Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Gordon on January 31, 2009, 07:48:10 pm
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Lately Ive been making most of my bows in the 60+ pound range. While I can shoot a bow at that weight with no problem, I wanted something a lighter that I could comfortably handle all day and use for primitive shoots. I ended up with a D-style bow that I fashioned from a short vine maple stave that was about 3 in diameter not a sapling. The bow is 58 long ntn, pulls 55# @ 27 and bends through the handle slightly. Im starting to favor this style because I can create a hunting weight bow and still keep it short without putting undue stress on the limbs. They also look kind of cool and are fun to shoot. The bow is 1 Ό wide at the handle, flares slightly to 1 5/16 mid-limbs and then tapers down to 3/8 at the nocks. I wanted narrow tips on this one so I glued on overlays to reinforce the tips and ensure that the sting is securely held. I stained the limbs with a combination of green, red and yellow leather dye and finished with 9 coats of Tru-Oil. The handle is built up with leather, covered with natural elk-hide and finished off with a Strunk-style wrap. There is no arrow rest so I shoot it off my hand. The tips were flipped up with dry heat to give the bow a slightly better profile. The bow holds about 1 3/4 of reflex at rest. Its nothing fancy, but I kind of like it I hope you do too.
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_1.jpg)
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_2.jpg)
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_3.jpg)
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_4.jpg)
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_5.jpg)
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_6.JPG)
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_7.jpg)
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Man, Gordon... you're a machine! You just keep crankin' out the eye candy. Have you ever made a crappy bow??? Your work is top shelf, and certainly motivates me.
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That's a beautiful bow Gordon- I certainly like it too!
Do you have any trouble tuning arrows to your D bows?
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pulls 55# @ 57
WWOW! 55# at 57"
Never seen a bow draw that far b4... :)
just joshin' ya gordon.
Another Very Nice bow.
beautiful job!
Wade
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Gordon, another great bow. I always love your stain jobs!
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Again another beautiful bow. And some great photography.
Care to give us a little tutorial on how to shoot good photos of our bows? I know I'd love to see something like that.
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I kinda like it as well,,, allot ;) That is my favorite length and style. The profile looks awesome as always and looks like another great bow Gordon.
Ps. Lulyn and I went by Squaw Flat this afternoon. saw a tipi right about where Dave C. had his set up last spring. Lots of deer and other critters out and about
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Gordon, every bow you make is amazing. And I second the idea of your photography - a photography "build along" would be a nice thing to help us take great shots. What type of camera do you use, lightiing, etc.
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Simply elegant, Gordon. You make everything look good...you have a talent for that! :) I'd like some tips on the photos as well.
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Another awesome bow Gordon, we must be thinking alike I just started a vine maple d-bow. I just put the finish on my first d-bow the serviceberry. Have you been steelhead fishing? I have been staying around the house playing with my new grandson. Greg
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Nothing Wrong with Goin Fast if your like gordon ,he knows what he doing, Always very impressed by your work.Phillip Oh I don't think I want to meet the person with a 57" Draw but that would be interesting to see a bow that big.
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Thank you adb. I do turn out dudes on occasion, I just don't post them. :D
Thank you Kegan. I've not had a particular problem tuning arrows to this style of bow.
Good catch Wade - that would be quite the bow indeed! :o Thank you for the compliment.
Thank you Barrage.
John, I don't think my photos are anything special. But I do pay attention to some basics: avoid cluttered backgrounds, use soft (diffuse) light whenever possible, keep the subject of your picture in focus, simple earthtone backgrounds are generally best for highlighting a bow. And it is always easier to get a good photo when the subject is nicely finished.
Keenan, I've always admired the style of bow that you like to build - it's no accident that mine are starting to look a little like yours 8) I can't wait to wait to get together with you and your group this year - I love that place.
Thank you hillboy.
Greg, great minds think alike I guess ;D. I'm impressed with the number of bows that you've been cranking out. I can't wait to see a few of them! Jayne had surgery recently and I've been taking care of her - so no fishing. But that's okay, the wild fish don't generally show up unitl about mid-Feb anyway. Congratulations on the grandson - you have to send me some pictures!
Thank you AKAPK, I appreciate the compliment.
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Gee Gordon this is what your 3rd bow this month. Your a machine. Good job. Joel
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Another beauty gordon.I really like it,the dye work is beautiful.I'm just finishing up a hickory D-bow with similar stats,that I'll post as soon as the tru-oil cures. Again,Great job. God Bless
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Typical great craftsmanship from Gordon. And his pictures are an excellent example of his just-posted tutorial on taking pictures of your bow.
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gordon,
very,very nice. keep them coming i find i'm starting to favor this type of bow myself.
i need to ask you a question about vine maple. do i need to start another thread?,or could i do it here?
chuck
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Thank you Joel. I had some extra time this month so I thought I would fill it with bow making.
Thank you Pete. I can't wait to see pics of your hickory bow!
Thank you Don. I agree with you completely - it's a shame when a beautiful bow is rendered less than that by poor photography. Especially when it is so easy today to take good photos.
Thank you Chuck. Feel free to ask questions on this thread. I'm happy to answer them.
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Nice simple design nicely done, Gordon.
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gordon,
what is your prefered method of bending? dry heat? or steam?
chuck
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Thank you Pat. There is something appealing about a simple design well executed.
Chuck, it depends on the reason I am bending and the wood. If we are talking about vine maple I use steam heat on the handle to correct string alignment issues. To remove twist and add light to moderate reflex I use dry heat. For more extreme reflex like recurving tips I would use steam followed by dry heat.
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gordon,
thank you for taking the time. it is vine maple,and it is extreme in the handle area. i'm not intentionly being vague i'm just not sure how to get where i want to be in reference to a bow i'm building for a friend.
thank you again!
chuck
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Another sweet bow Gordon. I love the dye job.
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That bow looks like a good shooter,Gordon. Is it the angle of the picture or is it a little flat on the upper limb in the full draw picture, about the last 2/3 of the limb?
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Chuck, don't try to remove reflex from vine maple. That's tension induced reflex and it will just come back again.
Thank you Okie.
Thank you Mullet. The upper limb looks flatter because it holds more reflex than the lower limb. You will see that better with this picture.
(http://mysite.verizon.net/res0oeio/VMDBow/VineMapleDBow_8.jpg)
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sharp bow! ...as usual!
frank
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A real beauty. Especially these little bend tips.
I like this curves.
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Thank you Frank.
Thank you Cooper.
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I never get tired of looking at your bows. :)