Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: James Rodney on October 05, 2015, 06:48:13 pm
-
Before i start this, i want to say I've already asked a few different people about this and didn't exactly get the feed back that i was looking for. everyone keeps saying that center shot is a waste of time and not "primitive". but in all honesty, that's what i want. a Flat bow, with center shot. i'm just getting into this so my terminology might be a little off. for starters, i need 30+ draw length, which puts me having to make a 68 in bow.. which is to big for what i want. I want something shorter, with 50-60# draw @ 30+ inches. what kind of wood should i use? should i forget making something Flat with center shot? i actually want to hunt with it. I've tried compounds and hated it, couldn't ever get one with the draw for me. the picture i attached, i'd like to make something like that.. but i'm sure that's something waaayyy down the line for me. BUT i will do it. eventually.
-
How tall are you? Why the need for a "Short" bow with a long draw? Why the need for center shot? I came from a compound world, and now prefer to shoot off my hand, not even a rest. What you like is what you like, and no one should fault you for that.
Get ready for an addiction, not many make just one.
-
I'm 6'5". and i just don't want a bow almost as tall as me while i'm stalking through the woods. Having to worry about it catching everything. I don't usually hunt in trees. I'd also say i'm inexperienced with bow's in general.. my Matthews bow has a 28 inch draw and i really can't get it back to a comfortable full draw, right elbow is bent and can't get my left hand back to get a good aim. and i've mad a small bow for my daughter, more of a rough draft, and the off center(ness) really just kinda erks me.. i suppose i could make one without center shot for me and test the waters with it. I'm just so used to having it, i think it would throw my game off if i switched.
-
Well I'd say you need to build a few bows before you try to go short, what exactly is your idea of short anyway, as far as a centershot i wouldn't but there's no reason you can't have a cut in shelf
-
48 inches or so.. is about where i want to be. 50 or 52 is fine as well.
i have 6 staves sitting in a Kiln now. 2 dogwood, which i'm hearing is really hard to work. 2 maples, 2 oaks. i don't see myself giving up on this. It's addicting.
-
60" bendy handle Woodland style flat bow could work for your 30" draw but it will have to be tillered perfectly. As for the center shot, it is not necessary unless you don't understand the relationship between the bow and arrow. A well made, properly spined arrow will fly well from any style bow if you make the arrow for the bow and your style of shooting.
It sounds like you would rather have a glass bow. Bingham Projects(a sponsor of PA) has info about and materials for building glass bows.
-
o.k. lets say you want a 50 inch bow. if you go with the very best piece of osage {best bow wood God ever made} , made it bend through the handle {how youd put a shelf on something like that is beyond me} make proper arrows for it {spined right, id assume match them in weight ect so you can be as accurate as you could be}, you could get a 25 in. draw bow. half the bows length. without over working the bow. o.k. lets say you get a exceptional piece of wood, over work it, maybe 26 in draw. bacxk that bow with several layers of sinew, maybe get 28 in. of draw at 50 lbs. might as well put a horn belly on that thing, but there in lays a problem.....horn only bends so far.but hey you could get 60 to 80 lbs at 28 in. sorry i dont see it happening....but like a tailor lets suit you up with a bow , of wood, with a backing if need be, short as possible for your draw and weight expectations... chime in fellas....Tony
-
I'll settle without Center Shot.. I want to make a traditional style bow. Lets say for now, i'm not hunting with it. I just want to have one that i can shoot and get good at shooting with. If i'm making a Flat bow, out of the wood that i have, what would be your choice to start with? Dogwood, Maple, or oak?
-
Maple is easy for beginners. U don't want it kiln dried though. Makes it a little more brittle. U can't go wrong with a 60" bendy handle. I'm 6'4" and adjusted my draw length to 28". Makes things a lot easier.
-
so i should use the wood wet? i split it, put Glue on the ends and made a makeshift kiln, and threw them in there.. they've only been in there 3 days.
-
You need to either deflex the handle sharply and/or use wider sinewed limbs. Marc St Louis frequently posts bows that are what you are looking for. The centreshot thing is doable but requires that you kind of offset the handle layout or use a beefier handle section with a slightly longer upper fade to move the bend away from the cutout to a safe degree.
You can also rather severely "neck" the arrow pass area so that the bow is at least closer to centreshot.
-
deflex is away from you, and reflex is towards you right?
-
I think you are looking for a glass bow. The shortest you could go with a stiff handle and 30 inch draw is probably around 66 inches for a selfbow, and that is REALLY pushing the limits.Ive seen some 54 inch stiff handled osage bows that draw 26 inches but it is pushing the wood to its max. I would make a 72 inch selfbow to start and then work your way down to around 68 inches for a stiff handled bow with a shelf. for a bendy handle selfbow you could push it all the way down to around 60 inches or maybe a bit less if your really good. But to get a 30 inch draw at 66 inches for a stiff handled and 60 inches for a bendy, your tiller would need to be PERFECT. For a sinew backed bow you might could get down to the 50 inch range, but again, the tiller would have to be perfect. As for the staves sitting in your drying box, Dogwood is a very good, hard wood, it makes excellent bows. Maple, however is a bit on the soft side, unless its Vine Maple I would be cautious, Red Maple is a good bow wood as well but any other maple and you might need some special design considerations. Oak is a good bow wood in general, do you know what species the Oak and Maple are? That could help us give you some designs.
-
For someone who is 6'5 A 68" bow is proportionally the same for someone who is 6' and has a 63" bow, which is quite maneuverable, as I am 5'10' draw 28" and prefer to hunt with stiff handled bows 64-68" long.
Sure you can go shorter, by widening the working part of the limb, up to a certain point, but with a long draw you are going to have to deal with finger pinch due to string angle. This can be alleviated with recurving. All in all not the kind of bow you are going to have good success with if you are a novice bowyer.
I would consult pro bowyers(both glass and natural materials) and see what they recommend, because as you have found an off the shelf production bow is not comfortable for your large stature. A custom bow from a decent bowyer will fit your needs, yep its going to cost more but you will be shooting quicker than if have to learn how to be a bowyer, then get to the stage where you are skilled enough to properly build the bow you really want.
-
Deflex is towards you when you are shooting and reflex is away from you when you are shooting.
-
I don't want a Glass or fiberglass bow. I don't mind making mistakes and making several. SO i'll omit the need for a short bow, and make something long. I'll go 70's in length if that means being able to make the draw that i want. SO, starting over, forget everything else i've said. If i want 30+ draw, @ 50-60#.. and a center shot. Flat bow recruve.. excuse me if i'm sounding stupid. I'm still learning terminology.
what would i need to do with those specs?
-
72 inches in length should be enough. I would go with a 5 inch handle and 1.5 inch fades to a 1.75 inch wide limb, holding that width until a foot from the tips and from there tapering to 1/2 inch nocks. Start your thickness taper a 3/4 inch at the fades to 5/8 inch at the tips. you will need to make the handle much thicker than the rest of the limb to accommodate your shelf so a thicker handle is necessary. Good luck!
-
o.k. you got maple. you got dogwood. i never made a bow of dogwood. so ill pass on that for now. but i have used maple. its a nice easy to split, easy to work bow. i did not say its the best wood out there. i said its good for a bow though. o.k. lets adjust your draw. can you live with 28 in? i mean i draw 26 in. max. most times shooting at squirrels and soda cans i bet i half draw most times. why? i dont know but i hit them up close. maybe thats why. so could you live with 28 in? ok 28 inches doubled is what? 56 inches. its not the "best " bow wood, it is a newby bow, just sayin....lets go 60 in. and have a bow thatll shoot and you wont break right off the bat. hey im making a eastern woodlands bend through the handle flat bow as we speak. stay along with my post as i go, do the same as i do. {im not a guru or anything but ive made some bows} o.k. so its gonna bend through the handle, its going to be 60 in. long, better make it 1 3/4 in. wide just beyond the handle area for safety sake. lets make that bendy handle a good 6 in. your a tall fella.gives you plenty of room for your hand and your arrow to grace itself across your hand. might want to wear a glove the first couple arrows you make for it and shoot. off the hand takes some getting used to.have to make decent arrows not to cut yourself.we will cut in the handle area to 1 5/8 in. it wont be center shot. youll need to make a good spined arrow but it will be better than leaving it wider. gives you a little margin to work with. a little more forgiving that way.reflex is away from you, deflex is bending toward you. you dont want to dry out that wood fast as a kiln would do. its not winter and it will split, crack, get real nasty on you its still plenty wet. first things first. remove the bark. look down the stave, any twists? any sideways bends? any up or down bends? lets shape this puppy. lets say hey its straighht and its not twisty. o.k. cut it down to 61 inches {theres a reason} make it 2 inches wide. from tip to tip. make it 1 5/8 inches thick. let set 2 weeks on its belly on the floor under your bed.so you dont step on it, trip over it, or be tempted to mess with it any further. lol in 2 weeks ill get back to ya. Tony
-
Maybe some pics would help as well.
-
haha, ok. I'll cut a fresh one tomorrow.. because the one i have does have a little twist in it. I'm really looking forward to the dogwood stave tho, it's almost perfectly straight without knots, that i can see. but i'll cut a fresh maple tomorrow. and a few more Red oaks.
-
i don't have any pics just yet. i only have a few split and ends sealed.
-
I built a 72" ntn bow #60@32 with a maple board, if i can make a suggestion set the staves aside to season a while, get a good hickory board or hard maple board and make a flatbow, I'll send you some links for info and dimensions, great way to get going while the good staves season and you will get a great shooting bow, no problem cutting in a shelf but for starters only cut it in about three eighths or so when you get some experiance you can go deeper
-
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
You can use these dimensions just make it 70" overall length
-
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
Here's the link to jawges site lots of good info including picking out the right board
-
And i don't by that kiln dryed bs we put bows in hotbox's all the time
-
Try to get red maple if you can, the other maples are generally more marginal as bow wood. Red maple is a okay bowwood but vine maple and sugar/rock maple are very good. So try to gut one of those.
-
Learn to build a bow properly, learn to tiller a bow properly, learn the terminology and once you get to that point you can build just what you want. Until then you are setting yourself up for disappointment. IMO Not a good place to be, especially with some of the best wood bow builder in the world wanting to help you. Let them!
-
if the dogwood is as good as a few of the guys mentioned and its a decent piece you have there, make the maple and oak bows first. better to screw up something not as good as a great stave.who knows, you might learn a lot from the first two to make a great dogwood bow. i made a few bows but i took several years break. i started back with the worst chunk of elm i had split out. why? i didnt want to make mistakes on the best chunk of elm i had.lol it turned out to be one of the funnest shooting bows ive ever built.or maybe i missed shooting a bow, any bow that much. but it turned out to be a good shooting bow.now im working that better piece.Tony
-
The guys here will help you if you let them. Look at lots of posts. Ask lots of questions. You will learn a lot. I do everyday.
-
Double you draw length 30x2 =60 and the non bending handle/say 4 inches and the fads/let go 1 1/2 fads because you want it shorter =7 + 60 =67 and build a non bending handle bow from the dog wood. 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 depending on the weight you want at the fads to mid limb ,then tapper to 1/2 to the tips. Tiller slow and easy and work it a lot as you move out on the draw length, this should give a pretty good chance at coming out with a shooting bow, mind you this is with good clean straight wood and border line of what I would go for if I was building a bow for 30 inch draw. If I was building one of that draw length for someone I wouldn't go any less than 70 inches. Bendy handle you can get by with shorter but I have very little experience with them so if you want shorter listen to what they have said above. :) If you leave the handle a little deeper you can almost center shot the arrow on a stiff handle bow if that is what you want, and it seems to be. :)
Pappy
-
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
You can use these dimensions just make it 70" overall length
I actually really like this.. and i'm taking all of you guy's words in. And i am listening. I just want to say that. But i also want to do what i want. but i'll save that for later down the road when i've made at least a dozen bows. this bow here Bubby, that you linked.. i have a few questions on.. First, he glued two pieces of wood together? overtime is that a smart thing to do? because that's really right up there in what i want to do. i want to layer different color woods into my handle.. I'm a guitar player, and the neck on my guitar has maple, and mahogany fret boards. what do you guys think?
and also, i am def going to save the dogwood piece, it's a very hard, hard piece of wood and almost flawless, i'll link a picture of it for you guys to see today.
-
Then by all means do what you want. :-\
Pappy
-
W re all doing what we want. That's why we're here.
-
I think you might have taken that the wrong way pappy. I appreciate all the help and advice. I'm going to stick to making longer, not center shot bows. what i meant is, i know what i want, just achieving that goal right now isn't possible, maybe later down the road. Then again, later down the road, i may realize that what i'm saying i want now, will change. I've already made 2 board bows, one tiny one. 28 inches long that i recently was told i bent the wrong way, lol. So, i started another, and instead of heating and bending, i just put a string on it. and it seems to be doing pretty good! i'm going to get my little girl to shoot it later today, see what she thinks.
I live in Rock Hill South Carolina.
-
Are you still at that stage where you believe bows are made already bent or "carved" that way?
-
No problem at all, it just seems what you want isn't possible for you at this early point, you have to crawl before you walk, we get lots here that want to run right off and that is usually filled with disappointment and we certainly don't want that because most just quite and move on. Good luck and keep us posted on how it's going.
Pappy
-
Are you still at that stage where you believe bows are made already bent or "carved" that way?
NO! I've done "some" research! lol I took a piece of oak, got it down to the thickness i wanted, put some olive oil on it, took a heat gun and started wrapping it around a wine bottle.. lol
-
James the bow in the build a long is a selfbow the only glued on pc is the handle easy to do with lots of pretty woods you can build backed bows with maple hickory or bamboo backs and bellt wood of contrasting colors but I'd get a fee under your belt before you try that, you are going to love this " hobby "
-
I'm already in love with it to be honest. I can be stubborn with giving up on stuff.. i won't be satisfied until i've made one that awe's myself. and trust me, when i get a notion in my head. NO one, can stop the force! <<<<<<<10 years later >>>>>>>>
damn it james, why didn't you listen to those guys who were trying to help you! now all i'm doing is sleeping with bows! Eat bow cereal! Bow soup!
but i'm just trying to make my masterpiece!
-
Been biting my tongue since this thread started last night.
Dude...get a book...do a LOT of google searching/reading...look at lots of build alongs...pick a SIMPLE plan and then start...if a question pops up then search first..if ya cant find the answer (which im sure it already has been answered before)..then ask. A book needs to be written to answer all your q's(and thank god there is nowadays),and no one here has the time to type out a book like response online. Most replies will be short,sweet,n to the point lacking detail on how to do just what was said. Sooo...go get your hands dirty first then.......START SIMPLE...a 66-70" bend in the handle bow is the easiest to learn. Because anyone with little to no experince can cut out a piece of wood to bow blank dimensions...but that doesnt make a bow. What makes a bow is TILLERING!!! Surprised no one had emphasized this more. Tillering is where a bow is made..or not. And its the hardest thing to learn. After you got a game plan,and especially before you start bending it do some serious searching,reading on how to tiller a wood bow. That is going to be the toughest part hands down.
-
One more thing. The search function on this website is not very good. If you want to find something on here go Google. For example if you want tillering examples, enter "tiller primitive archer" or tiller check primitive archer" into Google. Leave out the quotes. It will find way more than the sites search.
-
the search function works fine if you know how to use it. Want to search bow related things, be in the bow section when you search them. Knapping, in the knapping area.
-
Well, shut my mouth. I've been fighting that for 2 years. Thanks JoJo
-
Well, shut my mouth. I've been fighting that for 2 years. Thanks JoJo
I just figured it out the other day. I really hated it too, and then one day it worked, so I looked at all the factors that came in line.
-
James, I'm the Pat you talked top on the phone the other night. The one Marc referred you to.
-
Been biting my tongue since this thread started last night.
Dude...get a book...do a LOT of google searching/reading...look at lots of build alongs...pick a SIMPLE plan and then start...if a question pops up then search first..if ya cant find the answer (which im sure it already has been answered before)..then ask. A book needs to be written to answer all your q's(and thank god there is nowadays),and no one here has the time to type out a book like response online. Most replies will be short,sweet,n to the point lacking detail on how to do just what was said. Sooo...go get your hands dirty first then.......START SIMPLE...a 66-70" bend in the handle bow is the easiest to learn. Because anyone with little to no experince can cut out a piece of wood to bow blank dimensions...but that doesnt make a bow. What makes a bow is TILLERING!!! Surprised no one had emphasized this more. Tillering is where a bow is made..or not. And its the hardest thing to learn. After you got a game plan,and especially before you start bending it do some serious searching,reading on how to tiller a wood bow. That is going to be the toughest part hands down.
Well, Sir. I have been reading. I've made two little bow's for my daughter already, one was stupid, the other not so much. and i have to agree, Tillering is the biggest pain, and the most crucial part. i've been reading on how to's for weeks now. A man can read all day on how to do anything, until he starts putting his hands on it. those words are meaningless. and i'm sorry my choice of a subject unnerved you. I'm already seeing the folly of it. but i still stand firm on what i want. for now. but i'll change the size as everyone suggests. i'll do a 70" @ 28"D and 45-50#. center shot is going to depend on the wood choice. i really like the look of a shelf on bows.
-
James, don't read what isn't there in a post. blackhawk will tell you what you are doing wrong, and won't pull punches. We see a lot of people look very excited to start building bows, and then disappear for whatever reason. There are also a number of people who ask what to do, and then do what they want anyway, and then get mad when it doesn't work. There is more than one way to skin a cat, but there are also thousands of ways to skin a cat the wrong way. The members here are willing to help you learn how not to start down the wrong path. Bad habits stick fast. It may take awhile to learn how to do it right, but it is still a shorter path than learning to do it wrong, and then having to relearn to do it right.
-
No, i am grateful for the advice, and i am listening. just because i'm saying i still want what i want. doesn't mean i'm not listening and i plan to use the advice. i have a mental picture of what i want in my head. and i don't plan on going anywhere. this is a relatively cheap hobby, and i have several friends that are getting interested in it at the same time. I'm going to do what was suggested and make as many bows as i can.
-
No, i am grateful for the advice, and i am listening. just because i'm saying i still want what i want. doesn't mean i'm not listening and i plan to use the advice. i have a mental picture of what i want in my head. and i don't plan on going anywhere. this is a relatively cheap hobby, and i have several friends that are getting interested in it at the same time. I'm going to do what was suggested and make as many bows as i can.
Cheap? >:D Just wait!
-
the bonus is that i'm already a wood worker.. i have all the tools that i could possibly need. only thing i had to buy was a drawknife. i'm not using any power tools on this at all.. at least not yet. i live in the middle of the woods. tons of many different species of woods. and lots! of dogwood.
-
center shot is going to depend on the wood choice. i really like the look of a shelf on bows.
At the risk of pointing our something you already know . . . center-shot is a type of bow shelf. In other words ya can have a wood shelf without it being a center-shot shelf. If, for example, the handle was 1" wide then center-shot shelf would be 1/2" (or tad more) deep. But you could also cut shelf, for example, just 1/4" (or even less) deep . . . that would still serve function of aesthetic appearance, supporting/locating arrow and leave much more wood in handle to absorb stresses.
Good luck on your bow-making adventures!
-
Soon enough you will realize that tillering is the best part of bow building
-
I once made a selfbow, well actually my friend made it...I just supervised, for a friend with a 34" draw. We used osage and if I remember, we made it 71" ntn (or so).
Yes, you should get a book. I recommend Comstock's The Bent Stick. It is an excellent book.
Go with your dogwood or maple with the dimensions suggested above and then later you can go shorter with osage although I hear dogwood is pretty tough but I never used it.
My site has info.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
Jawge
-
the bonus is that i'm already a wood worker.. i have all the tools that i could possibly need. only thing i had to buy was a drawknife. i'm not using any power tools on this at all.. at least not yet. i live in the middle of the woods. tons of many different species of woods. and lots! of dogwood.
Then get cutting! Dogwood is great stuff, as is hickory, mulberry, elm, and if your in the Midwest OSAGE. There are so many great woods but these are some really good ones that may be in your area. Hickory is very forgiving of tillering flaws so try to get some of that, it's also an awesome bowwood.
-
my boss has his own forge. i just happened to mention needing some good bow wood, he said he has tons of hickory laying around. he's bringing me some tomorrow. i'll snap some pics and show you guys and see what you think :D
-
Sounds like a plan! Just be sure to pick boards, or are they staves? With vertical grain and minimal knots, knots and run outs on boards are bad, in staves, not as much but try to avoid staves with large knots or snakey grain on your first few.
-
I make an offset handle on my bows and on a hard maple pyramid bow where the limbs are almost 2" wide at the fades, the arrow pass is just about center shot. I know you don't need center shot or even close to it if you match the arrow's spine to the bow, but I just like doing it this way. I agree 100% with bubby on hard maple boards making for good bows. I like hickory boards, too, especially in the winter when the RH is low.
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/Wooden%20bows/offsethandle1_zpskednsrz5.png)
-
i want to thank everyone for knocking center shot.. lol.. I've successfully made my first b-50 dacron String. Even if it was for a 27 inch Flatbow. My daughter loves it. I took a red oak board last week and started making it.. today i got some string material and made a continuous loop string to put on it. i put a 25 inch string. i rigged up some arrows out of dow rods, Don't laugh. i was anxious to see what it would do.. and that little sucker sails! some arrows... so, back to the center shot debate. I'm now kinda loving that it's not. It took a few shots, but i literally, destroyed my dogs food bag.. lol.. about 15 yards away, this little sucker is fast! it's not pretty.. but it works.
also, i attached some pictures of the dogwood stave i have.. it's 55 inches long, i had to cut off 4inches, had a terrible knot at the end.
another also, i went to Barefoot archery, and shot a few arrows with a take down bow, 28 inch draw and was pretty comfortable with it.
again, thanks everyone who's commented. i had to go and put my hands on one.
-
thats a nice little bow there. made one very similar for my grandson. he can zing a arrow clear across the yard with it. he likes to shoot a arrow from the wrong side of the bow . at first i tried to correct him. but then as i watched him, he hit a cardboard box a number of times doing it his way. figured if Ishy could do it, why not my grandson :). Tony
-
Sounds like some nice shooting. Question : you sure that is Dogwood in the picture, don't look like any I have or have seen? Sometimes pictures can be deceiving. :)
Pappy
-
thats a nice little bow there. made one very similar for my grandson. he can zing a arrow clear across the yard with it. he likes to shoot a arrow from the wrong side of the bow . at first i tried to correct him. but then as i watched him, he hit a cardboard box a number of times doing it his way. figured if Ishy could do it, why not my grandson :). Tony
Maybe he needs a thumbring, ;)
-
i went outside this morning and zipped an arrow about 40 yards with that little sucker... wasn't completely straight.. but for a 5 year old, this is plenty. she named it eye sore. /facepalm
-
ok James, ,you have alot of great advice, I dont want to confuse the issue, but I will put my 2 cents in,, I too like to shoot a short bow, it is easier in tight spots and tree stand hunting,,,
You say your draw is 30 ish,, ok great,,,,
you can learn to shoot a shorter draw if you like,,( to get a shorter bow)
I shoot several bows and can shoot different draws for each bow with a little practice,, anything from 20 to 30 inches draw,
25 inches is about perfect for me,, I am 6 foot and shoot facing the target a bit,,
if you want a 50 inch bow,, great ,, make one and learn to shoot it
you will have a floating anchor ,, but you can be accurate at hunting range,,, :) there is more than one way to shoot a bow,,
-
yes, there is great advice here. and i've listen to it. I'm making a 65 inch bow right now. Hickory, my boss gave me 2 inch by 6 inch boards.. wasn't what i was expecting. but i'll work with it and get some practice in. as for needing a short bow. right now. i don't even care what length it is. i went and shot a few recurves at a arch store. i was comfortable with a 28 inch draw. i could prob even lose a little and be good. in time, i'll be making good bow's. i already have people wanting me to make them one. I do custom cabinetry for a living. wood is my life. and they all know it.
on to answer the question about the dogwood stave i have. from the leaves, bark, that i collected before chopping it down. i've compared them online, and with an app on my phone and so far from what i've come up with. it's dogwood. Flowering Dogwood, cornus florida. to be exact. not the hardest of dogwoods, but it'll give me something else to work on, practice practice practice.
-
I don't know if it grows in your area, but perhaps it is Serviceberry?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amelanchier (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amelanchier)
-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cornus_florida
this is what i had. looks just like the one i stole the limb from.
-
Guys, he knows. Please read all the posts. It gets to a point that all you are doing is confusing people. Too many chefs make bad soup.
-
I'm with bradsmith2010
and @ James Rodney
Out of your stave you can make a bow with a draw length of 23 -25"
Here a pic that explain more than thousand words:
-
the search function works fine if you know how to use it. Want to search bow related things, be in the bow section when you search them. Knapping, in the knapping area.
I have a hard time with the search function also, mainly because it send to pull primarily old topics with the pictures removed :-\
-
the search function works fine if you know how to use it. Want to search bow related things, be in the bow section when you search them. Knapping, in the knapping area.
I have a hard time with the search function also, mainly because it send to pull primarily old topics with the pictures removed :-\
That is something the site does to conserve space. One more reason to post your photos through another storage site.