Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: timmyd on June 14, 2017, 12:34:01 pm
-
hi all.
never messed with black locust before and have a stave ready to start work. I've chased a ring, cut it out and heated some reflex in it. however, I need your opinion...I layed out the back 1.75" to mid limb then tapered to 1/2". but on the belly side, due to natural taper of the split, I only have 1.5" in width. This leaves the back wider than the belly which is discouraged in black locust wood. I didn't know if the fact that I have it kinda wide @ 1.75" would still be ok or would you narrow the back to 1.5" to match the width of the belly so that the back isn't wider? Thanks
-
1 1/2" overall width could be ok depending on draw weight, draw length, bow length, etc.
-
forgot to mention...the bow is 66" n2n and I'm shooting for 50@28
-
With a good heat treating. It will be fine at 1 1/2" wide with the same configuration.just take everything nice and slow and you shouldn't have any problems. If you were going for above 60# then I would make it a slight flex on he handle at that width. But at 50#, I wouldn't worry.
Kyle
-
Definitely doable with those specs, if it's a good piece of locust. Locust quality can vary conSIDerably... so it's hard to say without seeing it.
-
here are some pics
-
and some more
-
Tip toe gingerly through the tillering process and you'll be fine. Black locust appreciates a good belly tempering, too.
-
1 1/2 back and belly and heat treat the snot out of it! Oh and trap the back.
-
well here goes...narrowed it to 1.5", spent a while in the drying box to get the moisture down under 10% and put some reflex in it. hope to start tillering it tomorrow.
-
here she is worked down to 24". lower limb on right in photo. that limb looks off but I'm showing good bend with the tillering gizmo but wanted your thoughts on it. the back of that limb has some character like dips bumps etc so that could be why it's throwing my eyes off. what do you think?
-
Right limb has at least three flat spots. Get it caught up before pulling any further.
-
1.5" can be and should be enough, but when I have less wood to work with, I try to "find" wood I can use in the stave...bendy handle, or smaller handle with more abrupt fades, shorter arrow pass area, and try to relieve stress on the bending-but-stiff-but-narrow areas.
But, let me suggest you slow down on your tillering. Never pull the bow more than the final draw weight during tillering, and get everything as good as your eye can see it before you go on. Get a crayon or pencil and mark all the areas that need to bend more. I have gone so far as to wrap masking tape over areas I knew I shouldn't touch.