made ....but not during the Bend....if a Splinter comes up during the Bending ....I don't see how the Band would help.....maybe Steve can show Us that are hands on learners ....not ones that learn from Books....I cant visualize anything with out seeing it....have always been that way..... >:(
-
hmmm....I think I understand what you guys are asking.
You make the bend with the strap. I do not have a bow ready to bend this morning so we will just pretend that this one is ready to bend. (Excuse the sweat I just got done with my work out and had to cath my wife for a photo before she left).
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6423.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/yewarcher/100_6422.jpg)
You make the bend with the strap. Grab the bow out of the pot, put it and the strap into the jig, then use preassure on the strap (not the bow) to bend the wood. Use oven mits or heavy gloves as the wood is very hot and will tranfer heat to the strap real quick.....ouch......I know that from experince as well.
Does that answer your question? Next time I do it i will video it.
Steve
-
To elaborate......think of the starp as backing on the back of a bow. If you have a consistant materail that cannot break over the wood it cannot spliter. Most wood bends break because one little splinter raises and then its catastrope. The strap keeps the wood down and does not allow it to splinter while you are making the bend.
By the way guys, I am not knocking books or other sorces of info. I am knocking arm chair bowyers. I have been seeing allot of it latley on boards and its frustrating. I just wish that people would try the methods that they are sugesting prior to telling someone who has it under control how to " do things better". We have a few guys like that on these boards and its just agravating more then its helpfull.
Steve
-
Steve, your way is easier and faster than mine. I wrap the wood with jute twine before I steam and bend it. The jute stays strong even when wet....but it takes time to wrap the wood.
I think I'll try boiling on the next stubborn dog leg or propeller twist.
I've seen the strap method used for bending wooden chair components.....but it's a little different than your set up. The strap is anchored to the wood (on both sides of the strap) so the wood is deformed in compression only. I think this difference might be confusing some people.
-
Yar, Jute wrapped would work well too. Its all about getting the wood to stay down. Nice soft working recurves really dont even need straps as they are gentle. I use the strap method on static tips and small recurve tips that are severe. Its quick and easy. And I have never raised a splinter or had a crack SINCE doing it this way.
Ryano did a good video last year bending a working recurve. Maybe he can link to it again.
Steve
-
Thanks Steve,
That answered my question, I didn't know if you just held it by hand or had some other method you used.
Thanks!
-
To The Top of the list for David and Graeme on the 5-Curve, Cupid Bow thred.
The Cupid bow on the other thred is actually laying on the table you can see it. The Osage bow that I am bending in my first post is exactly like the ash one......just not done yet.
Hope that helps you out. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have.
Steve