Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: lenador on October 06, 2014, 02:59:14 pm
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After hunting through hardware stores I was able to find only one decent piece of red oak and it was 1.5" x 1.5". I figured it should make a decent D bow and I wouldn't llos much if I mess it up. The board has some nice straight growth rings with some thicker ones on what I plan to be the back. I plan to chase the ring on it even though that seems to not be a thing on board bows. I figure since I olan in building Osage stave bows after this it will be good practice and I would figure that having nonrun outs would be best?
Starting points are 1.5" wide and about 5/8" thick.
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Shooting for 26" of draw
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/IMG_20141006_125222193.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/IMG_20141006_125222193.jpg.html)
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Nice and straight on that face of the board.....what do the side faces look like? If they look just like that, you're good to go....If the grain runs off at any kind of angle, there could be problems depending on how steep the angle.....
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Someone correct me if I am wrong but if that is the widest part you can’t chase a ring on that one. The
TOP of the board
grain looks like it should run ||||| or \\\\\ or ///// as seen from the end.
Bottom of the board
Now if it ran top-> ((( <- Bottom then you could chase a ring. I would like to see the ends and sides. You will get run off where you start your limb taper to the tips ya can't stop it. But that is a great looking piece from that little piece you showed us. Can’t wait to see more.
I am a novice at this so I hope other chime in. O:) :o
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You can't case a ring on quarter saw or rift cut lumber! Chasing rings is for osage and the such.
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Yeah, no need to chase a ring. Can't really chase a ring on that type of lumber unless it was also very deep. Many an unbacked board bow has been made with an excellent, straight grained back for the back of the bow.
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I'm a novice but I figured not having rings run off the board would help the bow resist cracking. Let me try to show what I am doing to help everyone understand what I'm trying to do. Maybe there is a miscommunication on my part as a novice.
Top IIII bottom. The picture I posted would have been then side profile. Left side being the back and right side being the belly.
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From what I can gather, your board has a square cross-section of 1.5"x1.5" and the picture you showed us is of the right side of the board. Your question is whether or not you could or should chase a ring, correct? If so, then we really can't say for certain without seeing pics of the back and end grain at the very least.
If the grain is perfectly straight on the back and the growth rings are perfectly parallel to the back, then you could chase a ring, but whether or not you should really comes down to a personal choice. My personal opinion is that it isn't worth the effort. You seem to have a beautiful straight grained face to use as a back. There will be plenty of time for learning to chase a ring later. But, like I said, it's up to you.
If you post some more pics, it will really help us to understand your situation and offer more detailed advice.
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Yeah exactly. Its a 1.5" x 1.5" piece of red oak. I'll have to get some pics. The grain is basically flat. It has a little pitch enough to where one ring is barely complete across the width. So about a 1/16th" difference from side to side.
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(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/IMG_20141008_073956273.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/IMG_20141008_073956273.jpg.html)
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I would not chase a ring on that but you could.
More on my site.
Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
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Like Buubles says ........."no need to chase a ring. " 1.5" is not very wide for a board. I make lam bows @ 1.5" but there again different animal. 70% of the time I end up with prop twist on narrow limbs. Maybe its just me but I despise twist, a little twist is ok but I still hate it. >:D
Kind of like soup with to much salt, its still edible but you cannot take the salt out. >:D
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I came up with this piece because I found a build along with these dimensions. If you all thing that I could just straight cut this then that's how I'll go. What is a good thickness fonyou think? I was trying to eliminate the what seems to be infamous cracking of the red oak board bow.
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I assumed you were showing us what you intended to be the back when you had the pics of those grain lines. You could chase a ring, if you want, and 1.5" wide is enough for a bend in the handle 'D' bow as you said in your original post. Jawge has a lot of good stuff on his site about Red Oak "D" bows. It helped me make my first unbacked boardie.
Just make sure, if you do decide to chase a ring, you have enough meat (thickness)still left all along the entire length of the bow to get decent poundage. For a 66" long D bow, my bow at the thickest point (handle) is around 3/4" thick.
I feel like red oak is more famous for chrysalling than cracking.
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I'm going to browse through jawges site here tonight and see what I can learn.
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Thanks, bubbles.
lenador, there is a buildalong for red oak boards on my site. You can vary t width to 1 3/8" and potentially get 45-50# if you do your tillering well.
Note that the bow has no narrowed handle and no glued on piece.
Jawge
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(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/IMG_20141009_123250862.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/IMG_20141009_123250862.jpg.html)
I've decided to continue to chase the ring on this because it'll be good practice. Might not help or really be worth while in terms of the performance of of this bow but I'm the kind of guy that believes experience is invaluable. From what I've seen of Osage, chasing the rings in this oak is really tough. But I'm enjoying it because its kind of like building a relationship. I'm learning a lot by just looking at the woods lines and figuring what its wanting to do.
BTW. There is tons of great info in your site jawge. That ks for that.
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good luck and keep us up to date.
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Don't build to close a relationship yet. Bows can be a fickle mistress ;) ;)
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Here is my progress. Going a lot smoother now I started properly using the draw knife. (http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141010_201732176.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141010_201732176.jpg.html)
How do I work out this little bit of middle layer of wood. I don't know what its called exactly but its the thin layer between the two growth rings but its in a sort of low spot in the area. I've been sanding them out but its really really time consuming to do that. There has to be a better way.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141010_201644998.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141010_201644998.jpg.html)
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Scrape it with a pocket knife.
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Scrape it with a pocket knife.
+1
That "thin layer between the growth rings" is known as early wood. The thicker, more dense portion is known as late wood. A single growth ring is actually comprised of one layer of each.
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Ahhh. Another case of the KISS method.
Okay that makes sense. Well this once beautiful tree that was sawed into its doom as household lumber is slowly becoming a stick again....I think it likes it.
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Lookin' good! You're making me want to start chasing rings on oak.
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After a sharp learning curve I feel good while working the bow down now.
I've got the whole back ring chased down and I just have to work the remaining early wood out of the dips and spots I missed. Then I'll be on to the belly of the bow. I left the 1 extra ring on the back figuring I can always take more off and you never know what's going to happen during tillering. So it is 5/8ths thick plus a ring so more like 3/4ish.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141014_184014120.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141014_184014120.jpg.html)
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You clean out the valleys with a curved nose scraper like the one in the top right of the picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/bowmakingtools.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/bow%20making/bowmakingtools.jpg.html)
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Is that something you made your self?
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Back is chased down with a ring left for a buffer. The belly is chased all the way down flat. Looks really nice, has no twist and has a small amount of curve. That curve will.lend it self to the set.
I guess I kind of don't know where to go from here. I should rough out the fades and Knicks and start long string tillering but there is not a bunch of info on bend through handle fades that I could find. I'm going to have to do my research.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141016_183623820.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141016_183623820.jpg.html)
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The term "fade" refers to the transition from working (bending) limb to static (non-bending) handle area. A bend through the handle bow doesn't really have fades because it doesn't have a static handle. The handle is not narrowed much if at all and is just thick enough to bend slightly at full draw.
Your next step would be to draw the profile shape on the back of the bow. Refer to "Building a board bow" on George's website.
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There is no fades. Start at the tips and get them bending. Then gradually work your way to the center. U can buy old up the grip with leather or coke after ur done if u want more of a bulbua handle.
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See this is where I'm getting confused. The mite u read the less I know. I've read that if the handle doesn't bend through the handle until full draw is just called a working handle and not a bending handle. Also, jawges board bow covers the typical board bow which mine is no linger a board bow I feel. With chased rings its more of a natural stave.
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Don't over think it. The wood will tell you what it wants to be. It looks good so far. Are you going for a non bending handle?
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Rich (half eye) had a great build along that helped me with d bows as did Gordon. They are in the howto section. Rich made marks equal spaces from the center to the tips about 6-8" the used a sander (I use a scraper with a sharp bur) and you sand down from handle to tipI think 10 times (don't quote me but check it out) then move to the next mark closer to the tip and repeat. The idea is you are getting a slight taper. By the end of removal the either side of the handle would have about 10 sanding strokes and the tip end would have more like 80 or so. Rough numbers and I prob butchered explaining this so go check it out. I'll try and find it and post a link. :)
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I'm going for a bend through the handle design. I guess I'm not afraid to just wing it but what I fear is that I'll be able to produce a nice working bow but it will have a low draw weight. I'm not afraid to completely fail just to create something unusable for my self. DNR requires 40 lb draw or more here for hunting.
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I couldn't find the build along >:(. If some can please post ;)
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There are ways to up a draw weight if it comes in low. Just go slow, check the progress a lot. My first bow I checked the tiller about 500 times. By my fourth I may have only checked it about 10. My first 3 were red oak.
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After a little researching of what I want I've come that the Cherokee style bow is what I'm shooting for. Diamond style nocks. No taper in the width. As long as I can get at least 40# at 26-27" I'll be happy.
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If that is what you want to try and make you should consider at least tapering the last 12" of the tips. That will help reduce the hand shock when the arrow is released. Just taper it to about 1/2" knocks. You can shape the tips how ever you want to when you're done. Red oak in my experience likes to be a little wider and the limb thickness on a, let's say, a 40lb bow is thicker than one would think. JMO, Patrick
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I think a Cherokee style bow is a good fit for that stave. But you should know that Cherokee bows do have a gradual width taper. The taper may be less than with other types of bows but it is there. If you were to make a bow with no width taper at all, then the excess mass at the limb tips would render it extremely sluggish.
It kind of sounds like your getting too caught up in your research. That's understandable seeing as this is your first bow, but one thing to keep in mind is it's just a piece of wood. You can't learn everything about making bows without actually making some bows, and your gonna make some mistakes. I guess what I'm trying to say is just go for it already. If your first bow doesn't turn out just how you want or it breaks, you accept it and learn from it. Try to figure out what your mistake was and once you do move on to the next one. Your failures, when properly examined, will teach you far more than anyone on here can.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that you shouldn't do any more research. I'm just say that at some point you just have to dive in. In the meantime, I recommend you get a copy The Bowyer's Bible Vol. 1 if you can.
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I agree with you guys. I just need to go for it and learn from it. Especially with the internet you learn that almost no body agrees and everyone has thier own way.
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Its true that we all have our own opinions and unique perspectives, but I think that's the beauty of it all. You ask a question and you get several different ideas. Each will have its own merits and drawbacks but you get to decide which one you want to try, and if you don't like it you can try another. You'll mix and match elements picked up from others until one day you'll be offering newcomers your own unique perspective and ideas.
Remember this is a hobby. Don't get hung up on getting it perfect the first time out, and just have some fun. And above all, don't get discouraged.
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So I jumped in and tapered the side from center to tip very slightly. I rough sanded the entire thing and gave it some floor tillering checks. I got both side feeling even but it felt very stiff. So I measured it and found that with about 4" from the back if the bow to where the string would run its pulling 50lbs. So I'm assuming I need to entirely thin the whole thing down.
Also I found that bow to have it own little kink about 6" below the center. Makes it look goofy when looking at the tiller.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141018_174049121_HDR.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141018_174049121_HDR.jpg.html)
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I took some thickness off the belly and cut the nocks. I made a make shift rig to check the tiller. The last 15" or so towards the tips need to bendy more. Most of the bend is still coming through the middle section.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/PicsArt_1413743376791.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PicsArt_1413743376791.jpg.html)
The distance between the lines is about 8" and its pulling 50lbs so I need to vet those tips flexing. Once I get them flexing I'll go from there.
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Yeah,don't touch the. Handle area.if you have a store bought bow you could flex it on the floor to get an idea of what a floor tiller should look like.i get my tips bending and work my way towards the handle.more bend at midlimb and less towards the handle.if the wood takes set at the handle it will equal a boatload at the tips.try to keep the set just shy or the mid limbs.also I would shorten up that string to where it's a little struggle to get on,it will give a more accurate reading.good luck!
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Keep in mind you're using a VERY long string which will also give you a false sense of your tiller picture. Try to make your long string just long enough to slip over the nocks.
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Yeah that's what I was just researching. I figured that the steep string angle changes the way it flexed. But I was afraid that bracing it prematurely might be a bad idea as well
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Just a string the same lenght as the bow
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Per request.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141019_151426195.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141019_151426195.jpg.html)
Drawing 40lbs in this picture.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141019_151325617.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141019_151325617.jpg.html)
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I would remove the string and refloor tiller.is the string tight or is the bow showing set?
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The string is tight.
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Sorry,i ment just long enough to get on but not to short as to make it bend for now.
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Okay. I was having a hard time with the whole floor tiller. Seems like I can't get a good look at it. But it is something I want to practice because I'd like to make a survival bow some day and I plan to make more bows.
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Your basically bendy in the middle. And no where else. Since it's a flat board draw a slight taper on the edge from tip to fade. That will be your basic taper then add sting and tiller. Don't pull back any farther than u need to to see a problem
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Floor tiller to me is more of a feel and not what it looks like. It is the feel of how it bends, and where it bends. Some members here don't even use a tiller rack.
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Yeah the floor tiller definitely helped me get it where it is. At first it was mostly bending on just the onenside and I could feel the handle pull away so could really just feel it. But I'm sure as I make more bows I get more of a feel.
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Looks like your off to a great start. It's been said already, but stay away from the middle for a bit and try to get the outer limbs bending a little more.
Be sure not to leave it on the tiller stick any longer than is absolutely necessary. You just want to get a look at the tiller and then get it off of there 'cause the longer its held drawn the more stressed it will be. And that translates to more set.
Good luck and have fun.
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Thanks,
Yeah I'm going to take a taper off from the tip to the beginning of the widths taper and see where that gets me.
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I use floor tillering as an opportunity to sight down the length of the limb. You can tell a lot about the curve and how it's bending that way. You can spot flat spots and where it's bending too much. It should make a nice arc like it would sighting down a finished bow. Kind of like sighting down your arrows to see the crooked spots. Only after it's looks like it's bending smoothly do I even put it on the tree to look at it that way with a long string or sometimes I go right to brace.
Like everyone else said: get the outer limbs coming around more....stay away from the middle....all your set is right in the middle.
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I re floor tillered it and felt good about it. Threw it on the stand at a 5.5" brace and this picture is pulling 42lbs at 24". As you can see the left side needs some work. I'll pull it off and work on that and see where I'm at. After this picture it has 1.5" of set. Some.if that is from the natural kink it had to begins with.
:)(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141021_181428227.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141021_181428227.jpg.html)
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A better view
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/PicsArt_1413978461231.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PicsArt_1413978461231.jpg.html)
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Looks like your getting the hang of it
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Trying at least. Never stop learning!
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Still looks a bit stiff outer limb. Looking good. Try using an oval under the belly of the bow, that way you can see better what needs to go where.
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The left side is what really needs help.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/PicsArt_1413981670933.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PicsArt_1413981670933.jpg.html)
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HAHA, see, I was wrong! Looks good. I like the oval, but I do have a grid on my tiller rack.
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Looking good, try to find yourself a neutral background. Patrick
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It may bend different in your hand. I tiller the last few inches in my hand. And make a video of me drawing it and see how even and what needs work. Looks a lot better! Keep up the good work
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(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141022_130110.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141022_130110.jpg.html)
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the whole bendy thing gets you OCD, doesn't it. take your time.
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That looks pretty good to these eyes. Better than my first
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Tiller looks good.
If you realy want to have it spot on- I'd suggest
the use of eric krewson's tillering gismo.
A great litte thing that can make your
bows hinge free...
Anyway, looking good so far.
I'm working on a red oak bow too.. I hope I'll finish it shortly and post it...
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Looks way better!I would get the mid limbs to bend a bit more if you have the weight to play with?if not I would heat treat the middle section.
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I feel like the bottom is slightly stiffer just above the handle. What is the purpose of heat treating?
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It will stiffen the parts up u treat. And help with set. The bottoms limb is usually a little stronger. How's it look strung? Pretty even?
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I went at it a little more but was afraid to go too low. It feels good and balanced on the draw.
After bracing it and check the tiller a few more times I decided to let it be and start finish sanding the bow.
I'm satisfied with it although it hasnt shot an arrow yet and I under estimated diamond nocks. I figured they would be easier the thier geometric simplicity made them hard to make perfect. But overall its better than still wanting to build one or buying one at the store.
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Each one is a little better, sometimes they're not. Sometimes the go boom. It's always on to the next one. Making it better and lighter and faster. Ull find what u like and the sky is the limit. Don't get broken hearted over a piece of wood. It's hard not to sometimes. Just make another. Looks great for a first bow!
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You should shoot it a bunch of times before you start to finish it. Sometimes your tiller will change after its shot a few times. And you could have hand shock due to limb timing or the tips being too heavy. JMHO Patrick
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Each one is a little better, sometimes they're not. Sometimes the go boom. It's always on to the next one. Making it better and lighter and faster. Ull find what u like and the sky is the limit. Don't get broken hearted over a piece of wood. It's hard not to sometimes. Just make another. Looks great for a first bow!
+1
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I don't finish sand till I shoot her quite a bit. She may still let go
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Yeah you definitely don't want to spend a lot of time on a finish job before it's even fired an arrow. If you're satisfied with the tiller then now is the time to shoot it in.
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By finish sanding I meant smoothing off rough spots and such I created when tillering and smoothing out the nocks. Not like finishing the bow finishing. I just wanted to get it sound to be shot. But I have to make a string and arrows first.
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Took about 20-30 shots with the tillering string and a crude arrow from goldenrod and pine fletching. Shoots nice, took some getting used to but it feels good now.
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I wouldn't use golden rod for arrows. They're not too strong
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Pine fletching? Like the needles?
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I've heard mixed results on goldenrod depending in the type of species. Ours here grows to be about 6ft and about the diameter of a middle finger. Either way this was just a make shift since I don't have any if the materials to make proper arrows yet. I cannot find rivercane or anything as of yet.
And yes it was pine leaflets. The arrow flew pretty good considering I made it in about 10 minutes and my bow it about 1.38" wide
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Braced pic 7" brace
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141024_125100331.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141024_125100331.jpg.html)
Final draw and weight are 44# and 27"
I took another 30 shots with it today and then left it braced all day and um braced it and checked the set. 1.75" of set after all that and shoots good so far...or as good as it will without a proper string and arrow.
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Full draw
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/VID_20141024_123558101_5423.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/VID_20141024_123558101_5423.jpg.html)
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Just comparing your tillering and my tillering. No doubt about it, I have to work on my tillering. :-[ :-[
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nice job looking pretty good I'd say. Now you need to learn how to make a string and replace that quarter inch thick rope you got on there 8) Congrats
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congrats
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Looks good! Hope ya build some more!! Given the thought ya put into that bow, the arrows will likely be cool too.
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Looks great man, good job.
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Good job man, I like it. That there's excellent tillering period let alone for a first bow. Any chance we could see a pic of the back?
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Yeah I just don't know what the best way to get a good angle on it.
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Great job man! How's the unbraced profile looking?
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I'll upload some pics in a few. I have a few things to add.
Today I went and bought a few different spines of.carbon arrows so I could get a feel for some actual shooting. I also had to make a string to fit the nocks.
I found that the 340 spine arrows shot the straightest and that is with a 150 grain tip and 31" length. I'm hoping to use that to find an approximate spine for making my own.
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Unbraced
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141025_113324025.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141025_113324025.jpg.html)
My string I made. It's made of sisal and polyester kite string. I wanted a primitive look from the sisal yet I wanted something string and nice looking. I didn't research this at all...I just went with it. I bought dome heavy 76lb sisal and in ravaled it into 3 sections and then took the nicest of the 3 and split it. Then I took the 5 lb kite string and took 6 strands and counter twisted the sisal and 6 strands of kite string and then took the other half of sisal and did the same. Then took my two sisal/polyester rope and counter twisted them. So my theoretical strength should be 85lbs. That's the 76lb sisal ÷ 3 = 25. 5lb kite string × 12 =60lbs. 69+25=85
[/URL=http://s32.photobucket.com/user/PORTnPOLISH97/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141025_183539011.jpg.html](http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/PORTnPOLISH97/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141025_183539011.jpg)[/URL]
So I read that playing with brace height can make a bow feel smoother. I used my tillering string to mess with this before I made my new string and I felt like 8" made the bow feel quick if that makes sense. At 7" it felt like it was too slow when it neared the brace height. So I made my string and braced it up but then thought that I didn't recall seeing any bowsnwith a high brace and it may not be any good for the bow. Does this seem okay or could it damage the bow?
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Apparently my copy and pasting got.out of hand...sorry 😀
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Good looking first bow congratulations.
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Your sisal/polyester string looks good, but in my opinion it probably isn't strong enough. The rule of thumb I go by is draw weight times 4. So for a 44# bow I'd want a string with a break strength of at least 176#. The reasoning behind this is that when the string slams home after shooting an arrow, its under considerably more stress than when at brace or drawn. It will probably work for a while but if a string breaks during a shot, it's likely the bow could break too and I don't like to take that chance.
I have some linen string with a advertised break strength of 75#. If you'd like, I could send you enough to make a 4 ply bow string. That's what I use on most of my bows and I feel like its more than strong enough. It won't look as primitive as sisal but it's more primitive than dacron or polyester. I believe linen is what experts think the bow strings of old english warbows were made of but don't quote me on that. If you want some just pm me your address. Or you could get a roll of your own at pyrosupplies.com, although their site down right at this moment.
As far as the brace height issue, I generally brace a bow at the lowest brace height at which it shoots well and clears the fletching. The lower the brace height, the longer the powerstroke and the more energy applied to the arrow. At least theoretically. Also, a high brace height puts a bit more stress on the limbs at brace.
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I see. I thought doubling it would work but I guess I was wrong. I might just take you uo on that offer.
Maybe I just want used to the low brace height. I'll have to shoot it more and see.
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Okay so not that I did agreed with you but I did a little research and found that the working load is 1/5th of the breaking strength. So that would mean that my role has a breaking strength of 425 lbs? Hmm.
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It's the breaking strength we're interested in. If its 5 times what you thought it was then you are probably okay, but I'd do a break test just to be certain. Another thing to consider is the diameter of the finished string. It needs to fit into your arrow knocks.
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Yeah these nocks on the carbon arrows fit perfect. Slip on and don't fall off. I based my measurement of the working load so my estimate is 425. I'll habe tobtestvthe strings for breaking and see what I get.