Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: Gordon on July 05, 2015, 03:15:17 pm
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Several folks have asked me over the years to do a vine maple bow build-a-long. I had been reluctant because even though vine maple will make a fine bow it can be challenging to work with. The wood may be highly reflexed and have character in the way of knots, nodes, whoop-de-dos and dog-legs. On top of that vine maple wood often has grain swirls that makes it quite difficult to work with traditional tools like a draw knife, spoke shave and scraper. So I didn't think doing a vine maple build-a-long was the best choice for beginner bowyers. But over the last few years I've seen a rise in the popularity of vine maple bows and also there are now sources that can provide very clean vine maple staves (e.g. vinemaplebows) that are actually quite reasonable to work. What follows is a step by step guide to building a vine maple self-bow. Nothing fancy, just a self-bow with a stiff handle and self nocks. I chose to use as few power tools as possible because 1) many novices don't have ready access to power tools and 2) you are much less likely to make a fatal mistake with handle tools. So if you're thinking about tackling your first vine maple bow or just want to see what all the fuss is about, pull up a chair, crack a cold one and enjoy the ride.
I'm starting with a stave that was harvested from the forests of the northern Oregon coast. It was harvested in the spring and was immediately split and debarked. I have rarely had vine maple check on me so I like to remove the bark while it is easy to peel away. This is a pretty typical stave in my area - it has a fair amount of reflex, several knots and dips and a dog-leg at one end.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-2.jpg)
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The first thing I do is draw a line along the highest point (or crown) of the stave. This is important as the crown is not uniform and you want the thickest part of the wood to lie along the center of the bow limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-3.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-4.jpg)
After drawing the center line, I use a piece of leather to mark a series of marks 1" inch to each side of the center.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-5.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-6.jpg)
When I'm done, I have a stave that is ready to be worked down to a width of about 2"
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-7.jpg)
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Using a hatchet I remove the wood outside of the lines.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-8.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-10.jpg)
Wood removal is much easier if you keep your hatchet sharp!
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-11.jpg)
And here is what the stave looks like after working it down after working it down with the hatchet.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-12.jpg)
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This bow is going to be 62" ntn, so I shorten the length to 64" leaving an inch on both ends for the nocks.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-15.jpg)
I use a sharp draw knife to clean the edges up.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-23.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-16.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-17.jpg)
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Using my hand as a guide I draw a line 1 1/2" from the back along the length of the stave (I'm leaving enough for a stiff handle if I want it). I do this on both sides of the stave.
I expect some of you are wondering by now why I don't just draw the bow and cut it to rough dimensions in one step and be done with it? The reason is because I generally do not have a firm idea of what design I want to use at beginning stages of making a bow. By taking many steps I have plenty of time to think about how I want the bow to look and kind of "sneak up" on it. I realize this approach isn't for everyone, but I like giving the wood a say on what it wants to be.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-18.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-19.jpg)
Using a hatchet, I remove the excess wood outside of the lines.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-20.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayOne-21.jpg)
Next up will be locating the handle and working down the limb width and taper to rough dimensions.
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Awesome another Gordon build along. I must say sir your build along are stellar and very helpful. Thanks for putting in the time to do them.
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I'm watching :D. I have a Doug Maple stave that is much like that.
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I've been waiting for this for ages. Thank you so much for your quality builds. Looking forward to each and every post.
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I need to bookmark this one. When Gordon starts handing out education, I need to be in the classroom!
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Awesome! Thank you for your contribution! I'm looking forward to this!
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Awesome :). I'll be watching
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Hooray, another build along! :D Your build alongs ROCK Gordon!
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No vine maple around here but I am pulling up a chair anyway. I appreciate you taking the time to post this - it ain't every day that you get free lessons from a master craftsman.
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Gordon, I have a piece of vinemaple roughed out. I have been reluctant in continuing with it because of the extreme reflex. I am happy to see this tutorial...good timing. Thank you, David
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I can't wait for this! I have a piece just waiting for this build along. Thanks Gordon! Patrick
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Now I am going to rough out the limb width tapers. First I measure about 14 inches from each end of the stave and make a mark. This is where the limbs will taper into the nocks. The limb width above this line will be more or less parallel.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-3.jpg)
Next I make a mark at the end and at the highest point of the crown and then another mark 1/2 inch to each side of the first mark. This will be the roughed out tip. At this point in the build I keep the tips quite wide.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-5.jpg)
I draw a tapered line from the tip to the point at which the taper begins. You don't want to use a straight edge for this unless the stave is relatively straight. Instead I use my hand and fingers as a guide so that the tapered line follows the contour of the wood.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-6.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-7.jpg)
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I rough out the taper using a hatchet and then follow-up with a draw knife.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-10.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-11.jpg)
Where there are grain swirls that cause the draw knife to catch, I use a micro-plane instead.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-13.jpg)
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To locate the handle I mark the center of the bow. I pick which limb will be the upper and lower and make a mark 1 inch above the center for the upper limb and 3 inches below center for the lower limb. That will make the upper limb 2" longer than the lower limb. Even though they are a little more trouble to make, I generally make my bows asymmetrical for a couple of reasons: 1) an asymmetrical bow will balance better when you are carrying it around loosely in your hand and 2) it balances out the stress on the limbs a bit better because your draw point is actually a few inches above center. That said, there is nothing wrong with making the limbs symmetrical - this is just the way I'm used to doing it.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-8.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-15.jpg)
Next up - roughing out the limb thickness taper and the handle.
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Awesome pics Gordon. Thanks for sharing your process with us!
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Thank you very much for this, Gordon. I wish I had seen it a week ago and so didn't make some mistakes roughing out a similar looking piece of wood (though not vine maple) but it's great to understand the process better with these photos, and my next bow will I'm sure, be better because of it. Can't wait to see the next steps!
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"Gordon, I have a piece of vinemaple roughed out. I have been reluctant in continuing with it because of the extreme reflex."
David, extreme reflex is a common issue with vine maple and can make tillering very challenging. I'll show some ways to deal with that problem later in the build-a-long.
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I look forward to it. Thank you. I tend to try and follow the "sneek up on it" method also.
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First Hazel Build along, now Vine Maple...
Interesting as ever.
Thank you for your effort.
Greetz
Cord
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Thanks for doing this again Gordon. There's quite a few of us whose bowyering has changed and improved directly as a result of your build alongs. I hope one day to see them compiled and in print.
This is also a good opportunity for some newer bowyers who may not be familiar with Gordons other build alongs to hit the "How To's and Build-a-longs" section up for the Winter Project yew build along from 2012 and the Hazelnut build along from 2007. These are real treasures to any bow making community. I refer to them still. Thanks man.
Gabe
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Nice reflex there Gordon, should make a good bow! Build alongs are always fun, and even those that have built for yrs can learn new tricks! :laugh:
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I dig the shop shoes Gordon! I have always worn the same thing, cant beat them on concrete.
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Tormek sharpener and Gransfors Buck axe = good combo! ;)
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pearlie sure likes his crocks, glad you are doing this Gordon your builds are always so precise and easy to follow
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Thank you for all the nice comments. Pearl, I started wearing crocks because I am recovering from a broken ankle and I cannot wear regular shoes because of the persistent swelling. But I have found them quite comfortable and convenient.
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Check out the Croc Santa Crux. I wear em to work and nobodies the wiser. >:D
Gabe
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this was supposed to be an old pacific north west secret...and now the cat is out of the bag...LOL...THIS GREAT..i cant wait for the tillering on this..it will be fun...i have to say gordon..when it comes to vine maple you stand right with john strunk...and most people look at vm as a rookie wood..but it is far than that...john
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Woot woot nice gord-o! Glad you doing this! I planned on finishing my fm build along but sadly I've moved about 3 times and I can't find the drive with my build pictures. So I just finished the bow:/
Can't wait too see what you have in store for this pimply piece of wood:)
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....
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-3.jpg)
Next I make a mark at the end and at the highest point of the crown and then another mark 1/2 inch to each side of the first mark. This will be the roughed out tip. At this point in the build I keep the tips quite wide.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwo-5.jpg)
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First, thank you for doing this buildalong. I'm watching with interest!
Second, please explain why you chose the highest crown of the stave. I do not care about the highest point, I'm searching for the running through grain. Will say I look for a not running out grain only on one limb side, I aim for symmetry. Hope my words make sense ...
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Simson,
The vine maple that I typically harvest around these parts is of a smallish diameter and thus has a high crown. I like the center of mass to be centered along the limb to the extent possible to prevent the limbs from twisting.
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Very nice build along ,love watching them come along. Thanks Gordon. :) On the subject of crown, I haven't done VM but on most smaller Diameter stuff I have dealt with the crown will usually follow the grain anyway so I try and do about the same if the stave will let me. Looking nice so far. ;) :)
Pappy
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I wonder how VM reacts to heat straightening....? dry or wet? patience...
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Pappy, with vine maple anyway the crown almost always follows the natural grain of the wood. Except perhaps at knots which I work around.
David, vine maple responds well to both dry and wet heat - I use them both.
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Love all the pictures, thank you for doing such a great build. Your shop is awesome. I could simply sit, drink coffee and stare around me :)
Eagerly following, Jim
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I'm early on in my self bow endeavors. Thanks for this build along......nice to see the work of masters on unfamiliar woods.
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Before outlining the limb thickness taper I mark the location of the handle and fades. I'm making the fades two inches out from each end of the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-2.jpg)
Using a tool I made for this purpose, I make a mark at the beginning of the fade that indicates of thickness of 7/8" from the back of the bow. This mark is the start of the limb thickness taper.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-3.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-4.jpg)
I then make another mark about 3/8" in from the previous mark. This mark indicates the depth of the taper at the limb tip. I then make a third mark half-way between the inner and outer marks. This last mark indicates the depth of the taper at mid-limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-5.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-6.jpg)
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Using my hand and fingers as a gauge I measure the mid-limb thickness and make a mark the thickness at mid-limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-7.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-8.jpg)
I repeat the previous steps at the limb tip.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-9.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-10.jpg)
With the thickness now marked at the fades, mid-limb, and the tip I use my hand as a guide to draw the thickness taper along the length of the limb. As I draw I slowly contract my hand to create a taper while following the back of the bow. If I do it right the taper line should line up with the thickness marks I made in the previous steps.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-11.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-12.jpg)
I repeat this process for both sides on each limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-13.jpg)
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I create the thickness taper by removing wood with a hatchet. I use the thickness taper lines on each side of the limb as my guide.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-16.jpg)
When I'm done with the initial hatchet work I have a beveled belly along the length of the limb. I use a hatchet and/or rasp to remove the bevel.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-17.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-18.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-19.jpg)
I repeat the process for the other limb and I am done roughing out the limb thickness taper.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-20.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-21.jpg)
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I'm going to reduce the limb width a bit so using a piece of leather as my gauge, I mark the limb width at 1 3/4". I then draw an outline of the handle and rough it out the handle using a hatchet.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-23.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-24.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-26.jpg)
I use a farrier rasp to reduce the limbs to the marked width. If there are any knots near the edge, I work around them
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-27.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-28.jpg)
I reduce the tips to about 5/8" inch.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-31.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-30.jpg)
And here is the limb after the width has been reduced.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-32.jpg)
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And finally I clean up the belly with a spoke shave and I now have a fully roughed out bow.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-33.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayThree-34.jpg)
Next up - preparing the bow for tillering.
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Now that I have the bow roughed out I am going to work on perfecting the thickness taper. If you get the taper just right early on it makes tillering the bow that much easier. I start by running the limb between my fingers feeling for low and high spots. The human hand is an incredibly sensitive instrument and is capable of detecting minute variations in thickness. But it takes practice to develop the feel and at first it will seem like you are not able to do it any better with your fingers than just judging the thickness with your eyes. But stick with it and over time you will be amazed at how well you can judge the taper of a limb by just feeling it.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-2.jpg)
I mark any high spots with a solid pencil and low spots with an "X". The idea is to perfect the thickness taper first and then remove wood evenly from the limbs after that.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-3.jpg)
A common problem with vine maple is swirly grain. If you try to hog wood off using a cutting tool like a spoke shave or draw knife, the tool will catch on the grain swirls and pull out chunks. I found that the best tool for hogging wood off vine maple is a micro-plane.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-5.jpg)
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When I get the thickness taper more or less where I want it I begin to remove wood evenly along the length of the limb. I do this by first drawing a line along both sides of the limb about 1/32" in from the belly. Then using a micro-plane I remove wood to the line along each side of the limb. When both sides are done, I take a micro-plane or rasp flat across the belly to remove the bevel. This technique allows me to reduce the belly quickly but in a controlled manner.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-1.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-8.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-9.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-2.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-10.jpg)
I repeat this step multiple times until the belly is reduced to the point that the limbs are just about to bend under pressure. It is important to recheck the thickness taper between steps to make sure it remains even. If high or low spots develop you need to fix those before removing wood across the length of the limb as described above.
Before I begin floor tillering I bring the width of the limbs closer to final dimensions.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-13.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayfour-14.jpg)
Next up - floor tillering
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Man gordon I sure love you build alongs. I learn so much. Thanks for taking the time to do this. :)
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Will that thickness taper work on other woods with a similar design?
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Will that thickness taper work on other woods with a similar design?
The techniques I use here apply to any wood. Just the dimensions vary somewhat. I start a little thinner with Osage and a little thicker with yew. Other woods like hickory and elm would be about the same dimensions as vine maple.
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Where do service berry and cascara (buckthorn) fallin your dimensions? Thanks
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Service berry would fall between Osage and vine maple. Cascara would be similar to yew.
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One of the risks of working with vine maple is that it will pull into even more reflex as you remove wood. Since working down the belly the stave has taken on an additional 2" or so of reflex. With all that reflex this bow is going to be a challenge to bring to brace.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-4.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-9.jpg)
I continue removing wood from the belly using the micro-plane all the while making sure that I maintain a thickness taper for each of the limbs. After 5-6 wood removal sessions the limbs begin to bend.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-10.jpg)
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The handle is quite a bit off center and normally I wait until I get the bow braced before I start making alignment adjustments. But leaving the handle off center will make tillering this high reflex bow even more difficult. So I'm going to correct the alignment now.
I begin by making a mark down the center of the handle. I then fasten a chalk line to the center of the tip and make a straight line through the center of the handle. I repeat the process for the other limb. These lines will be my reference marks when I bend the handle to align the tips.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-13.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-14.jpg)
I make a mark on the side of the handle I need to apply pressure to and then I steam the handle for about 45 minutes.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-15.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-19.jpg)
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After streaming I quickly move the bow to my handle press and begin bending the handle using a pipe clamp. This will cause the tips to move in the opposite direction.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-16.jpg)
Using a straight edge as a reference I keep bending the handle until the chalk lines align with each other. Then I bend the handle a little more because the handle will come back a bit when it is removed from the press.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayFive-17.jpg)
I leave the bow in the press for about 24 hours to make sure the bend will stay.
Next up - getting the bow to brace.
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Great build so far Gordon. I completely agree with what you said about thickness taper. My thumb and forefinger are my most used tools!
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I really appreciate this thread, Gordon. It's extremely helpful.
I have a couple beginner's question about your blank -- you said you split it and debarked it -- was it curved to begin with, or did the curve develop after splitting?
If it was curved to begin with, is the other half of the split timber usable for a bow, too? Because it seems like it might be just as deflexed as this one is reflexed.
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vtbow, the stave was not reflexed when it was cut. The tree was leaning and the side facing up (the tension side) is what is now the back of the bow. The wood pulled into reflex as it dried and then more as the belly was reduced. That said, you can make a perfectly serviceable bow from the compression side.
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Ah, thank you, Gordon.
If a small timber has grown naturally somewhat curved but not from a leaning tree, just grew that way, does the same thing hold true -- two useful bows can be made from it if the curve is say a 3 inches over 6'?
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I would certainly not hesitate to make a bow from a stave with 3" of reflex - that's perfect. I don't generally care to make bows from deflexed staves however.
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Great build Gordon, your attention to detail is incredible.
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Loving it!!! Thanks for sharing, Gordon.
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Gordon one of the first threads I stumbled across on PA was one of your build-a-longs. I learned so much from that thread and it helped inspire me to take up the hobby. Glad to see you are doing another one and I am learning new things on this one as well. I loved how you demonstrated your setup for bending the handle for tip alinement. I never really had a clear idea of the technique, or thought of using chalk lines as visual guides. Can't wait to see what else is in store!
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Love the tip on using a straight edge and marks made to align the stave handle and tips when bending the handle. In past, I usually guessed how far to go. Very ingenious. Seems obvious once shown how. Thanks for sharing your know how.
Russ
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awesome build, thanks. I use many of these same techniques with VM layout and building. How long did you steam that handle-? I have had little success with that- they either spring back or break.
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THIS A GREAT TREAD..i cant wait for the tillering to see how you do it...i might have to print this out...THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR DOING IT...
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arron, I will steam a handle for about 45 minutes. I've never had one break, but handles treated as such will have a tendency to spring back if you do not leave them in the form long enough. I usually leave a handle in the form for 24 hours after bending.
Thank you for all the nice comments!
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I let the stave sit for a week and you can see it has gained some reflex. Vine maple that grows under high tension will do that. As you remove wood from the belly the wood cells along the back seem to contract and pull the bow into reflex. I've worked with a lot of different wood and this is the only species that I have encountered that does that.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-1.jpg)
A stave with this much reflex is quite challenging to tiller which calls for some unorthodox methods. To start I clamp the bow securely to my bench vise and put a stop on one limb. I then push on the opposing limb with my body and watch how it bends.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-2.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-3.jpg)
I switch limbs and repeat the previous step. Based on how the limbs bend I make marks on the belly indicating where I need to remove wood or not.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-6.jpg)
I'll repeat the preceding steps a number of times until I've removed enough wood that the stave is bending a bit easier. Then I place the stave between two saw horses and push down with my weight and evaluate how the limbs respond. It is helpful to take a picture of yourself doing this so you can evaluate the bend from a another perspective.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-8.jpg)
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I am constantly checking to make sure that the limb thickness is more or less even on both edges. If one edge is getting thinner than the other then I take more wood off of the thick side while working the limbs down. An "X" marks the edge where I do not want to remove wood.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-12.jpg)
I'll frequently switch between the saw horse and bench vice to get different perspectives on the bending limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-11.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-13.jpg)
I've got it bending to where I think it is ready to brace and in the process I've managed to work out some of the reflex. I know that some of you will think that I have induced unwanted set into the bow. But I assure you that so far I have hardly exercised the belly wood. All I've done is begin to unwind the cellular contraction process that I spoke of earlier. My goal is to end up with a little less reflex than what I started with when I began working on this stave.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-14.jpg)
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In preparation for bracing, I am going to make some string nocks. I leave the tips pretty wide at this point in case I need to make some minor adjustments to the string alignment. Using a spoke shave and/or rasp I round the sides and belly of the tips and feather them into the mid-limb.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-15.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-16.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-18.jpg)
When the tips are nicely rounded I make a diagonal mark on the back one inch from each tip. This marks the spot where the string groves will be cut.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-19.jpg)
Using a needle rasp or file I cut a notch on each side of the tip using the mark as my guide. This helps ensure that the string groves will line up nicely when they are done.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-20.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-21.jpg)
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After I make the initial starter notches, I carefully cut string groves on each side making sure that they line up nicely on the belly.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-23.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-24.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-25.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-26.jpg)
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Now I'm ready to brace the bow for the first time. Not surprisingly the limbs do not bend evenly when the bow is brought to brace. The top limb is stronger than the bottom. Using a rasp and file I remove wood evenly along the top limb until the limbs balance out.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-27.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-28.jpg)
Now that the limbs are bending evenly I sight down the string to check the string alignment and I am delighted to see that the string bisects the center of the handle perfectly! So no further adjustments to alignment are necessary.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-29.jpg)
And here she is. I'm now ready to turn this girl into a real bow.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySix-30.jpg)
Next up - shaping the handle
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Thanks again Gordon, you're doing a great job here. Very good info and pics.
Can't wait to see how you tiller this babe out, esp. top limb with the wiggles in it.
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Thank you for the nice words Simon. I have to take special care around the dog-leg on the upper limb. A dog-leg is a common feature of vine maple and is prone to failure unless you leave it a little stiff. But you have to allow it to bend a little or the surrounding area will be over-stressed. It is a tricky balancing act.
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Coming along great, Gordon! I love the last picture, "Yea, it's a bow. Wanna fight about it?" Lol
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Who needs a tillering tree :) ;).....really appreciate the way you tiller with saw horses and a vice. 8) :) very interesting I can see me trying that on the next one.
Thanks
DBar
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I'm excited to see the finished bow, awesome thread.
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Very cool Gordon, those needle files look really nice
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Great walkthrough!
I'm curious about using the tensionwood as the back. Would a bow with the back made from opposite wood (the "compression" side) behave differently? This fascinates me because normally reactionwood is considered inferior wood, as well as juvenile wood. However both are used heavily in bow building, seemingly without negative consequences.
My other question is, do you have any problems using the sharpy on the wood? Does it soak in?
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Gordon, this is great for a beginner like me. Can't thank you enough for this! I know it takes forever to post all these photos with such clear explanations and we all really appreciate it.
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Very awesome!
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very cool, wish there more like this.
chuck
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It's not as if we are anxious or anything like that. What's the holdup?? Sorry about that; it's just that this is so informative and I am impatient to see the next step. Great detail and info. Thanks so much.
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Jensen, I think using reaction wood like vine maple for structural applications would be problematic. The wood would be prone to warping and blowing out joints. But it works well for bows if you can tame it. I have made some vine maple bows from the compression side and they are much easier to tiller, but they don't seem as lively - in all cases I ended up heat treating the belly to give them a little more oomph - but don't try that with high tension vine maple! Yes, the sharpie does seep into the wood a bit, but scraps off easily. I don't normally use a sharpie for marking but did so to make it easier to see in the photos.
Dbar, I normally use a tiller tree and long string, but that is just not practical when dealing with this much reflex.
No worries Dave, I'll post another installment this week.
Thank you all for the nice comments!
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Great build Gordon! Thanks for taking the time to give so much explanation and do all the photo... it's fun to follow along.
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Do you use this method to keep it from flipping over on the tree?
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Do you use this method to keep it from flipping over on the tree?
DC, yes that is exactly right.
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Great build Gordon all those staves in the back ground have me drooling all over my phone.
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Do you use this method to keep it from flipping over on the tree?
DC, yes that is exactly right.
I'll use this next time. The last Doug Maple I did had 6 or 8 inches of reflex. I had more clamps and glued on pieces than you could count. this looks way better ;D ;D
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Today I am going to shape the handle. I like a bulbous handle style because it feels comfortable in my hand when shooting and it is easy to make. I begin by reducing the width of the handle area to 1 1/4 inches while also making sure that the sides are square. I make the handle depth 1 1/2".
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-1.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-2.jpg)
I'm going to give the handle a slight swell. I mark the ends of the handle on both sides of the bow. I make my handles 4 inches in length. Then using a coping saw I make 1/8 inch deep cuts on the line and about 1/16 inch on each side.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-3.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-4.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-5.jpg)
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I chisel out the cuts to make groves where the narrowest part of the handle will be.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-6.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-7.jpg)
Using the rounded side of a rasp and the groves as my guide I scoop out the narrow ends of the handle. I do this on each side until the width at each end is 1 inch.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-9.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-10.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-13.jpg)
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Using a micro-plane and/or rasp I feather the groves into the handle and fades thus creating a side to side swell.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-14.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-15.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-17.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-18.jpg)
Then I use a micro-plane and/or rasp to create the palm swell.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-19.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-20.jpg)
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I radius the back and front of the handle with a rasp to begin the rounding process. I finish by rounding off the edges to create a nice round handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-21.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-22.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-23.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-24.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-25.jpg)
Next up - tillering
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Looking good. Can't wait 2 see the finale.
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Looking good. Can't wait 2 see the finale.
Working on pulling the photos together and creating captions now. You don't realize just how many steps there are to making even a basic bow until you try to document them all. This is a lot of work... :P
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Today I am going to tiller the bow to the desired draw length which for this bow is 27 inches. Here is what the bow presently looks like at rest and at brace.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-27.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDaySeven-26.jpg)
On the tiller tree I start by pulling the bow to 15" and make note of the poundage registering on the scale. I then draw the bow to 16" and then back off to 15". If the poundage at 15" remains the same as before it is safe to pull it further to 17". If, however, the poundage at 15" drops, that means the limbs are beginning to take set and I lighten up the poundage a bit by scraping the belly. I then recalibrate the weight at 15" and repeat the process. I continue this process until the bow is pulled to 20".
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-1.jpg)
At 20" the outer limb on the left seems a bit stiff so I scrap a bit of wood off to bring it around more. While removing wood I am careful to make sure that I maintain an even thickness across the width of the limb. In this case you can see that I am removing more wood from the edge of the limb that I have marked with a pencil.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-2.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-3.jpg)
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I make 20" my new reference point and repeat the process of pulling the bow back in increments of one inch while monitoring the poundage at my reference point and removing wood when the poundage at my reference point begins to drop.
Visually the bow does not look like it is bending evenly. But you have to take into account character and unevenness in the limbs. The vine maple I harvest around my parts almost always has character, uneven reflex and whoop-de-dos and so you will rarely have a visually circular bend if you tiller such a bow correctly. The best way to accomplish proper tiller is to let the limb thickness guide you rather than what your eyes see. With the exception of knots and dog legs which need to be left a little thicker than the surrounding area, you want to strive for an even thickness taper down the length of the limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-4.jpg)
Until now I have left the fades and the last six inches of the tips a little stiff. A common mistake that novice bowyers make is to take too much off the fades - this is a sure fire way to end up with an unrecoverable hinge or a lighter draw bow than you planned. But now I am going to remove excess wood from the fades. Do this slowly and monitor the thickness of the limbs through the transition into the fades carefully. Getting a perfect transition through the fades takes practice and you are better off keeping the fades a little on the stiff side until you get the hang of it.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-5.jpg)
I feather the handle into fades and begin rounding the edges of the limbs.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-6.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-7.jpg)
And here is the bow pulled to 24" - only three more inches to go!
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-10.jpg)
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The string alignment has remained true to this point, so now it is safe to narrow the outer limbs and tips to their final dimensions. I like self-nocks to be about 1/2 inch in width. Until now I have left the tips a little stiff. I also work the tips down to their final thickness so they will bend a bit.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-14.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-17.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-16.jpg)
Narrowing the tips has just about obliterated the old string groves so I have to make new ones. I start by rounding the tips and then repeating the steps for making string groves that I described earlier in this build-a-long.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-19.jpg)
I sand the newly cut string groves with 150 grit sand paper and then burnish the shoulders with a burnishing tool. This helps prevent the nocks from being cut by the string.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-22.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-23.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-24.jpg)
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Since I've narrowed the outer limbs I slightly bevel the edges along the back to prevent splinters from pulling up.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-28.jpg)
Now I am going to finish shaping the nocks. I start by rough tapering the sides of using a rasp.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-33.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-35.jpg)
I taper the belly side of the nock using a rasp and then bevel all the edges in preparation for rounding.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-37.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-38.jpg)
I do the final shaping of the nocks with a small carving file.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-39.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-41.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-43.jpg)
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I adjust the brace to shooting height and tiller the bow to the desired draw length. The bow ends up pulling 45# @ 27". This bow will make a fine weapon for hunting deer.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-45.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEight-47.jpg)
Next up - making an arrow rest.
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So awesome. Thanks for putting the work into sharing this!
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Thanks Gordon, I learned a few things. It's a lot of work to do one of these.
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This is excellent! Enjoying following along and learning.
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Masterful job in documenting your process. Thanks much!
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Very very cool to see another build along Gordon. Thanks for more inspiration :)
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Ive learned quite a bit from you Gordon, I appreciate it. It means allot to a novice bowyer to have such resources.
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X 2 on what Oakenshield said!
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This has been a great build along; thoroughly enjoyable. Thanks.
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Hi Gordon, Loving your quality craftsmanship.
Hamish.
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Another incredible build-a-long! THANKS FOR DOING THIS GORDON!!!
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Today I am going to fashion an arrow rest for the bow. I begin with a piece of hardwood cut to 2" x 1/2" x 1/2 ". I bevel the edges on a belt sander and then finish rounding the edges using a sheet of 100 grit sandpaper that I have glued to a flat surface.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-1.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-2.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-3.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-4.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-5.jpg)
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After rounding the edges I cut the piece to 1 inch in length. I save the other half for when I need to make another rest. I bevel the end slightly using the belt sander. I do this so that an arrow has a tendency to stay on the rest rather than roll off.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-6.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-7.jpg)
Then using the belt sander I bevel the front and sides of the rest to create a taper.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-8.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-9.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-10.jpg)
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I mount the rest on a scrap of wood with a bit of super glue and finish shaping with a small carving file. I finish with 150 grit sandpaper.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-11.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-12.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-13.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-14.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-15.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-16.jpg)
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I am going to mount the rest to the bow. I need to make sure that the back of the rest conforms to the curvature of the bow where it will be fastened. I do this by laying a piece of 100 grit sandpaper against the bow and then running the back of the rest up and down along the area where it will be fastened. When I'm done the back of the rest will be perfectly mated to the surface of the bow. I use epoxy or thick super glue to fasten the rest to the bow. A spring clamp holds the rest tight while the glue is curing.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-17.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-18.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-19.jpg)
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A handle that swells out a bit in the front feels better in my hand so I am going to build out the handle. I cut two pieces of thick rawhide 3 3/4" x 3/4". I glue the pieces together with superglue and then clamp them together until the glue has hardened.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-21.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-22.jpg)
I use a belt sander to bevel the edges so they will feather into the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-23.jpg)
I center the rawhide strip on the handle and glue it using thick superglue. I wrap a cord tightly around the strip to make sure that the edges adhere properly.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-24.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-25.jpg)
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Using a small file I round the beveled edges and feather the edges nicely into the handle. I finish by applying a couple of coats of shellac to the rawhide to waterproof it.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-26.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-27.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayNine-28.jpg)
Next up - sanding and finishing
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Gordon,
Nice build along! But I hate it when a guy shows of better single malt than mine!!
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But I hate it when a guy shows of better single malt than mine!!
Unfortunately that stuff is long gone :'(
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Love this walk through! So why not wrap rawhide with fishing line like in the winter project? Are there benefits one way or the other?
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So why not wrap rawhide with fishing line like in the winter project? Are there benefits one way or the other?
Now-a-days I mainly reserve that technique for spliced handles to give them a little extra support.
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So why not wrap rawhide with fishing line like in the winter project? Are there benefits one way or the other?
Now-a-days I mainly reserve that technique for spliced handles to give them a little extra support.
Okay good to know, Thank you. Ill be trying this out with cork rather than rawhide (that's what i have on hand) on the bow i'm working on now, so that saved me some trouble.
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I tend to use cork now-a-days and I do the same process that Gordon shows here. It will work fine. I've also found the fishing line wrap to be a bit superfluous on most handles and find myself doing it less.
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Cork would work well for this purpose.
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Fine job Gordon .......... really like your build-a-longs.....
DBar
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Cool,
I have a Vine Maple that I need to continue work on, it has crazy reflex and a off center outer limb,
What you think Gordon, steam or heat gun to correct those ? I'm thinking of a Mollegabet D/R design.
I go and take a couple of pictures now and post them
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Here is my Vine Maple
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d124/NorthShoreLB/DSCF1649_zpsg4cbso6p.jpg) (http://s34.photobucket.com/user/NorthShoreLB/media/DSCF1649_zpsg4cbso6p.jpg.html)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d124/NorthShoreLB/3dd7e24d-c27c-46ec-a018-a9f47f5f0b23_zpsl9wd6hs1.jpg) (http://s34.photobucket.com/user/NorthShoreLB/media/3dd7e24d-c27c-46ec-a018-a9f47f5f0b23_zpsl9wd6hs1.jpg.html)
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Hey Manny,
I would use steam to straighten out that side bending limb and then hit it with some dry heat to convince it to stay. There isn't much you can do about the excessive reflex other than use methods similar to those I describe in this build-a-long to work it out.
It is good to hear from you my friend!
Gordon
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Thanks Gordon,
I'll do that on the outer limb.
Do you think the same method would work to deflex the fades ?
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Do you think the same method would work to deflex the fades ?
Manny, I do not think that will work. The fades will likely return to their former reflexed profile because the reflex is due to tension. At least that has been my experience.
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just wanted to toss in a humble thank you for taking the time and effort to do this for us newbies...
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Thank you Paco, I appreciate the kind words.
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Over the course of a week I have shot several hundred arrows through the bow to ensure the bow's durability and test the tiller. The tiller changed slightly and I made a few minor adjustments.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-1.jpg)
I start the sanding process by wrapping a piece of 150-grit sandpaper around a nock file and sanding the string groves. I also use a piece of folded sandpaper to slightly round the edges of the string grove.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-5.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-4.jpg)
When the nocks are done, I'm going to sand the bow using progressively finer grit sandpaper, i.e. 100, 150, 220, and 350 grit.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-2.jpg)
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For my first pass with 100-grit I use a sanding block to remove any tool marks from the belly and edges. After that I sand freehand.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-6.jpg)
Periodically I wipe the bow with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits accentuates any scratches or tool marks that I might otherwise miss. I'll go over these imperfections with sandpaper or a scraper until the bow is completely free of any marks.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-8.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-9.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-7.jpg)
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When the bow is sanded I prepare the dye by mixing equal parts of medium brown and green dye in an alcohol and shellac solution.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-10.jpg)
I wipe on the dye using a sponge brush and remove any excess with a clean rag.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-11.jpg)
After letting the bow dry for an hour I remove any raised grain by going over the surface lightly with 350-grit sandpaper. Once the surface has been lightly sanded, the grain will not raise again and I'll brush on another coat of dye.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-12.jpg)
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I'm going to use a wipe on Urethane for finishing the bow. This finish is self-leveling (it won't run), it does not attract dust particles and it is very easy to apply.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-13.jpg)
Using a foam brush I apply the finish liberally on both sides and edges of a limb. I take a clean rag and wipe off the excess leaving enough finish on to give it a wet appearance. I do the same for the other limb and handle area and that's all there is to it! I let the finish dry overnight.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-16.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-17.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-18.jpg)
When the third coat of finish has been applied and cured I lightly sand the surface using 350-grit sandpaper. I Use very light pressure and don't make any more passes than are necessary or you risk sanding completely through the finish.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayEleven-21.jpg)
After sanding, I wipe the bow down and lay down another coat of finish. I'll put a total of 6 coats of finish on the bow.
Next up - rubbing out the finish
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I have applied six coats of urethane to the bow and am going to rub out the finish to get that silky satin look. Before rubbing out the finish I let it cure for at least 2 days to make sure it is well hardened. I will use the following materials to accomplish this (from bottom to top) 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper, synthetic steel wool, and powdered pumice stone.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-1.jpg)
I start by sanding over the finish using 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and water. I am trying to get the micro grooves out of the finish and make it perfectly smooth. Be careful to not sand too much or you risk going all the way through the finish. As you sand you should see a slurry of water and finish develop. Wipe this off with a rag before going to the next step.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-2.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-3.jpg)
When the limbs are thoroughly dry, I rub the limbs down lightly with a patch of medium synthetic steel wool. I wipe the limbs off and then do the same with fine synthetic steel wool.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-4.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-5.jpg)
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After rubbing down the bow with the fine grit wool I will use powdered pumice to achieve that ultra-satin look. I begin by mixing some of the medium course pumice stone with vegetable oil and stirring it into a slurry.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-6.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-7.jpg)
I apply the pumice/oil slurry onto the bow with a clean cloth and rub it carefully into the finish. I then wipe off all of the pumice/oil material from the bow with a soft clean cloth.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-8.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-9.jpg)
I repeat the above process using fine pumice stone. When I am done, the finish will literally glow.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-10.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-11.jpg)
Next up - making a leather handle wrap
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Thanks for this Gordon. When you mix up the dye are you just making a 1 or 2 # cut shellac and putting dye in it or is it even thinner than that?
And thanks for the mineral spirits idea. I will be trying that today.
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Hey DC, I make the shellac mix a little on the thin side for this application.
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Nice work Gordon, never seen the gel topcoat before interesting... :)
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Now I am going to fashion a leather handle for the bow. The photo below shows the tools and materials that I will use.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-12.jpg)
I begin by cutting a rectangular piece of tanned elk leather 4 inches by 4 1/2 inches. The handle will be 4 inches long. Leather has a directional grain which you can determine by stretching it. The leather will stretch more one way than the other. You want to orient the grain so you will get a minimal amount of stretch while pulling together the edges with the lacing. I use a square to make sure that I cut the edges perfectly square.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-13.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-14.jpg)
I wrap the leather around the handle with the 4 inch edge parallel to the bow. I pull the edge to be laced tight at the top and make a mark.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-15.jpg)
I do the same for the middle and bottom of the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-16.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-17.jpg)
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I line the marks up with a French curve and cut off the excess leather. I will repeat the previous steps and make my marks on the opposite edge if I still need to fine tune the fit.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-18.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-19.jpg)
I use a 3 prong 1/16" leather thonging chisel to make an equal number of lacing holes along each edge - 19 holes for this handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-21.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-22.jpg)
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I also cut an arrow pass from a piece of the same leather. I make the pass 1/2" x 1 1/2" and use a plate as my guide while making the cut with a sharp Exacto blade.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-23.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-24.jpg)
I dye the handle leather and arrow pass with tan leather dye. I make sure that I also dye any exposed edges.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-25.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-26.jpg)
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I wrap the leather around the handle and mark the location of the arrow rest. I then spread some barge cement on the area of the handle that will contact the arrow rest and the arrow rest itself.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-27.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-28.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-29.jpg)
While the cement is curing I cut a 3 foot length of 1/16" leather lacing and attach lacing needles to each end.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-30.jpg)
I let the cement cure for about 15 minutes. I fit the leather onto the handle and press the leather into the arrow rest letting the contact cement do its work.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-31.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-32.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-33.jpg)
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Because I have an uneven number of holes (19) on an edge I start the lacing with a horizontal stitch rather than a cross stitch.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-34.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-35.jpg)
I thread each end of the lacing to the next hole on the opposing side. The lacing will cross itself underneath the leather when done.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-36.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-37.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-38.jpg)
I then thread each end of the lacing though the next hole on the opposing side while crossing the lacing over the top of the leather.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-39.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-40.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-41.jpg)
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I repeat the previous steps until I reach the bottom of the handle.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-42.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-43.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-44.jpg)
When the lacing is done, I put a drop of superglue underneath the final stitch to fix it and trim the excess lace.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-45.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-46.jpg)
After the handle is laced I glue on the arrow pass using thick superglue
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-47.jpg)
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I like to put a finish on my handles as it repeals water and keeps the handle from getting grimy. I use a product called Clear-Lac which is used for finishing leather saddles.
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-48.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildDayTwelve-49.jpg)
After applying the leather finish I let the handle cure overnight. I clean my brush with a 50/50 mix of lacquer thinner and acetone.
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And here is the finished bow. It is 62" ntn and pulls 45# @ 27". It's a pretty lively little bow and will make a fine weapon for deer hunting or just plinking around at the 3D range. Thank you for following along and I hope you enjoyed it!
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildFinished-9_1.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildFinished-11.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildFinished-2.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildFinished-3.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildFinished-4.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/VmBuildFinished-5.jpg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/.highres/VmBuildFinished-6.jpg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/.highres/VmBuildFinished-8.jpg)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/yy217/gferlitsch/Vine%20Maple%20Build%20A%20Long/.highres/VmBuildFinished-7.jpg)
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Thank you very much Gordon!! Very nice bow ;D
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Nice looking bow, Gordon. I learned some good ideas from reading through that. Thanks for taking the time. These things aren't easy to do and you do them very well.
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Gordon, I wouldn't be building the bows I build if it weren't for your build alongs.
It's always cool to see how the "masters" do things, you sure have an eye for finish and detail.
I appreciate how you take no short cuts in your builds, and make each bow special.
Thanks for taking the time to do this, I know it must take a lot of time, consciously stopping what you doing to take photos, so cheers!
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Wizardgoat said it perfect. l second his thoughts with a great big Thank you!
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the really nice compliments.
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Thanks a lot for this, Gordon, and congratulations for your crafting skills.
Regards from sunny Spain :)
David
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very nice on the finish work,, and I like the way you handled the tiller ,, congrats
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This is build-a-long (and the others) is worth a million bucks.
I feel like it should be replicated and spread in different formats and media (with full res photo's).
I think you could reach many audience's and inspire a huge amount of people with these build alongs. Truly book worthy.
Perhaps securing your intelluctual property rights or ensuring that this remains open-source public domain would be the first step to making this available to the greater public.
Once again your craftmanship, attention to detail and artistry is a complete inspiration (not to mention the neatness of your shop).
Congrats and thank you so much for the extra time and effort you put into producing this work of art. Words cannot express the admiration.
-TN
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TN, thank you for the wonderful compliment. I have no desire to profit from this work. I am simply paying something back to the PA community for all they have done for me and others.
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I love this build-along. I think it's the most thorough walk through in text and pictures that I've ever seen. Thanks for posting it, Gordon.
Beautiful bow!
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Thank You So Much Gordon for the commitment to teaching us in fine detail. The bow turned out spectacularly and I learned SOOOOO many of the finer details that get left out in other mediums.
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I enjoyed following along on your build Gordon. There is a lot of valuable information to be gained from this thread. Nicely organized and clear pictures and explanations of your methods for all you do to take it from stave to finished bow. I learned a lot from your past hazelnut build along and a bit more from this one. Thanks for taking the time to do it again. :)
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Gordon,
Thank you for taking the time to put this build-along together for us. Once again I learned several new ideas and bowyer tricks I can take back to the shop. I am sure I will be back to this post numerous times to help me along the way.
As to your finished vine maple bow: It is a classic design we have seen many times, but executed with the highest standards of workmanship and finish detail. I have seen many bows here with beautiful tillers, but few that combined it with such a flawless finish. BOM material.
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I for one think your tutorials are awesome. I pick up on little bitts of info. like using mineral spirits to identify tool marks, genius.
chuck
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The best step by step buildalong I know, very precise and informative. Thanks for sharing your technics Gordon.
The end result is absolutely stunning, finish and tiller is spot on. This is a master's work for sure!
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I've thoroughly enjoyed your build-along with Vine Maple, outstanding work, excellent presentation. Thank you for posting it. Dang, that's a fine looking bow.
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Thank you for the build along and congratulations on a fine bow. Just bookmarked it for future reference. You are a true master teacher of this craft!!
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Very well done Gordon, Your finish work and attention to detail is truly masterful
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Nicely done and thank you for the time you put into these buildalongs. Russ
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Another great buildalong, and very fine vine maple bow, Gordon.
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I now feel thoroughly inadequate.
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Thank you all for the really great comments - I'm so pleased that this build-a-long has been so well received.
Nakedfeet, no need to feel inadequate. The purpose of this thread is to give folks the confidence to build a bow like this. It is not that difficult if you take your time with it.
Again, thank you all so much.
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Another beautiful Bow Gordon, thanks for taking us along. :)
Pappy
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Thank you Gordon, amazing build! Loved all the photos, it really helps understand. Your an artful craftsman sir. Well done
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That's great Gordon! I have a vine maple stave roughed out in my woodshop, and when I get around to working on it I'll be looking through this thread again and again. Great information. Thanks for sharing this!
Preston
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Yet another great build along Gordon. I learned a lot from this one as well as your hazel bow. That is for thanking the time to do this.
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Gordon, I was hoping to find a new buildalong here, and lo and behold, vine maple. Thank you so very, very much.
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Another great build-a-long.Very nice and ooodles of pictures to boot.
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Very helpful Gordon. I now have the confidence to tiller my 4 1/2" reflex yew stave. VM is pretty forgiving wood so is it safe to assume that following this process should work on yew?
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Hello Gordon,
May you please explain to me the reason that the bow will start to set as you tiller it if you haven't taken enough off the belly? If this has to do with the thickness of the limb and the characteristics of the wood, it seems like this would limit the draw weight of the bow. How can you increase draw weight possibilities and avoid set in the limbs? Increase limb length is my thought...
Thank you, I am thoroughly impressed by the intricacy and efficiency of your work.
Isaac C.
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Vine maple is unusual in that it has a tendency to curl into reflex when a stave is split and dried. My theory is that the wood cells on the tension side are actually contracting as they dry and by working the bow you are reducing reflex by stretching the tension cells as opposed to compressing the cells on the belly. Of course, at some point, the cells are stretched as far as they will go and if you are not careful the bow will begin to take set.
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Vine maple is unusual in that it has a tendency to curl into reflex when a stave is split and dried. My theory is that the wood cells on the tension side are actually contracting as they dry and by working the bow you are reducing reflex by stretching the tension cells as opposed to compressing the cells on the belly. Of course, at some point, the cells are stretched as far as they will go and if you are not careful the bow will begin to take set.
Thank you, that makes sense. If stretched too far the fibers would yield. When the thickness is decreased, the moment is lessened on the outer fibers.
Do you have a rule of thumb for draw weight vs limb length (or width)? It seems like the only way to go higher in draw weight would be to go longer (less stress on the limb).
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Isaac, I have made a lot of vine maple bows and I generally have a pretty good feel for the proper proportions when I start a bow. But I haven't tried to work out a formula. What kind of bow are you trying to make?
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Thank You for not only a very well documented build but also answering all of the questions posted. looks like a very tricky and interesting wood.
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Vine maple is unusual in that it has a tendency to curl into reflex when a stave is split and dried. My theory is that the wood cells on the tension side are actually contracting as they dry and by working the bow you are reducing reflex by stretching the tension cells as opposed to compressing the cells on the belly. Of course, at some point, the cells are stretched as far as they will go and if you are not careful the bow will begin to take set.
Hi Gordon,
I have some wood that grows the same way and tends to dry into reflex also. I am considering it as a backing for a lam bow. Can you say whether the vine maple seems to break more or less often in tension, (as compared to other bowwoods)?
Thanks
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Not to speak for Gordon, but vine maple is pretty incredible in tension. I've never seen one fail in tension.
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What Weylin said - vine maple is very strong tension wood.