Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Horn Bows => Topic started by: Aaron H on June 07, 2017, 10:58:31 am
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This is something that I came up with after reading Adam's book and lots of research online. I feel like it is a good starting point for anyone who wants to try their hand at a Turkish composite bow. I ran this drawing past a few reputable horn bow builders and they gave me the nod of approval. But, that being said, if you see anything that needs attention, please don't hesitate to speak up, after all, this is all new to me as well. Maybe this will generate some discussion, and hopefully it will help someone with interest.
It is intended to be a 44" Turkish war bow. A 3 piece core with 50-70# draw weight. 4" grip, with 5" v splices into the limbs. The laths will be 24" (20" limbs, with 2" extra on both the tip and Sal areas). This form does not allow the use of a bending strap, but I will be using green sugar maple at around 5/8" thickness, which should not require the bending strap.
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Very nice form there Aaron I have no comments on the design aspect I'm in the same boat as you as far as making one but I was wondering if you got your horn you where looking for ?
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I have started getting everything together, still waiting on my fresh cut sugar maple to arrive, but to answer your question, yes I did end up getting some Asian buffalo horn.
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Ok good I ended up getting a flatten & straitened pair from James & I have several pairs of non processed Asian bufollow horn slats that I need to straiten a bit & bring to thickness when I have time pluss several maple staves but there well seasoned , I'm planing on making a bow similar to Beadmans first before tackling the Turk, Glad to see some interest on this side
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Looks like a very good form to me Aaron.
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Very cool, you should share progress with us. I would love to see more action involving these types of bows.
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Thanks Ed
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The only thing I would change would the kasan eye bend. Make it a larger radius. Tight kasan eye bends are not what you want on your first go!
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Mike what size radius would you suggest?
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5" is too tight?
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Looks familiar!
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Yep, they look pretty close. Looks like the kasan eye bend on yours has a bit larger radius than mine, like Mike is suggesting.
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Or maybe it's just mine has a steeper angle
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That's really cool, thanks for sharing. I wanna see how it works out
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I made my form from one picture of the turk war bow from museum ... I produced the vector image and pdf file from it ... for one half of the bow.
Here is the pdf file ...
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And here is the form of the mongol bow from 13th century (ntn 130cm)...
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Yes.The angles are very important I believe too.In ease of tillering and performance reasons.Steeper angle ie.... harder to tiller/better material used but better for performance.
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And here is the form of the mongol bow from 13th century (ntn 130cm)...
Drop the weird setback grip. Only cheap fiberglass bows have these.
The original bows from Cagaan Chad and Bajan Aguij have slightly less articulated bulbous grips that resemble those of CTs, which is absolutely no surprise. There is little grip reflex though.
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how come it is not one smooth even curve the whole way, if this has been discussed already I would appreciate a link please : )
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how come it is not one smooth even curve the whole way, if this has been discussed already I would appreciate a link please : )
Angular bends are better because the limb weighs less for the same reflex. Plus traditional core/horn joinery can only handle limited reflex in the bending sections.
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I bent some hackberry laths last night. I just love how well hackberry bends with steam. I started to get a little lift on one of the tip bends, but it should clean up just fine.