Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Knoll on November 25, 2014, 05:41:25 pm
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Here's latest project. Red oak board, 63" ntn, and 1 3/4" wide at fades. Limb width is tapered beginning 3" beyond fades tapering to 1/2" tips.
Aiming for 35-40 lbs at 28".
First pic is braced 4". Second pic 37# at 22".
To me, left limb appears to be bit more stiff than right. It will be bottom limb, so maybe bit stiffer is good thing?
Whatcha say?
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/knolltop314/100_2813.jpg)
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/knolltop314/100_2817.jpg)
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I would scrape the outer right limb to take some stress off of the right fade.
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Maybe a hand draw pic would give a better veiw?
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I will agree with bushboy on both accounts. Little loose on the right fade, and a hand drawn pic may give a different perspective. Looking pretty good though. Might show an unbraced as well.
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what bushboy said :)
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Gotcha.
Will update tomorrow.
Thanks!
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What's really important when determining correct tiller is the width profile. How you taper the width determines what the tiller should be like.
If it tapers in straight lines from the fades to the tips the it's a pyramid bow and should bend in an arc of a circle. This is because a pyramid will have little to no thickness taper. If the limb is the same thickness along it's length then the wood can bend the same amount everywhere (apart from right off the fades).
If your limb has a parallel width section out from the fades then it will have a thickness taper. So the tiller for this limb should be elliptical eg. as it gets thinner it can and should be bending progressively more out to the tip with the last 8 -10 inches to the very tip being stiffer - so you don't get a 'whip tiller'.
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Looks might good to me. :)
Pappy
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+1 on what mike said.
If it`s a pyramid bow, it look pretty good. If not, the inner limb is bending a bit to much...
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Modified op to include width profile info ... Limb width is tapered beginning 3" beyond fades tapering to 1/2" tips.
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I would go to full brace and carry on, slow and easy. :)
Pappy
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From the splitting hairs department....Mike has a very good point. Just be aware that your limb is feeling the most leverage right there at the end of the fade, i.e. it wants to bend there first. The limb needs to be wider there to withstand the strain, not necessarily thicker. It will take set or break if not wide enough to accommodate the strain. This is really just a bit of thinking out loud on this subject. Things to ponder. Your very close and its looking good. Just use your noodle and make sure that its good and sound at that spot.
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The Wife may be absent for the day. So here's where I'm at now.
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/knolltop314/5b65b2b6-16ca-4906-8389-91fd69674470.jpg?t=1417028635)
Full brace and 25" on tillering stick. Did lotsa sanding of limb edges to make them even more rounded than they were. Most of tillering has involved removing wood from belly.
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Looks good to me
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Looking good.
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Now that's a bow Mr Mike
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Do you have an unbraced picture? To my inexperienced eye it looks like the outer third could bend some more. Am I wrong or is there some reflex that would explain it? Not criticizing, just trying to learn something.
Thanks
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DC, look at the braced pic, the tips curve up. Usually the last 5-6" are stiff
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Yep, glued-on recurve tips. But I've been working outer third a bit too.
Thanks, ya'll. Am now at 27" and, after few more scraping sessions, will be ready for the last inch. Been holding my breath.
Slingshots are alot easier! ;)
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U could probly shoot in that last inch
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DC, look at the braced pic, the tips curve up. Usually the last 5-6" are stiff
OK Thanks. I'll get this, you just wait ;D
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Done! 38 @ 28. Hoping for decent day tomorrow so can put some arrows through it.
In coming days may post some closeups of areas (like nocks) where would like to do sumpin different but don't really have a clue re "how to".
Thanks, again, fellas for taking the time to post your thoughts.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!
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That's a good looking tiller, good job.
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Looks good Michael, nice work.
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Nice work Knoll, +2 on what Blaflair2 said...Be sure and post all the finished pictures, me like pictures ;)
Don
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DC, look at the braced pic, the tips curve up. Usually the last 5-6" are stiff
I see what DC was saying, but I agree with everybody else that it ain't broke. If you divide the limb into quarters, he could MAYBE have put just a LITTLE more bend in from 1/2 way out, to 3/4 out, and a little less in the first half, because it's side tapering there.
But, if it came in at weight, doesn't have bad set, and shoots, it's better than many bows I have called finished!
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... put just a LITTLE more bend in from 1/2 way out, to 3/4 out, ...
I don't disagree and will address that area after shootin' a bunch of arrows. Thanks!
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Here's a few pics after bunch of arrows, but no further tillering. Got 1 inch of set immediately after unstringing.
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/knolltop314/100_2819.jpg)
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/knolltop314/100_2824.jpg)
(http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/knolltop314/100_2828.jpg)
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Look's very good! Nice work! 8)
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Knoll, Excellent job, 1" of set on a 63" bow @ 28" is very acceptable...Did you heat temper the belly?
Don
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Nice job, love the curves! Patrick
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Don . . . No, it's not heat tempered. Bow is from red oak and I've read heat tempering red oak often doesn't end well. Thanks for looking, fellas!
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Knoll, Red Oak or Ash? You stated Ash in the beginning of your thread... ;)
Don
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Red oak. Op corrected. Thanks for noticing. Making 'em one right after another results, in my case, in a bit of confusion. ::)
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Nice work all around -
That fd pic is a bit large for my computer, had to scroll up and down ;)
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That'll make a shooter. Good job Sir!
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yeah, that was EXACTLY it. Vey impressive in oak and that length.