Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Pat B on March 13, 2007, 02:06:11 am
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I went to the corner of shame today and pulled out a boo backed hickory I started a couple of years ago. This is the first boo backing I got perfect but I overzealously created a hinge near one of the tips. Well today, I ground down the hickory backing to about 1/8" thich.
While cleaning my shop(can you believe that!) I came across 2 pieces of vertical laminated boo. This stuff is made up(laminated) of pieces about 3/16"widex1/4"thick and is in 3' lengths and 2" width.
How would this laminated boo work as a belly for this boo backed bow? I'm sure I will violate the power fibers when I retiller it. Should I look for other options? Pat
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I sed that stuff some, never on the belly though, when I was wild and yound and crazy and never got a bow out of it, although it was me and not the strips. I bet it would work, although it might be a spongy shooter cause of the lack of oomph in the interior of the boo. Hey, another option is to use a backing strip of boo for the belly for a hickory sandwich bow.
Dave
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Actually Pat, Bowmonkey(Russell Bartlow) made a bow out of some Bamboo flooring several years ago and it turned out very fast
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It makes a quite acceptable bow belly. The stuff has the mass to be a good bow belly, and it works a lot like wood. A lot of people are using this bamboo flooring stuff for backed bows, a friend of mine in Alaska has made many nice bows out of it.. I got a piece from Russell a few years ago, made a real nice hickory-backed pyramid out of it. The bow broke but ony because I used a really skinny design and then stupidly left the bow at 70+lb (the tiller looked great and I didn't want to mess it up).
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Pat, I am workng on a bow that that happens to be too short for the design I chose. Needing a few more inches to make it serviceable. I chose to put an extension on the limbs.What I m trying to do is cut a branch with part of the thunk left to make my limbs have a natural back set.My intent is to split the branch so as to have to pieces with exactly the same off set.Glue and sinew is what I am goin to use to attatch the parts to my bow. This might work for you since your problem is close to the tips. It should add a little more cast to the bow as well.This is uncharted territory for me.
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Matt, I had thought about scabbing on another piece of hickory over the hinged area but yesterday I reduced the thickness of the hickory belly to about 1/8" so I need an entire new belly.
Thanks Marc and Lennie, I'll give this a try. I have used the horizontal boo flooring for a few bows but was disappointed with the performance. I got these 2 pieces(vertical flooring) at the same time as the other but until now didn't know what to do with it. Should I taper these pieces a bit first or will it be OK to taper it after glue up while tillering?
Dave, I have other boo backing I could use for a belly(I'd have to temper first)but trying to figure out ultimate draw weight is more than my pea brain can handle.
So, unless someone else has suggestions, I'll go ahead and glue these boo pieces to the belly and retiller. Pat
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You woudn't need to pretiller unless you want to glue it in some reflex. But it would probably be a good idea to at least taper it some, your probably not going to need too much thickness to make the weight back up on your bow.
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Thanks Lennie, I'll glue it down first then taper as I tiller. I was worried about lifting a power fiber by violating them then stressing them. Pat
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Go for it Pat. My comment expressing uncertaintly was from lack of familiarity
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I'm gonna do it. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the help. Pat
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Pat, this thread reminded me-you gave me a strip of bamboo flooring a few years ago that I stuck up in the rafters and promptly forgot about until now. Do you remember whether it was vertical or horizontal boo?
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Steve, It is the horizontal stuff. These 2, 36" pieces are the only vertical stuff I had. Pat
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Pat, just wondering if you considered just using another backing strip? Are you using the boo because you have it or because it might work real good? Good luck. Ken
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Kenneth, This was another one of my screw ups like "O Yew Guys" that I brought to Colorado with "Elkie". If this one turnes out half as well as O Yew Guys did, I'll be happy. And this was the best boo for backing I ever prepared so I don't want to waste that. So I'll add these strips of vertical boo to the belly and see what I come up with. Heck, If it doesn't work out I'll grind all of this off and make a BBO. Pat
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Well, I screwed up again when I glued the boo to the belly. I had grinded the hickory to about 1/8" but left it thicker at the handle area. After the boo glue up, I realized that it would be too thick at the handle area and there would be no boo left if I tried to correct it(at the handle) so I ground all of the boo off completely and the hickory at the handle then thinned all of the hickory along the bow. Then I added 2 osage slats, with a bevel joint at the handle and glued it down with TBIII.
The pics below are of the glue up(boo/hic/osage) and the bow after the clamps were removed. The boo and hickory were glued up in Perry reflex and after I added the osage the reflex remained the same...about 3 1/2". I also narrowed the width a slight bit and may do more if needed.
Since this is the third time I have tried to make these components a bow the name "Thrice" poped into my head so if she makes a bow, that's her name..."Thrice".
Here are a few pics...with clamps on, after the clamps removed and the handle area showing all of the layers. Pat
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Looking good so far Pat,I love trying to save one.It seem like a lot of work at the time but when the plan comes together it is all worth it.Good luck. ;D
Pappy
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Nothing like a good challenge to test ones skills and patience.
DanaM
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Hi PatB, I glued one up a short while ago. It is a reflex/deflex design and is boo backed with Bamboo floor belly. I made it (belly) 3/8 thick tapering to 5/16 thick at the tips. This did not include the back bamboo thickness. I made it 1 1/4 wide around the fades and a straight tapper to the tips at 5/8 inches wide. I was looking for 55# to 60# @ 28 inches. It came out light at 46# at 28. I am going to glue up another one and make it 1 1/2 wide straight tapper to 5/8 wide keeping the same thickness. I use a copy of Vinson"s hour glass templet for the handle because I like the way it looks and feels. One of the limbs, bottom, is a little stiffer for some reason. Could be tolerances in the wood. I will have it at the state shoot for comments and critique. I have some photos but don't want to load up the thread. I think the combo works out very nice and would have been interested in seeing your version.
Dick
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Yea Pappy, I have quite a few that need fixin so I can stay busy for a while. ;DThe ones I've done so far have turned out better than expected.
Dana, This one is definately testing my patience. >:(
Dick, I was looking forward to using the boo for the belly but the way I had it glued up it wouldn't have worked out anyway. >:( Actually the osage I did use on the belly I got from Vinson a few years ago at Hickory. Small world ain't it. Pat
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Hey PatB, and getting smaller. How small you say. A friend of mine was visiting Australia and met a guy at a miniature tank battle. I am also into RC tanks. He mentioned my name and Steve, the Aussie, nearly fainted away when they both confirmed it was me. I had been corresponding with Steve for years. Just a bit of trivia. Small world.
Dick
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Had a little setback this evening. After working on this @#$%^&* bow most of the day I had it on the tree and pulling about brace height(boy was she bending nice) when she blew :'(. Not as bad as it could have been :). I realized that the overlay I had over the splice earlier was a bit short and it lifted off from one end at the first bending, so I remover it. In it place I put a 10" piece of horizontal boo flooring and shaped it into a handle. Figuring that if the bow wanted to flex a little through the handle this would flex enough to hold on....WRONG >:(. The simple bevel splice gave way and seperated the lams at the handle area only. Doesn't look like other damage so I will reglue the handle area, add another, stronger overlay and see what #4 will be like.
Cross your fingers. I'm starting to feel like Justin :o Pat
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Pat, this bow is obviously posessed by the Dev-ill. You need to tie it to a stake and burn it before it starts spinning, floating, and speaking to you in unknown tongues. ;D ;D
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It's the principle of the thing, now! This sucker ain't gonna beat me >:(
She had such a pretty bend too. Pat
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Now that is the spirit Pat. Somtimes ya just gotta get MEAN! Now go beat that thing into submission and take no prisoners! ;D
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I hear you Pat. Glad I'm not the only one to dumb to know when he has been beat. Nothing like getting your but kicked by a piece of wood. After you get her glued back up, stitch a piece of rawhide over the handle area. When it dries and shrinks there wont be any popping going on. Yes, I know it is drastic, but tough times call for drastic measures. Justin
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pat, maybe the bow is telling you to stick to selfbows ;D just kidding. i'm proud of you and your attitude there's nothing like skill paired with stubbornness. i expect you'll shoot this bow at the TN classic? ;D
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PatB, I'll bring mt Ruger .41 Mag with a silver bullet to Hickory, just in case you need it. ;D. Looking at the separation, there must have been a ton of compression on that area AND bending. Weird! ???.
Dick
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I will fix it!!! The problem is that I didn't support the handle splice and overstressed it too early in the process. Like I said before, She was bending so nicely. I guess I got carried away.
Marius, This is one reason I prefer self bows. I'd rather find a bow in a piece of wood than make a bow from a few pieces of wood. I think the discovery is what thrills me not the creation.
I feel this bow wants to be built but so far in dissatisfied with the components and the process. Everything that has gone wrong with her has been fixable. No total devistation. She wants to live and if I have my way, she will...and become a fine shooting bow. We will see!
Justin, I have already thought of a wrapped handle and rawhide would definately do the trick. With all the attempts, failures and components that have gone into this bow, I ought to have a "name the bow contest". The winner gets the bow, a hard hat and a protective cup! ;D Pat
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Ok I will go first Little Bit#&
Didn't wanna swear again or Justin will send me a bar of soap ;D
Lets not forget the protection Pat.
DanaM
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damn dude. oops sorry i swore.
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Eye protection, brain runs faster then my fingers LOL
Actually a good name would be "Patience"
DanaM
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It seems to have self-destructive tendencies. How about "Kamikazi" or "Suicidal Suzie" :)
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That's a tough one Pat. The ideal thing would have been to put a thin lam between the Bamboo and core. Now the next best thing would be to put a thin lam extending past the handle a couple inches on both side and between the handle and core. This lam should be thin enough to bend with the bow but still add some strength at the handle area.
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Marc, I will add another lam over the handle area joint. My intentions with the boo flooring handle was for it to bend a bit. I didn't think about the support for the splice though. When I repair it I will use a stronger wood but in a lam that is thin enough to bend a bit. Them I think I will wrap the handle over that. Pat
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Pat,
Clean your shop? You shouldn't make me feel bad like that. Cleaning my shop is a two-month process involving rebuilding cabinets, adding drying racks, installing windows, etc. I'll have it really clean in a couple years.
J. D. Duff