Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Mo_coon-catcher on July 27, 2016, 09:33:30 am
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I'm having trouble deciding which material I want to use for some primitive heads for my uncles arrows. I'd prefer to use stone or obsidian, but I havnt learned how to knap yet. So I'm debating between bone and bamboo. These are arrows that are most likely just display arrows, but if I'm going through the work of making them I'd might as well make them functional. The arrows themselves are bamboo shafts with self nocks and full length turkey tail feathers stripped and tied on with a silk thread. I'm leaning towards bamboo but my friend is leaning toward bone. He thinks the bone will look better, I think the bamboo will funtion better. I plan to insert a steel pin behind the head to up te Impact weight. And either one I go with I will temper to help get a sharper edge. I might even make a few extra for myself and see how they perform on a whitetail.
So what are your all's opinions?
Kyle
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Kyle, bone heads look cool on display arrows. IMO
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Depending on how primitive you want to get, sheet steel is a good option. Most surviving arrows in museums have steel heads. Check out the Encyclopedia of Native American Bows and Arrows on Abebooks for ideas.
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I tried one time to temper bone. It made it brittle. I may have over heated it. However, id choose bone ove boo because bone wont split out like boo will. I dont want a fragmenting arrow head in a deer.
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I thought bone would do better, there was some video of a bone head going through a hog
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I suggest you make one of each and see what you like best. But if it was me I'd go with bone.
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have you thought of using water buffalo horn?
sometimes you can find nice slices at the pet supply stores.
it'll take a nice polish too.
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I didn't thnk about the bamboo splintering, but I can see that happening easily when it hits a bone. I hadn't thoght of buffalo horn. Does it get pretty hard? I did find a big piece of bamboo for a few bucks at the hardware store and made a few quick points out of it. Here's one hatred up and ready to test out. I cranked out the points real quick with some no primitive methods. But tell be good for testing. I couldn't get it near as sharp as I expected with 320 grit paper. I might have to change my angles a bit. It balances just forward of the mid point and weighs about 480 gr. I'll see how this one does. Then I ll get se thinner buffalo horn and some attle femur and see how they perform. I'm not sure how I'll test then yet though.
Kyle
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we can't see the photos if you posted any.
i was under the impression that an edge can be more easily created on bamboo with a knife blade vs. sandpaper.
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Sorry, I guess I forgot the pictures. I'll try the knife to make an edge. I've never messed with it so I have no idea what I'm doing.
Kyle
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if you can manage to keep the smooth outer layer of the bamboo integrated into your point design, you could end up with a 'harder' edge.
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I made some from mussel shell that turned out really impressive.
(http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m509/dakota_kid1/100_2734%20Copy_zps0mcckfzd.jpg)
I've also made decent points from ground slate, but I prefer bone to slate.
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I really like those DK.
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Hey Dk how do those mussel point hold up? Or are they just for show? Nice lookin' points either way! Cheers- Brendan
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From what I've seen, it's a good bit harder than bone and they seem to hold an edge better. I can get them sharp enough to cut paper and shave hair. If they get dull, I just sharpen um back up. The next step up from them would be metal.
I haven't actually shot an animal with them, but I have no doubts it would do the job. I've used them when I made some "arrows of light" for the boy scout troops around town. Add some white fletchings to a arrow wood shoot shaft and they definitely look the part.
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Those are some awesome points. It definitely looks like something worth a try. I bet the scouts loved those arrows.
Kyle
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DK Did you shape/sharpen with hand tools? Files etc? Thanks- brendan
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Those first ones I cheated for expediency and used a drum sander. I just gt done roughing out a new batch with my knife and will clean them up with sand paper. This time I left the outer layer on and am going to see how this does. Hopefully they will get sharp enough to cut after I temper them. It they only get reasonably sharp then they will still be good for pas shooting geese this winter.
Kyle
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Here's what I have roughed out so far.
Kyle
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I roughed them out using a 1" belt sander and a coping saw. Next I sanded increasing the grit until I hit 2000. I buffed them with a jewelers wheel and a dremel after that. They were pretty sharp at that point, but I wasn't sure of the angle on the edge, so I just ran them over my sharpening stones like I would any other blade. They didn't need as many passes though because they aren't quite as hard as steel. After that they'd take hair off my arm, so I figured I wasn't gonna get them much sharper than that.
A word to the wise, don't breathe the dust from shells!!! There is a specific allergy that about half of the population has that is caused by inhaling shell dust. Unfortunately I found out I have it the hard way. I was deathly ill for three days, with constant coughing/mucus, fever, chills/shivers, and horrible joint pain. It was worse than any flu I've ever had. I'm really cautious now and won't even work on shell in the house and never w/o a mask on.
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I have no intention of going through that kind of sickness.... wanna make me some shell points? :laugh:
Seriously though, what type shell did you use?
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These were made from a freshwater mussel called a giant floater. (don't google that!!!... without the word mussel)
I gathered a bunch from a semi-local creek after I saw how thick they were. I'd never seen shells that heavy. They were way more substantial than the normal lake mussels I've been finding since childhood. Some were almost a 1/2" thick. I'm saving the larger ones for knife scales, but have made all sorts of stuff from some of the smaller ones. I've made arrow passes, nock overlays, ear rings, arrow heads, pendants and some buttons so far. Some of them have some remarkable color swirled throughout, like the point on the left in my pic. The only draw back is how hard the stuff is. I'm surprised the Native Americans were able to work it at all considering it's a PITA even with a belt sander and rotary tool.
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As far as that illness... it was pretty awful. From what I read it was first discovered in a banjo factory. They use mother of pearl on the fret boards. Half the factory workers were using up sick days like crazy. I guess it didn't take very long to determine the dust was the culprit. I'm glad I was able to figure out the cause or I would have made an unnecessary trip the the ER.
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Awesome thanks Dakota kid! I'm gonna try some she'll points. Cheers- Brendan
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I see you are using silk thread & modern tools, etc so I will ask:
Have you considered using modern metals for arrowheads?
Heavy bandsaw blade is near perfect for trade points, if you can shape it. Large nails hammered flat & sharpened also make dandy broadheads. Some people use spoons hammered flat. Just about any tough thin steel will make a decent trade point head.
Slate floor tiles will also do. Many are 1/4" - 3/8" thick, which are thin enough to file or grind into shape. A 12" square tile will provide material for many many arrowheads. Slate is soft enough to work with hand tools but hard enough to hold up for one time use & takes a fair edge. Comparable to bone or wood. Bamboo can get pretty sharp!
Plate glass would be my easy go-to material if I was to start knapping again. I learned pressure flaking on plate glass so knapping your own heads is not out of the question.