Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on April 22, 2011, 12:51:01 am
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... :'(
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You know we require pics! It is part of the punishment for putting tip overlays on crooked. :D
Can you reshape and make the offset overlay look artsy?
What glue did you use?
...did you ever bend recurves, one pointing up and one pointing down? ::)
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It was actually a elb style horn nock, iit still works, it's just so perfectly crooked as to ruin the bow for me. Ya, I used superglue, so I have no idea how to remedy. When you shoot it, it feels like you walked outside with your pants on backwards or something... lol
"You know we require pics! It is part of the punishment for putting tip overlays on crooked."
lol, I know, I know, I guess I could get a pic up maybe if I can get the angle that turns my normal nock into a side nock...
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Super glue will soften with heat. Try putting the horn in boiling water and see if that doesn't looses it up.
There is very little chance of horn tips coming off under normal use. I think I used TBII or III for horn tips on the ELB style bows I built. Had plenty of time to get the horn lined up.
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"I think I used TBII or III for horn tips on the ELB style bows I built. Had plenty of time to get the horn lined up."
Awesome. Thats good to hear, I thought about but wasn't sure. Hmmm, I might try boiling, thats a good idea. :)
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Try to get just the horn in the water. No need adding moisture to already dry wood. ;)
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Nah, sometimes I build in 'character' though ::).
If it works and it's on the bow, just file/rasp it until it's straight/symetrical, (or you break through to wood :o... at which point you could rasp the whole darned thing off and start again)
It's natures way of telling you not to use superglue >:D.
Del
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"It's natures way of telling you not to use superglue"
Ha, I agree. I just cut it off and scraped out the wood inside it, I guess I'm just going to have to raise the weight on my bow a bit. It's already pulling 70# at 28", which is what I wanted, so it kinda is disappointing as it was perfect to shoot. But Oh well. On a 79 1/2" nock to nock bow, piking 1" - 1" 1/2 inch on both limbs shouldn't raise the weight too much, right? (I hope, :) )
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On a 79 1/2" nock to nock bow, piking 1" - 1" 1/2 inch on both limbs shouldn't raise the weight too much, right? (I hope, :) )
79 1/2" ntn :o Blimey... that superglue did you a favour IMHO O:).
If you get the draw weight back to where you wanted it you will have saved a fair bit of mass and inertia, so it should be faster, it'll still be plenty smooth at that length.
It'll be a darned site easier to get in you car too ;D
Del
(BTW I'm assuming you aren't 6'8" tall??? ;D)
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"79 1/2" ntn Shocked Blimey... that superglue did you a favour IMHO"
lol ;D ;D ;D
"(BTW I'm assuming you aren't 6'8" tall???"
lol, maybe if ya cut that in half, :). I probably look like a hobbit trying to shoot a normal sized bow.
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Why so long? ???
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"Why so long?"
It was made out of some very light chrysal prone maple, plus I like the smooth draw on bows 70# or up. I really only like to shoot about 70# at 28", I am definitely a "longbow > warbow" kinda guy. Luckily cause the wood was so light it still shoots nice. I guess when I'm done it will be a warbow, as 70# at 28" is probably around 80 or so at 32" at and the length I'm sure it would make it, but I sure won't be drawing to 32". Plus from the wood being so soft it really needs a arrow pass and a handle probably. So you couldn't call it a warbow... I guess it's just a loonnggbow? :)
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D
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You must have a 34"+ draw length.... ???