Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: bubby on October 12, 2012, 02:56:01 am
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alot of newbie's have been asking for a build-a-long so here's one for a pyramid bow. first get ya the best board you can, this is hard maple, but hickory, white oak, even red oak if that's all you can find, but get the best one you can.this is a quartersawn board 66" long cut 2" wide, find centerline both length and width and mark, on length mark both ends and then use a straight edge of snap a chalkline to mark it. use a square to mark a square line at 33", then go up and down from that mark 2" and do the same, this is the grip area, go 2" up and down from those mark's and do the same, these are the fades. (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture004.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture005.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture006.jpg)
at the lines for the grip mark 9/16" each side of the long centerline on both ends, at the fades mark 7/8" each way, at the centerline mark 5/8" each way and then connect the dots
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now mark 1/4" each side of the line at the tips, then i use a straightedge to draw the lines that mark out the limbs,like in the pic mark all around the bow/handle at the fades. on pyramids that have an even taper i use a tablesaw to cut the limb thickness, take a square and mark the table with the blade run all the way up, remember to use the guards, i took them off so you can see it better, then set the fence just a hair under 1/2", put the back against the fence and rip untill the fade line meets the line on the table, then STOP(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture010.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture009.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture008.jpg)(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture012.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture011.jpg)
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after making the cuts for both limbs you have to square up the cuts to the start of the fades, i use a vice and a handsaw, i've tryed to use a bandsaw for this and screwed up a couple bows, hence, the handsaw(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture014.jpg), i forgot the glued on handle pc can be as short as 8", i didn't go over the glue up as it's self explanatory, now to layout the fades i have a french curl set for making my radius's, but you can use anything to get what you need, i then cut these out on the band saw (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture017.jpg)
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i now cut the profile out on the bandsaw making shure to not get to close to the lines, thats a shure fire way to end up with a kids bow, i then sand down to the lines and round all the edges of the limbs, this will help keep from raising a sliver on a limb, i actually round over all the edges,
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture018.jpg)
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now measure down 1/2" from the tip's and make a 45deg. mark, this is for the string nock's, i use a three sided file to start these and then use a chainsaw file to finnish them, don't file across the back of the bow, take your time and make shure these match up(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture021.jpg)
these are all the basic hand tool's that i use, nothin' fancy, (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture022.jpg)
i'll post some more later, gotta go ice my knee, Bub
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Nice instructive build, Bub. I'm sure this will come in very handy to a lot of folks, including me!! ;)
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Nice Bubby!!!
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thank's guy's, i thought i'd show how to build one this way because i think lots more people have tablesaw's than bandsaw's, or atleast access to one, well i put it on the long string, but the long string should be short enough that there's no slack in it, then i exercise it and use a gizzmo to find any flat spot's that need scraped, i feel that a gizzmo is almost a requirement to have, especcially on a non character bow such as a board bow. after you get it flexing evenly about 8" go to a short brace of about 3", and continue to use the gizzmo to check for spots that need scrapedtill you get to about 24-25" on a treethen go to full brace, i like to brace it and leave it sit for an hr or so
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture002.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture003.jpg)
this is the last that i use the tree, the rest of the way i strech it out buy shooting it in, i have an arrow with marks on it and i just keep working and shooting till i get to full draw
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now i'll ruff in the handle, this is just the style i like, you can do a pistol grip or whatever floats your boat, i allways round the front of the grip like in the pick, with a stiff handle like this i've never had any issue's with slivers raising and it's way more comfy, this bow was drawing 40#@25", so i'll have no problem hitting my target of 50#@29", now it's really just a matter of sanding and finishing the grip area and making a string, and applying a finish, more soon, Bub(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture004-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture005-1.jpg)
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Good job! :)
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I'm liking this so far looks super easy il have to try it soon . Iv never done a pyramid bow before
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o.k. i got the sanding done, this is gonna be a beater bow so i sanded it smooth but didn't worry about getting all the rasp marks out, so it's got some beauty mark's on her, time to work out the tip's, i like to mark'em out with a pencil and then do the major reduction with my occillating belt sander, then cleen up the grooves and sand(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture001-2.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture002-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture003-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture004-2.jpg)
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i slapped some stain on her, dark walnut, then i rub on some dark brown rit dye and faded it some(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture005-2.jpg)
now the floppy rest, cut the leather to the size that you want/need, then put some contact cement on the section like in the pic and fold and clamp. when dry i fold the outer pcs back on the middle and clamp, this makes it easyer to mount on the bow, glue the back and mount where you need it. i then wrapped the grip with some braided hemp cord and soaked in tb2(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture006-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture007-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture008-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture009-1.jpg)
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here she is a sweet shooting pyramid bow from a maple board, shoots a nice group at 20 yds, no hand shock and maybe a 1/4" of set after 150 arrows thru her. total cost of the bow $6.00 plus the string, i make my string's and they cost pennies to make, i spent 24 dollars on the board and got 4 bows from it. (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture011-1.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture012-1.jpg)
while i dont condone trying to build a bow super fast because that's when i screw up, total time spent on this build was about five and a half hrs actual work time, and that includes staining , sealing and twisting a string up, hope this help's somebody and if ya have any ? just ask
final stats, 66" ttt, 64" ntn, 50# @29", Bub
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You make that look very easy Bub. I'm usually still looking at the stave after 5 hours. :-[
Good work,
George
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thank's george, but in your defence you make some great bows out of the knoyyest, most twisted staves, i wish i had half your abillity, Bub
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Bub, that was a very kind thing to say. Thanks.
George
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Looks nice bub....so after all that time spent making it and no money shot ;) :laugh:
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blackhawk, i been spending to much time with rehab and ice to get one, i'll get one up in a bit, Bub
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Nice job. Question...could you have built that bow any shorter?
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yeah, you can go shorter, especially if you go with a bendy handle, you also have draw length to consider, just remember that the shorter you go the more perfect your form has to be, short bows are not as forgiving as one like this,
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Great Build along! I love seeing these.
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Good build, Bub. They should put this in build a longs for future reference. IMHO. :)
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here's the money shot blackhawk, Bub(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture001-3.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/build-a-long/Picture002-2.jpg)
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Great build and superb final result Bub. I'm with George, after 5 hours I'm still lookin at the board. After ripping it like that on the tablesaw, was the tiller bang on or how much adjustment/scraping did you have to do?
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thank's randman, every once in a while the tiller is spot on and i just sand and go, but most of the time it's like every other bow, scrape scrape, exercise, repete, but this is especially the way to go if you have to build a bunch of bows fast, like if your gonna give them to the scout's or something, Bub
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great job blending the handle in!
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Thanks bub ;)
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That is really cool bub... almost makes me want to go out and go shopping for board... almost >:D I have always wanted to try maple... is that your preference over the other woods as far as board Bows go?
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Wow....very nice buildalong:-). And so different to my own approach. I especially like the stain job.
Cheers
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thanks soy, i prefer maple and white oak when i can get it, hickory as well, just gotta make shure it's hard maple, maple does make a fast bow, Bub
thanks holten, just wanted to show a differant approach to building a bow, Bub
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Nice one Bubby. That's going to be a great help to many aspiring bowyers.Should be easy to find when "searched" as well. Thanks!
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i like this a lot that's a nice lookin board bow i hope to be getting around to making one soon I'm sure ill use this win i do thanks for posting it up .
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Love the Bow and the Build along, good work will have to give this way a go.
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Looks good. Thanks for the contribution, us Rookies will hopefully learn something, I know I will.
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Great buildalong and very nice bow bubby
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thank's Keenan
101, preacher, littlehunter, i hope this helps ya out some, need any help just pm me, Bub
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Nice build along buddy,never built a board bow,you make it look simple,I am sure
not as simple as you make it look. ;) :) Nice results. :)
Pappy
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Great work there Bub, and thanks for sharing. As all above stated, you make it look easy :laugh:
Thanks, Graylan
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Noce work, Bubby. Came out great. Jawge
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TTT
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i am just really getting into the whole primitive scene and these pics helped me understand some about what techniques are used to create such beautiful works of art (at least that is what i see when i look at all the post here wonderful mastery of an art that wwe as people have gotten away from) truely amazing all post here
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thanks for sharring. it really helped. could i do this with ash and what is the thickness of the limbs before you started tillering?
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yeah squirrel ash will work, if you start just a hair under 1/2" you should be good, just remember all woods act differently, even in the same species
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thanks.
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You did a real nice job with this build a long Bubby!
Tracy
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thank's tracy
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Very informative....looks like a good candidate for my first attempt. Time to whup out the ol chainsaw and go hunting for some wood!
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so this bow didnt explode on you
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no kidbow, this bow did not explode, in fact I gave it to a guy at work, it's got at least 1000 arrows thru it and still no set, I've made a lot of bows this way with few failures, as you can see it's a well tillered bow
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ive heard a bow is not built until it has fired it's 500th arrow
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what are you looking for in a board when it comes to making one into a board bow?
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the best grain you can get, quartersawn, riftsawn of plainsawn will all work, check all 4 sides of the board and see what you have,
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gonna bump this up
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My latest was made w/ constant thickness, like Buddy's build-along. Also, similar to Buddy, used table saw to rip thickness.
GREAT technique, but be sure to think through where gonna stop your rip so ya can then blend in riser using bandsaw or scrollsaw or rasps or ... etc.
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Can this be done with just hand tools? How do I find a good board? I know straight grain is a must.
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yep you can do this with hand tools it will just take more time and will possibly be more satisfying depending on how you look at it, follow the measurements and you will be ok, use jawge's site ant the top of the page here he gives detailed info on board selection
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yep you can do this with hand tools it will just take more time and will possibly be more satisfying depending on how you look at it, follow the measurements and you will be ok, use jawge's site ant the top of the page here he gives detailed info on board selection
I have book marked Jawge's site also some others.
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just want to bump this up
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I've never made a board bow yet but if I do this is what I'll go by.Very nice build-a-long Bub.Thanks.Board selection will be an issue for sure.
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So I'd "only" need a 76" ttt board for a 33" draw? (unless I wanna start drawing to my chin instead of to behind my ear :|) wonder if that'd have handshock. I like the look of pyramid bows. Real simple. Takedown one would be nice...
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Loin i would think 70" ntn would be plenty of length although 33 seems super long draw length
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What is the reason for stopping the rip at the fade marks? i feel like it is probably obvious but i am just not seeing it. TIA
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The reason is the handle, rip the full length glue a larger handle on and when tillering if it gets bending to close to the fades a common occurrence, the handle pops off
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Really hoping I'll have time to do this, planning to do a few maple and hickory bows this way
Would these dimensions be reasonable for a 70#@28.5" hickory bow?
Thanks
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you would need to start with a thicker limb for 70# but the basic design will be fine
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I know thisis kinda old but I gotta say this was a GREAT build along. So kudos man. What would be a good thickness for a 60in hickory? TIA
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If u want to err on the side of caution just go 1/2" thick and tiller to weight
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Amazazing by the way....I'm work on a board bow and you've managed to answer all of my questions. THANKS!
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😃
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Is that your son in those pics bub? Sure don't look like you :)
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Is that your son in those pics bub? Sure don't look like you :)
Har har har!!! 😂
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Thenks for the build along. I am very new to all of this and appreciate the post. I've tried my first hickory board bow and followed your instructions as best as I could. I had what I thought was a nice quick shooting bow at around 40# but after about a few dozen arrows I could hear popping in the limbs. Thinking it was about to either explode or lift a splinter, I stopped shooting. I noticed that you didn't scrape the back to "chase the ring" . Is this not required on a board bow? I've built a few maple sapling bows and while they are very light in draw weight, I didn't have to chase the ring. I would appreciate your comments. thanks again.
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sent you a pm
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This post oughtta be stickied, imo.
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This post oughtta be stickied, imo.
Second that
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Just bumping this up for reference
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Thanks for all of the effort you've put into this build-a-long. I've read the thread many times to make sure my questions haven't already been answered; I hope they haven't.
I have a 7' X 3/4" red oak board. I don't have access to a table saw or belt sander. Have any advice for taking taking the side from 3/4" to 1/2" with hand tools? Should I keep the extra length of take it down to the 66" as in your build? What glue did you use for the handle?
Thanks in advance Bubby and thanks to all of the forum members for sharing.
Dave
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Dave, you can reduce the thickness with a farriers rasp or anyother rasp that has a heavy cutting side, draw the lines for the thickness on both sides of both limbs then remove wood down to that line on both sides but leave a ridge in the middle like a roofline. Once you get the edges reduce to the line start removing the center ridge untill the belly is flat. I used carpenters yellow glue tightbond and if i were you i would cut it down to 68" overall length and 66" nock to nock
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what's your draw length?
it would probably take me a day or two of just rasping to rasp 1/4" off of a 6' red oak with a regular Shinto rasp... is the larger version or the farriers rasp much more effective?
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Yeah with the course side of a farriers rasp i can reduce one limb in about 10-15 mins
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Thanks Bubby.
Loon, my draw length is 29". It may take a while but I'm in no rush.
I've got some 2X4 studs I thought of using for the handle. Does the type of wood matter?
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Not really use whatever you want for a handle
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Haha fir for a handle will be interesting.. never really heard of that
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Loon, if I get it done I'll post a pic.
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You know fir can finish out really nice
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TTT