Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Greebe on July 21, 2013, 01:01:48 am
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Hey guys. I never did make any of my own bow strings, but I am planning on making a Flemish jig and had a few questions.
First I know that typically you use a string 3" shorter for a longbow, and 4" shorter for a recurve. Now my question is whether or not the jig takes this into consideration. For instance if I have a bow that is 68" between nocks, do I use the peg hole that is labeled 68 or would I use 64" for a recurve? Which would I use if I was making a string for a longbow since there are not odd numbers on most Flemish jigs?
Also looking at the template for making the jig, it looks as if all of the numbered holes come out to be 15" longer than the AMO. I thought that usually 10-12" was standard for having enough to twist the ends.
Here is the template I am referencing to. Seems all are about the same.
(http://www.tradgang.com/stuff_bin/stringjig.jpg)
I have yet to find anything relating to my questions so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Greebe
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Yes the jig takes it into account. If your bow is 62" long then you use the 62" notch. And 8" is where i start twisting.
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Try the 68 hole and worse case is you have one to fit a longer bow plus you will know exactly what to expect on the next one. The one I built years ago is numbered for actual desired string length and not a math equation to solve ;D good luck!
Tracy
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Thanks for the replies. Yeah I originally thought if I wanted a 68" string that I just used the 68 hole. However then I noticed that would give me a 83" long piece and after twisting the loops, say at 8" on each side that would only be an inch shorter than the AMO not 3-4" shorter. Haha look at me, over thinking things again. ::)
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I over thought that process more than once and have a nail full of strings to prove it :o. Besides, everyone does their loops just different enough that the string length will vary from person to person using the same jig. You may find that you need to use another hole to make it 68 anyway. Good luck and have fun with it!
Tracy
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I built a jig from that same template. Like Bowman says, it takes everything into account so if your bow's 62" ntn then you use the peg marked 62". The directions that I've had told me to start the twisting at 7" but that's just what i know. It works for me. Good luck.
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Alright sound good. Thanks for the replies. I think I am just going to make one out of a 2x4 and then hammer in the finish nails instead of drilling all those holes. It might be more of a hassle using it with a bunch of nails in the center row, but it would be quick to build and for as many strings as I am going to be making it shouldn't be a problem. What do you guys think?
Thanks,
Greebe
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Drilling holes or just pounding in a series of finish nails makes no real big difference.
It's your thang, do whatcha wanna do!
My jig is 11 years old and I just pulled the nails out so that I only have the option of 6 strings per ply. I've never needed a string with more than a total of 12 strings. (Dacron B-50 @ about 50# test per strand means a 12 strand is 600# test strength!)
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Good point. I could probably get away with just 6 as well because I do not plan on having any bows above 50lbs. If I ever do need to make a heavier string I can always add some nails at that time.
Thanks,
Greebe
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The plans i used for my string jig is set up so if you use the hole that says 68 then it will make a 68 inch string. I tried one set up to use the nock to nock measurement and always had a hard time getting the length string i wanted. So they can be set up either way.
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Greebe,
there was an excellent article in PA. A few years ago with step by step, from jig to string. I've pulled it out and read it a dozen times. Made my jig from it, and many strings. Next time I'm in the shop I could look it up if your interested or maybe there is some way you can archive it from here
Knapper
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Greebe,
there was an excellent article in PA. A few years ago with step by step, from jig to string. I've pulled it out and read it a dozen times. Made my jig from it, and many strings. Next time I'm in the shop I could look it up if your interested or maybe there is some way you can archive it from here
Knapper
Yes I would be interested. Thanks
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I use that and sjust start twisting in a different place basedon recure or longbow if I remember to do so. If it's long, and it usualy is a bit I just twist the string till it fits right. Then serve and wax the string.
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Ok Greebe,
Here it is Oct/Nov 2010, Making the Flemish splice bow string. By Steven Gregersen. I've probably read this a dozen times or so, an excellent reference . Hope it helps.
Knapper
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Thanks but where do I find the article?
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Meh, I just make the string a few inches longer than needed, guesstimate the second loop, and twist the string until I get my desired brace height, no fancy jigs needed.
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I went ahead and made the jig. It is not too fancy, just a 2x4 with finish nails nailed in. I skipped predrilling. There really is no need on a 2x4 with finish nails. It turned out well. Now I just need to order some B50 and serving and I will be in business.
Thanks guys,
Greebe
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You can order back issues from PA.
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I never saw the slightest use in these string jigs. I just measure the tillering string and add about 35 to 40cm when I cut the FF, dacron or whatever string material. I must add, that I splice the second loop in, that makes it easier for me to judge where it has to be placed. Plus I have some freedom to play with the total length of the string.
But that's just my way...
Regards,
gian-luca
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I never saw the slightest use in these string jigs. I just measure the tillering string and add about 35 to 40cm when I cut the FF, dacron or whatever string material. I must add, that I splice the second loop in, that makes it easier for me to judge where it has to be placed. Plus I have some freedom to play with the total length of the string.
But that's just my way...
Regards,
gian-luca
Do you individually cut each string an inch shorter so you have the tapered ends?