Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: adb on November 05, 2012, 06:13:10 pm
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These are some heavy arrows I've finished for a friend for Xmas. His wife ordered them for him.
1/2" oak shafts, 32" from valley of nock to base of head, 7 1/2" hand cut fletchings, bound 4 wraps per inch with black silk. Heavy war heads are hand forged by Hector Cole in the UK. All heads weigh 28 - 30g. These are parallel for the first 2/3, and then evenly hand tapered to 3/8" at the nock. 2" horn inserts in the nocks. The horn is 1/8" wide to aid in release from the 120+# bow these will be shot out of. Nocks are 1/8" wide, and 3/8" deep. These arrows all qualify as 1/4# (113g) arrows for EWBS or CWBS sanctioned shoots.
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wow, those are some nice arrows, where did you get or how did you make the shafts?
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Nice!!
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Wow, that thread wrap looks very even. I struggle with that the most. Beautiful arrows!
George
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Great craftsmanship!!
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Thanks! These are very labour intensive to make... each one takes about 2-3 hrs to complete from start to finish.
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Very nice...
Dunno how you have the patience for that spiral thread. How on earth do you know where to pull it down through the vanes of the feather? Or do you get all the vanes standing up straight or maybe thread it though on a needle?
Making arrows isn't my fave'
Del
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Nice arrows! Are they bobtailed?
How on earth do you know where to pull it down through the vanes of the feather? Or do you get all the vanes standing up straight or maybe thread it though on a needle?
Dunno about Adb but I just use use the thread to seperate the vanes, I try for four turns per inch of flight.
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Yup, that's how I do it too. I use the thread to seperate the feather, and then smooth it back together with my fingers. With a bit of practice, it gets easier. It's also not difficult to achieve even spacing after a while, too.
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Nice looking arrows those - though, "qualify for EWBS/CWBS shoots" the 1/4 arrow has a rear edge as nature intended.
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Yes, I know. Sorry, I neglected to mention that small detail! However, the customer is unlikely to ever enter a EWBS or CWBS shoot, and he wanted the trailing edge less tapered.
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Nice looking arrows those - though, "qualify for EWBS/CWBS shoots" the 1/4 arrow has a rear edge as nature intended.
Kinda like this?
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Beautiful job, end to end!!!
Robby
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Nice work mate, they look to be real well made battle shafts, bet they will fly well.
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Nice!
I would wrap some thread around the base of the nock too, for safety.
We do shoot these, and other, war arrows in the Dutch Warbow Society and sometimes they splice despite the horn.
Imar
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Wow, that thread wrap looks very even. I struggle with that the most. Beautiful arrows!
George
Yes, I second that. It takes me forever.
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Wow, that thread wrap looks very even. I struggle with that the most. Beautiful arrows!
George
YEA . .. . me too. >:(
Lovely arrows.
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Nice!
I would wrap some thread around the base of the nock too, for safety.
We do shoot these, and other, war arrows in the Dutch Warbow Society and sometimes they splice despite the horn.
Imar
I usually make the horn splice fairly thick, and glue them in with epoxy. I've never had a nock split after hundreds of shots from bows up to 120#s.
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Fantastic arrows. Livery arrows? :-) Zorry. Quarter pounders. :-)
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These are some awesome arows mate!! I was wondering where you got your 1/2" shafts? I have not been able to locate any. Also, where did you get your bodkins?
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I too am looking for a source for 1/2 shaft.
I'm located in central Ontario.
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I can make the shafts if anyone needs any. I would just need the dimensions. Maple, I've found, has one of the stiffer spines for weight. Also ash..like oak is more of a club...Kevin
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Just 3 quick questions:
1. How do you get your fletching thread to wind so nice and even?
2. How to you get you knock insert to stay flush with the rest of the wood?
3. What type of quiver do you use for these arrows?
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Just 3 quick questions:
1. How do you get your fletching thread to wind so nice and even?
2. How to you get you knock insert to stay flush with the rest of the wood?
3. What type of quiver do you use for these arrows?
1. Practice and patience. Seriously... I'm not being a smartass.
2. I cut the nock insert slot in the middle of the arrow shaft (with the grain) on the bandsaw, then I cut and fit the horn piece to fit the slot, leaving it over size. I glue it in place using 5 min epoxy. After it sets, I use my belt sander to smooth out the excess glue and horn. I then taper the last 12" of shaft to 3/8" at the nock, giving the shaft a 'torpedo' profile.
3. Canvas quiver with leather disc spacer.
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Thanks for the reply mate! I greatly appreciate it! I was wondering if you happen to have a template for the leather spacer?
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Thanks for the reply mate! I greatly appreciate it! I was wondering if you happen to have a template for the leather spacer?
No, I just randomly made 24 X 1/2" holes in a round piece of leather with a punch. I think it's about 6'' in diameter.