Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: DC on August 31, 2017, 02:59:50 pm
-
I'm trying to make matched arrows. I want the spine, weight and FOC to match. Is there a sequence of doing this so I don't keep going round in circles? Every time I correct one thing I seem to mess up something else.
-
What tolerances are you willing to accept? My experience is something has to give a little. I make one arrow the way I want it then I sand down the next constantly measuring spine and weight. I sand the mittle to reduce spine and the ends to reduce weight and maintain spine. Like everything else, go slow and measure often.
What material are you working with?
-
I want to get it as close as I can. I'm just making three. Maybe I should have asked what tolerances are acceptable. I'm using bamboo. I'm finding the a boo shaft that weighs 300 grains can be anywhere from 30-50# spine.
When matching arrows does the length matter? Assuming of course that spine and weight etc. are the same. Put another way, if I have a matched set of arrows, will they all be the same length?
-
Within 20 grains of each other.Within 5# of each other spine wise.With three I'm sure you can get them closer than that.Shooting 20 yards and under you won't see much diff elevation wise at all.I'm always told to put the stiff side of the bamboo shaft against the handle.
Sounds like a nice practice set.
When harvesting dogwoods from the same patch they usually always become the same length with matching spines and weight.When buying bamboo from other regions you don't know about unless assured from the sender I'm not sure they would be the same length.No one can know that except the arrow maker which is you.Generally I would say they would be.
When matching flight on arrows off the same bow length does'nt matter.As long as they hit where your looking with clean flight that's all that matters.
There are a few different types of shaft bamboo out there too.I always liked tonkin bamboo for arrow shafts.
-
I've never had an arrow hit where I'm looking. I look right at the little "X" in the ten ring and I've never hit it. Must be the arrows fault, eh ;D ;D ;D
-
Not even once???....lol.Might be operator error.I've run into that a time or two.
-
I did hit the "X" once but it was on the target beside the one I was aiming at :-[ :-[ :-[.
-
Here's my set. Bamboo garden stakes. 28" long. Tips are modified duplex nails. The spine/weight are 34/346, 36/347 and 34/342. I only made two arrows. I copied the third. I didn't have any contrasting color for the cock fletch so I bleached the rear corner of the cock fletch with beauty salon hair bleach. The one arrow has white fletching wraps because it's the one I copied and I never noticed the different color until I was editing the pictures. They shoot very well but still don't go quite where I'm looking. :D
-
Hey DC.... I really like those points .........just what did you do to those points I can't tell much from the pic's.
As far as hitting where your looking .....I've been making cane/boo arrows for a long time and I still can't get three hitting the same place at the same time....could be the arrow, the bow , the shooter who knows.... :)
DBar
-
Hey DC.... I really like those points .........just what did you do to those points I can't tell much from the pic's.
As far as hitting where your looking .....I've been making cane/boo arrows for a long time and I still can't get three hitting the same place at the same time....could be the arrow, the bow , the shooter who knows.... :)
DBar
I cut the outside head off. I have some 3/8" round aluminum that I rifle drill slightly smaller than the shank of the nail. I cut 1/4" lengths of the aluminum and drive the nail into it. Then I turn them on my lathe. My first batch I put the aluminum on the outside but now I put it on the inside. Top pic is old way. I used old tips on the group of arrows because that's what was on the one I copied.
-
Looks good but I'd put a little more thread wrap around the end of the shaft. Just incase I hit any brick walls...:) :)
DBar
-
I use Kevlar thread and I cut a shallow groove in the shaft for it to sit in. There is more thread than it looks like and it's stronger thread. It's sorta flush with the surface so it pulls out of the target without a lot of fuss or noise.
-
Very nice looking arrows.
-
Not as nice as yours Ed :D
-
Very nice DC, I'd say from those numbers they'd make a good consistent set.
What do your points weight?
-
They are 70 grains. They are making a a bit of noise on release and I thought I remembered hearing that stiff arrows do that. So this morning I upped one to 110 gr but that lowered the spine too much and the arrow flew wonky. Maybe too much of a jump in weight but that's what I had in front of me. It seemed to help the noise but not every shot. I might try something like 90gr.
-
What is draw weight of the bow?
-
37#@ 26". This is my "lighter bow to improve my form bow"
-
Nice arrows DC, I like those points to. I suspected you may have already tried it but shooting one bareshaft really takes the guesswork out of if spine is to heavy or light. Usually I just make fletching my last step and shoot them bareshaft before I fletch.
PS I like the bleach on the cock feathers, I may copy that idea
Bjrogg
-
Regular chlorine bleach won't work. I had to use hair dressers stuff. Do a couple of test pieces first. If you leave it on to long it can ruin the feather. These were done for about 5 min.
-
Thanks DC. I may play with some old arrows to start.
Bjrogg