Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Wobgnol on November 19, 2015, 01:40:29 pm
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So I am working on my 1st bow and I picked a nice 1x3 with straight grain and quarter sawn. but here in lies my problem. while shaping the bow with my drawknife the wood seems to be splintering out and the splinters are leaving gouges beneath the pulls of my draw knife as they come out. any tips?
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I never use a draw knife on a board bow I'll reduce what i can with a bandsaw or tablesaw and then use a farriers rasp to shape it up
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I dont wish to use any power tools but I will definetly put the draw knife up thank you.
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I have the same problem on my first board bow. Switch directions and its usually better, just due to the way the grain runs out. I'd did what bubby said though and switched to a stanely sure-form, like a Sam Harper tutorial from poorfolksbows.
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If you don't have a farrier's rasp, a Stanley Surform is very handy for removing large amounts of wood fairly quickly.
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Thanks guys, just busted out the sureform. :) will post updates. any extra tips for thing greenhorn is more than welcome.
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You can also use a hatchet to remove the heavy wood but need to be carefull
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Bench planes are made for this, much faster than a Surform and leaves a smoother surface.
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I do what Rob does. Jawge
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I dont have a band saw but the table setup will get ya down to a workable thickness. Then I use the belt sander, carefully and measure with calipers as I go and do my side tapering with a good sharp hand plane. And Bob's your Uncle. :)
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Make the back as smooth as glass and round off any square edges before flexing also make sure to leave enough wood so it does not flex in the fade area if it is to be a rigid handle bow.good luck!
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I never had any luck with a surform, as far as I'm concerned they aren't worth using
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I Actually broke a sure form trying to make a bow. The darn "blade" snapped right off the frame and broke those sorry little clips.
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After ya shape the front view profile. Look at resultant profile very carefully from different angles to be certain there's no deviation from a smooth profile. If you're like me, you'll see humps and dips. Smooth them out to help avoid stress concentrations.
Also, if it's a rigid-handle design, your fades need to be extended into the thickness of limbs. Otherwise there's good chance of your riser block popping off.
Good luck!
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A farriers rasp is worth it's weight in gold to a bowyer. I got one a while back and can't believe I actually survived without one this long.
It wasn't that expensive. Man that thing can hog off wood. It was a little sharp in the handle but some sanding fixed that .... And wearing gloves .... You can really put some force into one of them, a lot more than your hands are gonna take without protection.
Cheers.
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A farriers rasp is worth it's weight in gold to a bowyer. I got one a while back and can't believe I actually survived without one this long.
It wasn't that expensive. Man that thing can hog off wood. It was a little sharp in the handle but some sanding fixed that .... And wearing gloves .... You can really put some force into one of them, a lot more than your hands are gonna take without protection.
Cheers.
+1
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I use s sharp spokshave a bench plane to rough out the profile, and from there I use my heavy scraper for tillering.
LittleBen gave me a strong will to buy a farrier's rasp... Is it used just for roughing up the profile or can you tiller the bow with it (takes off too much wood?)?
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I just use it to rough in the bow and take off heavy wood, all my tillering is with a scraper