Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: PEARL DRUMS on October 19, 2014, 09:12:27 am
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My only regret is I waited just a fuzz too long to temper. It always AMAZES me just how much a proper temper job affects all woods, especially ash, elm and HHB. I have been dinking around with an HHB flat bow for the last 8-10 days. I heat shaped it and got about 100 degrees of the 180 degrees of twist out, plus added a few inches of reflex. I tillered it out and full drew/shot it maybe 5-8 times at 52# or so. I was hoping to avoid anymore heat, but it followed the string horribly and I didn't like the eye appeal as a result. Not because of follow, the whole limb shape just wasn't sexy enough for me. It did shoot great I thought.
I decided to give it a proper temper all the while shaping it back down to my caul. The bow gained at least 10# and, for now, holds over an inch of reflex. That temper job moved the tips at least 4" and the whole bow just looks so much nicer. My only regret? Not tempering prior to pulling it beyond 18-20". Oh well, something tells me it will be a fine bow all the same.
Just thought Id share a little of what turns my crank! ;)
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My only regret is... No pictures!
I don't make as many as I used to so I depend on photos of bows!
:)
Jawge
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Me either Jawgey, only 7-8 this year as compared to 30-40. The bow needs sanding and sealing, then Ill put up pics. Its short'ish and wide!
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Can't wait to see it pearly. I've just made a new caul and am waiting to get a 2 by 8 o finish it up. I'm excited to give some proper tempering done. Thanks for sharing that tid bit :)
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I agree Chris... Especially with HHB, that stuff really loves the heat gun.... Brian
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If you back your caul, be sure to rub a bit of veg oil on the back of the bow and side pushed towards the cauls back. It will scorch every time when heat crawls in back there.
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I think tempering has a healing affect on the wood. Makes it almost like new again.
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You think you should have tempered prior to pulling the bow? I'm still trying to figure out the process of when to toast it. On my last one (hackberry) I did a mild toasting before and then a heavier tempering after tillering it close to final weight. As I finalized it to weight, I never touched the belly again, just the sides. Seems to have worked.
George
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George lets say my target is 50 @ 28. I like to get the bow to 50 @ 18-20". Then temper it and reduce the weight back down as I get out to 28". This time I was hoping my extra width would allow only a heat shaping at the beginning and not a full blown temper. It didn't work, the bow required a full temper. But the only sure way for me to know that was to fully draw/shoot it a few times and see what the limbs did. If the bow was 66-68" ntn like it should be, I may have got away with no temper. But, its 64" ntn and that's short for a 28" plus draw and white wood.
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Define HHB please!
Haha
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Chris, I've not done a bow 64"ntn @28". I'll follow your lead on it. Thanks.
G.
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Define HHB please!
Haha
Hop Hornbeam
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Oh, ok!
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buddy if that's your only regret your doing all right ;)
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What made it take so much follow initially? Sounds like it was overbuilt enough. A bit wet maybe?
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Too short for the wood Pat. The. Stave was in 45-50% humidity for a few months.
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How far were you drawing it?
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28.5"
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Remember now, in another thread the Nay Sayers said what you just accomplished is a no-no, won't work and is very bad to even try.
My findings with heat and tempering have been very good as well. I had one BBO with sorry, chalky wood that had a ton of string follow and shot like a dog. After tempering the wood it lost all the string follow, gained a pound or two but still shot a bit sluggishly. My findings is that softer, less dense wood doesn't gain as much in performance with heat as that nice, dense, buttery osage.
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Trying never hurt a thing Eric, that's my feeling anyhow. I have done as much tinkering with unsatisfactory bows as I have "good" ones. That alone has allowed me to learn to do a lot of things I was told are no-no's.
I forgot to mention I tempered the bow and was done by 10:20 am. By 2:30 pm. I was in the yard shooting it with a BIG grin on my face. The aforementioned tinkering has taught me I can do that as well, with equally great results as waiting 1-7 days. Ive done it both ways dozens of times to arrive at that deduction.
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Man Chris you are just an out of control outlaw. ;) :) :) :) Looking forward to the pictures. :)
Pappy
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I usually temper mine when I get it floor tillered. They are usually within 10 pounds at that point, you know what I mean.
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sounds like a nice bow congrats,
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I forgot to mention I tempered the bow and was done by 10:20 am. By 2:30 pm. I was in the yard shooting it with a BIG grin on my face. The aforementioned tinkering has taught me I can do that as well, with equally great results as waiting 1-7 days. Ive done it both ways dozens of times to arrive at that deduction.
I'll take your word for that Chris but I'm still gonna wait a day before doing anything. You know when you touch the stove and burn your fingers you just don't want to touch that stove again.
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I understand Marc. One day I may have a blow up or crack open, then Ill wait. But Im hard headed as they come and need to have personal reasons before I change my ways. I learned to make bows in a very unorthodox way for that very same reason.
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Hard headed? No way, not Pearl Drums.. :) LOL
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I understand Marc. One day I may have a blow up or crack open, then Ill wait. But Im hard headed as they come and need to have personal reasons before I change my ways. I learned to make bows in a very unorthodox way for that very same reason.
Sounds just like me :)
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It didn't take set for some reason or another. I know exactly why it took set, hence the reason I stopped drawing it shortly into the build and tempered it. This bow and thread wasn't a mistake in any way.
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I think the point Mike is making is that your bow and Eric's don't really have much in common.