Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: freke on June 11, 2016, 05:27:46 pm
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Hi
I need new arrows, My plane was to buy a set of arrows of a calculated "right" dimension, and additional a few arrows segmented up and down as spine reference arrows.
Current bow #45@28" and I draw 28" but arrow length is 29-30", arrows are not in center with the strike offsetted just above 0.5" - considering cedar 5/16" shafts with 100gr heads, and B55 string.
-My understanding is an arrow spine should be bow weight +/-#5 for each inch from 28" and if bow has non centric strike than it should be -#5(roughly) so in my case #45+7,5 -5=47,5 -> #45-50 .
Please, have I understand right, and could cedar 5/16" #45-50 be right choice?
Thanks
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Spined arrows of 40#-45# spine cut to 30" should fly fine from your bow, either 5/16" or 11/32" shafts. The 2" over 28" will reduce the effective spine by 10#. This is with a 125gr point.
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Spined arrows of 40#-45# spine cut to 30" should fly fine from your bow, either 5/16" or 11/32" shafts. The 2" over 28" will reduce the effective spine by 10#. This is with a 125gr point.
Thanks PatB, I will chose 40-45# 5/16", my dealer sells 11/32" first from size 45-50# so I maynot have much choice.
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If you will be using these arrows for hunting the 11/32" will have more physical weight. For target arrows the 5/16" might be better but either should work.
I would also leave the arrows longer, maybe full length until you are sure they will fly well from your bow. You can always shorten them a half inch at a time until you get them zeroed in.
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It will be only for target shooting, here is bow hunting totally prohibited >:(
- I will keep the length and tune them in with the bow, thanks for the advice
Another question, what fletching is best compromise considering using a jig - left straight or helical ?
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My fletch jig is straight and I offset it at a slight angle, left or right depending feather. Even straight fletch will spin the arrow although less than helical.
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another question,
regarding the Cedar shaft finish,
I have heard some use waterbased floorvarnish mixed with water with good results - around here they sell only floorvarnish in big bootless and expensive - what about other like water based furniture varnish or similar ?
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I would try just about anything that will keep the moisture out a bit. I use the floor finish but only because I had some. Yes, it is expensive. Try a spray can of something. If you're like me you will probably loose it or break it before the finish gives up :D :D
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I would try just about anything that will keep the moisture out a bit. I use the floor finish but only because I had some. Yes, it is expensive. Try a spray can of something. If you're like me you will probably loose it or break it before the finish gives up :D :D
Your are right about "loose or break" em:) , I have some furniture varnish home that I will test on some other shafts.
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When I made cedar arrows I used cheap water based poly. I watered it down so it flowed well, dipped the shafts and hung to dry. Once dry I buffed with 0000 steel wool and gave another dip. Made a good, durable finish.
I think the water based poly dries harder than oil based.
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When I made cedar arrows I used cheap water based poly. I watered it down so it flowed well, dipped the shafts and hung to dry. Once dry I buffed with 0000 steel wool and gave another dip. Made a good, durable finish.
I think the water based poly dries harder than oil based.
Yeah I want to dip the shaft in a thin liquid as you discribe, maybe is water based poly I heard about I will look for some that are water based and possible to diluate with more water
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I never measured the ratio of water to poly. I just added water until it was the consistency I wanted. Be sure to stir it well after adding the water but also let it rest maybe a day so all the bubbles disappear Those small bubbles can surely screw up the finish. :o
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As I said ealier I use a water based poly. A while back our range made up some targets out of layers of donacona(sp?). When I shot into it I think the heat of the arrow going though it softened my finish and it acted like glue. It took two of us to pull the arrow out and it had a nice even coat of donacona stuck to it. It looked like moleskin and it took a while to scrape it off. Anyone else seen this?
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As I said ealier I use a water based poly. A while back our range made up some targets out of layers of donacona(sp?). When I shot into it I think the heat of the arrow going though it softened my finish and it acted like glue. It took two of us to pull the arrow out and it had a nice even coat of donacona stuck to it. It looked like moleskin and it took a while to scrape it off. Anyone else seen this?
I have heard about similar with tretex, althrough not sure about what varnish used. Did you solve it by changing to anther finish, and did you try same arrows in normal foam butt?
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I just don't use that target. The mosquitoes are too bad out there anyway ;D ;D. The other targets and my home target are made of, well, tangled strips of felt-like material. Commercial stuff. No problem with them.
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You can wax the shafts with paste wax as needed to help with the friction.
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I had Armour All on them. Does that count?
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Yes it does.