Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Bryce on May 05, 2014, 01:52:23 pm
-
thought this might help a few of those i have traded vine maple with.
tools of the trade: hatchet, heat gun, Nicholson 49 rasp, farriers rasp, cabinet scraper, measuring tape. 1/8th file, and of course a couple draw knives, one sharp one for wood removal and the other dull to remove the bark.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0754_zpsfa8239fb.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0754_zpsfa8239fb.jpg.html)
picked out this mutt. this was a neutral growing stave i cut the spring before last while scouting the creek for steelhead
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0755_zps06c6a5ba.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0755_zps06c6a5ba.jpg.html)
the good ol dull draw knife makes easy work of removing the bark
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0758_zps1402bacc.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0758_zps1402bacc.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0759_zps847fb9e6.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0759_zps847fb9e6.jpg.html)
stave is 66" long, finished bow will be 64" NTN.
cleaned up the back with some 150G
and start laying out the bow.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0761_zps19358072.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0761_zps19358072.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0762_zps99da2c39.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0762_zps99da2c39.jpg.html)
once the center of the bow is lined out running a string from one end to the other, just to get a good idea how the string will most likely fall down the bow.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0768_zps613b012b.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0768_zps613b012b.jpg.html)
it falls a little the the right. not i prefer it if the string hugs the side that the arrow rest is on so this makes it easy to decide which limb is the top and which is the bottom.
1" up from the center and 3" below center give a good 4" handle. the reason for this when the bow is drawn the center of the bow rides the the crotch of the hand.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0770_zpsaf884245.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0770_zpsaf884245.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0771_zps81736d5e.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0771_zps81736d5e.jpg.html)
i like the to freehand the center line following the crest of the stave.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0776_zpsd8ddcac8.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0776_zpsd8ddcac8.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0777_zps6dd6e2a9.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0777_zps6dd6e2a9.jpg.html)
laying out the rest of the handle and the fades. the middle of the handle is 1 1/2" wide and the top and bottom is 3/4" wide and the fades length is 2 1/2" and 1 5/8"wide(wide dimensions now this way if there is a need to do some side tillering, that option is available)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0781_zpsae787eee.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0781_zpsae787eee.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0780_zps74ca704b.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0780_zps74ca704b.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0782_zpsf48fa0db.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0782_zpsf48fa0db.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0783_zpsa2e9b140.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0783_zpsa2e9b140.jpg.html)
then from each end of the stave ill make marks, so that the the tips (1'' in from the ends) are 1/2" wide.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0785_zps75f0298f.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0785_zps75f0298f.jpg.html)
then i like to free hand the width taper
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0786_zpsf0b6253c.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0786_zpsf0b6253c.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0791_zps87a0a3ae.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0791_zps87a0a3ae.jpg.html)
all layed out and ready to be roughed out into the shape of a bow :)
-
This will be a good one Brycey boy! Looks like a clean stave to boot.
-
Nice, VM is becoming my favourite bowwood. Maybe because I have a shed full.
I will be following this for sure
-
Thx Bryce. I have two VMs on the bench right now so I'll be watching for sure!
-
Sweet man I'll be watching this one ! Looks like its gonna be a challenge !
-
one comment bryce...wish you would have done this sooner...lol..and sorry the stave you sent me didnt survive..and i even had blackhawks help..!!..(psst ..im blami.g him ..though it wasnt his fault..
lol)
-
sorry to hear that but i just got a little t spare time to start this build.
-
im feeling a little sore today so i opted out of the hatchet and drawknife and went to the band saw.
i stayed about 1/8-1/16'' outside the lines just, and cut out the profile.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0792_zps69c28b7f.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0792_zps69c28b7f.jpg.html)
then squared up the edge with the farriers rasp, then the 49 and then scraped it clean.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0794_zps704629eb.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0794_zps704629eb.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0795_zps35a6d981.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0795_zps35a6d981.jpg.html)
next ill lay out the thickness taper. handle is 1 1/4" thick and the fades are 3/4" thick and tapers the 1/2" at the tips
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0796_zps43af38db.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0796_zps43af38db.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0800_zps2783748d.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0800_zps2783748d.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0801_zpsdc221e98.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0801_zpsdc221e98.jpg.html)
then cut out the thickness lines its a good idea to keep the stave at an angle so you dont take wood off the other side by accident.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0802_zps248b381b.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0802_zps248b381b.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0803_zpse471b5b3.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0803_zpse471b5b3.jpg.html)
ill knock of the little ridge and make it nice and flat with the rasp's
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0804_zps0a052981.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0804_zps0a052981.jpg.html)
STOP! most important step!
eat a sandwich!
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0806_zps2066a2d7.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0806_zps2066a2d7.jpg.html)
next up. floor tillering
-
This is looking great Bryce. Can't wait to see what happens next :). I am getting ready soon to cut some more mountain maple. This will be very helpful because I want to make a stiff handle one next and I have a bendy one to make for someone. Thanks for taking the time and doing this :)
-
So far the only step I know I'm going to be really good at is eating the sandwich :laugh:
Great job so far, Bryce. Looking forward to the rest.
-
Cool! That one looks kinda wiggly! Josh
-
Wait! Hold it. Just hold it!.......... What kind of sandwich?
-
Wait! Hold it. Just hold it!.......... What kind of sandwich?
Clearly peanut butter ;)
Oh, the build along is looking awesome too :laugh:
As a newbie, it's always extremely helpful to see the process others go through.
-
Good job man, very nice so far. Note to self, get a band saw it saves a whole day of work!
I will be watching this, because I would like to obtain a vine maple stave one day! Patrick
-
Dude, I'm glad you are doing this! Very cool so far!
-
Looking awesome!!!! This is on my list of woods I want to try, love your build a longs.....you're done with that sandwich yet ???
-
Watching with interest!
-
Thanks guys, so far so good:)
Wait! Hold it. Just hold it!.......... What kind of sandwich?
It's peanut butter and raw unprocessed honey:D
Good job man, very nice so far. Note to self, get a band saw it saves a whole day of work!
I will be watching this, because I would like to obtain a vine maple stave one day! Patrick
Oh yeah saves a good couple hours of work that's for sure, but I like doing things the hard way, just not when I'm beat up:D
Echo archery has some really nice staves available:)
-
I really like your technique Bryce. The only thing I might suggest is leaving the handle wide until you can do a low brace on the bow. That way you have some room to fine tune the string alignment.
-
Sweet build-a-long! I love using maple...... we have Douglas maple here, very similar to vine maple. Makes a snappy bow, takes heat treating really well.
-
I really like your technique Bryce. The only thing I might suggest is leaving the handle wide until you can do a low brace on the bow. That way you have some room to fine tune the string alignment.
good call gordon! thats something i always forget, hopefully we wont have that problem ;D
-
Looks like you're going parallel to about 8" from tip?
-
Nope. Just a really gentle taper dan-o
-
Nice work Bryce. You sure getting some use out of that band-saw! ;)
-
I'll check it out, thanks Bryce!
-
Great build along so far. I like the pictures and your comments. You seem to be pretty knowledgable for a young man ;)
-
Great build along so far. I like the pictures and your comments. You seem to be pretty knowledgable for a young man ;)
only knowledgeable bc of the good ppl here on PA. not to mention the countless texts and phone calls ive made to other bowyers.
Carson, Weylin, Gordon, John Kelly, Keenan Howard, Josh Barnes, Chris Kefunipaaaaaaahhh (dude idk how to spell or pronounce your last name) have all dropped a little bit of "know how" into my bowyers cup. not to mention the books ive read on the subject.
a little bit here and there and learning from not just your own but others mistakes can go a long way, and not just when it comes to making bows :D
cheers
-Bryce
-
all roughed out shes still a little on the stiff side
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0820_zpsac8f5fff.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0820_zpsac8f5fff.jpg.html)
take some wood off and i like to bend it in the vice to superficially floor tiller the stave.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0826_zps341e6b4d.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0826_zps341e6b4d.jpg.html)
hmm... a little more.
there we go
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0829_zps693dba50.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0829_zps693dba50.jpg.html)
im going to reflex the tips a little bit.
i run my fingers up and down the end of the limb to make sure the taper is good. few scrapes here and there and sand it smooth.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0833_zps2d124549.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0833_zps2d124549.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0831_zps9bb78f72.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0831_zps9bb78f72.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0834_zps61262d66.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0834_zps61262d66.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0835_zpsbc862b1d.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0835_zpsbc862b1d.jpg.html)
i like to boil wood for bending tips. doesnt matter what wood, boiling has never given me any problems. with dry heat you might crack or tear the wood or not get the amount of bend you desire so i always boil.
got my single burner propane stove on ill get the water to boiling stick the wood in for 25 mins and then make the bend in my favorite reflex form.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0836_zps69c3c2da.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0836_zps69c3c2da.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0839_zps6a553919.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0839_zps6a553919.jpg.html)
working quick is crucial
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0840_zps8beb53a4.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0840_zps8beb53a4.jpg.html)
set a few clamps and the form is long so i can still align the tips and the handle on a wiggly stave.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0841_zpsfd875097.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0841_zpsfd875097.jpg.html)
TIME FOR A PICKLE! :D
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0844_zps752e222e.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0844_zps752e222e.jpg.html)
after about 4 hours and a couple more pickles, im going to set the bend with dry eat. a light temper.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0845_zpsc6dd2743.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0845_zpsc6dd2743.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0848_zps41a966b4.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0848_zps41a966b4.jpg.html)
while i let that cool for a half hour or so, might as well rough out another bow :laugh:
then ill do the other side.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0849_zpsff18c303.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0849_zpsff18c303.jpg.html)
-
Awesome build along! Thanks for taking the time to do it!
-
ME LIKE :) :) :)
How long are you going to let those tips dry out?
-
Yes Sir!
Lovin It!
I'll be A-Watchin'...
Now all I gotta do is find I piece of Vine Maple... :)
-gus
-
thanx for the post
chuck
-
Nice build Bryce. I always enjoy seeing someone elses process.
-
Nice Build- Along. Do you always bring the water to a boil and then stick the stave in? Apparently the chances of cracking are diminished if you put the stave in cold water and then bring it to a boil and raise the wood temp gradually.
Probably depends on the wood type as well.
-
Pat you bring up a good point!
With dark woods like yew,, juniper I will put the wood in before boiling and then start the timer when it comes to a boil.
With dense woods such as oceanspray, osage, and ipe I will soak the wood either over night or a few days. Then boil. with this method you can Bend the wood around a coffee cup without tearing or raising a splinter:)
Vine maple is a stretchy and fiberous wood so a straight boil is sufficient :)
Thank for the input!
-
Interesting work, Bryce. Thank you for that.
-
I've had pretty bad luck with bending, but just tonight I boiled a yew stave for an hour and got a really nice bend with no tear out.
Thanks for this, I really haven't been able to find much info on boil bending.
How much time do you give it before you start working it again. I was told a few days for steam, but should you wait longer for boiling?
-
Tell us more about you luck with bending Ipe by boiling. Many say that Ipe won't budge no matter what you do but I have found old references that it was prized for making bentwood furniture in South America and that it bends very well. Is making it "green" again the key?
Sorry for the hijack.
-
Great Build-Along Bryce. I'm tuned in and watching.
-
Youre a pickle eatin, bow makin freak O' nature ! That vine maple looks like some cool wood to work with, is it similar to Crepe Myrtle ?
Very niiiiice high five (borat voice)
-
Out here in Orygun we have vine maple.
Really enjoying your post Bryce. I'll have to try boiling some tips.
I have a viney stave that has about 4" of reflex. Hope to make time to start on it soon.
-
I've had pretty bad luck with bending, but just tonight I boiled a yew stave for an hour and got a really nice bend with no tear out.
Thanks for this, I really haven't been able to find much info on boil bending.
How much time do you give it before you start working it again. I was told a few days for steam, but should you wait longer for boiling?
You could probably get away with about 25mins per 1/2" thickness.
Tell us more about you luck with bending Ipe by boiling. Many say that Ipe won't budge no matter what you do but I have found old references that it was prized for making bentwood furniture in South America and that it bends very well. Is making it "green" again the key?
Sorry for the hijack.
It's fine, ipe is by far the hardest to secure a good bend but soaking for a few days and boiling and setting with the heat gun have givin me good reasults.
Ipe was around 1/4" or 3/16" thick at the tips can't remember.
Thanks Elijah:D I've never work myrtle so I have no idea
Sounds like a nice stave Dave.
-
Hey bryce, in my question I meant how long do you wait to work the bow after you do your boil bends?
-
After boiling i wait about 4 hrs. Set with dry heat and then work the bow the next day.
-
very nice, thank you for your effort.
Greetz
Cord
-
when the stave is unclamped you can see there is very minimal spring back. but with every selfbow they will pull out just a bit which is something taken into account when building forms and cauls:)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0867_zpsbd765535.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0867_zpsbd765535.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0870_zps091bebf5.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0870_zps091bebf5.jpg.html)
well lets put some temporary nocks
measuring 1" from the tip and make a mark, then using my square draw a line. where the line meets the belly of the bow ill make another mark. i do this on both sides to make sure the nocks line up nicely.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0871_zps4e825848.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0871_zps4e825848.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0882_zps6628df54.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0882_zps6628df54.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0883_zps0c9a66d1.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0883_zps0c9a66d1.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0915_zpsfc32be3d.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0915_zpsfc32be3d.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0888_zps0ef2de5b.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0888_zps0ef2de5b.jpg.html)
using a triangle file i start the nocks and then finish them up with the 1/8" file. then clean it up with some 220 so when the stave is strung it doesnt split the side of the nock off.
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0893_zpsc0d33c6e.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0893_zpsc0d33c6e.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0894_zps84b43e32.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0894_zps84b43e32.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0895_zps7375ba27.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0895_zps7375ba27.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0898_zps67b41dda.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0898_zps67b41dda.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0911_zps5dbc2248.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0911_zps5dbc2248.jpg.html)
now that im gonna start doing some serious bending its time to really clean the back up. 220-320-steelwool, rounding the edge as well. then i like the take an antler tine and burnish the back. pushing down any end fibers that might be sticking up. youll notice when burnishing that it gets shiny :)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0916_zps8d0cab2e.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0916_zps8d0cab2e.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0917_zps7ed65f05.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0917_zps7ed65f05.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0918_zps00600abb.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0918_zps00600abb.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0925_zps43dfa95d.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0925_zps43dfa95d.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p696/Bryce_Ott/DSCN0924_zpsf33efd5c.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/Bryce_Ott/media/DSCN0924_zpsf33efd5c.jpg.html)
next up tillering!
-
Looking good Bryce. I have never thought to burnish the back before tillering. Do you think it helps splinters from lifting?
-
Very good tips on the nocks and the burnishing of the back. I think I will follow this to the T on my next bow. I see a lot of things I could improve on already. Thanks again, Patrick.
-
You may want to consider burnishing the leading edge of the nocks Bryce. I've been lucky enough to not have the string split the back of a bow but heard of this happening. Burnishing the leading edge of the nock helps to prevent the fibers from separating under pressure from the string.
-
I did dan-o :)
-
Looking good Bryce. I have never thought to burnish the back before tillering. Do you think it helps splinters from lifting?
I would like to think so. Strunk mentioned it once in a passing conversation. That's why I do it now.
Even before I did the burnishing I've never had a bow lift a splinter. I know that sounds obsured. I've had bows come in underweight and I've had a couple explode. But making sure your back is baby butt smooth is an important step:)
-
baby butt smooth before heat bending and burnish back...now i know...its all good..lol
-
I used to burnish the backs of my bows, but I don't bother anymore. I have not seen any evidence that it helps, but I don't think it hurts either. Burnishing the edges of your self nocks, however, is a good idea, especially with softer wood like yew and hazelnut.
-
Burnishing the edges of your self nocks, however, is a good idea, especially with softer wood like yew and hazelnut.
Yep!:)
I didnt show it but when I burnished the back I rolled the antler into the nocks.
-
Burnishing is one of those things I've heard pros and cons on for years. I am not sure why I started, I believe I read about it in one of the books by a native American. I believe they did it to help keep moisture out of the bow. I'm sure there were other reasons they did it. I do know that it is difficult to stain after burnishing, so that should be done before hand if one intends to stain.
I started burnishing my second or third bow and have done every one since then. I will do the whole bow once it is finished.
Like you, I do the back and sides before tillering.
-
Great build along Pinecone
-
Burnishing is one of those things I've heard pros and cons on for years. I am not sure why I started, I believe I read about it in one of the books by a native American. I believe they did it to help keep moisture out of the bow. I'm sure there were other reasons they did it. I do know that it is difficult to stain after burnishing, so that should be done before hand if one intends to stain.
I started burnishing my second or third bow and have done every one since then. I will do the whole bow once it is finished.
Like you, I do the back and sides before tillering.
It sure doesn't hurt.
-
do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related ;)
-
do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related ;)
+1
-
do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related ;)
Depends on how soon I want to work the stave. When I cut I mark the tension side. I have a lot of VM staves and I leave them in log form until I want to work them. And I'll just run it through the band saw separating the tension side (<--the good stuff) from the compression side. If the stave starts to curl up too much, I'll clamp it down for a few weeks. The good thing about VM is once it's opened up it dries relatively quick:) especially in a hot box;)
-
Cool thanks, i'll try full log out. Cheers
-
Hey Bryce do you toss the other half of the split? The non compression side.
-
I was recently picking the brain of a guy who's been making VM bows for over 20 years. He never tosses the compression side, but doesn't use it for his heavy bows, above 60#. Tension wood is no doubt better, but compression wood still makes bows
-
Good to know.
-
The compression side will make a bow, but there will be nothing special about the way it shoots.
Yes I toss them, or mill them for lam bows.
-
Compression vine maple makes great tipi fire wood. Burns hot, doesn't spark and hardly smokes.
-
Sounds like a voice of experience Gordon!
-
How's the viney bending? Any update? I've been enjoying this build.
-
Ima Watching this one. Looking good :)
-
Sorry gentleman got busy. I'll update as soon as I can.
-
Hey Bryce do you split or cut your maple?
-
Hey Bryce do you split or cut your maple?
Bandsaw. VM can easily handle the grain violation.
-
Do you halve them while green with the bandsaw, or wait till they are seasoned?
-
Do you halve them while green with the bandsaw, or wait till they are seasoned?
do you season your VM in log form, or split them? Ive been splitting, but even ones strapped to 2x4s seem to curl right up.
some reflex is good, but extreme reflex is tough to work with. sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread, but its VM related ;)
Depends on how soon I want to work the stave. When I cut I mark the tension side. I have a lot of VM staves and I leave them in log form until I want to work them. And I'll just run it through the band saw separating the tension side (<--the good stuff) from the compression side. If the stave starts to curl up too much, I'll clamp it down for a few weeks. The good thing about VM is once it's opened up it dries relatively quick:) especially in a hot box;)
-
Sorry man I knew I read that ::)
-
I WANT MORE,I WANT MORE...SORRY,i just wanted to act like a bone head...HEHE..
-
Sweet, love the build along. There's always time for a pickle break
-
John I plan on doing the tillering at the gathering:)
-
Is this still going on? I'm anxiously waiting. Bryce, I hope it's going good. :)
-
Yes! Just had some shooting events and helping my mother move. But we'll be back on track soon
-
Hurry up already Bryce! I been holding my breath for the big finale and I'm gettin kinda blue over here! >:D. Lol! Just kidding. I am looking forward to seeing it finished though. Josh
-
Hey Bryce, how's the build coming buddy?
-
What ever happened to this build Bryce?
You had us all on the edge of our seats!
-
Funny I was thinking the same thing just yesterday
-
I'm waiting to start one.....come on Bryce!,!!
-
I think Bryce has a lot on his plate at home right now. I'm sure he'll get back to this (I'm looking forward to it also), but last time I heard from him he seemed pretty busy.
Gabe
-
I think Bryce has a lot on his plate at home right now. I'm sure he'll get back to this (I'm looking forward to it also), but last time I heard from him he seemed pretty busy.
Gabe
I think a sexy little blonde has him distracted lately.
-
Well that will do it for sure.
-
with the honey he has..HE is done for...i dont blame him one bit..
-
Sorry guys:( still haven't got my new shop put back together:/
Hopefully after hunting season.
I think Bryce has a lot on his plate at home right now. I'm sure he'll get back to this (I'm looking forward to it also), but last time I heard from him he seemed pretty busy.
Gabe
I think a sexy little blonde has him distracted lately.
A lot of both😊
with the honey he has..HE is done for...i dont blame him one bit..
Hahaha you know that's right john:)
-
Very eagerly awaiting the next chapter!
-
Nice, VM is becoming my favourite bowwood. Maybe because I have a shed full.
I will be following this for sure
Keep it safe! I had a garage full of elm, until a little borer of some kind that I've never had trouble with before showed up and ate it all. And they ate some plum, some yellow locust (just into the sapwood, thankfully), and some MAPLE. Mine was Great Basin canyon maple, and my climate is different, but whatever this is doesn't seem to picky about specie.
-
Even before I did the burnishing I've never had a bow lift a splinter. I know that sounds obsured. I've had bows come in underweight and I've had a couple explode. But making sure your back is baby butt smooth is an important step:)
I can't credit bnurnishing, but I haven't broken many bows, either. My first 20 or so all survived. But I sure made a LOT of kids' bows back then!
So, I'm late to the party, but as an old hat, I am both learning and noticing things on your build. A few comments ok?
Gopod to know ipe can be bent. I gave up pre-bending tropicals, but will try again.
I am NOT good at the thickness layout thing where you scribe the line. I have to use a caliper or homemade spanner for initial layout. Probably because I mostly work with lumpy sapling staves of small diameter. But, any tips?
And, also because of the 3" dia sapling thing, I usually just try to start with straight bark on a tree, and lay the bow out following the crown more than the grain. Any tips for following grain on a white, non-grainy wood like V-maple?
Burnishing helps. I learned to do it before tillering on some elm staves with pin knots and stick-ups, and it helps.
-
Regarding Vine maple curling up.
I find this terribly common on all white woods, if you cut a small log, sapling or branch. Elm and plum do it something awful, warping every which way, even if I leave them full width.
I have learned to CLAMP wood to dry, with shims and "hard" clamps like C-clamps, or even big nails pounded in and bent over. And I count on clamping it firmly as I heat treat it
-
I think Bryce has a lot on his plate at home right now. I'm sure he'll get back to this (I'm looking forward to it also), but last time I heard from him he seemed pretty busy. Gabe
This happens to me EVERY time I start a cool project!
-
after about 4 hours and a couple more pickles, im going to set the bend with dry eat. a light temper.
Sure is a lota eatin goin on in this build. ;)
So when you "dry eat" do you just eat a lot of pickles without drinking fluid afterward? Just pickles or will sandwiches work
better? Does it work with any wood or just Vine Maple?
Hmmmm. I'll have to try that on my next bow..... >:D
-
I think Bryce has a lot on his plate at home right now. I'm sure he'll get back to this (I'm looking forward to it also), but last time I heard from him he seemed pretty busy. Gabe
This happens to me EVERY time I start a cool project!
I have my shop put back together and will be returning to this build the first part of December.
-
Great to hear Bryce. How has everything been going. Hope all is well. Good luck on finals :)
-
Good, to see you back Bryce! Hope you're doing well! I know how that school stuff goes! I graduated 1.5 years ago and I didn't know what to do with myself for a while. Patrick
-
Regarding Vine maple curling up.
I find this terribly common on all white woods, if you cut a small log, sapling or branch. Elm and plum do it something awful, warping every which way, even if I leave them full width.
I have learned to CLAMP wood to dry, with shims and "hard" clamps like C-clamps, or even big nails pounded in and bent over. And I count on clamping it firmly as I heat treat it
I've never worked with vine maple, ...but I found a good solution for the curling warping issue with drying white woods. ...and it serves as a good way to justify my holding on to some of the old junk in my garage I just couldn't bring myself to throw away - thru multiple moves and garage cleanings. Old bed frames are basically angle iron with some doo-dads hanging off of them. I always thought I'd find a use for them - but never did. So, now I do! ...I knock the casters off and then bind a wet/green stave or bow blank into the angle iron. It even allows me to pull some of the natural bend and twist of the stave out of it as it dries. If you haven't been carting around a half dozen of these like I have for last couple decades, - they are usually pretty easy to come by at yard sales and such.
OneBow