Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: kavogt on February 25, 2012, 03:50:56 am
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Been having a hard time finding a supply of decent wood to attempt arrow-making, but can't seem to find anything. The dowels I've look through, when I can find just one straight one, seem limp as noodles. Been thinking of trying to find decent boards, cutting and planning them as outlined by George Tsoukalas, but I'm not sure how the kiln-dried stock in the stores will hold up to a 50 lb recurve.
Are there any near-foolproof, easy to find and buy woods I can look into? It's gotten to the point that I'm looking through stacks of 4x4 douglas fir fence posts in the hopes of finding one not riddled with knots.
Really, I just want something good for a beginner so I test the waters and see if I enjoy making my own arrows.
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If you really just want to see if arrow making is for you why don't you just get some pine shafts the right spine then make them up? If it tickles your fancy then make the next step to making your shafts as well.
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split ceder fencing. I have made shafting from it and I shoot 45-55 range.
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What size dowles are you looking @? I think most guys use the 3/8" birch dowels. Look for the straightest grain w/ very little grain feathering out the sides of the arrow.
Got anything to trade? I got some shafts, POC, multifloral rose, hazel shoots, PM me if interested.
dpgratz
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I really like 9mm pine dowles from b&q and they shoot very well out of a 65lb bow.
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When I used dowls I got them by the 100 I alway have plenty that was'nt straight. Dos'nt long to restaighten. The ones that would'nt stay straight I'd temper them after restaighting most were ok. Some you might have to straight on once in a whille. First thing I do when getting to my blind site is check my arrow and see if it needs straightened. I've found that once you get above 3/8's shafts tent to stay straighter. The 3/8 and 5 16 th are the ones that like to wamp some. Iv'e found out that well made and temper shoot arrows stay straighter and take less restraighting than you adverge dowls arrows.
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If you are looking to find some really really good wood arrow material, contact me or Matt G. Either can steer you towards some great arrow materials.
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split ceder fencing. I have made shafting from it and I shoot 45-55 range.
Just wondering how they turned out.... i have stock piles of cedar fence boards sitting in my shed..... had alot left over after doing the garden.... do i cut just 3/8 and then plane them using my friends arrow planer?
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I have a real good source of poplar that is as good if not better than anything out there. Pm me or Stringstretcher if you want to talk turkey.
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As long as the grain does not 'run off' they will be fine. The ceder fencing boards can be pretty 'iffy' unless you pay close attention when picking them.
I made these from split ceder fence posts (not the fencing boards).
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w468/bkrhino/CederShafting.jpg)
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Take these guys up on the poplar. It is great shafting!
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Thanks for the responses. PMs sent to both Stringstretcher and Matt, and, if I can find some cedar post I may try that. The only dowels I can find around here are that actually say what wood they are are poplar and oak. The oak feels too brittle to consider and the poplar too limp. Makes me wish I were an arborist and could wander in the woods and find what I want on my own :D
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Thanks for the responses. PMs sent to both Stringstretcher and Matt, and, if I can find some cedar post I may try that. The only dowels I can find around here are that actually say what wood they are are poplar and oak. The oak feels too brittle to consider and the poplar too limp. Makes me wish I were an arborist and could wander in the woods and find what I want on my own :D
The benefits of being an arborist are that you dont even need to go to the bush to find wood..... people call you up to cut all sorts of trees right in town.... they ay you to take it away..... so getting paid 600 bucks to drop and remove an enormous maple, and then making that maple tree into alot of bows and arrow shafting. your getting a pretty sweet deal.... Deffianately a career path to consider if your gonna be bowmaking.
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Here are the mechanical properties of western cedar:
And Atlantic white cedar:
[url]http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/chamaethyoid.html]http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/thujaplicata.html[\url]
And Atlantic white cedar:
[url]http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/chamaethyoid.html (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/thujaplicata.html[\url)
compare them to Port Orford cedar:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/chamaelawson.html (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/chamaelawson.html)
and Sitka spruce:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/piceasitchen.html (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/TechSheets/SoftwoodNA/htmlDocs/piceasitchen.html)
Call me a spoil-sport, but I always go by the science and not emotional preferences or anecdotal accounts. The first two cedars just don't make the cut.
Jim Davis
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Not to argue with you Jim, but sometimes a person has to use what they have or can get. Not what is the best.
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Thats what PA is all about. Using what you have to get what you need.
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Agreed. Perfect is nice, but often loses out to available.
That said, I'll never turn my nose up at scientific testing. Digging into the data there at the FPL will be interesting. Yes, yes, I am indeed a geek. :laugh: Thanks for the data and the site link, Jim! I know where at least some of my free time will be going...
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I probably was undiplomatic in my post with the links. Didn't mean to be. I scavenge all my arrow wood. I use knot-free sections of spruce framing lumber, old wainscoting, old Douglas fir base boards and trim, and I love to find slabs sawn from logs to make them square--slab wood usually has the finest growth rings and fewer knots. I brought some red pine slabs from Maine when I moved here to western Kentucky.
I try to always use scavenged materials. I just manage to scavenge good wood. It's like gold--if you want to find it, you have to look where it is likely to be. Check building sites, demolition sites--I even made arrows out of the spruce sound board of a piano (never again!).
Here are some yellow pine shafts from old wainscoting:
Jim
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d72/Reparrow/arrowswainscotting.jpg)
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Nice looking shafts. Cool use of scavenged materials.
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The easiest wood to find, work, and use is tonkin cane, river cane, or switch cane.