Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: osage outlaw on September 12, 2013, 11:44:59 pm
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Here is my first attempt at stone tipped arrows. I just finished them up. I will be hunting with these in a few weeks. The points were made by Bubby and Tracy. Thanks guys! The shafts are hill cane from PatB. He provided the pitch also. Thanks Pat! This is the first time I have tried hafting stone points on arrows. I think I did it right. They seem very solid. I used heavy, outdoor, UV resistant thread for all of the wraps. I soak them in superglue two times. I still need to do that to the point wraps. Fletchings are turkey feathers dyed with Kool-Aid. Cock feather is natural color. The self nocks are painted white for visibility. I am really excited about hunting with these.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20CLINT-HP/New%20bow%20stuff/SDC15816.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20CLINT-HP/New%20bow%20stuff/SDC15815.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20CLINT-HP/New%20bow%20stuff/SDC15818.jpg)
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Looks good Clint, hope ya get some blood on them
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They ought to do the deed, Clint. How do they fly?
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I haven't shot them Pat. I made some identical arrows except with field points and they fly great.
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Be sure they fly true before hunting with them. ;) Have you tried a spin test? I spin them point down on my finger and can feel the slightest wobble.
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Yes I spun them. I'm not sure how to practice with stone points. Will it dull them?
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I've always wondered about practicing with these arrows as well. What can you shoot them into without damage? A straw bail?
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Straw bale or a large hessian bag stuffed with smaller plastic bags. Don't try to shoot a group with them because it's way too easy to destroy a nock of an arrow already in the target.
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Beautiful arrows,should do the job. :)
Pappy
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Nice looking arrows.
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Really nice work work Clint! Nothing wrong with the way you mounted them. See if you can find old sofa cushions and pull the closed cell foam squares out of the cloth and put three together. It works great for stopping the arrows without dulling the point. Shoot them on eat a time though like said. You did a real good job on that batch!
Tracy
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Sweet Clint !
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Those shafts will not split, nice job on the wrap and look very sturdy. Fine looking set...
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Nice lookin arrows Clint!! dp
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Brother, those are nice!
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You mentioned what I think is the only real problem with stone. After you have shot the arrows several times at ANY target you will be well served to "micro flake" to resharpen them. At least the 1/3 of the cutting edge from point back. A heavy weight bow will put them clean through a deer even if they are slightly dull, but for bows in the 40 to 50 range a resharpening will not hurt.
Just one old mans way, and I cant say about obsidian but all my hunting heads are flint/chert and they get resharpened. Remember that if you "feel" the edge you are not really feeling the sharp part, which is down in the valley formed by the concoidal fracturing.
Your arrows look very good by the way, hope you get the chance to fling them at a deer.
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Those finished nicely!
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Clint
Nice arrows !!
I try out mine by putting a 2" thick piece of blue foam board about a foot in front of my reg target , it stops it from penetrating into target much and has little effect on points !
I shoot them one at a time so no way they can hit each other
Once you get them tuned up put them away and only use one or two for practice !
Put leather covers on each one that you are satisfied with for hunting to further protect them !
That is the way I do it , take it or leave it !
One thing I will mention here is the thickness of the points many folks are making very thin points these days and the thinner the point the deeper it will need hafted for proper spine on the point , we don't want them breaking on impact !
Yours appear to be decent , but I cant tell how thick they are other than judging off the shafting that I don't know how thick is
Hunting equipment is something I am very cautious with I don't want anymore chance for messing up than I have to !
Well anyway good job !
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O2,
Buckeye Guy give the straight skinny on the thickness deal. I forgot to say that another important feature is having the very tip real "pointy" so the initial contact cuts the opening in the skin. Next biggest thing is the head being well "ridged" meaning their flat sides are thick to the point and taper away to the cutting edge.
I took some pictures of some of my hunting points/arrows maybe they will help with questions if you have any...
rich
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Clint,
You did a nice job on them. I've always wondered the same thing about shooting them.
DBar
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Thanks for all the compliments and advice. Tracy and Bubby made such fine points that I almost didn't want to use them. If I miss and break one I'm going to be upset. Thanks again guys.
Guy and Half eye, I tried putting the points as deep in the arrow shaft as I could. I kept notching it out until the point was about the same thickness as the end of the shaft. The pitch is covering the ends of the arrow a little. I planned on making leather covers for them. I use those on my trade points.
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Too pretty to shoot! Too deadly not to shoot!
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"Thanks for all the compliments and advice. Tracy and Bubby made such fine points that I almost didn't want to use them. If I miss and break one I'm going to be upset. Thanks again guys. "
Shoot them, I need more pit time Clint ;)
Rich, I like your arrows! Did you run pitch up over the sinew wrap or is it something else?
Tracy
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Tracy,
yes it's pitch, after setting the point and applying the sinew and letting that dry, I rewarm the head and pitch and smooth it allover the sinew. I use a small piece of flat tin that also gets warmed. The native Americans used a clam shell like a sewing thimble to do that job. I only do it because of the high humidity here.
rich
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Thank you for the info Rich! I really like the looks of them.
Tracy