Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: osage outlaw on June 30, 2015, 11:12:07 pm
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My trusty little homelite chainsaw has not been running very well lately. It has been bogging down when I'm cutting with it. Now it won't hardly run at all. I can get it started and it runs on full choke but it dies as soon as I go to half or no choke. Today I cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, and exhaust. It didn't help at all. I had problems with the fuel filter plugging up earlier in the year. I replaced it this spring but I went ahead and ordered a 10 pack of new fuel filters for it yesterday. I can't figure out what is going on with it. When it's running on full choke it starts and sounds normal. If I can't get it fixed I'll have to take it to a repair guy. This has been a great little saw. Its cut a ton of wood over the last 14 years. And I've cut some big stuff with it to. It's tackled 20"+ osage trees with ease. I just had to go at them from each side. I would like to get it running so I can keep it as a back up saw.
I remember getting it as a Christmas present the first year we were married. It was my first chainsaw and the first time using one. I went outside and found a tree in the edge of the yard to cut. And then I found another and another. I was having a great time. I had three good sized trees laying in the yard in no time. If it wasn't for the wife yelling at me from the porch who knows how many I would have dropped that day.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it running again?
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150630_202018.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150630_202048.jpg)
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Check the fuel line for cracks. Air in the line causes leaning.
Pull the muffler and check the piston for scoring.
Sometimes the first will lead to the second if left too long.
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The fuel line inside the tank?
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Fourteen years?! Might need rings, or a complete rebuild. Like they said, check the fuel line in the tank.
If you got fourteen years out of it, you did well. ;)
Wayne
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Start by removing the spark plug.
Next remove the muffler.
Pay close attention how it comes off. They often have small pieces ( Baffles and such ) that will come off with the muffler. If the muffler will open... Open it up and see if it is full of carbon. Remove any and all carbon.
You can burn the carbon out with a propain torch if you have to.
Before replacing the muffler look into the exhaust port.
Pull the rope and watch as the piston rises and falls. Look for scratches and grooves on the piston.
If you can see over the top of the piston look at the cylinder walls as well. You may need to shine a flashlight
threw the sparkplug hole to see into the cylinder.
If you see very many scratches the saw is toast and will need to be replaced.
If the piston and cylinder look good... Replace the cleaned out muffler and install a NEW spark plug.
Clean the air filter. You can, for a very short time, test run the saw with out the air filter.
Start the saw. If it DOES NOT run right turn it off. It will , most likely, need a new carburetor and fuel lines.
If is is sucking air threw a cracked fuel line.... Running it that way will ruin the moter
This is something that you can do.....
David
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Probably the jet in the carb. Pull it off and blow it out, some have a filter at the end of the pick up line inside the tank I would check that. running on full choke tells me it is running out of fuel so I would start with the filter in the tank unless you have checked and then to the carb. ;)
Pappy
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The fuel line inside the tank?
Hi osage, I used homelites in the early 70's! It can be, but I've found the upper line near the carb is the main trouble spot due to age and vibration. The tank line section is usually free to flop with a weight and damped, the upper section is fixed between grommet and the carb inlet and suffers more from vibration -- both age and crack. Seems like the older cheap clear vinyl plastic lines lasted better than some of the new fancy molded rubber (expensive) lines. The worst was a $30 Stihl saw's custom molded rubber line I had that lasted only 2 years before disintegrating. Ahhhh modern engineering.... ::)
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Thanks for all the help guys.
I took it all apart again today. The piston and cylinder look shiny and smooth. I checked the exhaust again and its clean. I didn't pull the carb off because I'm afraid I'll mess it up. I sprayed it down good inside with carb cleaner. I also looked over the fuel lines and didn't see any cracks. The line inside the tank is very soft and mushy. I'm thinking it might be getting pinched shut somewhere. The primer bulb won't pop out after I push it. It takes several minutes for it to pop out all the way. Could that be a sign of a pinched fuel line? I'm going to get several feet of new hose and replace all of it. Probably pick up a new spark plug to. If that doesn't fix it I think I'm done messing with it. There is a guy in town that fixes small equipment for a decent price. I'll try taking it to him.
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Get it running and spray some Sea Foam in the carb, this has worked wonders on gummed up carbs for me lately.
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The line inside the tank is very soft and mushy.
No good. Needs replacement for sure.
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I've owned a lot of different chainsaws and they all have a fuel filter inline, usually on the end of the line inside the tank, and they do get dirty over time. They also have a diaphragm in the carb to pump the gas, these wear out. The diaphragm kit is not that hard to change, just pay attention to how it comes apart.
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I replaced the fuel filter this spring. I blew it out with the air compressor yesterday. I ordered a pack of 10 from the auction site. I'll swap it out with a new one as soon as they get here. I'm hoping its the fuel line.
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Buy a STHIL ! :D :D!!!!
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I ordered a husqvarna. It was more in my price range than a sthil.
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Don't know if your was running or not while you did that but watch about spraying carb cleaner into any two cycle when running. Cleaner will wash the oil off cylinder walls and you will scorch it.
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The primer bulb won't pop out after I push it.
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I replaced the fuel filter this spring. I blew it out with the air compressor yesterday. I ordered a pack of 10 from the auction site. I'll swap it out with a new one as soon as they get here. I'm hoping its the fuel line.
They also have a small tight mesh screen inside the carb right under the diaphragm. If that gets plugged then it's a no go
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Mine developed the symptom you describe and I had to use a solvent to clean out things. I had been running ethanol gas for a while and the sea foam or Mechanic in a bottle was the remedie. I now run the high octane premix stuff you buy at HD in my 2 cycle stuff. Expensive but I don't run a saw a lot. Seems to be working better than the low octane no- ethanol mix I was using.
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If the primer bulb is stuck in that means there is either a kink in the fuel line or the screen inside the carb is full of trash.Easy fix, just remove the four screws that hold the top cover on the carb, that will be the side where the fuel inlet goes into the carb. Remove the cover and pay close attention to the orientation of the diaphragms. you will then see a small round hole that is probably packed tight with Osage saw dust, there is a small fine mesh screen in that hole, take an ice pick and pop it out. Clean screen and reassemble. If you are going to replace the fuel lines, I would also replace the primer bulb. I have been a chain saw mechanic for over thirty years, PM me if you need any help. Dan
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Thanks tallpine. I'm still working on this thing. I replaced the fuel line. I also took the carb apart. I found the tiny screen inside and it was plugged solid. I cleaned it all out and blew it off with the air compressor. The primer bulb is popping back out like it should be. I can get it to start now. That's an improvement. Once it starts it will rev up and sound like normal for about 2 or 3 seconds and then it will die. I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
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Does it have a removable jet of fixed jet in the carb. The high speed jet could have trash in it.
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No clue Pat
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That sounds like an air leak in the line somewhere, or cracked fuel bulb maybe (they can be really tiny and hidden), or possibly the fuel pump diaphragm needs replacing as someone else mentioned earlier. Anyway, an air leak somehwere. Don't run it much until that is found, or you'll be running lean -- not good for a 2 cycle.
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I ordered a new primer bulb. I'll replace it and see what it does. If that doesn't work I guess I'll get a carb kit and try that.
Thanks for the help guys.
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First try this, You will find two adjustment screws on the side of the carb. The bottom one is the low speed and the top is high speed. turn the high speed screw OUT about 1/8 of a turn. If that does not help check the diaphragm on the opposite side of where you found the screen. It should be soft and pliable, not stiff. recheck your fuel lines and make sure they are not crossed. The line with the filter goes to the bottom inlet on the carb. the suction side of the primer bulb goes to the other inlet on the carb, the discharge side of the primer bulb goes to the line that empties back in to the tank. I hope all this isn't too confusing, good luck Dan
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If the above doesn't work, you might have to bear down and rebuild the carb. The replaced fuel lines should have helped some. Likely it is starving for fuel, Like Pappy said. Sometimes if you're lucky, you can take apart without ruining any of the gaskets. A rebuild kit includes new gaskets and depending on the carb, a new diaphragm for your float bowl. Having a well lit area on a clean white towel or rag helps organize the small parts. It really isn't too bad. Watch for the float bowl spring when removing the bottom bowl cover. It can be tiny and elusive if it gets away from you. When you get the carb apart, there could be some obvious "guck" or "greenies" that need to be cleaned out. Blow out every orifice with the skinny nozzle of the carb cleaner.
Try Youtube. Search on the make/model and there is probably some guy that did a film on it.
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I worked on it some more today. I replaced the fuel lines on the primer bulb. The old ones looked fine. I put a new fuel filter on it to. I tore the carb all apart and sprayed everything with carb cleaner. The fuel pump gasket looks fine. Its pliable and no holes in it. Everything under the diaphragm looks good. After I put it all back together it started up and was running great. It ran like it was brand new. I started to cut a scrap piece of wood and it started bogging down and died. I got it restarted and it would idle fine but as soon as I gave it gas it would bog down and die. Its like its getting to much fuel now or something. I thought I had it fixed there for a minute or two. I did learn an important lesson. Make sure you put the fuel cap back on before you turn the saw upright. I dumped it all down the front of my shirt and on my shoes. Stupid mistake ::)
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Generally when it bogs down under a load it is the high speed jet.
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I agree with PatB. Try adjusting your High Speed screw. There should be a "L" and an "H" on screws on the side of the carb. Try again first with 1/2 choke. If it stays running without bogging down, try turning the "H" screw clockwise. Small increments are all that is needed.
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Yup, sounds like just tuning, now.
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Can those vibrate enough to move? I've never adjusted them.
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All the problems with my homelite made me break down and buy this one. Its a factory refurbished model from northern tool. They were on sale and had great reviews. Its a mean critter.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150706_134559.jpg)
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before all them michiganers poo poo that saw, husky is a cutting sun of a gun
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That is a fine tool.
I am a man of Stihl myself.
Store it with no fuel in it.
Dump the fuel out. Start the saw and let it idle until it stops.
David
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Sure sounds like a fuel issue. Never run any ethanol fuel in your new saw and run at least the recommended octane.
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If it refuses to run after all that work then it could be the crank seals are worn.
I have one of those Huskies and they do work well
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I've had a Husqvarna 350 for 15 years and I've done nothing but replace chains and bars.
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I dropped my homelite off at the kooky old guy in town that works on small engines. It should be ready Thursday morning. I sure hope he got it fixed. My new husky has some kind of problem with the bar over heating. I don't see any reason for it to be doing that. The oiler is working and the chain wasn't to tight. I found some burnt marks on the clutch. After some heated words with Northern Tool they decided to give me a refund. It came with a warranty but if you put gas and oil in the saw you can't return it. How stupid is that. You have to test it out.
So today I was checking out craigslist and found an add for 3 non running chainsaws for less money than I paid for the Husky. I talked to the guy and he said he used the saws until they wouldn't start and then he put them on a shelf in his garage and bought a new one. He didn't seem to have any mechanical skills at all. I ended up buying them after work. The best one is a Stihl 029 super farmboss. He said it worked great last year and then one day it wouldn't start. I looked it over and found the linkage missing on the choke lever. I'm hoping that will be an easy fix. The other stihl is a MS 170. I didn't find anything obvious wrong with it. The old homelite is cool looking. Its in great shape for that old of a saw. And the guy gave me a Craftsman brush trimmer. It looks like a big weed eater with a circular saw blade on the business end. I'm going to take all the saws to repair guy in town and hopefully he can get them running. It will be a great bargain if he can. I'm hoping that old saw has some life left in it. I would love to drop a big osage tree with a vintage Homelite.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150721_204215.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150721_204122.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150721_204312.jpg)
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You'll get good exercise for your right thumb with the old Homelite. I have a soft spot for them, though -- first saws I used.
Check the bar for pinching on your Husky. Is it overheting in a particular spot? Is the oil hole in the bar clear all the way through to the chain -- poke a wire up all the way throught the hole on the side -- it should come up through the chain channel.
I've seen guys with oil dripping off their saws and dry chains, not realizing the channel was clogged with sawdust, swearing their oilers worked fine.
ps.
One good check also is to point the saw at a piece of cardboard propped up about a foot away and gun it full throttle. Oil should splatter onto the cardboard if the chain is getting oil
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I cleaned out both of the oil ports and bar grooves. It is throwing a light line of oil when I tested it. The chain doesn't seem to be catching. I'm done working on the husky. Its getting shipped back to Northern.
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I had a Homelite just like that one, wood cutting SOB. I got it used and ran it til it was plain wore out - GREAT saw ! bob.
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I have an 029 Stihl, the other day it wouldn't start, when I pulled the cover it appeared the choke linkage was gone. It took me a few minutes of studying the linkage arrangement to realize it was all there but had somehow slipped out of its track and was way out of whack. Wear over the years had given the linkage a little leeway to go past the normal detent and slide off track if I pushed down on the choke lever too hard when I set the choke.
I have cut so much wood with my 029 over the years it would sound like a lie if I tried to add it all up. About ten years ago I replaced the chain sprocket bearing and that is all I have done to the saw.
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I have an old Homelite just like that one. It is as dependable as it comes. Use it still today. Cuts wood like noone's business.
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I'm really excited about that old Homelite. I'm hoping it will run. I've been doing some research on them and they seem like well built dependable saws. My Dad looked at it last night and he was telling me about his old Homelite that he used for years and years before the engine wore out. It feels like it has good compression when I pull the rope. The Stihls have good compression to. I'm off work tomorrow and I plan on messing with them some. Depending on what the old guy charges me for fixing my little homelite I might just let him work on all three. I'd hate to mess something up on them.
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I have a stihl MS310.
People think I am lying but that saw will cut a full 4'x4'x8' cord of 16" fire wood with two tanks of saw gas.
Never had any problems with it. Bought it new 10 years or so back.
David
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I got the Stihl Farm Boss running today on my lunch break. The throttle linkage wasn't connected. I snapped it back into place and put some gas and oil in it. It only took a few pulls to get it running. It runs great but when you left off the gas it idles down and dies. I think the carb needs tuned a little bit. I did a quick test cut with it. The chain needs to be sharpened. I'm going to see what the little stihl will do later this evening.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150722_151926276_1.jpg)
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I'm 2 for 2. I got the small stihl running.
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I traded for an Oregon commercial chain saw sharpener, once I figured out how to use it I was really impressed with the results. My chains are now almost as sharp as a new store bought one now.
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My Dad bought a chain sharpener from Harbor Tool a couple of years ago. It seems cheap and flimsy but it works. I've been sharpening all of my blades with it.
My little homelite is still broke. The repair guy said its something wrong with the carb. He can't find the problem but its flooding out. He is going to try and find a replacement carb from his stash of parts saws. If he can't I'll try to find one online. I took that old blue homelite to him this morning. He looked it over and then put some gas in it. It started right up and ran perfectly. Its loud and mean sounding. He said its the best saw out of the 3 I bought even though its probably over 40 years old. I'll get a picture of it in action later today.
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He said its the best saw out of the 3 I bought even though its probably over 40 years old.
I agree with him...
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Here is a short video of Ol' Blue running.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bows%202015/th_SDC17573.mp4) (http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/bows%202015/SDC17573.mp4)
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The chainsaw fix it guy couldn't get my saw running. He said it needed a new carb and he didn't have one. He told me the compression felt week and it didn't have much life left in it. I was determined to get it running so I bought a saw just like it on craigslist for parts. The saw was only $20. They said it would start and run but the chain brake was stuck on. I glanced at the carb and it looked like the one I needed. When I got it home and took it apart I realized it wasn't the right one. It was a 45cc and my saw was a 33 cc. I started tearing the parts saw down to see what was wrong with it. It didn't take me long to figure out the problem.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150801_095502.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150801_095527.jpg)
They had put the wrong type of chain on it and destroyed the sprocket. I got the saw started and it ran great. It had probably double the compression of my old one. I decided to retire my little saw and fix up the parts saw. I took the sprocket, bar, and chain off of my saw and put it on the other one. Now I have a 45cc saw with a 14" bar. I have really enjoyed working on all of these saws and I have learned a lot. Thanks for all the advice and help.
My original saw will now be a wall hanger in my garage. Its on the left. The $20 parts saw that runs great is on the right.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150801_121639.jpg)
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Great !!!! $20 saw......
DBar
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Congrats man
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perseverance always pays dividends. Congrats!
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Dude you love them saws :laugh:
That little blue is way cool looking.
Del
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Thanks guys. I wish I could have gotten my original saw running. Its lived a hard life and has cut way more wood than it was ever designed to. It was a great saw right up until the end.
I'm going to give them a test run on a dead tree in my Dad's yard today.
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Looks like your set! You'll like those orange and white saws ;) the old home lite looks really cool
Tracy