Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: BowEd on September 25, 2012, 07:07:42 pm
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Well its shot in and ready for hunting season. Made this one lately and I guess you could call it a complex composite semi recurve. It's a hickory bow from a stave pulling 58#@28. It's 58 3/4 n.t.n. It shoots smooth,sweet, and hits where I'm looking. Took a bit longer than the usual self bow but shoots good and I'm enjoying it. It's 1 3/8 at the fades tapering to 1 3/16 then quickly to 3/4 then to 7/16 wide tips. Kind of an exotic thing. Hickory is from Iowa, snake is from Missouri the gemsbok horn from Africa, the black silk warp from Japan. Fun making these from mother natures warehouse of replenishable materials.
Hello all.I decided to make a bow with a high enough percentage of composite materials to give the bow more durability with a profile that would enhance performance.I've seen Asiatic bows be very reseilant after being strung for long periods of time.My percentages would be scaled down a bit compared to the Asiatic bows.Asiatic bows are generally made 33%,33%,33%.My thought for this bow was 20%,60%,20%.More time in construction but I was up for the challenge.
Wood of choice was hickory.I have a lot of it around me.A stave that I tillered a 25#@28" bow from.Composites of choice were gemsbok horn,deer leg sinew,and something a little different backstrap from a beef.After bending my recurves in and glueing my horn and sinew on I waited 2 months.The long string told me I had a 75# bow in my hands.Mass weight was 22.00 ounces with a reflex of 7and3/8".My mission was on track.After tillering it to 58#@28" mass weight was 18.75 ounces with a resting reflex of 4and1/2".After shooting a couple hundred arrows,it shot smooth,sweet,quiet,and hit where I was looking.I noticed after unbracing the arrow was getting 3and1/2" reflex to it.It shot a standard weight arrow with 4" fletching in the low to mid 170s with a standard weight string.Not excellent but good anyway.It really by rights probably should be drawn to 29".The composite materials are doing at least 70% of the tension and compression work.The overall stats are 58and3/4"ntn 1and3/8" wide at the fades tapering to 1and3/16" then quickly down to 3/4" then to 7/16" wide tips.I finished it with some light brown dye,bullet shaped horn overlays on the tips and belly of the handle,a water snake skin,black silk wraps,and a blackish leather wrap handle.I gave it a lacquer finish for a sealant.It probably could be made in a shorter amount of time,but I decided to error on the side of caution,and yes I would make another one.Time will tell if it shows to be more durable.Hunting season is right around the corner.Inspiration to do this came from the profile and process of the sinew backed birch bow Marc St.Louis showed in the Apr./May issue 2012 of the Primitive Archer.I gotta thank John Bybee[iowabo] for helping me post this bow since I'm not quite up to date with the technology of a digital phone camera.Hope you like it and thanks for looking.
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Pictures
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More pictures
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You know I've been waiting to see this one thru our pm'ing....and boy was it worth the wait.
That thing is sexy as females curves from every angle ;D
Thanks for posting it ;)
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Beadman, great bow! ...... love that quiver too. Good luck this hunting season, you definitely got the bow to get the job done.
Greg
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Fantastic bow, have to call that one a Cadillac, its got everything!
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That's a beauty for sure!! Nice work Beadman.
Tattoo Dave
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I think those are the sexiest photos ever taken! Amazing amazing bow and I got to shoot it this afternoon. This bow is smooth shooting. Once I matched an arrow to the bow it was bullseye time. Great job Ed remember me in your will haha.
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Very nice Ed. You did a great job with it.
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That's a classy looking bow, my friend. 8)
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Excellent...and sexy! 8)
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blackhawk.....You and me both have been waiting thanks.
badly bent.....Thanks.The quiver is brain tan too.The beadwork is where I got my nickname.
Hrothgar......Thanks I'll see if it holds up.
tatto dave.....Thanks man.
Marc.....Thanks it is a commitment to start that's for sure.
iowabo.....Next time I'll get ya on the target shooting contest.That skyward shot arrow did disappear out a sight did'nt it.Fellas we shot arrows for at least 2 hours after he posted this bow for me.Shot at targets and each did a clout shot that disappeared into the bean field accross the road that took a while to find.
Weylin....Thanks a lot.
Pat B.....Thanks man.
Means a bunch to me you guys like it.Why is it after a person gets a bow done there's alway something that bugs how you could have done it better.Guess that's the nature of the beast.
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Oh...... blackhawk now I'll wait to see your wack at it.
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Everything about that bow is amazing. Great job on it.
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What a great bow!!!
Outstanding :)
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iowabo.....the bows' tillered for a 28" draw and if you pull it only to 25" my arrows won't hit the same as my draw to 28".I thought I told you that.
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Thanks osage outlaw and coaster500.
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wow, great build ;D i would be proud to have something even close to that.
since non of my stave bows so far have succeeded im going to take it slow and take a step and then step back and see what the next step is before diving right in, i have a tendency to just go at it till its done, but often thats not really helpful until you are really good at it and its second nature. even then im sure some of you would rather sit back for a moment or two and think about it. ATM i have 3 hickory staves that i can start working on very soon, 2 of which have bends on one end warping to the left or right. the one stave i have that is strait i have to take the cambium off. nice to see the rack of bows most of them being hickory was a great relief to me now knowing that i have examples of what to aim for! thanks for this build! give a guy hope when times are dark ;D
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ionicmuffin...That's right I sit back take it in the house after working on it,watch some TV and make some precise marks on it that I want removed and start with it the next day.Don't get in a hurry.Start wide enough and long enough.Sideways bends if they are'nt too severe can be taken out with the heat gun.If they are I'd steam em.If the sideways bend returns to line up it's got some character.Get the limbs bending equally in the beginning either floor tillering first then to the long string then brace.Keep em bending equally removing material overall off each limb.You'll get there.
wow, great build ;D i would be proud to have something even close to that.
since non of my stave bows so far have succeeded im going to take it slow and take a step and then step back and see what the next step is before diving right in, i have a tendency to just go at it till its done, but often thats not really helpful until you are really good at it and its second nature. even then im sure some of you would rather sit back for a moment or two and think about it. ATM i have 3 hickory staves that i can start working on very soon, 2 of which have bends on one end warping to the left or right. the one stave i have that is strait i have to take the cambium off. nice to see the rack of bows most of them being hickory was a great relief to me now knowing that i have examples of what to aim for! thanks for this build! give a guy hope when times are dark ;D
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i agree, i decided a while ago to start with my strait-est stave which was absolutely twist-less. i think after i finish the 2 bows that have chosen to work on for bdays i will go ahead and work on the hickory. I live in a humid climate, so i was wondering, what do you do to dry out your staves if its humid? im fairly certain that i wont have any problems yet since its been almost all sun here in washington, so idk.
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I keep em in the house in a controlled enviornment at at least 50% humidity better at 40% really leave em there and weigh em to see if they lose weight.After they quit losing weight for 4 or 5 days I work on em.Use that graph in the bow wood section in the Bowyers Bible.
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I put em right on top of the dehumidifier or by the wood stove in the winter.
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Really like that one and the quiver is a beauty also. Great work!
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Like that a lot,very nice job on it,tiller looks great and finish work is sweet also. :)
Pappy
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Stunner. 8)
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Ed
I'm glad the reverse bracing and 2 week wait did the trick
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Thanks fellas.I appreciate it.Having never met any of you guys YET they are nice things to hear.
Marc....After another hundred more arrows it has about settled into the set it originally had before the snake skin was put on.I got a dollar in my pocket of suspicions that I could get the same profile from just heat treating the belly and applying the sinew.Leaving off the horn.Less mass,faster,etc.I was hoping though that the horn might make the bow more durable i.e. longer stringing time.I shoot with a bunch of fiberglass boys at these 3D shoots and thought I'd try to prove something to them.Could be chasing a ghost but I gave it a try.I've seen these Asiatic bows be very resielant after very long periods of being braced.Of course their ratio of materials is divided more evenly.
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iowabo.....I cant my bow a bit when I shoot.You don't plus you are used to shooting off of your knuckle which I am too but have a very small shelf for a reference point with no arrow obstruction.You try to use your back muscles more than me.I'm used to my way and your used to your way.I'm sure I could shoot your bows good too if you put a piece of duck tape on the arrow shaft so I don't over draw.
That milkweed string I think I'd let a fresh bow be strung with it.That string is gonna take a set anyway while shooting.I'm sure a person will get more comfortable with it the more it is shot.Put it on the tillering tree and draw it a while if you are'nt sure.Work your way up to your full draw.
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very nice, that bow looks like it will last a long long time.
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:o
Very cool bow! Supreme craftsmanship on this one!
Did you intend make it a composite from the beginning?
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Yes Jodocus I did.
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Hope so.I'll see.Thanks......sa
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Very nice job, Ed! What a way to start heh?!? Looks like you worked thru all the little troubles you thought you was gonna have and beat that fox at the end. I agree with everyone, nice curves on that piece of wood. I like this best of all ur bows.
Scott
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Thanks Scott.That sinew is some amazing stuff.
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You threatened to do it. Ya done gone went and did it.
I figured you were up at Bybee's to shoot it from the pictures, bet Isaac was loving it!
That bow is even prettier than you aren't, you ol' hoss! I can't wait to see it up close and maybe even pitch an arrow or two thru it! Whoowee!
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Wow! That is a very balanced and beautiful bow. Great curves and nice combination for a hybrid. Love it. Congratulations
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That is one impressive bow!
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That one has lovely lines. Very nice work.
George
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WOW , sexy , sexy, sexy........wow :-X ;)
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Beautiful craftsmanship Beadman...one piece of work to be very satisfied and proud of, she looks smooth as glass as far as finish work goes as well.
Couple questions on her if you don't mind. How many layers of sinew did you end up with and did you groove the belly of the Hickory and the Horn like they typically do in an Asiatic bow? How thick do you think your Horn is?
Many thanks
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Loooking goood, and both bow and photo background is excellent. Too often we see bow pics taken in bathrooms and on top of kitchen sinks. ;) Markus.
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Thanks fellas...Means a lot from you bow makers there.Feels better than a at a boy response from the wife or excuse me exwife I tell ya that......LOL.
Lee....Now I knew someone would ask me this and that's ok.I mean about the thicknesses of stuff here.Asiatic bows are generally built with the 1/3,1/3,1/3 ratio.This bow was scaled down to about 1/4,1/2,1/4.
There are 3 and 1/2 courses of sinew.Next one will be at least 4.That sinew is some amazing stuff.It wants to work so just put it to work I say.The horn is right at .095 th. or at least 3/32".I reverse braced it during both applications to put the horn in tension and the sinew in compression or better to make the sinew work more.The horns' surface was scratched lengthwise with just a hackssaw and the bows' belly was too.I used a 1 and 1/2" wide inner tube and wrapped it to put the horn on.Jeff Scmidt says it does'nt always have to be grooved.Every culture did it a little different.There are Turkish,Korean,Chinese,Indian,Mongolian etc.
There are shear forces at work there at the glue line so it will hold.I've done three other bamboo backed hickory horn bellied bows in an R/D design on forms and they were ok but not to the degree of performance this bow has.It's the SINEW fellas it is amazing stuff.
So I had an idea how much poundage I could get from my horn thickness.I started with a tillered 25#@28" bow.Applied my horn and sinew.After 2 months I had a 75# bow.Right on track.A 2 to 1 ratio of composites to wood draw weight.The composite surfaces I figure are doing at least 70% of the work.My goal was to make a more durable bow[i.e. longer string time of most concern here] with a design to enhance performance.I shoot with a bunch of glass bow shooters at #D shoots and I wanted to piss em off.It does shoot faster than most of their bows all except a 52" Kodiak Recurve a fella has.So there it is fellas get after it.
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JW......Yes Isaac showed up later.Brought him some more arrows to shoot off the bow you gave him.
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Ed, thanks a bunch for taking the time so spell out all your details, ratios of sinew/wood/horn, etc...that is the "meat" I was searching for. I have been procrastinating on a composite build for quite some time now, not sure if I am intimidated by the horn or what my major hang up is but I do need to just hop off the fence and get to building one. I have some water buff horn and some gemsbok and plenty of prepped sinew so really my only point to work out is my choice of wood for the core. I am personally leaning towards some Osage but I do have a modified pyramid/paddle hickory bow I could possibly put to decent use as an option as well, it just need some time in the steamer and on a form for the recurved tips.
I do admire your glass like finish on this bow...looks like she was "dipped." Very nice...
Regards,
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That's a beauty for sure,great job!
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It's a lacquer finish.Magnalac it's called.Hedge,Black Locust,Hickory will all work.Oh how about rock maple?
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I don't know what you think but to use an elastic tension strong wood that is'nt too dense because of limb mass weight would be my choice.I've never worked hard maple yet and would like to give it a go.This was shagbark hickory which I have a lot around me here,but I think pignut is a little better really which is here too.Hedge would look very nice.Choice of wood sometimes is like trying to split hairs if you know what I mean,but there is a difference that's for sure.
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OHHHH....I forgot ironwood is an opton too.
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Markus....That buffalo hide I braintanned back in the 1980s.Got took on a deal where a fella gave me 2 of them and said tan both and you can keep one.Lot of work.
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It's a lacquer finish.Magnalac it's called.Hedge,Black Locust,Hickory will all work.Oh how about rock maple?
I'll have to make a note on that lacquer, not sure I've seen that locally but worth the search I think. I'm not sure I have Rock Maple around here (lower southwestern MI) but we do have Sugar Maple. We also have Hornbeam which from all I've read on here from those who has worked it, it is quite the resilient and impressive white wood (seems a lighter white wood would help with the mass issue.)
The I think the hickory paddle/pyramid I have is Pignut but I got it from Blackhawk and maybe he knows for sure...I'll have to pick his brain and see if he recalls.
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Lee...Sounds like a weiner to me....LOL.The magnalac comes from the woodsmith store in des moines,Iowa.The reason I like it is two fold.It dries a lot lot quicker than poly[recoat every 10 min. and you can be shooting the bow in 2 to 3 hours.]If you have to sand to retiller you can recoat and it blends right back in with no lines whatsoever.It is harder than poly but still flexible enough for a bow.Get the dull version if you can.the precatalized magnalac.
I'm no expert about these composite bows at all but have been in the ballpark a while and have sat in a few of the seats ok.The thinner the core gets like to only 1/3 of the thickness of the limb it basically is just there as a glueing surface and performs nill.It does help to stabilize your limbs though and that is important too.Maybe you have watched it before I don't know but if you go to you tube and type in [YamtarCeri] Jeff Schmidt is there with John Mchperson and they will show you.
Sounds like you've got the right kind of wood around.Sugar maple IS hard maple.You won't go wrong with ironwood either.
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It's a lacquer finish.Magnalac it's called.Hedge,Black Locust,Hickory will all work.Oh how about rock maple?
I'll have to make a note on that lacquer, not sure I've seen that locally but worth the search I think. I'm not sure I have Rock Maple around here (lower southwestern MI) but we do have Sugar Maple. We also have Hornbeam which from all I've read on here from those who has worked it, it is quite the resilient and impressive white wood (seems a lighter white wood would help with the mass issue.)
The I think the hickory paddle/pyramid I have is Pignut but I got it from Blackhawk and maybe he knows for sure...I'll have to pick his brain and see if he recalls.
It was shagbark Lee. Hickorys all the same to me
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Hey blackhawk....Sounds like a typical hedge man response.....LOL.I've noticed pignut staves pull themselves into more reflex the more wood you remove from their belly.Not so much with shagbark.
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I been waiting to see this one Ed! Nice work my friend. That will do! Josh
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Wow! That is a stunning piece of work.
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Thanks Gundoc & CMB.It's just a bow and the shine of it will wear off.Then it's off to another you know.This was a bit different than your regular self bow though.
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Great looking bow need to get you to tell me how you made it hope to see what you kill with it this year
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Back on reply #41 I mentioned to Lee Slikkers that the glue line of the horn and wood would hold and it will.I feel responsible to say this.Now I used smooth on epoxy for this.According to the instructions.It takes an extreme amount of heat starting at 280 degrees F. to loosen the glue line of smooth on.I've heard from a couple of expert bowyers that they tried it with titebond 3 and it did'nt hold.My glass bow making friends use smooth on on all of their bows they make and they do make a bunch of bows and have never had a failure unless it is a dry joint.I personally have used it on a few bamboo backed hickory bows with horn bellies and have never had a failure either.Hide glue was used by the Asiatic bow maker Jeff Schmidt.I used hide glue with the sinew on the back of course.
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Ed, interesting to hear someone using the Smooth On epoxy. I am kinda of a hide glue nut for the obvious stuff like sinew and snake skins and hadn't ever considered using the epoxy for horn work but it is something to "noodle" on and consider I guess.
I checked out that YamtarCeri on youtube and what a huge wealth of info...over an hour and 3/4's of instruction...many thanks for that link, still need to finish the series but very interesting stuff.
Thanks
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Yes hide glue has stood the test of time that's for sure.My concern or rather over concern maybe is that hickory is a magnet to humidity I think more so than most woods.The horn on there with smooth on then the lacquer over that made me feel more assured of barriers to the humidity.As the titebond 3 then snake skin then lacquer barriers on the back.I weighed the pros and cons around in my head hide glue or smooth on a while and that is what I decided.Smooth on has been used for decades for laminated bows.I really believe it is a stronger glue than titebond 3 in load bearing stressful situations but guys have been making laminated bows of high poundage war bows with titebond 3 too.Glueing is like a paint job on your classy car.Preperation is 90% of the success.
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Ed
If you compare your bow to an Asiatic horn bow then you didn't put very much reflex into it. I think that when you make a highly reflexed Asiatic horn bow then that is where hide glue would hold better than epoxy.
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The mention of an Asiatic bow to Lee was in response to him inquiring as to the thickness of horn I used on this bow.The amount of poundage gained.This bow by no means is getting the stress that an Asiatic bow gets and I did not mean that.I said it was a scaled down version of thickness laminations compared to an Asiatic bow.The amount of reflex I started with this bow was 7 and 3/8" before tillering.After it has shot somewheres of between 300 to 400 arrows it holds 4 and 3/4" resting overnight reflex.3 and 1/2" reflex is being put to the arrow after at least 2 hours of being braced and shot 50 times or so.Would you call that very much or not much?
My concern to keeping this bow reseilant through damp weather was the reason I tried to use multiple layers of barriers on the back and on the belly to slow that down.What was the reason you used epoxy to glue your birch bark on?That is where the smooth on came in to use for me.I knew from the very beginning that this bow was not going to get the reflex that an Asiatic bow has.
I do see your point about the glue though.It is very possible the same amount of protection finish of lacguer could protect it using hide glue too.
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I call it an Ed bow ok?.........LOL.
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Hey Ed, been thinking more on the horn prep part of your project. Other than the youtube link, do you have any tips for thinning or prepping the horn?
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At this time this bow shoots a standard weight arrow 577 grain with 4" fletching with a standard weight string 172 grain in the low to mid 170s.After being shot at least three times before testing.Not excellent but good anyway.It started in the upper 170s before shooting it in.That is with my release too which I'm sure could be improved.Personally I am satisfied.Until the next bow.....LOL.That is part of what I was going after too.Along with the durability.
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Actually Ed the point I was also making was that TB3 will hold a bow together when glued into reflex of around 5 or 7 inches as I have done it but it will not hold with 10 or more inches of reflex that an Asiatic has. That is why I suspect smooth on will not hold under those conditions.
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Yes I see your point, and quess you see mine.A good performing efficient long bow type of bow or semi recurve or recurve is what I like at this stage for hunting and goofing around with my friends at 3D shoots.Nothing much shorter than 56".I guess it is still out there yet then as to whether smooth on would hold an Asiatic bow together on the belly.My glass bow making friends make R/D and recurves.The recurves work in a very small portion of the bow and mostly are their faster bows.The shortest in the 52" range.What did the titebond 3 failure look like?
By the way how much back set did your sinew backed birch bow retain after shooting three to four hundred arrows through it and being braced for hours at a time?I know in the article you said you started with 11" before tillering.
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Very nice bow, Beadman. Very nice.... ;)
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How do you tiller a bow with horn on the belly.
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I don't know how someone else might do it but in order not to lose the actual thickness of horn I belly trap,side tiller,and maybe if need be very slight reduction in thickness of horn by sanding.Now in order to be able to do this you must start out with enough width in your limbs to accomplish this.
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Don't know how I missed this one but I'm glad I got to see it. Beautiful work. Great looking bow.
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Thanks Mike and Dvshunter.Sometimes little rewards come to those who wait.....LOL.
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Wow! You've definitely created a lethal thing of beauty there. I really love the full draw look...
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Where do you get your horn at for the belly.
Rob
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Thanks onebownder.
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Awesome bow Beadman!
The pics are GREAT!
Kevin
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Thanks Buffalogobbler.
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I love the look of this bow! good job.. you have inspired me!
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Thanks ScottN....Takes a bit longer to make but I still feel it was worth it.
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Hey Beadman..I missed this one some how,that is one awesome bow!Looks like she sure can zip an arrow!and mighty pretty to boot!-Hammertime
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Thanks Hammertime.Yea I've had to make a whole new set of arrows for it with a stiffer spine.
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Well Cip updated the lowdown on the costruction of this bow for me and everybody.Here it is.
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That is a really sweet bow Ed I like this one as much as your latest I like the way you made this pre tiller & all wonder if you pre tapered the horn ? and reflexed the horn like the current one don't know if this thread will come forward being it's older also wonder how this one held up?
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That paticular bow is still around shooting good as ever.Got to have 10,000 thousand or more arrows through it.Quite a few miles on it I know that.The thread says what it is.It was a learning curve type bow reflecting now.It was 58#'s.I tillered it to 53#'s I think way later.Lost 1/4" reflex doing that.I say learning curve now because I belly tillered it then.There was enough width to side tiller it more.
The bow made just lately I feel is quite a bit above this one in performance.Mostly from asking the composite materials to do more work.It's a long road or learning curve making these bows.The latest is the 6th or 7th one.Either that or I'm a slow learner.Anyway each one is satisfying and educational in it's own way.
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Actually Ed the point I was also making was that TB3 will hold a bow together when glued into reflex of around 5 or 7 inches as I have done it but it will not hold with 10 or more inches of reflex that an Asiatic has. That is why I suspect smooth on will not hold under those conditions.
I've used EA40 (Smooth On make many different glues) on very reflexed designs with no problems. Ea40 can be cured at higher temps and will then have even greater resistance to heat corrections later. They supply details on the data sheet. I think it is probably one of the best epoxies for making composites.
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Yes Mike smooth on is a good product working as a thin layered glue[in higher reflexed working sections while the surfaces need to be roughed up for best adhesion] or even a gap filing[nonworking sections] type glue.It has a 2 hour pot life also.It's definitely impervious to water,but heat is another thing.My fellow FG bow makers avoid leaving their FG bows strung in a cab of a truck on a hot sunny day though.They can and do delaminate.They know about the heat curing of smooth on too but say it is risky to trust.
Hide glue on the other hand has it's pros' and con's too.I'll have to tiller my backwards C horn bow to find out.Everything is lined up pretty good on it to begin with anyway I think.Matching grooves horn to core.The horn was not tapered prior to glueing it on.That will be the issue with it I think.Staying away from too near the handle bending causing too much set.Needs to be streched out flaterntonsee what I've got and adjusted then tepliks need to be used.It does have a slight taper of 1/32" in thickeness out to midlimb though starting at 3/8" thick at fades.Width is 1 and 5/32".50" long ttt.8" handle.368 grams.Don't really have any exact idea what draw weight it will be.Hoping for at least 40 pounds.It's my first so it's gotta hold together all the way to know what poundage I'll get.Some pics.
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1346_zpslzsmqh2d.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1346_zpslzsmqh2d.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1347_zpsf5hh1zvx.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1347_zpsf5hh1zvx.jpg.html)
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad41/Beadman1/DSCN1348_zpsjzpelasm.jpg) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/Beadman1/media/DSCN1348_zpsjzpelasm.jpg.html)
This should really be on the horn bow thread.
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Yes Ed I agree but I've done a bit of experimentation with EA40 and the heat resistance properties and have found what they say on the data sheet to be correct. I've made about 60 or so fg bows now. I do agree that for your average bow it isn't worth doing and you are just more likely to run into problems trying to cure wood/natural materials at those temps.... your wood etc had better be below 5% mc, shrinkage,checking etc.... I was meaning more that out of the epoxies available it would be a good choice for a horn/core joint if you weren't bothered about tradition. When you have a good look there are also specific epoxies available for high temp applications. For myself however I wouldn't go past 'normal' collagen glues with their very helpful properties!
It is a shame that bow doesn't have any reflex in the tips.....;)
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Yes Ed I agree but I've done a bit of experimentation with EA40 and the heat resistance properties and have found what they say on the data sheet to be correct. I've made about 60 or so fg bows now. I do agree that for your average bow it isn't worth doing and you are just more likely to run into problems trying to cure wood/natural materials at those temps.... your wood etc had better be below 5% mc, shrinkage,checking etc.... I was meaning more that out of the epoxies available it would be a good choice for a horn/core joint if you weren't bothered about tradition. When you have a good look there are also specific epoxies available for high temp applications. For myself however I wouldn't go past 'normal' collagen glues with their very helpful properties!
It is a shame that bow doesn't have any reflex in the tips.....;)
Yes I sure do too about those tips.More reflex I mean.My mistake all the way.Well with it being a longer type horn bow and it survives tillering it might not stack too bad yet at 28".A shame though they should get pulled to 30" anyway.A good practice type horn bow I guess.Reason there is horn on the belly of those tips is because I tried to put more bend with dry heat on them but they cracked so I laminated horn onto it[smooth on glue used for that ].They are mulberry tips.I plan on putting as high and thick of horn overlays to get another 1/2" set back anyway[smooth on again used].