Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: riarcher on February 05, 2010, 07:29:46 pm
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I've used the real stuff and was pleased with it in the past,,, but can be messy or PIA at times.
Artificial seems interesting, but all that I see I guess is waxed.
Is that a issue on arrows? I'd think so, but maybe not. ???
Any real pros / cons on either?
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I hate artifical sinew, it looks so artifical, I use silk thread to wrap the butts of feathers or real sinew and there is no mess with the real stuff
if ya just take a piece, shove it in yer mouth and kinda chew it, that way it makes its own glue, works great :)
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The waxed artificial stuff is better if you separate it into individual strands. I also pinch it between my finger nails and scrape the wax off of it. All in all if you have the real stuff use it.
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I've used art sinew on arrows and sealed it with super glue. Usually you have to reseal it after a bit of use because if begins to fray. The real stuff works best and no glue is needed if you chew it first. When dry I seal it with pitch varnish.
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I don't use art sinew unless it's for a wall hanger. The real stuff is better. I just drag it through a bowl of warm water and squeegee it between two fingers with TB3 on them.
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i used the artificial stuff on the last batch of arrows i made. if you just use it whole, its no good. splitting it works much better. then i seal it up well.
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Artificial sinew is just waxed nylon thread. Real sinew works much better, but the artificial stuff works ok, just looks artificial.
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I have used buth and the real stuff works much better. Kenneth
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If you don't have art sinew, dental floss is the same thing, only white. I keep a pack of unwaxed dental floss in my archery tool box for emergency repairs...and after a steak dinner around the campfire. ;D
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I use real sinew, period. It shrinks when it dries, which makes for a very strong wrapping. When I wrap stone points onto my arrows it is the best thing to use. I've used artificial sinew, but I just can't get it to hold as tight as real sinew. My stone points will always tend to wobble and work loose when I use artificial sinew, but not so with the real stuff. Also, the wax tends to make it slippery and it will loosen over time. I've tried to pull the artificial stuff real tight when I wrap with it, but it still works itself loose. If I'm making a crap arrow for someone else and they don't care about it, I'll use the fake stuff just cause it's quicker...but it certainly isn't better. For real hunting arrows that will hold up to the abuse of hunting conditions, real sinew is the way to go.
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I also use only real sinew for points on hunting arrows. There is no substitute!
Great beginning to your series in PA Billy. Looking forward the the rest!!! 8)
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Sounds like I have no need for the artificial. ;D
Any ideas about what to do about the mess or PIA I sometimes find myself in with the real?
I really hate it when my beard and mustache stick together!! :-\ (Shaving 'taint no option - ;D) J/K
Worst than frozen buggers!
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you guys are making me feel like im doing something wrong with using the fake stuff
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The fake stuff works fine for tying on fletching, etc but for hunting points there is no substitute for the real deal. ;)
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The main advantage of the real stuff is what Billy said, it shrinks and tightens as it dries. Plus, it has its own glue in it. I've never noticed much of a mess or PIA with sinew, I just strip a thread off and pop it in my mouth for a few seconds, then pull it out and wrap it. And I'm usually pretty fuzzy-faced myself. :)
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ok then a feel a bit better. i usually seal my fletch wrapping. i have one arrow ive test with how ive made them, shot it over 40 times and there is no problems yet. so i guess ill get some sinew when i start making some hunting arrows.
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You can wipe down the fake stuff with acetone and get rid of the wax. That's what I did till I got that roll of un-waxed stuff at the Classic last year from Eric. Then, wrap it as tight as you can and soak it in super glue. It will hold pretty good then.
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ok then a feel a bit better. i usually seal my fletch wrapping. i have one arrow ive test with how ive made them, shot it over 40 times and there is no problems yet. so i guess ill get some sinew when i start making some hunting arrows.
Don't think the artificial is bad, more like what one is comfortable with.
I've used the artificial for sewing. I was wondering is all.
I do think I'll stick with the real stuff though mostly because of the way it shrinks and feel it's more pliable when wetted out. But, again, I'm used(?) to it.
Only times I had any issues is like when I attempted to back a bow with it. Between smoking, few beers, wiping off the doggie slurples, etc. my beard stuck to the mustache. Then again, it was everywhere. (Probably more the glue though. ::))
If there is ANY way to make a mess,,, I'll find it! :-\
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Oh yeah, backing a bow with sinew is one of the messiest things you'll ever do. Everything within twenty feet of you will jump up and attach itself to you. ;D
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When working with sinewing a bow I keep a bowl of warm water and a damp towel handy to keep my hands from getting too sticky.
I chew sinew for wraps like Hillbilly does. The sinew and your saliva makes the glue and no other is needed. After it dries I seal it with pitch varnish.
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??? what is "pitch varnish"?
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??? what is "pitch varnish"?
YEah, what is pitch varnish?
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I've used both real and artificial sinew with good results. The real sinew is a bit messier to work with but it is more authentic for native american style arrows. I have to admit to liking the artificial sinew better. Since I ty my fletchings on (no glue) using a medieval-style technique I like the fact that I can cut artificial sinew as long as I need. Like others have said stripping the sinew into 4-5 strands makes it look better. i seal mine using Barge cement.
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Pitch Varnish,,,You will want to use hard, dry pitch because it dries hard. The oozie stuff takes longer to dry and sometimes stays sticky a long time. What I do is put the chunks of pitch in a container and cover it with denatured alcohol. When the pitch disolves I strain it through a thin cloth to remove the solids, bark and wood pieces and dirt then pour it into an air tight jar. It will keep at least a year in the air tight jar.
When ready to use it I use a small artist type paint brush, dip it in the varnish and coat the wrap. When the alcohol evaporates the varnish is hard. You can clean the brush with alcohol but usually I let it dry and just soak it in the varnish while I do the wraps and it will be soft when I'm ready for it.
I use this varnish to seal any sinew wraps on arrows, for fletching, self nocks and when hafting stone points with pitch glue. I also use it on the shafts of hardwood shoot arrows. Usually I don't seal the shaft until after the fletching, self nocks and points are wrapped and do one end of the arrow, let it dry then do the other end.
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Thanks PAt.
Is pitch glue somehow different or just thicker viscosity?
What type of pitch can be used? Pine-Spruce etc.?
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My pitch glue mixture uses the same hard pitch(pine) as the varnish but I melt it over heat and remove the solids(trash) then mix in bees wax and finely ground charcoal while hot. I have never really measured but it is about 2 parts pitch, one part bees wax and one part charcoal. I have substituted fine saw dust for the charcoal and some folks use dried deer or rabbit poop as a substitute for the charcoal.
The bees wax(tallow can be substituted) makes the glue less brittle and the charcoal (saw dust or dried poop)adds body to the mixture.
WARNING!!! pitch is very volatile! Be very careful when heating it because it can and will flame up if not watched closely.
If you only have the oozie pitch you can cook it to remove the volatile oils and it will harden when cool. Again, Be Very Careful when cooking pitch!!!
I think the pitch from pine, spruce, fir, etc will work.
To use the pitch glue I melt the mixture and take sticks(about the size of a pencil), dip it in the pitch mixture then in cold water, then back in the pitch and in the water. What this does is builds up a blob on the end of the stick. These glue sticks can be carried in your possibles bag and heated and dripped on your project as needed.
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Right on...learn something new again. Good stuff.
Thanks