Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: DC on July 25, 2016, 05:43:32 pm

Title: Just curious
Post by: DC on July 25, 2016, 05:43:32 pm
I'm making some shafts from Beauty Bush (Kolkwitzia amabilis) that I cut some time ago. It's related to Honeysuckle. It seems like good stuff except it has quite a bit of taper. I'm wondering what effect so much taper might have on dynamic spine? I'm thinking the maximum bend is going to be farther back on the arrow. Most of the taper will probably get sanded out but I was just curious.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: Pat B on July 25, 2016, 07:33:14 pm
My 30" sourwood arrows are 3/8" at the point end and 5/16" at the nock. I sometimes have to plane down the butt end to get 3/8".
 That natural taper will reduce the effective spine by up to 10#.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: bow101 on July 29, 2016, 07:33:43 pm
Wood shafts are the way to go, if they are straight from the get go, then they should suffice. 
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: bjrogg on July 29, 2016, 09:26:29 pm
Pat if I understand what you're saying, this would explain why when I bare shaft my tapered red osier shafts they measure about 10 lbs heavier spine then the premium store bought shafts at same length and point wieght. I wonder if the actual spine is also effected by more wieght forward by the tapered shaft. After bare shaft testing my red osier I was afraid I bought to light of spine store bought shafts but I just got done bare shafting them and they shoot perfect even though they where about 8-10 lbs lighter spine then the red osier.
Bjrogg
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: Pat B on July 31, 2016, 10:59:24 am
Bjrogg, I think the natural taper and the weight forward properties work together to reduce the affective spine of these natural arrows. The native US canes(river cane, switch cane and hill cane) are the same with the taper and weight forward.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: BowEd on July 31, 2016, 11:21:09 am
A stiffer shaft is better for impact and penetration while hunting in my opinion too.The arrow goes through the opposite paradox after impact.Less paradox more penetration.Providing the mass weight is there.Hard to beat those dog and sourwood shafts.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: Pat B on July 31, 2016, 11:51:02 am
I usually get 500gr to 600gr with hill cane and 550gr to 700gr from sourwood so physical weight isn't a problem. Even with a light stone point the weight forward aspects of these shafts helps compensate.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: bjrogg on July 31, 2016, 12:38:17 pm
Thanks for posting this DC I was really wondering why my red osiers bare shafted at so high of a spine and when I made them before with fat taper back they shot good at lower spine wieght. It makes sense to me now. Ed that makes sense on the recieving end to shaft would have higher effective spine on penetration.
Bjrogg
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: DC on July 31, 2016, 02:05:30 pm
If you bend a parallel arrow the maximum bend is in the middle. If you bend a tapered arrow the max bend is toward the back(like a fishing rod). I can't help but think that this is the reason that tapered arrows have less dynamic spine. Something to do with when the max bend goes past the bow maybe. Having the bend toward the back may improve the recovery time also. Just guesses. We would need Tuomo's high speed camera skills I guess :D :D :D
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: BowEd on August 01, 2016, 09:23:25 am
I believe your right about bend and recovery.A camera would help if your by yourself but now if a knowledgable bowmen stands behind a person shooting things can be seen too.The tapered shoot shaft is more forgiving going around a handle.Less contact of arrow pass.IMO.Provided form/release/and follow through are correct.
Seems like everyone has got to find their own niche in bow/shaft/and shooting style/grip etc. to please themselves.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: archeryrob on August 04, 2016, 03:50:30 pm
I would imaging you are going to have to reduce those shafts a bit to make spine, correct? All shafts I have ever produced always needed too. So I would imagine you might need to reduce the taper a bit to make spine. On Dynamic spine I would imagine thin edge back would help it clear the bow. I would think it would perform the same, but its just a guess.

I don't know anything about Beauty Bush, but Bush Honeysuckle grows all over my yard and woods. I have not tired using it as it appears light and easy to break with a large pith core even though it does lend it self to being straight and grow damn fast. I've seen some shoot grow 7' to 8' by late summer under a canopy.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: DC on August 04, 2016, 05:49:03 pm
The Beauty Bush stiffens up a lot when it dries. It is floppy when it's green.
Title: Re: Just curious
Post by: Danzn Bar on August 04, 2016, 06:56:47 pm
The Beauty Bush stiffens up a lot when it dries. It is floppy when it's green.

Sounds like someone I know.......::)