Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: SLIMBOB on June 25, 2016, 08:25:01 pm
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The subtitle to this should be "Or whatever happens happens". I did one of these a few years ago and it was a blast for me and I think some others found it interesting, so, here we go. I want to preface this post with a few words about an observation of mine. I have been away from this site for about a year. Few nagging health issues, nothing life threatening but enough to suck the sap out of me for a bit. I've been back around for a few weeks, and the mood around this place is noticeably....not at it's peak. I have mentioned this observation to a few others in some pm's back and forth. I for one won't, can't, accept that as the new "look". I am not singling anyone out or making a statement as to whether folks might not have a legitimate beef. I am simply saying that I want to go outside and play. Have fun. So, if your interested come on along. For you newbies, you might learn a little sumpn, sumpn along the way. No new ground to uncover here but I will cover the basics with lots of pics as I go. All questions are welcomed and any thoughts or critiques are taken in the spirit friendship. And...we're off!
In a previous post I mentioned some details about this stave. Very tough to get a good ring from end to end. The rings just below the sap wood were paper thin, and in some areas the early wood seemed to just vanish altogether. This is the first bodark stave I have worked on in some time and I am rusty, but I spent maybe 6 hours chasing a good ring on this bad boy. I finally went down to a good thick ring half way through the depth of this stave and was able to establish a decent growth ring, end to end. The stave is 58 inches long, maybe a skosh over. Not a bad piece of sage at all. Pretty red streaks throughout the length of it, but the deeper I got the less red there was. It's just over 2 inches wide. As mentioned, my working plan is to do a static recurve although this piece is less than ideally suited for that design. The knots are an issue and as PEARL said the other day, alignment is the almighty killer on these statics. I think the alignment will be ok, but the knots are there and who knows how they will hold up.
I have the bow drawn out. 58 inches tip to tip. I have a 4 inch handle and the fades are 2 inches each. I have the width at the fades drawn out as 1 3/4 inches for the next 15 inches. A slight taper to 1 1/2 inches at that point. I have the tips roughed in at 3/4 of an inch wide but they will come way down from there. I am keeping it wide to keep the weight up and hopefully keep it together. I can narrow it from there if I need to or see that I can. We shall see.
Started raining so I'm gonna break out the belt sander manana.
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That is a very nice looking stave Slim. Hope it makes a killer bow.
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Thanks JonW. Good to see your still kickin it!
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Very nice! Just started my interest in working with character staves since I've always found that they make beautiful and unique bows.
Looking forward to see how this comes out!
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Nothing like a nice recurve :)
I've found that if you leave the handle full width until it's braced you can eliminate alignment issues by simply shaping the handle to the string. Well as long as you don't have a banana!
Interested to see what you do with this one and somebody else methods.
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With me getting the limbs to be on the same plane as the back of handle helps greatly with tip alignment too.Taking propellers out of both limbs so to speak.After top view layout is cut out I reduce thickness down enough to take all propellers out of limbs with dry heat before setting recurves into tips.It may not most times seem like an issue in the beginning but the more the tips are set back the discreppency shows up.Just my two cents worth.It works for me.That's why of course a special piece of wood is required for these statics to reduce the work and issues,but I still think yours is plenty good to work.
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Hey Mike. I would normally do that. Can't here as the width and depth right thru that area sketchy, so I will keep it centered on the stave as a result. I think the alignment will be ok. Not perfect and I will have to tweak it some. Hey Ed. A liitle prop twist and I think fixing that will be the first thing I address. See what it leaves me with. I will use dry heat and try and get a flat plane along both limbs once it's bending a tad at floor tiller. I rarely ever use steam but that is what I am thinking on the recurve tips. I have them marked at 3 1/2 inches. I will start reducing everything here in a bit. Thanks for the input guys.
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Should be good. Re curves are my favourite bow to build. Alignment issues are pretty easily corrected with the right set up
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Thanks goat. I don't have caul for this and I don't think I will make one, but I am gonna take a look at what I have alignment wise and figure it out. I am not a wood worker. Heck, I am not even a decent carpenter, but I figured out how to get wood to bend without breaking (mostly :) ) and I can usually figure something out and make it work and that's what I will do here. Thanks for looking in and I look forward to any input you may have.
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Alright, got a little time in on it this morning. I drew my centerline following the grain and shaped the sides off of that. One half of the bow was laid out with a straight edge, the other half I had to chase around all the knots and bends so it was totally free hand. The handle area looks weird, but I believe it will look very cool once it is done. I took the belt sander and went to work. I stayed outside of my lines just to give me a little wiggle room on width. It's a bow blank now. Lots of meat still needs to come off the belly but I will get it bending in the next session. In the pic you can see the string track. One limb is just dead nut perfect, the other not so much. I think I will flatten out the prop twist and and kinks and then re-address the alignment once I have it bending good at floor tiller. Any advice from you static guys is appreciated.
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If your left handed ....you could have a center shot bow pretty easy....
DBar
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Good to see ya back in the shop Slim. Interesting and attractive piece of osage there, seeing the color and grain on it in the pics I gotta think that one will come alive once a finish goes down. Has to become a bow first though and it seems you have a pretty solid plan on how to proceed. I'm looking forward to following along and watching how you get this one done.
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DBar...I am a lefty...who does most everything right handed, including any kind of shooting. But I saw the same thing early on. We'll see how it tracks at the handle once it is a little farther along.
Greg...Thanks man. I gotta say it feels good to be at it again. Really pretty piece but just squirrelly. Not complaining as I am drawn to these pieces. I know lots of other folks are as well. Look at Bryce's Yew bow as evidence for that. The first 6 or 8 bows I made were from straight staves. That was what I was told to look for. Clean, straight, laid out completely with a straight edge. This one will be a bit of a challenge.
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Layout looks good. Just remember string tracking may change when you recurve and get it braced. I still think it will work.
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The first 6 or 8 bows I made were from straight staves. That was what I was told to look for. Clean, straight, laid out completely with a straight edge. This one will be a bit of a challenge.
I'm sure it will be a shooter........ ;)
DBar
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Yeah, I'm just trying to figure out which move I make next. I may tweak the alignment by kicking the bent part of the limb in just a skosh. That would keep me pretty lined up end to end. But I might recurve first before I mess with the alignment. I have wood to take off and time to contemplate it though. Thanks guys.
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Get it bending about 20" before you recurve it and you can get most of the alignment taken care of before you recurve
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Yep that's right bub..........but I always have to do some tweeking after recurving, no mater how careful I am in the bending process..
DBar
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That's right Bill but it cuts it way down
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That's right Bill but it cuts it way down
Yep....your right. Keeping it aligned as you go is the best....Thanks Bub!
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Yeah I have a lot of wood to take off first, and I will get it bending pretty good before I recurve the tips. My question is should I straighten that one limb tip by pushing it in some. If I bend it there the rest of the alignment stays pretty good I think. I think I will deflex it some in the handle Bubby. I think it will help lessen the strain some and it may need it. R/D tiller is not a strength for me so I may call on you for some wisdom.
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Being a static it wont have the typical D/R tiller. If you wait till almost the end to recurve it should be a straight forward tiller. Even if you deflex the handle some. The deflexed handle just gets you ahead of the game in tillering so to speak. Clear as mud?
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Looking pretty good! Jawge
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Thanks JonW. I did one bow with a slight R/D shape to it years ago. The stave was naturally deflexed and I just worked with what I had. Not enough deflex to really matter but it finished up well. I shy away from offering much tiller advice on R/D bows as it is a design I just haven't spent much time on. Anxious to give it a go on this one. Clear as mud . Deflex the handle a bit and then just tiller as per usual is what you are saying, then add the recurves later. Bubby said about 20 inches. At this point that's the plan.
Hey Jawge.
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MMM....those growth rings look terrible. Better send it to be so I can burn it for ya. ;)
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R/d recurves have been the best performers I've ever made :) I'd recommend you give it a go. The hard part I found was getting the reflex in the outers to blend perfectly into the recurves but they are worth the tweaking.....FAST bows and the r/d profile pretty much eliminates any shock when it's right.
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Hey bowmo. Nice try! Glad you checked in.
Mike...I've wanted to do reflex deflex for some time. I have shot lot's of them and I really like them, just a bit outside of my comfort zone to build one. I'm pretty sure I can figure it out, especially with all of the expertise available. I've looked at lots of them over the last few days. Some are a straight deflexed limb right up to the 90 degree hooks, others are recurved midlimb with a more open angle on the static tips. I like the looks better on the latter, but I need some opinions from those that have made both. Simon just posted 3 bows the other day, one of which was a real knock out reflex deflex. I don't have to decide just yet as I have lots of weight to shed first. Thanks for the input.
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I started this post nearly 3 years ago. I was away for a while before due to some health issues that finally cleared up...Then I wrecked my sons dirt bike showing off. Tore a hernia and aggravated an old back injury. I was a mess for a good while. But....I'm back, feelin' good and working on bows again. So, there we go. Anyway, I have been wanting to get some time in on this bow, so I am bringing this back from the dead. No new ground to cover on this build. Should be pretty straight forward, but the stave has some character and alignment issues to deal with. I took today and worked the belly down with a draw knife and my belt sander. Got it bending 3, 4 inches of tip travel at floor tiller. I will straighten the little bit of prop twist in it on the next session and get it on the tiller stick. Should get a string on it as well, low brace.
I'm thinking I will deflex the handle as one limb is naturally deflexed, then add the reflex to the tips. Working plan...Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
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Floor tiller stage.
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Glad you are ok again and real nice to see you pick up where you left! Lovely stave too! I would deflex it to match, makes for a little more forgiving shooter at that length ;D
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Hey Leon. Thanks for checking in! FYI, deflex may be out. There is a tiny drying check in the handle and fade, belly side, on the reflexed limb. I attempted to bend the deflex in yesterday and that tiny split tends to open up as I bend it. I fear it will run out into the limb if I go much farther. I stopped, super glued it and clamped it shut just for reassurance. I think I will leave it reflexed and make the deflexed limb match. Any suggestions welcomed, but that's the plan as of today. Really pretty piece of Sage. Has that red color to some of the grain.
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Maybe make a rawhide bandaid. it will probably keep it together enough for you to reflex it.
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A patch wouldn’t do anything. It’s just a cosmetic issue as it is, but if it runs out into the limb it will tend to open up as it’s compressed when bending. I’d rather not let that happen, and heating alone will cause it to open up. Deflexing will likely make it worse. It’s no problem as it is. After glueing it you can’t even see it. Might just leave it and match the other limb to it.
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Yep, I would skip the deflex also if I ran into that issue. Reflex it is! Might even become a rocket launcher after that (SH)
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Thanks Leon. At 58 inches long I will have to be cautious with the reflex. I have the recurved tips measured at 3 1/2 inches, so shortish. I’m gonna get the limbs on the same track, get the tiller even, get a string on it and see what I have.
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Alright...I reflexed the deflexed limb so that they match one another. That will make it easier to tiller evenly. I will take some of the reflex out when I bend the tips later. On to the tillering stick for 20 inches or so.
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Looking good! (-P
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you did well, Bob. That long lasting project seems to come to a good end 8) 8) 8)
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Thanks Leon. That one you posted is a knockout btw.
Thanks Simon. Still a ways to go but I’m liking the looks of it.
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Got some time in on it this afternoon for a few hours. I heat straightened the crook in the end first, and then worked on the floor tiller. It's bending pretty well right now. I put temporary string nocks on it. since I am gonna bend the tips I will leave them wide and I dont want to file temporary nocks in the side, so I wrapped the end with some twine and soaked it in super glue. That's enough to keep the string on it while I tiller. I then put it on the tiller stickand pulled it with the long string to the first notch. Looks decent. It appears to have a good deal of prop twist, and it has some, but the knots close to the handle cause the wood to run uphill a good bit.
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For you newer guys that struggle a bit with the tiller....I take a straight edge about 4 inches long and run it along the belly from handle to near the tip. I mark the belly at the flat spots where no daylight is showing. I also mark the spots that do show daylight with an "X" indicating not to scrape here. I do this on both limbs because I want to work at keeping them even in draw weight. If they are not that is the first thing I will work on.
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Then I mark the belly with a pencil every where it needs scraping. I scrape those areas only until the pencil marks are gone. That will prevent you from over correcting an area. Do this on both limbs. Then put it back on the tiller stick and check it again. Look at from a distance to get a feel for the balance between the limbs. Then run your straight edge again along both limbs making your marks where it needs to bend more. Notice that the first picture shows the bow drawn to only the first notch. The second pic it is pulled to the third notch. What you didn't see was the part in between the 2 where I pulled it to the second notch and checked it before I went to the third notch. Keep the limbs balanced with one another and take wood off where the straight edge says it's a bit flat. Pretty simple. Normally I would get a string on it now and work on the brace profile, but I wont do that here yet because of the nocks. I want to get it bending a bit more and then bend the tips. Doing it this way I can narrow the tips on one side if needed to get the alignment right...On the one pick you can see that I have marked nearly the entire length of the limb. That's what you want. No weak spots. More next time.
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Looking good Bob, like that character...
Don
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Thanks Don. Glad you checked in. Got about an hour on it yesterday evening and got it to the 4th notch. Bending nicely. A little troubled with the twist in it but nothing to bad.
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Been storming here for ever, every day it seems for months, but I got a little time in on this last night and this morning. I bent the recurves in and it was murder. One tip is bent off sideways so I had to straighten it. As I began to recurve the tip it began to split from all the torque I guess. I was still thick so I was able to sand them out, but I may still put underlays on it if it needs it. Filed in my knocks so I am ready to brace. My set up isn't fancy at all but it works. Little strips off old belt sander bits to keep the clamps from sliding. Honey do's for a bit so maybe more later today.
Nearly 6 inches of reflex...That's a bit much.
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6" isn't too much.
Looks good.
DBar
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Good tip on the sanding belts with the clamps. I fight that constantly.
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(-P
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Hey DBar. Glad you checked in. this thing is only 58 inches long so 6 inches is gonna make it scream for relief. When I temper it I will take a bit out I think.
Thanks Steve and I had the same issue. This will stop them from slipping. Double it over btw.
Thanks kbear.
Still cant muscle a string on this bad boy, but I'm close. Oh so close.
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Bob,
Is this going to be sinew backed or naked!? Looks like a screamer already...
Don
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I have enough sinew busted up to do a bow, but not planning on using it on this one. If I can keep it together I think it will be a screamer. This stave was not ideally suited for a recurve. Lots of character and knots on it. But if i can keep it from losing its chili, it should be sweet. This stave is rock hard but it’s bending pretty well. Thanks Don.
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Mothers Day duties early today, but got some time in on it after lunch. Very slow going for the most part. I wanted the tiller close to perfect before I braced it, and several hours were spent fighting that. Got it really close to perfect, or as close I could tell at such a short draw. Then wrestled this snake with several failed attempts at stringing it. Finally got her strung. Low brace of about 4 inches I recon, and I think it looks pretty good. Still a lot of scraping to do but I like to tiller with it strung. Alignment is an almighty mess, so I will deal with that next.
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Brace looks balanced...Nice work Bob
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Nice Bob. Those are some mean hooks.
Would like to follow the reflex on this one. Did you lose much getting it to brace?
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Thanks Don. Pretty close I think.
Ben. It measured 5 5/8” when I took it off the form. I did not measure it last night after bracing it. Should have, but took the family to dinner and I was determined to get a string on it before I quit so in a bit of a rush. Then Game of Thrones (can’t miss that). Eyeballing it, little difference if any. I will measure it later this evening and post it for you. I mentioned that I wanted it really titghtly tillered before I strung it. Several hours spent dialing it in yesterday on the long string. What you see in the pic is after just a few scrapes on one limb once strung. No visible weak spots so I don’t expect much set at this point. Still heavy so muscle to shed yet. I will post the measurement later today.
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Nice Bob. Those are some mean hooks.
Would like to follow the reflex on this one. Did you lose much getting it to brace?
That is why I said 6" wasn't too much. Bow being that short I would expect to loose 2" of reflex and create some string follow in the working limb especially without sinew.
To help get it strung, put the bow between two chairs with just the tips on the chair an push down on the handle.
Kinda opposite of a stringer. Found out this works great for me after about 15 statics...... :-[
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Good tip. I will try that. It was comical yesterday. At one point it was wrapped around my leg like an Anaconda🤣. Sharper hooks on this one than any others I have made, so figuring it out as I go. Man, if I can keep it to 2 inches of set I will consider that a win. Thanks DBar.
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To help get it strung, put the bow between two chairs with just the tips on the chair an push down on the handle.
Kinda opposite of a stringer. Found out this works great for me after about 15 statics...... :-[
Don't use your best dining room chairs, the tips will leave marks :-[ :-[ :-[
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Good point DC
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In my home, leaving those marks will leave a mark.
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Ben...just measured it. It came off the form with 5 5/8 inches of reflex. It now has right at 5 inches, so it's taken 5/8 of an inch since long string tiller and bracing it.
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That's not bad considering where you started.
I brace my bows when they are closer to final weight, so I'm interested to see your method and the results. (-P
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Good plan Ben. The proof is in the pudding. I believe you take less set doing it this way, and I once did them like your doing them. It is harder to do that as the recurves become greater, but as a rule I believe the earlier you get one braced the less set it will take. We'll see!
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Got an hour or so on it tonight and worked on the alignment. The string lay about an inch off center...to the right. The top limb has a "C" shape to it. but it bends to the left, so straightening the "C" would only make it worse. Very puzzled!!?? I ended up clamping it to the table and taking some of the prop twist out and bending it in the handle. That got it much closer. I can straighten the tip now I think and that should do it. Then see if I can sneak up on 26 inches.
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A little work on it tonight. I got the belly toasted and tweaked the alignment. I set the reflex back to 5.5 inches as well just to make sure everything was even. I also got my tip overlays ready to glue on. It's plum sapling which I have used before on some. It looks good, as the Osage darkens the tips turn a pale rose color in contrast.
I'm thinking I will sinew back it. Don mentioned it the other day, and I've been considering it. It would benefit from the backing. Heck it may hold it together. As short as it is and with that reflex, I'm thinking why not. I have nearly enough busted up to do it and I have been wanting to try PatM's method. Gonna sleep on it.
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Got the tips glued on. Also busted up some more sinew, as I have decided to go ahead and back it. I'm going to try Patm's method, so we will see how it goes.
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Bob, nice looking tips man...Enjoying this build...Let me know if you need any extra sinew...
Don
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Thanks for the offer Don. I have a good bit ready to go. Shredded 1 tendon last night and I have 4 or 5 others soaking. First time I have tried soaking and separating versus pounding with a hammer. I will never pound it with a hammer, ever again! Wow this is so much easier and renders more sinew.
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Whats PatMs way?
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I learned to do this based on Laubens instructions. PatM uses a method that delivers a more refined look to the finished product. The claim is, and I tend to believe it, that it is also more functional, so I am going to try it and see for my self. You can do a search on here for the thread where he does his build along on it for a complete explanation.
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I agree with Bob on the refined look and the fact that excess glue is squeezed out reducing the weight of the backing...Here are 2 examples...First picture is where I followed Pat's instructions and second picture is my sinew work after just laying it down unwrapped without sheet strips...Both ways will work but I think Pat's method removes unwanted weight... Bob, hope you don't mind me posting these pics on your thread...
Don
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Nah, I don’t mind at all. This is very much a stream of consciousness post to begin with. Secondly, that is a pretty good set of pics that shows the difference in appearance between the 2. Thirdly, I’ve stepped on a lot of others posts myself but always with the interest of adding something to the conversation. Or just for yuks 😎
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Just checking in (-P
Bjrogg
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Hey Bjrogg.
OK, I worked on the brace tiller just a bit this morning after tempering it a few days ago. I tweaked the alignment and it's as good as it's ever gonna be I think. I got the back sized, shredded 3 more tendons all in under 3 Blue Moons. If all goes well I'm gonna apply the sinew tomorrow.
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Nice looking sinew Bob, I can tell that was wet when you separated it...That makes the strongest strings that way...I think pounding weakens the fibers, breaking them down, not allowing the full potential/shrinkage, I don't like pounding...Glad you got her all lined up buddy...Looking good! Nice pictures
Don
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Thanks Don.
Well, I was gonna start the sinew tomorrow, but I went ahead and started this evening. Got my courses laid down, and then wrapped it. Gonna pick it up in the morning.
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The first unwrapping....it was midnight last night once I got it wrapped and heated up, so I let it set overnight and unwrapped this morning. Wrapping came off no problem....Not nearly as pretty as Pat's, but I can see progress. Got it rewrapped and heated back up. It's cooling now.
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Bob, for your next layer of sinew soak it as usual and then take a razor blade and scrape it both sides on a cutting board before you lay it down. It comes out flat, white, and removes all of the little bits of junk. It will make a nice smooth surface and your overlaps will mate beautifully.
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Thanks for the tip. I will certainly try that on the next one. as this one has all that's going on it...I think.
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You better be combing that sinew out on the bow or so help me bob!
;D
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Bryce. I watched your sinew along sometime back and it was good. I’m trying Pats method, so no combing. This is my first solo sinew job. Did a few assists some years back. We shall see what happens. It’s all wrapped up in Vet Wrap right now.
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It’s coming along nice. I really liking the look.
You didn’t have issues getting the cloth off? It sticks every time for me so I switched back to ace bandages. Maybe I’m not waiting long enough to remove the wrapping.
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Thanks Eric. Mine came right off. No problem.
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Bryce. I watched your sinew along sometime back and it was good. I’m trying Pats method, so no combing. This is my first solo sinew job. Did a few assists some years back. We shall see what happens. It’s all wrapped up in Vet Wrap right now.
Oh I don’t do it like that all the time, was just a ‘basics’ for layin sinew. But you can still comb it out when you do it that way. Trust me it makes a difference.
I soak my sinews in warm glue for a few minutes comb it down. Once it’s tacky I wrap it both ways so it’s even squeezing out as much moisture as necessary without starving it of the proper amount of glue.
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Thanks for the help Bryce.
Quick update...had to do major surgery on the sinew job. Sinew started lifting in several spots. Not completely sure why. Probably something I did, but I have reglued it and it appears to be holding. I will check it in a few days and make an assessment then.
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Gotta love problem solving! Looking forward to the final
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Checked the sinew “reglue” this morning. Looks like it is solid as a rock now. I have decided to add one more course down the middle and crown it a bit more. I have heated in 5 1/2 inches of reflex and pulled in another 1/2 inch. The string is getting a bit slack so it’s pulling in more as it dries. It’s not pretty but I’m liking the way it’s looking now. I will get a picture up this weekend.
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OK ,got the final course of sinew down the middle last night. It's setting at 6 1/2 inches of reflex,so 1 inch is pulled in. I have it setting in the dappled shade with a breeze blowing on it. Everything looks solid now.
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(-P
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That looks good Bob, glad it's all holding now...Here in S.C. I keep mine inside in the Summer in the AC to dry...The humidity which is good thing for first stage of sinewing is off the chain here, slows the gel time...We are Subtropical at times...Looks like that back is well protected Sir...This will be a performer when your done...I like your patient approach...
Don
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Thanks Don. It’s been in the house but I put it out in the breeze for a few hours. I hope the patience pays off. I’m gonna put underlays on the recurved just for insurance. I’ll work on those whilst it dries. I’m likin it. The thing is a mess in a lot of ways but think it will make a shooter.
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Well, my patience gave out tonight. I went ahead and strung it up. I looks to need a little reducing on both limbs in the mid outers, but nothing to drastic. It's heavy and I have some room to play with. It feels really solid. Any thoughts on this from you sinew guys would be appreciated. 6 inches of reflex when I first unstrung it btw.
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Looks pretty good to me I like the profile, I think you are right about the mid outers needing a little work. As far as sinew goes I don't use it. You thinking about maybe adding more sinew is that it.?
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That’s it on this one for sinew. Still some work to do on it, but it’s all the less fun tedious stuff. After I get the tiller right, all the finish work. I don’t dislike that part, I just don’t get the fuzzies like I do on the early stuff.
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Bob,
Totally agree with the mid to outer assessment...6" tells me that the sinew is dry and has done it's job, excellent work Sir...
Don
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work on the mids!
looks nicely, Bob!
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looking good and I love the contraption to put reflex in!
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thanks guys. Gonna work on the mids . Was going to tonight but ran out of time. I pulled the tip overlays off. Found something that wowed me for them. I will get a pic up of them.
This is some Texas Persimmon I have/ I cut into it to make a handle and it had the streak of Ebony in it. I thought it would look great on the tip overlays.
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This is one of the persimmon tips. Pretty cool I think. Did a little tillering on it today. Took it to the tillering tree. 25lbs at 15 inches. Loosened up the mids and now working on the fades, but it's close.
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Nice work Bob, that will look stunning after you polish her all up...Thanks for the update...
Don
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Those tips are a plus
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Like those tips! They got character! Nice job!
Hawkdancer
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Thanks guys. I think the tips will look really good once I have whittled them down and shinnied them up. Hawk dancer, thanks for your service!
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Alright....got some time on it today. Tweaking the tiller, but it's close. The sinew changed it some but not a lot. Worked on the tips some as well. Should finish it up soon. I have some whitetail rawhide headed my way to cover the sinew with.
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Ooooohhh :D
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Like a perfect brace before final tillering, that's looking good Bob...
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great build along.
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Okie Dokie...I put this up and let the sinew dry for several months while I worked on a few other projects. I am not now, nor have I ever been a fan of rawhide backs. I just cant get them to look worth a darn but...with the sinew backing, and this slated to be my hunting bow I decided I would have a go at it. I wanted something woodsy for a camo effect. Cut, glued and died it last weekend. It has not been cleaned prettied up yet, but I am happy with the results. I will tweak one of the recurves, clean it up, put a finish on it and a handle wrap and she's done. Maybe this week.
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Good post. Nice work.
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Thanks slim for this post!
It came out great and I really love the unique looking camo paintjob on the rawhide
B2W
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Really like what you did with the camouflage on the rawhide Bob. Looking forward to seeing more pictures and the fulldraw. Glad you came out to play.
Bjrogg