Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Sam Dugo on September 03, 2015, 09:48:57 am
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Hello, been busy but finally got around to trying to make a bow. I'm going to start off making a red oak board bow for my son. Any suggestions would be great.
Here is what i go planned so far.
board is 48" long 1.5" wide and about 1/2" thick, i believe the grain is pretty good. I marked the limb tips at 1/2" wide and the wade starts at the middle of the limb to the tips.
the riser is 7" long and and i plan to fade it in and i would like to cut a shelf, not center shot but enough to let a arrow sit on it.
Questions:
1, should the throat of the grip or the shelf be dead center of the bow?
2, are my limb fade OK?
3, should i take the thickness of the limbs down any? i want the bow to be about 20@24"
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grain
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"board is 48"
you should start with about a 54" board much better success at good tiller.
"i want the bow to be about 20@24" should be attainable but 1/2" is to thick.
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I agree with bow 101, start over with a new board if possible. If you must use this board, make it bend through the handle- to do that you will want to remove the riser.
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but, to answer your questions:
1. yes the throat of the grip can be dead center, some would put the throat above center.
2. Your limb TAPER looks fine, that is the way you transition in width near the tips. You asked about limb FADES, though- you haven't cut in the fades yet- that's the thickness taper from handle to limb.
3. Yes you should take the thickness down- that's tillering. Most people start with a board 3/4 thick, but for a short 20 lb bow, you could use a 1/2 inch board. (but I still think you should start over if you can).
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My 6 year old Son is very small, with a 54" bow the limb would be maybe 2" off the ground.
So how thick should them limbs be to start with, 1/4"?
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if he's six, then that's a different story... how tall? I'd guess he'd pull a lot less than 20 lbs- perhaps more like 10 or less. His draw length will be really short too- maybe 20 inches or less. His bow would be way scaled down from an adult- narrower, shorter, etc. I've never made a bow that light in poundage- but suspect it will want to be less than an inch wide and less than 3/8 thick at midlimb.
So, if he's about 4 feet tall- the wood you have is plenty, even with a stiff handle. but in a year, or two, he'll outgrow it.
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I have made 56" bows pull 26 several times. Right now I am making a 54@26.
Leave all your width out the fades for about 6-8" then pyramid taper. Leave your tips 1/2 wide to keep a wide taper to tje tips for added working limb width. What you are wanting is very doable if done like this. Make the entire tiller circular all the way to the fades.
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if he's six, then that's a different story... how tall? I'd guess he'd pull a lot less than 20 lbs- perhaps more like 10 or less. His draw length will be really short too- maybe 20 inches or less. His bow would be way scaled down from an adult- narrower, shorter, etc. I've never made a bow that light in poundage- but suspect it will want to be less than an inch wide and less than 3/8 thick at midlimb.
So, if he's about 4 feet tall- the wood you have is plenty, even with a stiff handle. but in a year, or two, he'll outgrow it.
he is about 40" tall and i measured his draw it's about 16" and he can pull 10# ok, think that would be a good weight for him. i said 20@24 to give him a little growing room, sorry i should have said all that in the beginning. I also have two daughters (4 and 2) that could use this bow also, plus i had the board on hand.
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Ok, cool. Just remember, this bow with a stiff handle will probably break if drawn by a 9 year old. That is, it is not long enough to be drawn much past 20 inches... If it had a bendy handle, it might draw to 24. So just keep it for little kids only. Once you see how fun bow making is, they will get a bow a year each, no doubt.
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Ok, cool. Just remember, this bow with a stiff handle will probably break if drawn by a 9 year old. That is, it is not long enough to be drawn much past 20 inches... If it had a bendy handle, it might draw to 24. So just keep it for little kids only. Once you see how fun bow making is, they will get a bow a year each, no doubt.
10 - 4 .... I was into making flintlocks for a while, really fun but super time consuming and really $$$, 120 - 150 hours and $800 was the norm per gun. Bow makin just might be a little better for me.
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Make the bow 48" three inch handle with one inch fades center the handle on the bow, straight taper from 1-1/2" wide to 1/2" tips and make the limbs 1/4" thick the full length I've made many of these and they are great for youngsters make the center of the handle 1" wide and 3/4" at the start of each fade and glue a rest on, it can be half a golf tee some cork or leather , good luck and happy building
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Make the bow 48" three inch handle with one inch fades center the handle on the bow, straight taper from 1-1/2" wide to 1/2" tips and make the limbs 1/4" thick the full length I've made many of these and they are great for youngsters make the center of the handle 1" wide and 3/4" at the start of each fade and glue a rest on, it can be half a golf tee some cork or leather , good luck and happy building
sounds good Bubby, now when you say straight taper from 1.5" to 1/2" are you talking from the handle to tip or about middle of the limb to tip? Thanks
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From the end of the fade it will be 1-1/2" wide go in a straight line from there to the tips, pyramid layout
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Sam, you've got a good start. I've only made one board bow, well 2, but the first one exploded. I've been building from staves, or branches ever since. Vine maple makes a great kids bow. I've made 4 so far for the grandkids. Way cooler than a board bow.
Secondly, I've been building Pennsylvania longrifles for about 15 years now. 200+ hours, and over $1000 in parts, but sometimes, I think bows are more difficult.
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Sam, you've got a good start. I've only made one board bow, well 2, but the first one exploded. I've been building from staves, or branches ever since. Vine maple makes a great kids bow. I've made 4 so far for the grandkids. Way cooler than a board bow.
Secondly, I've been building Pennsylvania longrifles for about 15 years now. 200+ hours, and over $1000 in parts, but sometimes, I think bows are more difficult.
I hear ya, this is just a starting point for me and i had the board handy. the hours + $ starts racking up when you start carving and inlaying...
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ok so here is what i did yesterday, got it roughed out and got the tip overlays glued on.
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few more pics
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With a stiff-handled bow, bending stresses, when they arrive at limb-to-handle juncture, need to be absorbed gradually by handle area. Otherwise there's likelihood that glue joint between limb and riser will fail and handle pop off.
Keyword is "gradually".
Imo, ramps shaped into ends of handle need to slope much more gradually down into limb. Looking at lots of bows posted here on PA will illustrate.
I made same mistake on first bows.
Good luck!
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I agree with knoll- fades are too abrupt. I think you can fix them and still have enough wood. is the main lam still 1/2 inch?
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I agree with knoll- fades are too abrupt. I think you can fix them and still have enough wood. is the main lam still 1/2 inch?
Ok i see, i can feather them out a bit for sure. No i took the main lam down to 3/8", probably will need more but figured i can always take more off.
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when you feather the riser, don't take any off the main lam (yet). this will hopefully keep the riser stiff.
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when you feather the riser, don't take any off the main lam (yet). this will hopefully keep the riser stiff.
ok
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This is a kids bow i posted a few weeks ago hopefully you can see the fade transition (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/kid%20bow/20150810_184246_zpszmxskhbr.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/kid%20bow/20150810_184246_zpszmxskhbr.jpg.html)